ABC Light....but read on...

[rossy]

If you've been reading my other thread you'll know I only took delivery of my CL55 W215 2002 today...
I know I got it at a very good price and now I know why LOL!

All of its later service and repairs have been done at MB Warrington Indy and by all accounts they come highly regarded (Any other info on them and comments would be great as if I need to that more than likey were I'll take it as they will know the car)

I did a thorough test of the suspension before I left a deposit and it functioned just as you'd expect...altho seems quicker than my s-class did at going up and down it was even and no unusual noises.
Also the sport button lit up and the ride seemed firmer hence me buying other than some little niggles which I've already sorted most...the car seemed very good.
However after a 15 mn drive today the dash warning came one...

So appart from checking for leaks that may have been clean off before what else could it be? What are the main issues if it seems to work perfect?
Fliud level is good...but could it have been toped up with the wrong suff? Would it know if it had...
Just after some pinters before I take it in really...

Must say although I hoped I was wrong my gut told me there had to be something...but if this is the only "magor" issue then once sorted I still feel I got a good un!

The niggles BTW:-

Brightness knob (far left of dash) missing, looks to have been cought and snapped off...can't see that being expensive even at the stealers! And to be honest may just cover the hole neetly!

Drivers door window pannel loose but was fully functional...and now fixed...
Passanger door seat control switch POD loose...not yet had chance as it started to pee it down...

Back light drivers side had bulb out...buld had gone but it was just rusty contacts...removed light cluster..changed bulb and cleaned contacts..but back and working a treat...

Leaver to open tray under driver seat broken..."common I believe" not done yet but sure I can sort...

Drivers side wing Mirrow glass discoloured....ordered replacment of fleebay!

And..but picky this one...sunroof very slow to fully open...guess it just needs a spodge of gease...up down fine.

So thats it so far anyway...everything else seems to work as it should.

So jest need to sort this ABC malark and she's a bute!!!

Appreciate any help and advice as always!!!

Rossy (Need to update my sig now too!)

 

[Alex]

If you've been reading my other thread you'll know I only took delivery of my CL55 W215 2002 today...
I know I got it at a very good price and now I know why LOL!

All of its later service and repairs have been done at MB Warrington Indy and by all accounts they come highly regarded (Any other info on them and comments would be great as if I need to that more than likey were I'll take it as they will know the car)

I did a thorough test of the suspension before I left a deposit and it functioned just as you'd expect...altho seems quicker than my s-class did at going up and down it was even and no unusual noises.
Also the sport button lit up and the ride seemed firmer hence me buying other than some little niggles which I've already sorted most...the car seemed very good.
However after a 15 mn drive today the dash warning came one...

So appart from checking for leaks that may have been clean off before what else could it be? What are the main issues if it seems to work perfect?
Fliud level is good...but could it have been toped up with the wrong suff? Would it know if it had...
Just after some pinters before I take it in really...

Must say although I hoped I was wrong my gut told me there had to be something...but if this is the only "magor" issue then once sorted I still feel I got a good un!

There's a number of issues with ABC that could have been overlooked/neglected by the previous owner so it's worth starting with an assumption that nothing has been done.

Ideally, you want your car on a hoist and hooked up to a STAR machine to get a full picture. Things you can do yourself are inspection of all hydraulic lines, struts, valves and of course the pump for leaks as per the diagram below. Get under your car with a torch, remove the front shield and have a good look around. Whatever's wet will be noticeable straight away.

Typically in an old car you would have leaking high pressure rubber hoses, possibly leaking struts, blocked valve blocks, unchanged filter and possibly a weeping pump. Depending on their location and accessibility, hoses can be replaced with new OEM ones. Alternatively rubber sections can be cut out and replicated in a hydraulic shop like Hosespare while you wait. It is much cheaper and you can then easily replace these sections in the future if/when they decide to weep again. They usually do it in places where rubber meets the steel connector/sleeve and if not fixed, could eventually burst somewhere on a motorway spilling all your fluid and allowing air, that usually kills the pump, in.

Struts and pump can be rebuilt in a garage - it's fiddly but doable. Haven't done it myself to be perfectly honest (didn't need to yet) but I will give it a go when time comes. You will need some repair kits which are available on the internet. This is the cheapest way. Alternatively, there's a shop in Germany that can rebuild them for you for about 1/2 of the main dealer price with nearly the same lifespan - Produkte

That's in a nutshell. Chances are it could be one or the other, hopefully not everything at the same time. ABC is great so long you understand how it works and are prepared to spend your time meticulously maintaining it. It's a hydraulic system after all, no different to any industrial hydraulic system that needs maintaining on time (something that Mercedes don't advocate for, leading to expensive repairs).

