Billy's W124 Coupe Project

[WDB124066]

Yes, how to adjust that, it's a strong blighter.

 

[WDB124066]

You think you could get a slot in the lobe that takes the inboard bolt on that spring link, that's what it looks like is happening to me on that AMG, what do you reckon...??

 

[BillyW124]

Tbh that picture confuses me

camber adjustment is on one of the top links.. The spring link you are referring to is the bottom control arm correct?

 

[John Jones Jr]

These should do the job, great value too. About $75 for both plus shipping. Home - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

Parts list:
QTY:2 91008001-STR Forged Steel-4 Bar End - 11 Degree Shank
$12.99 $25.98
STYLE: Str

QTY:2 91008002 Forged Steel 4-Bar End - Straight Shank/LH Thread
$14.99 $29.98

QTY:2 1750246 Jam Nut 5/8 Inch RH Raw
$0.99 $1.98

QTY:2 1750446 Jam Nut 5/8" LH Raw
$0.99 $1.98

Make sure to get 9" long links maximum, 10" is too long. - Note: 9'' suitable for W202.
1034158-9 ALUMINUM TIE ROD SLEEVE, 5/8"
$7.99 $15.98
LENGTH: 9

 

[BillyW124]

Thanks for the link JJJ.

The whole rear axle will be built like that shown off the car. Have made some inquiries this morning for the best way to go about this so lets see.

The more room for adjusting things at the rear the better as 15x6.5 ET 44 Vs. 18x9 ET 35 is a big difference!!

I'd like to adjust rear toe as well.

 

[John Jones Jr]

Thanks for the link JJJ.

No bother.

 

[RBYCC]

Billy

Before you add any camber change device be it adjustable link, eccentric bracket, LCA bush etc, first mount the wheel on the car and read the camber that you ended up with by lowering.
The ride height as you lower it will result in more negative camber, as will the wheel width and offset. 2" drop equates to -1.00 to -1.50 degree camber change.

Once you ascertain your actual camber reading, then see how much clearance you have with the upper wheel arch sheet metal.

Upper adjustable camber devices will only allow you to adjust positive to near factory spec providing you have adequate sheet metal clearance.
Cheap, but not the best technology.

If you don't have the clearance then the top adjuster recommended will only afford more negative adjustment to preclude rubbing. Keep in mind the toe changes with the camber.

Consider the K-MAC design more expensive but much better then the suggested DIY upper adjustment. Similar to the stock front camber eccentric bolt adjustment.

K-MAC Adjustable Bushings Checklist




Ed A.

 

[RBYCC]

Regarding rear camber adjustment, take a look at this set up on an early AMG wagon, looks to me like an adjustable spring link that will control the rear camber, be nice to retrofit that to our cars, I'm ever so slightly over the rear camber tolerance with the reds in...

If you look closely at the picture, the LCA bushing bolt is not centered, appears much like the eccentric LCA bush design from K-MAC.

Ed A.

 

[BillyW124]

I will be going lower at the rear - but the lowering will be dictated by the shim pads as mentioned only now. We have the perfect spring at the rear in terms of both lowering and spring rates.

Currently I am on the highest thickness at the rear (a 3 nib @ 18mm) I have a choice of a possible two other thicknesses of 13 and 8mm

I may not even need to mess about at the rear tbh. This all depends on the final set up when the car has been driven and settled. The car will be slightly raised @ the front so this may counter balance the rear.

When trying to get the right stance its kind of hard because i'm really picky.

Although the ground isnt completely flat in this pic, it gives us an indication of what clearance i've got currently to the wheel arch with my 9j alloy.

I only need camber adjustment of a few mm's outwards. I think anymore than that the tyre may rub on the inside of the upper arch (not the arch itself). Notice how the tyre selection plays a massive role in arch clearance..a straight wall profile and i've got no chance.

Now...check this out up front.

This is how the car sits with the current springs that gave me perfect lowering with the 220 lump. (was using a 2 nib pad 13mm)

With the 3.2 lump in and the same springs even with the thickest pad of 23mm that car is slammed dunked!!

looks very cool though, i'm only going very slightly up from what you see here.

