television
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
Thank you very much, I have sent it.
You can edit and remove your Email address if you wish
c43 crank position sensor and cam position sensor
Thank you very much, I have sent it.
You can edit and remove your Email address if you wish
recycled
MB Enthusiast
Can anyone please show us a picture ,or tell us of the position of these sensors and what they look like?. Andwhat happens if they go faulty? Do you have a bad ride or will the car just refuse to move?Thanks
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2007
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- 20,694
- Location
- Portsmouth, Hampshire.
- Car
- E55K SL500 E250X2 Smart44 Brabus Track car E450Cabriolet X350 Pick up
They are located on the engine block near the bell housing and points towards the ring gear (flywheel)
television
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.460&CT=M&cat=45K&SID=15&SGR=105&SGN=03
Item 86 is the sensor on this 210 290 602 diesel engine
Item 86 is the sensor on this 210 290 602 diesel engine
SG CL500
Active Member
By chance mine went on the same day (although in France, just to rub in in) - you can have mine as well if you want.
SG CL500
Active Member
We're currently dicussing a my (same) problem in the le mans thread. Basically the car engine just dies without any warning and then refuses to start. After a few minutes the sensor resets itself and the car can be restarted and works for a bit before cutting out again. I brought mine back from france so can post a picture of the offending item later if nobody has beaten me to it.
grober
MB Master
OP
OP
andrewcliffe
Active Member
I didn't receive an email from television (quite probably due to spam filtering or something) so if he can PM me his address I'll post the sensor.
My symptoms was that the engine would die whilst idling when the engine hot. Leaving the engine to cool would allow the engine to restart - however, if it happens whilst you're at a roundabout or traffic lights, its pretty embarrassing and you can't wait 30 mins for things to cool.
The Crank Sensor on the C43 and I'd assume other V8's is at the flywheel end of the engine, on the LHS (if sitting in car) RH if looking into engine bay, about halfway down at the back - changing should only be done with the engine cold - otherwise you'll suffer severe burns. Its a small black sensor about 3/4" wide, 1/2" tall that protrudes about 1" from the block and has a pair of wires leading to it. There is another 1 1/2" of sensor which goes through the bellhousing which you can't see. I can take photos if needed.
My symptoms was that the engine would die whilst idling when the engine hot. Leaving the engine to cool would allow the engine to restart - however, if it happens whilst you're at a roundabout or traffic lights, its pretty embarrassing and you can't wait 30 mins for things to cool.
The Crank Sensor on the C43 and I'd assume other V8's is at the flywheel end of the engine, on the LHS (if sitting in car) RH if looking into engine bay, about halfway down at the back - changing should only be done with the engine cold - otherwise you'll suffer severe burns. Its a small black sensor about 3/4" wide, 1/2" tall that protrudes about 1" from the block and has a pair of wires leading to it. There is another 1 1/2" of sensor which goes through the bellhousing which you can't see. I can take photos if needed.
SG CL500
Active Member
grober has beaten me to it mine's the same (or at least close enough for a photo of what one looks like)
television
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
I have PM'd you both with the offer of the old ones, it would be nice to have an answer as to what goes wrong
grober
MB Master
poor connections?
However since its such a vital component and can fail intermittently I would probably always replace it at the first hint of trouble. Thats assuming you can pin it down to that in the first place.
I will be interested in the results of your "post mortem"
I did read somewhere that sometimes the problem is down to corroded pins on the connector/cable making a poor connection. Clean them up and seal them up and voila.
However since its such a vital component and can fail intermittently I would probably always replace it at the first hint of trouble. Thats assuming you can pin it down to that in the first place. I will be interested in the results of your "post mortem"
television
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
Thank to Andrew and SG I now have both, the are both the same part and they both measure 9.3kΩ
Thats a lot of wire and turns if the coils are intact. I will slice one open on the band saw, if it is one large winding, then it will be the same fault as the average ign coil fault, where the car is OK for 5 mins and the spark gets weaker and weaker till the engine stops, with just one short turn putting it out of action, and this cannot be measured cold.
If the coil is intact it would mean current flowing in the order of 0.13 micro amp, and that cant be right.
I will post back later
Thats a lot of wire and turns if the coils are intact. I will slice one open on the band saw, if it is one large winding, then it will be the same fault as the average ign coil fault, where the car is OK for 5 mins and the spark gets weaker and weaker till the engine stops, with just one short turn putting it out of action, and this cannot be measured cold.
If the coil is intact it would mean current flowing in the order of 0.13 micro amp, and that cant be right.
I will post back later