Wrapping this long post up, I'd check the fluid level (you did that already), get the car on a ramp and read it with a STAR first and foremost. You need to know what's wrong before you start tackling the issue(s). One thing for sure, it's going to cost you money but you can reduce the bill.

PS: Hydraulic fluid can be ordered from Germany for 1/2 the dealer's price - ebay.de. The stuff you want is Pentosin CHF 11S. ABC needs 4 litres. Get another 4 to clean the system from the old fluid as it deteriorates with time and turns brown/black as opposed to being green.

 

[m2287]

Is it the red or blue abc light? Does it stay on when you restart the car?

 

[rossy]

ABC fixed itself? I doubt it...but can hope!

Is it the red or blue abc light? Does it stay on when you restart the car?

Err I'd say its niether? Closer to blue than red for sure...its the only pic I have sorrys its small....you can see my broken far left knob too....LOL (re other posts)

White'ish...

Also just been for a good run...after fixing the other issues...back light for example and its not come on all all....???
When it was doing earlier today it would go off when the ignition was off and only come back after a 5-10min drive....now...its seems ok...doubt it will stay like this unfortuatly...
Another thing worth mensioning is the guy I got it off took it for a valet...and everything was drenched..its drying out now due to the 80+ mile trip we just done....I'm wandering if it could have been dampness on some electrical dodar causing it to play up...
Also had a wierd issue on my A8...granted it had LED rear lights but some not all of them went....quite a common thing....and the "computer" had a fruity...never said there was an issue with the rear lights but said front lights out when they was working...
Changed the rear cluster (for the later model of cource) and the issues all went away...
Working in I.T. I think these car computers are very touchy to voltage changes and can report errors purly based of what is really a glitch...

(Pardon my typos they are terrible) but you'll get used to them...

 

[rossy]

BIG THANKS TOO TO ALX that diagram will deffo come in handy...
My first job in the new year will be to make room in the DOUBLE garage for the merc...as with most I think....when not used it gathers [email protected] from relatives...sadly in our case from ones that have passed....like huge record collections and VHS video etc...
Once I can get it there (which will have to include butchering my workbench facing due to the 200 inch length its @rs will stick out otherwise!!!) I'll be able to work on my new toy in all weathers and get her sorted for Summer.....
But she will be road worthy all year round...now I got her, driven her there no way am gonna take it off the road for winter if only for those extream rare days of dryness!!!

 

[m2287]

Yes, for some reason it's known as blue but it is more white! Red is the one to worry about.

I have found that the blue one can randomly come on and disappear sharpish, I'd cycle the suspension up and down 10 times then wait and see if it comes on again and if it does get it scanned.

 

[rossy]

So can I assume red means component failure and blue/white means glitch...or error detected...
I must have gone up and down more than 10 times yesterday and its not come back on...
Just wondering weather to go the 86 mile trip to our 2nd home for new year in it or the Antara to give it another run...

 

[m2287]

Pretty much yes, the red light tends to be a split hose, blown pump or blocked valve block from what I've seen (anything which would create a loss of pressure). Blue can be air in the system, dodgy sensor, a funny reading from a sensor etc.

 

[rossy]

Shame the mercs are picky on ODB as I work in IT have have loads of Diag tools...
Is there any "software" on a laptop thats for Mers other than STAR obviously that would read if nowt else?

 

[fast28]

A white ABC warning message is usually due to a sensor value that is out of range, i.e. one corner of the car may be too low or slow to raise usually because of air in the hydraulic system or fluid loss. If you connect STAR or a similar system and read the ABC module it will probably say something like left front suspension too low - not much help but will point to a system pressure problem, sometimes a sensor can fail but this tends to be rare. If you need to read fault codes on all the modules of your CL then I can recommend Carsoft 7.4, it's about £60 from China, you will need a laptop with Windows XP and a serial port to run it. I can read all my modules including ABC, Distronic etc, it can also read sensor values in real time and do some basic coding too.

 

[Alex]

I wouldn't ignore the warning message as it's unlikely to go away on its own. Hoses or connections might weep but not enough to trigger a sensor, so you drive thinking everything is okay until one of them bursts under pressure.

