Billy's W124 Coupe Project

[d w124]

Could help you there but it seems someone gets upset about NSV having a potential customer lol

A bit of sarcasm there I see,why not say it straight

 

[BillyW124]

Engine bay

Heres's the beauty... few bits a and bobs to piece together still in there but its a goodun..

Some sunshine bling!

 

[BillyW124]

The 9J's

The weigh in!!

 

[WDB124066]

Well then; where are the numbers...

 

[jeremy 2516]

Coming along nicely, but please do something with the intake.... even an extender into a cone like my 190 3.6 would help?

 

[jeremy 2516]

"The m104 is a heavy old lump,"

Au contraire my friend, the M104 as a 3.6 weighs 154 KG's.

An M103 2.6 weighs 170 KG's , and an M102 16V weighs 169 KG's.

Go figure.

Actually it is because there are bigger holes in the block therefore less meat and is made of a lot of magnesium both in the block and head.

 

[carat 3.6]

Coming along nicely, but please do something with the intake.... even an extender into a cone like my 190 3.6 would help?

Billys car has the correct airbox for the 3.2. In that picture the airbox is removed for access to the wiring loom, I'm converting a us spec headlight loom to uk spec. Same reason why the fuse box is open.

"The m104 is a heavy old lump,"

Au contraire my friend, the M104 as a 3.6 weighs 154 KG's.

An M103 2.6 weighs 170 KG's , and an M102 16V weighs 169 KG's.

Go figure.

Actually it is because there are bigger holes in the block therefore less meat and is made of a lot of magnesium both in the block and head.

Comparing the weight of the m104 engine to the m111 that it replaced, there is a fair weight gain. Remember the m104 gearbox is larger also.

As for the m103 vs m102 16v, the m102 has a ridiculously heavy accessory drive setup at the front of the engine. Cast alloy parts on the 6cyl vs solid iron brackets etc on the 4cyl.

 

[WDB124066]

How hard would it be to lower a steering wheel in the car...?

 

[WDB124066]

Here's a nice stance too Billy, what do you think?

 

[carat 3.6]

How hard would it be to lower a steering wheel in the car...?

How much lower?

 

[WDB124066]

2" would be nice..

 

[carat 3.6]

2" lower can be done by spacing the column away from its mountings, the only problem is that the ignition barrel would also be 2" lower. You could make a bracket to hold the ignition barrel at it's normal height, but the steering lock would no longer work...

 

[mazza]

Well then; where are the numbers...

Numbers are coming very soon

but initial corner weight and cross weight data is looking better than expected

mazza

 

[BillyW124]

Here's a nice stance too Billy, what do you think?

Very nice W! I wouldn't touch a thing on yours... it is your's isnt it?

2" lower can be done by spacing the column away from its mountings, the only problem is that the ignition barrel would also be 2" lower. You could make a bracket to hold the ignition barrel at it's normal height, but the steering lock would no longer work...

Possible w140 column.....?

 

[BillyW124]

2" lower can be done by spacing the column away from its mountings, the only problem is that the ignition barrel would also be 2" lower. You could make a bracket to hold the ignition barrel at it's normal height, but the steering lock would no longer work...

Little more thought on this, the steering column bolts on to the bulk head just below the speedo. If one was to modify the position the fixings would have to be quite strong imo. You wouldn't want it to collapse in the event of an accident? If all is done well, the gap between bulk head and column would need to be filled.

I would have loved to fit somthing that can tilt. I find the 124 steering position not quite right. Hand position is 'over' rather than 'under'. Reach column doesn't really help as the further nearer you adjust to you the higher it goes!! Lol.

I reckon a w140 or an sl r129 solution could be retrofitted...

 

[WDB124066]

Yes it is - one of them at least. Incidentally that is sitting on original sportline springs and pads in the front but with a 65 series tyre, and for the rear I went with Sportline Reds, very slightly lower that the standards Sportline Blues. Front needs to drop a little bit so I am after a set of reds for the front - a hard find, but I have room to move wth pad thickness, is it possible to machine the pad to change the thickness a little - for the hair splitters.

I hear exactly what you are saying about the steering wheel height, REALLY appreciate a piccie or sketch of where it mounts to help me understand the issues. I am a long way from a wrecker so it is hard to pop along for a look. Gaps and things can be filled, I was thinking about the change in angle aspect; at some point, at some place the change in angle will need to be compensated for before it gets to the steering gear, is there something in the column that will accommodate the change in angle a UJ or similar...??

Regarding rear camber adjustment, take a look at this set up on an early AMG wagon, looks to me like an adjustable spring link that will control the rear camber, be nice to retrofit that to our cars, I'm ever so slightly over the rear camber tolerance with the reds in...
The other way is to redrill the outboard spring link hole 5 mm closer to the hole at the other end - after welding up the original hole first of course.

 

[babyblueCE]

car looks quality mate!

 

[BillyW124]

Yes it is - one of them at least. Incidentally that is sitting on original sportline springs and pads in the front but with a 65 series tyre, and for the rear I went with Sportline Reds, very slightly lower that the standards Sportline Blues. Front needs to drop a little bit so I am after a set of reds for the front - a hard find, but I have room to move wth pad thickness, is it possible to machine the pad to change the thickness a little - for the hair splitters.

I hear exactly what you are saying about the steering wheel height, REALLY appreciate a piccie or sketch of where it mounts to help me understand the issues. I am a long way from a wrecker so it is hard to pop along for a look. Gaps and things can be filled, I was thinking about the change in angle aspect; at some point, at some place the change in angle will need to be compensated for before it gets to the steering gear, is there something in the column that will accommodate the change in angle a UJ or similar...??

Regarding rear camber adjustment, take a look at this set up on an early AMG wagon, looks to me like an adjustable spring link that will control the rear camber, be nice to retrofit that to our cars, I'm ever so slightly over the rear camber tolerance with the reds in...
The other way is to redrill the outboard spring link hole 5 mm closer to the hole at the other end - after welding up the original hole first of course.

You probably already know that the spring pads come in 4 thicknesses for the front, instead of modifying the one in there already its probably best you change it. Thing is you want the spring to sit nicely in the pad. They have a kind of 'thread' in them to seat the spring properly.

..do you know what thickness you have up front?

In regards to the steering column, the mounting is in the area behind the black shroud covering the stalks etc and just below the speedo. I reckon lowering the angle the steering comes in will cause a problem with the second half of the steering shaft column (the ribbed bit) to the steering box. They cant really be flexed as it joins straight on to the top half. I'm sure with some engineering brilliance to the lower half of column it could be possible..


Rear camber..i'm looking into this currently. Looking to get some adjustable arms so the 9j's sit straight or straighter getting rid of some or all of the natural negative camber. As i'm wanting to go slightly lower with adjusting shims at the rear i need it.

To put it into perspective, the inner tread on my 8j's need replacing after just 8400 miles. These 9j's will wear the same if not quicker.

 

[WDB124066]

Have you seen the size of the camber arms in these cars...?

 

[BillyW124]

yea the longish arm with an arch in it...