C350e owners club

[Sraj]

I only have myself to blame for not getting the car checked before buying. I didn’t know Mercedes dealerships were overpriced and useless as well.

I’ve only been lucky with one used car throughout my life (Ford Mondeo). The rest of them have been disastrous, mainly automatics.

It’s a shame that no one told me about the loose wheel joint earlier, otherwise I would have flogged the car and got myself a small car.

I haven’t been lucky with cars and a lot of drivers, especially the young ones, don’t really respect their cars. I believe my car was treated like shit and I’m paying the price for it.

I bought the car from a company called Ashbourne Automotives and that ****er lied to me by telling me that the car had a maintenance contract with lease plan. The only thing that was done were the service and mot.

I’m likely to go back to Brand new/PCP plan because buying a used car is a waste of time and money. The only people gaining from used cars are the sellers.

I spoke to the garage that changed my thermostat and he told me can do the job for £200, but only using pattern parts. Original will cost £300.

I was also told about a small oil leak.

I’ll probably hang on till August and get myself a 70 plate. I can guarantee that I will never own another Mercedes or BMW again in my lifetime. Both are overrated, overpriced and offer shocking customer service ( especially Mercedes).

some people have luck and some don’t; unfortunately I’m the latter

Sraj - you have my deepest sympathy. It sounds like your car is an absolute dog and from my experience, not at all typical of Mercedes. I now only do 25k miles a year but I used to do almost 35k miles every year. Typically I keep my cars for 3 years. None of my Mercs ever needed anything more than normal servicing (apart from the C350 suspension compressor - repaired under warranty just before 3years was up). Believe me, I drive my cars hard (the C350e was in Sport mode most of the time) and even with the very high mileages I never had to have the brake rotors changed or skimmed, never had any suspension wear, never had the annoying electrical failures your car has experienced. I cannot explain how but it sounds like your car must have been badly abused early in its life.

 

[Deleted member 126969]

There’s a lot to be said for bangernomics. These days, you could pick up a Japanese or Korean cheap used car and be pretty confident it’ll treat you right. If you want to spend more, Lexus and their dealers won’t let you down either.

I ran sheds for almost all my life. Generally, the more I spent, the worse the result. Frankly, I wish I’d stuck with that policy rather then buying a new car. Mine hasn’t let me down.....yet, but I fully expect it to fail in an expensive fashion long before it should.

Assuming I ever need another car, it’ll be back to sheds I think. If the C350e outlasts my need for it, I’ll be truly amazed. If I get 10 years out of it I’ll consider myself lucky beyond belief.

The price we pay for the intangible benefit of owning a supposedly premium product.......

 

[JohnC350e]

I've had it a few times, never really been able to pin it down to a set of circumstances but it's usually sorted itself out within a few restarts. I like to think it's some kind of technical feature rather than a glitch.

My theory on this is that the vehicle battery needs charging so it runs the engine to charge it. I've noticed on many occasions that my engine runs for a while unexpectedly when there's charge in the battery, or when the engine's running on a light load but the displays shows that it isn't charging the HV battery - both of these scenarios I have (rightly or wrongly ) put down to the car putting charge into the vehicle battery (which logically must be required on occasions is the engine doesn't run for an extended period?)

 

[Deleted member 126969]

Not sure about that thought, it doesn’t have a conventional alternator, just the motor generator unit. I’d assumed the 12V battery was charged from the HV system??

 

[JohnC350e]

Not sure about that thought, it doesn’t have a conventional alternator, just the motor generator unit. I’d assumed the 12V battery was charged from the HV system??

Ah right! You know more than me about it than me then Chris - I'd assumed it had a normal alternator; I guess because I likened it to my motorhome where the engine charges the vehicle and leisure batteries; but of course, they're both 12V. I do believe the HV battery does recharge the vehicle battery (I've noticed on the App before that the vehicle battery was showing as 'partially charged' but after a journey running purely on electric it shows as 'fully charged). I wasn't aware this was the only means of charging it though; but you may well be right. In which case, I wonder why the car sometimes doesn't charge the HV when on a light throttle; and sometimes the engine stays running at tickover with my foot completely off the throttle (engine hot). The calculations this powerplant makes, and parameters it encompasses are truly baffling!

 

[Deleted member 126969]

It certainly has some complicated rules about when and how the ICE operates doesn’t it.