Re cycling of the suspension. Wouldn't do it either at this stage. If your system is contaminated you're basically pushing debris like aluminium shavings around the system. They eventually get stuck in valve blocks or your pump. You can siphon your system on your drive way but you still need new fluid and new filters.

It's all speculation until you know what's wrong but then again the easiest way is to get it on a STAR and in the air.

 

[m2287]

I've had the error come up and not come up again for 6 months, other people have said the same... I once had it come up because a ride night sensor was caked in mud, keeping them clean and lubed is a good idea!

If the system being contaminated triggered the error message, chances are that something is on its way out anyway. Raising the suspension up and down several times using the dash button is the official MB way to bleed the system of any air if you don't have STAR.

If it hasn't come back up again after 50 miles of driving, I wouldn't worry ! I've just replaced a (the second in 4 years) broken strut on mine and am replacing a split line and rebuilding the rear valve block on Tuesday!

 

[Alex]

Hey m2287. I hear you re air but at this stage it is not known whether it's air or something else triggering the message. So personally I would go with a more careful approach, given that OP doesn't know what's been done to the car or even if it's been topped up with correct fluid.

After all siphoning and new filters only take 1/2 hour to do and will take care of several possible issues at once. However if the system is indeed contaminated, pushing debris or wrong fluid around will do more damage than good. I agree however, that once you know your car and stuff you put in it, it becomes much easier to diagnose and fix

 

[rossy]

been going throught more of the history (quite a lot) and its had a new pump back end of last year....5/11/2012 (ok year before now) so that "should" be good...
It been fine since the day after I got it....but as soon (Hopefuly this weekend) I get it in the garage its gonna get a good look at from below...I'm also fitting my 19" wheels and tyres off the A8 (should bolt right on I hope with the centre rings removed for the audi) as, one it needs two rear tyres...and two, one front rim needs the edge sorting as light curbed. So will be able to get in and have a good look under each arch too....check brakes, pad etc...(again should be fine as not long since had them done). Want to mint up the AMG rims which will go back on...then prob sell the 19s.
At the end of the day as I got it at such a good price if I gotta spend I bit its fine....its kinda of a winter project to get minted for Summer.
That said..if nothing major thats good....I'm not wishing it to be something expensive....LOL

 

[rossy]

More info that may help diagnose...

OK, not saying for definate...but so far it seems the ABC warning only comes on if I have it in sports mode....could this point it to anything in particular??

Thanks

 

[rossy]

bump

 

[rossy]

OK booked in for full Diag and health check at MB Tech Warrington....
I'd appreciate everyone crossing their fingers, toes, legs and anything else that can be crossed its not going to be to expensive...
If nothing more I'll sure to end up with a list of Winter Jobs to do.....

 

[Touche]

I got myself a carsoft 7.4 multiplexer from obdtool.co.uk to read the codes off my 1998 w202. From what I understand it should read codes off most mercedes cars upto the end of 2004.

Someone mentioned it earlier in the thread and I'd been doing some research for a while. I found obdtool did them for 29 euros which is around £24 and it came shipped from Singapore in about 2 weeks. I've not managed to test it yet as I don't have a windows XP computer at the moment but I'm building a box out of spare parts which should come to under £30.

I thought building a computer for scanning codes with the carsoft tool which could be used again and again would be more economical than using a garage to read codes as a one off.

Maybe that's some use to you? Maybe not...

 

[rossy]

Yes thanks...as I said I have quite a few...ELM ODB2, BMW reset tool, VAG hand held diag and reset, hand held Universal Diag and reset...
I have the Carsoft 7.4 but you need their BOX as it were from the laptop to the car...I thought it may work on the ELM I have...not tried but looking around do not think it will.
I'll be looking into it futher tho, like you say if I can get one for £24 its could be a worth while investment..
But for now having only had this Merc a week...quite happy for MB Tech to give it a good going over....its not expensive....once I have what I'm sure will be a list of things to sort out and fix over winter and its all sorted...then time to look into it again. Dont want to spend a penny on anything until I know what may need to be done to get it minted and right 1st...
Plus some of the work if I'm comfortable, I'll be doing myself...you don't buy a weekend car unless you plan and enjoy tinkering with them...even though you hope your not all the time!!

 

[Touche]

Good luck mate. Definitely worth doing it right 1st time if you can.

My old w202 c200 was very neglected and I didn't want to spend any more money on it than absolutely necessary... hence researching about an appropriate cheapo code reader.