A208 Clk200 2001 wont crank. Starting intermittent.

[BigRussJepson]

Hi,
This has probs been partly covered but........

So, I have a 2001 clk 200 komp cabrio with 95000 miles on her.

Last week I came to it at 07.00 am (10 degrees c temp) and she wouldnt crank, the previous night it had been running for at least an hour and i drive her at least 400 miles a week, not due a service for 5000 miles.
I have recently had the clock displays repaired, and the day befor the fault she'd been on trolly jacks for two new rear tyres.

Key inserts, turns, fuel pump can be heard, relay under bonet, all lights as expected, but when key gets to position three nothing happens.

I spent the next day:
Checking all fuses inc those in boot / the ones with the relays under the screwed down tray on the engine bay and those in the cab.
Popped out the clocks and wiggled all the ignition wiring.
Replaced the key batteries.
Ragged the auto gear stick up and down all four positions a million times.
Checked the main battery (12.6v) at rest and put leads on it from my van.
Locked and unlocked many times etc.
Oil level.

Nothing changed.
I left it 24 hours and she fired up like It had never happened.

I have since driven it over 300 miles over several days at all times of day and night and ambient temps, starting and stopping dozens of times, no problms at all.
Today I drove it a few miles, stopped to throw 50 liters of petrol in to her and exactly the same issue.
She is now sat at the fuel station and im typing this.
So ideas please, im going to try to get green flag and then AA to pop a machine on.

Oil temp or level sensor?
Gear box inhibitor?
Battery start inhibitor?
The missus is about to drop our first baby, shes pecking my head enough without this.
Luckily I have the AA full breakdown with up £500 inc vat repair cover, they came through when my c250 died so at least I have that peace of mind but I could do with a push in the right direction.
BTW im just off the M58 near Skelmersdale, Lancashire, UK, if anyone is local or can recommend anyone clued up and genuine?

One last thing, randomly this has happened both times after I have filled up the fuel tank.
Thank you in advance.

Russ

 

[Tuercas viejas]

Russ
Just a thought before you start really getting down and dirty with it, (and I am going to presume its an automatic!?) , do check the shift cable at the transmission (auto gearbox) anchor mount.
Held by a delrin plastic clip or U clip on the anchor bracket in some cases) it can fall out and leave the cable hanging. Consequently even with the shift lever in P or N position for a non inhibited start position the actual lever on the box is left in a gear when you pulled up last. Now it won't start because the TCM thinks you are in a gear!
Check that first!
How the weather up in Skem, I used to live in West Lancs many yurs ago!
Hopefully this quick fix will do it for you.
Tuercas Viejas

 

[BigRussJepson]

Thanks,
how do I find that exactly? Also, how could it rectify itself overnight and be fine for over 300 miles. Yes btw, auto four position.

 

[Tuercas viejas]

OK
You are going to have to jack it up on left side or get the car up enough to see under it at the area just aft of the bell housing where the main case of the box is exposed.
There will be a bracket and the cable attached to the main case & it is clearly visible . Then the cable stub end to a lever which is the actual shift mechanism part going into the box.

Now please don't slither under the car without additional support--DO NOT in any circumstances get under the car without stand support OK!
With a light (torch--flashlight) have someone move the shifter with the ignition on from inside the car and see if there is any free or lost movement or in fact something hanging off FIRST.
TV

Views of the transmission for clarity.
https://www.google.com/search?q=vie...ch&q=views+of+a+nag1+transmission+shift+cable

 

[BigRussJepson]

Cheers bud,
Just had Green Flag out with his (lets call it a) diagnostic.

PO700 $01 Generic Transmission Control System (MIL Request)

But that could be because it occasionall forgets to change gear so needs to be popped into neutral and back into drive.
Towed the 300 meters home, see what tommoz brings.

 

[Tuercas viejas]

Thanks,
how do I find that exactly? Also, how could it rectify itself overnight and be fine for over 300 miles. Yes btw, auto four position.

Basically you have an intermittent fault which the transmission is picking up and locking you out of a start to protect the power systems. The problem source can be many fold--Like the exterior shift control slack movement as i have mentioned , the actual electrical operating threshold voltage and everything related to bad earth return (grounds).
Internal sensor(s)communication to name a few.
All the best
Hope you get it sorted --Intermittent faults can be the hardest to run down.
Tuercas Viejas

 

[BlackC55]

You need a Star. That code means bugger all without live data. It could be an old code from years ago.

When the fault happens d you get a clear gear display on the cluster?

Have you considered a faulty starter motor?

 

[BigRussJepson]

Thanks guys.
So, I sent a few hours with a mate checking a few things.
The cam pos sensor was throwing the usual oil into the plug, at the other end the ecu plug / socket was swimming in oil.
Also at the ecu, in # 4 its coroded and pin #11 has snapped.
After clean and rebuild its still not cranking but the main fan is kicking in like a jet turbine.
Well at least thats a couple of hours less that the garage is going to have to diagnose.
Anyone got a full 2 key / ecu / transponder / ignition switch set?
Seriously though, any advice going forward?
I'm probs going to get the AA to tow it to a local independent MB specalist in Burscough (Msc Prestige) so I can use the warranty claim insurance i have.