 

[CaptainChaos]

I’ve pretty much given up on the app. I now go and sit in the car to activated the departure time. It takes a few seconds, which is a small price to pay for not having to watch the blue wheel of death until it does or doesn’t work...

I've still got the old app on my phone and that works 99% of the time for defrosting, locking/unlocking etc.

The new app (1.08 now!) is very pretty but I have never once got it to defrost or lock the car. It can obviously communicate with the car as it displays trip and tyre pressure information, but it doesn't seem to be able to do much more than that.

 

[Deleted member 126969]

Same here. I had deleted the old app but quickly restored it given how unreliable the new one is.

All pretty moot now though, given ‘things’.

 

[Darrener]

If it's the key battery the car shows a picture of the key on the dash.
Main dealers normally replace them at a service.

Hi sorry for the late reply, it was the key fob battery, all you need is a CR 2032 battery, and on youtube shows you how to get into the key fob, its really easy took less than 5 mins.

 

[CrimsonDiablo11]

Hi All, been a while since I've logged in to catch up with the forum chats, for some reason this forum is no longer available on tapatalk which is what I use for all the forums and didn't realise it till last week as work has been mental busy with this virus (work as a nurse) ...
Anyway, its a month of highs and lows... For the high point (pic attached), upgraded my grill to the GT panamericana 2018 version.. Some days I love it and other days I'm not so sure ( let me know your thoughts).. Didn't put on that Amg badge as its not an amg but it is different, my thought process on the grill change was that the C350e is a unique model of C Class and therefore it should have a unique styling imo... I plan on experimenting with using the eqpower emblem as a grill badge in place of the amg logo , I have both ordered so will hopefully have them soon.. (thoughts?)..

Now the low part of the month and not related to the grill change,
Was heading out my drive in the car last week and got that dreaded "Stop - Car Too Low", yes my air suspension was deflated.. So call to the AA, 1.5hrs trying to get the car onto a low loader tow truck without damaging it.. One week on and have the car back with a new compressor fitted and I'm €1000 out of pocket ..
Fingers crossed nothing else happens, although the drivers door has started not wanting to open when I unlock the car, have to lock and open again ..

Cheers Gar

 

[Darrener]

Hi The grill looks great, where did you get it from and was it expensive.
Cheers
Darrener

 

[CrimsonDiablo11]

Hi The grill looks great, where did you get it from and was it expensive.
Cheers
Darrener

Hi Darrener,

Picked it up from a German reseller that has a page on ebay, quality is oem spec.. everything lines up perfect.. Took 2 of us to install it and it took a bit of patients removing the old grill not to break the clips..
Here's the link to his ebay store..

Pardon our interruption...

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Darrener]

Hi Darrener,

Picked it up from a German reseller that has a page on ebay, quality is oem spec.. everything lines up perfect.. Took 2 of us to install it and it took a bit of patients removing the old grill not to break the clips..
Here's the link to his ebay store..

Pardon our interruption...

www.ebay.co.uk

Many thanks

 

[Rickoshea]

Hi All, been a while since I've logged in to catch up with the forum chats, for some reason this forum is no longer available on tapatalk which is what I use for all the forums and didn't realise it till last week as work has been mental busy with this virus (work as a nurse) ...
Anyway, its a month of highs and lows... For the high point (pic attached), upgraded my grill to the GT panamericana 2018 version.. Some days I love it and other days I'm not so sure ( let me know your thoughts).. Didn't put on that Amg badge as its not an amg but it is different, my thought process on the grill change was that the C350e is a unique model of C Class and therefore it should have a unique styling imo... I plan on experimenting with using the eqpower emblem as a grill badge in place of the amg logo , I have both ordered so will hopefully have them soon.. (thoughts?)..

Now the low part of the month and not related to the grill change,
Was heading out my drive in the car last week and got that dreaded "Stop - Car Too Low", yes my air suspension was deflated.. So call to the AA, 1.5hrs trying to get the car onto a low loader tow truck without damaging it.. One week on and have the car back with a new compressor fitted and I'm €1000 out of pocket ..
Fingers crossed nothing else happens, although the drivers door has started not wanting to open when I unlock the car, have to lock and open again ..

Cheers Gar



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Hi Gar

Firstly, just like to say thanks for your work at this testing time - we salute you and other key workers!