 

[RBYCC]

A bit of stretch on the tire, it works and it looks very good !!!!!

 

[WDB124066]

If you look closely at the picture, the LCA bushing bolt is not centered, appears much like the eccentric LCA bush design from K-MAC.

Ed A.

Yep, either that or they've slotted the lobe similar to the front. I am not too sure why you of all people were confused by my earlier post...??

If you don't like any of those methods you can always plug the outboard hole and drill it closer to the inboard hole - but you will need tight control over what you are doing if you go that route.

@ Billy, you can adjust rear camber by adjusting the length of the upper or lower link.

I prefer the lower spring link adjustment method.

 

[WDB124066]

Cambolts here with a slot in the chassis like the front; 5 mm should give plenty of camber adjustment - what do you think Gents - there is even a hefty shoulder on both lugs to take the cambolt cams.....

 

[WDB124066]

Here are some Mercedes-Benz training notes for the rear suspension on a 201 which is virtually identical to the 124. See the inboard springlink bolt - it's a cambolt.

I wonder if this was the old way of adjusting rear camber but it was discontinued due to being able to hold tighter manufacturing tolerances...??

 

[RBYCC]

Yep, either that or they've slotted the lobe similar to the front. I am not too sure why you of all people were confused by my earlier post...??

If I was confused, I don't recall, perhaps another senior moment ?

If you don't like any of those methods you can always plug the outboard hole and drill it closer to the inboard hole - but you will need tight control over what you are doing if you go that route.

@ Billy, you can adjust rear camber by adjusting the length of the upper or lower link.

I prefer the lower spring link adjustment method.

There was an individual in the USA, who owned a 6.0L W124 Hammer, that used to sell the best solution.
He had a fabricator modify/shorten W202 rear LCA's...sold under the name of RDM-Tek.
Unfortunately not enough demand, no longer made but still show up for sale some times on the USA forums.

 

[RBYCC]

Here are some Mercedes-Benz training notes for the rear suspension on a 201 which is virtually identical to the 124. See the inboard springlink bolt - it's a cambolt.

I wonder if this was the old way of adjusting rear camber but it was discontinued due to being able to hold tighter manufacturing tolerances...??

Interesting..3A and 4A are eccentric which can only be for adjustment.
3A appears to be a camber adjustment ?

 

[WDB124066]

I think that is the easiest solution, but, you have to know how much to shorten each side, the plug weld has to be a good one and the hole repositioned accurately around 5 mm away from original hole centre. Good thing is to shorten it, it takes the hole closer to the stronger part of the pressing...

Still like the apparent MB solution, means slotting the inboard mounts [maybe even with a file & a level filing block...??] you only need a few mm, but that way you get adjustable camber. Looks suspiciously like MB did have slots there, wonder if they are just covered up by a washer...??

 

[WDB124066]

Interesting..3A and 4A are eccentric which can only be for adjustment.
3A appears to be a camber adjustment ?

Yes it is is AFAIC. 4a is toe and is still in use but 3A was cancelled early on if I remember correctly.

 

[BillyW124]

..interesting

i didn't know the lower control arm can be adjusted as well??

If i'm reading the above info correctly, am i able to move the bottom control arm inwards slightly..?

 

[mazza]

..interesting

i didn't know the lower control arm can be adjusted as well??

If i'm reading the above info correctly, am i able to move the bottom control arm inwards slightly..?

relax bruv....

good things comes to those who wait..hehe

mazza

 

[mazza]

Now...check this out up front.

This is how the car sits with the current springs that gave me perfect lowering with the 220 lump. (was using a 2 nib pad 13mm)

With the 3.2 lump in and the same springs even with the thickest pad of 23mm that car is slammed dunked!!

looks very cool though, i'm only going very slightly up from what you see here.

Hey

That's your heaviest corner too

I did all the maths, including new static weight VS springs rate

our preliminary calculations before the lump went in were pretty much spot on

I'm working on the maths for the new springs

mazza