drmacf
Active Member
Sorry, typoWhat is a Ford 500
It's a Fiat 500-Mini
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Sorry, typoWhat is a Ford 500
Genuine or pattern part?Price for the subframe seems a bit high?
Eurosubframes do these for around £450 delivered on ebay last I looked.
Genuine or pattern part?
I have emailed quite a few, same standard response 'Servicing'. Deep inside don't want to ask any more, just get on with it, pay up and plan for the futureWhy dont you try one of the dealers in my link above whom have done this job foc ?
Dinitrol is what I use inside and outside my CLK subframeAdvise for the future:
Once I do get it repaired and sorted I still won't have confidence that the car won't fall apart, specially on the highway.
So for my peace of mind I plan to do the following
1)- Get it checked again, by another garage, MSL in Birmingham springs to mind
2) -Do something about preventing rust or corrosion, in the future. I googled it and ACF -50 comes to mind. Not sure if spraying this one would make a huge difference.
3) Seek professional help? Another one are Rustbusters in Spalding, PE11. They seem to do the whole thing but seem pretty expensive. At least may prevent the car falling apart on the M6 in 6 years time. Has anyone used them in the past? Web site link cut and pasted below
Kind regards
Mel
is RUSTBUSTERS FULL HOT FOG CORROLAN RUST PROOFING SERVICE
The cost of the repair of any older car should be commensurate with its market value and likely life remaining - in extremis this means writing it off--unless the car model is rare in most cases this means going outside the MB dealer network for servicing and parts to reputable aftermarket firms catering for this market. If longer term body corrosion looms large in your mind then something from the VAG stable might suit you better in the future?Advise for the future:
Once I do get it repaired and sorted I still won't have confidence that the car won't fall apart, specially on the highway.
So for my peace of mind I plan to do the following
1)- Get it checked again, by another garage, MSL in Birmingham springs to mind
2) -Do something about preventing rust or corrosion, in the future. I googled it and ACF -50 comes to mind. Not sure if spraying this one would make a huge difference.
3) Seek professional help? Another one are Rustbusters in Spalding, PE11. They seem to do the whole thing but seem pretty expensive. At least may prevent the car falling apart on the M6 in 6 years time. Has anyone used them in the past? Web site link cut and pasted below
Kind regards
Mel
is RUSTBUSTERS FULL HOT FOG CORROLAN RUST PROOFING SERVICE
Thanks, did you do it yourself, or got a mechanic to do it? Does it work? Someone said that MB rusts from the inside?Dinitrol is what I use inside and outside my CLK subframe
The car so far has been as good as gold. I'm attached to it as well. My maths says that to buy another car would easily cost another 5-10K. So why not invest 2-3K more and hope this lasts for another 10 years?The cost of the repair of any older car should be commensurate with its market value and likely life remaining - in extremis this means writing it off--unless the car model is rare in most cases this means going outside the MB dealer network for servicing and parts to reputable aftermarket firms catering for this market. If longer term body corrosion looms large in your mind then something from the VAG stable might suit you better in the future?
One thing you could do ( or get the mechanic to do) is that before the new subframe is fitted, get it sprayed inside ( especially inside) and out with a good protective coating. There are several good coating available for this if you google it. I remember once upon a time, there was a long flexible probe, with a type of head on it, that resembled the head on a drain jetter, and it sprayed literally in every direction.....if you drilled a small hole in a 25 ltr container, and inserted it, every square inch internally would be covered. At the time, we used a protective wax. It was liquid in form , but hardened enough to form a thick protective coating.Thanks to all who responded, it really helped me.
Just an update, from my side. MB Lincoln have basically said to pay up for the replacement and get the job done. When I refused, they have stopped replying to my emails.
The car is currently at an Indy Garage, who have ordered the sub frame. No exact time frame has been given on when it would arrive and the job be done. Costs wise it will look like the subframe is 695 + vat and labor around 600 quid. Will be out of pocket for about 1500-1700. Tough luck, but I like this car, so will hang to it.
Currently renting out a Ford 500 from Euro Car, hope its sub frame is intact!
After this is all over, I would make a complaint to the DVSA. Not sure if it’s worth but just for the record would write to them. I would also open a FB page about this MB C Class or Corrosion class and collate all the information available, both on line and on MB forums. I have come across at least 100 posts, some going back to 2004! So there is something out there. At the least, if people are informed, then they might pay more attention to details, such as getting the mechanic to check the underside more vigorously as well as taking anti rust measures. Something which in hindsight I would have done.
Another thought I had, was to get the car up on a ramp and spray the underneath with ACF 50. I have been warned not to use it on the brake pads and liners. About the engine, I could spray some on a piece of cloth and lightly wipe it around. Hope this is the right way as I can no longer rely on the MB brand name.
Thanks once again
Have a lovely bank holiday weekend
Mel
I use the extended spray tube (2-3 feet) to get inside with all the drains holes, yes I did it myself .Thanks, did you do it yourself, or got a mechanic to do it? Does it work? Someone said that MB rusts from the inside?
Ah so the subframe does have drain holes. Someone on here suggested that the frame was totally enclosed so that internal treatment wasn't possible, which I found hard to believe. When dealing with old box section type car components, I've always had them acid dipped which clears out any internal rust and then electrophoretic dipped and powder coated inside and out. If not doing a full restoration your solution seems the best though W1ghty.I use the extended spray tube (2-3 feet) to get inside with all the drains holes, yes I did it myself .
I actually do it every couple of years . Time will tell if it helps
Mine is the best diy attempt cost wise to help me sleep and feeling like I’m helping . I am not 100% though that all the drain holes allow total spray coverage inside the subframe , I don’t know what internal sealed sections exist .Ah so the subframe does have drain holes. Someone on here suggested that the frame was totally enclosed so that internal treatment wasn't possible, which I found hard to believe. When dealing with old box section type car components, I've always had them acid dipped which clears out any internal rust and then electrophoretic dipped and powder coated inside and out. If not doing a full restoration your solution seems the best though W1ghty.
I use the extended spray tube (2-3 feet) to get inside with all the drains holes, yes I did it myself .
I actually do it every couple of years . Time will tell if it helps
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