This is my first post so hopefully you or someone can help me out?


I am the proud owner of my first MB and I too opted for the C350e (2016) - loving it and already looking for some subtle mods to add a bit of additional style to her — I’ve decided it’s a her, although not named her yet.....forum suggestions all welcome! (Electra is a bit too corny....)

Day 2 and I ordered the GT grill myself as well - been eyeing it up prior to buying the car! It arrived last week and was about to dive into changing it.

I Watched the YouTube vids on bumper removal and grill change and it all looked fairly straight fwd, although I haven’t tracked down the std 12v battery yet! Seems to be an inverter fitted under the bonnet where it was on the vid and just a jump lead connection under the bonnet. Is it in the boot area with the HV battery possibly or under the rear seats? Be good to know for future reference.

Ignorance is bliss and Confidence was at a high until a mate brought up his trim removal set for me to ensure everything comes off nice and cleanly (he works in a body shop). When he asked what I was doing, he mentioned that often when they work on Mercs, bumper removal etc, they often have to run it to the ‘Main Dealer’ to have the radar and pedestrian impact sensors reset and re-calibrated?

The model is a Premium plus so has distronic plus radar etc.

My questions are this.

1. Should I need to disconnect the earth from the std 12v battery (wherever it may be)? Vid suggests this to prevent a U60 pedestrian sensor fault and to do this - the owners manual suggests not and to return it to MB as many cause chaos with other systems....Was thinking of leaving the earth connected to prevent any other gremlins and faults appearing, leaving everthing connected ‘cable wise’ to the bumper, and working on it in close proximity - should be enough room to quickly change the grill?

2. Where is the pedestrian sensor? Vid shows some kind of strip on the passenger side to look out for. I can’t see it with the bumper fitted, although my be visible from underneath when the skid guards are removed? Am I worrying about something I don’t need to if I ensure the ignotion is off and keys are in the house away from the vehicle. Or do you just disconnect it? Vid just says make sure it’s not damaged before continuing....doesnt say What to do with I (if at all anything?)

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look at 3:18

3. the radar looks as if it’s attached to the car not bumper so shouldn’t be disturbed? In my mind, I won’t be moving this so no calibration needed?

Any experienced help and guidance would be greatly appreciated. I’m sure it a simple process but I’ve had doubt sewn now..... Im wondering if he is referring to disconnection everything when they are doing a front end repair rather than just a bumper removal and has got me unduly worried!

Any guidance is much appreciated as want to change it over but don’t want a journey to MB on Tuesday after the B/Hol!

Thanks in advance

Graham

 

[CrimsonDiablo11]

Hi Gar

Firstly, just like to say thanks for your work at this testing time - we salute you and other key workers!

This is my first post so hopefully you or someone can help me out?


I am the proud owner of my first MB and I too opted for the C350e (2016) - loving it and already looking for some subtle mods to add a bit of additional style to her — I’ve decided it’s a her, although not named her yet.....forum suggestions all welcome! (Electra is a bit too corny....)

Day 2 and I ordered the GT grill myself as well - been eyeing it up prior to buying the car! It arrived last week and was about to dive into changing it.

I Watched the YouTube vids on bumper removal and grill change and it all looked fairly straight fwd, although I haven’t tracked down the std 12v battery yet! Seems to be an inverter fitted under the bonnet where it was on the vid and just a jump lead connection under the bonnet. Is it in the boot area with the HV battery possibly or under the rear seats? Be good to know for future reference.

Ignorance is bliss and Confidence was at a high until a mate brought up his trim removal set for me to ensure everything comes off nice and cleanly (he works in a body shop). When he asked what I was doing, he mentioned that often when they work on Mercs, bumper removal etc, they often have to run it to the ‘Main Dealer’ to have the radar and pedestrian impact sensors reset and re-calibrated?

The model is a Premium plus so has distronic plus radar etc.

My questions are this.

1. Should I need to disconnect the earth from the std 12v battery (wherever it may be)? Vid suggests this to prevent a U60 pedestrian sensor fault and to do this - the owners manual suggests not and to return it to MB as many cause chaos with other systems....Was thinking of leaving the earth connected to prevent any other gremlins and faults appearing, leaving everthing connected ‘cable wise’ to the bumper, and working on it in close proximity - should be enough room to quickly change the grill?

2. Where is the pedestrian sensor? Vid shows some kind of strip on the passenger side to look out for. I can’t see it with the bumper fitted, although my be visible from underneath when the skid guards are removed? Am I worrying about something I don’t need to if I ensure the ignotion is off and keys are in the house away from the vehicle. Or do you just disconnect it? Vid just says make sure it’s not damaged before continuing....doesnt say What to do with I (if at all anything?)

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For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

look at 3:18

3. the radar looks as if it’s attached to the car not bumper so shouldn’t be disturbed? In my mind, I won’t be moving this so no calibration needed?

Any experienced help and guidance would be greatly appreciated. I’m sure it a simple process but I’ve had doubt sewn now..... Im wondering if he is referring to disconnection everything when they are doing a front end repair rather than just a bumper removal and has got me unduly worried!

Any guidance is much appreciated as want to change it over but don’t want a journey to MB on Tuesday after the B/Hol!

Thanks in advance

Graham

Hi Graham,
Sorry for late reply.. The 12v in in the boot under the cardboard panel.. I didn't disconnect mine as I don't have the distrinic system but I do have the full surround radar system for parking, this is a clear tube that is on the back of the bumper connected to both sides, be careful not to pull it too much taking it out of the foam support(you will see it when the bumper is off.. From what I've read on line most have not had to recalebrat or clear a distrionic error when changing it and I'm not sure the even disconnected the battery ( *** never have the key in engine or system on if your going to disconnect bits without disconnected battery first, could trigger a fault or impact/airbag sensor***) . I only had one wiring loom on the bottom right (drivers side) that I had to disconnect..

Hope this helps, happy motering with you new girl

 

[CaptainChaos]

Hope everyone is keeping well.

A question for the number wizards (Chris-S!). How long should it take to charge the car from say 10% to full, using the brick charger on the 8 amp setting?

The reason for asking is that I think my car is charging much quicker than it used to do, but at the same time I'm not getting as much range, so I'm wondering if something is amiss.

In other news I have now got Goodyear Asymmetric 5 tyres all round and they are a big improvement after the mixture of Bridgestones (front) and Continentals (rear) my car came with. They are not MO marked, but they are quiet, grippy and reasonably priced.

My engine management light came on because I had the gall to accelerate hard uphill with not much fuel in the tank. There was no change in performance and the light stayed on for a few weeks before deciding to go out again.

 

[Ted]

Need to know the rating of the battery in ampere hours, and if the charger maintains 8 amps right up until the end of charge.
it’s not often appreciated but a low discharge voltage also results in a higher charge volrage for the same current so a poor performing battery will get to full charge (but not the full original capacity) sooner.
if that all makes sense :/

 

[Deleted member 126969]

290V, 22Ah.....or 6.38kWh

Unfortunately there is an unknown variable we can’t ever hope to get much of an idea on and that's the power used to run the battery temperature management, so any measurement of energy put in to charge is always going to be a bit of a guess as to how much actually ends up in the battery itself.

 

[Deleted member 126969]

@CaptainChaos I’ve been keeping a note of charging parameters for a bit now. I log start of charge time, end time, start capacity as indicated in dash and charge current. There are lots of errors and assumptions but I try to be as consistent as I can so I can at least see any trends.

This method is giving an average ‘suggested usable capacity’ of about 5.7kWh. If we assume that’s right(!), then at 8A and again, assume nominal 240V supply, ignoring parasitic losses (worse the slower you charge I think, as while it may need a bit less cooling, it needs it longer IYSWIM), make a wild stab at 3 hours for 100% capacity and work from there. From 10% would be (very) roughly 2 hours 40 minutes.

Charge current stays at maximum for most of the time but does tail off sharply at the end. I’ve no direct reading on this, just monitoring of combined house draw. Seems to drop over about the last 5 minutes or so.

This is on my 2016 very low mileage car. Over winter I was getting paranoid about the battery (again), but as the weather has warmed, the paranoia is fading a bit, seems to be much the same range as when new. The heater absolutely hammers the range. A/C hardly touches it by comparison. Shame MB didn‘t fit a heat pump instead of PTCs as it would have made a massive improvement.

 

[CaptainChaos]

Thanks Chris! 3 hours is about what it's taking so I will stop worrying.
It's probably all the short journeys I've been doing.