Corroded rear subframe

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Price for the subframe seems a bit high?

Eurosubframes do these for around £450 delivered on ebay last I looked.
 
Another response from some MB Customer Service-- cut and pasted below

Thank you for contacting Mercedes-Benz Customer Service. As I do not have a contact number for you on file, I am following up with you in writing.

I was deeply sorry to learn that your car has subframe corrosion. Mercedes-Benz provides a 30-year Anti-Perforation warranty. This warranty is specifically intended to provide assistance and protection should your vehicle develop perforation corrosion. This is a form of corrosion that develops from inside the vehicle itself, starting in a hollow section or cavity and continuing through to the outer layers leading to perforation of the exterior sheet metal.
Please note that this warranty is not applicable in respect of the occurrence of any other form of corrosion. Therefore, surface corrosion caused by any external influence, such as stone chips or precipitation, is specifically excluded.
In addition, for this warranty to be applicable the vehicle must have a complete service history with Mercedes-Benz. Therefore, the vehicle must have been serviced in accordance with our recommendations by a Mercedes-Benz Retailer. Please note the correct service intervals for your car is once every 12 months, or once every 15500 miles, whichever comes first, and the services must be completed by Mercedes-Benz, not a third party.
Our records show your car has not been serviced by Mercedes-Benz since 2013 and therefore void any applicable warranties.
I apologise if I have not matched your expectations regarding the complaint, you have raised and if you wish to escalate further, I advise you seek council from the Motor Ombudsman. I have included their contact details below for your own records.
Should you have any other requirements please do not hesitate to contact us.
If you are unhappy with this final decision or feel this matter is unresolved, you can seek advice with a CTSI Certified Alternative Dispute Resolution provider, including The Motor Ombudsman who may be able to resolve your complaint in appropriate circumstances. Details can be found at www.themotorombudsman.org, or alternatively their telephone number is 0345 241 3008 selecting option


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Forget the Ombudsman, I intend to write directly to the DVSA. Has anyone written to them? Is thee any specific department or person?
Also, are there any magazines, or news papers, that may take this up as a safety re-call issue?
Kind regards

Mel
 
Why dont you try one of the dealers in my link above whom have done this job foc ?
 
Why dont you try one of the dealers in my link above whom have done this job foc ?
I have emailed quite a few, same standard response 'Servicing'. Deep inside don't want to ask any more, just get on with it, pay up and plan for the future
 
Advise for the future:
Once I do get it repaired and sorted I still won't have confidence that the car won't fall apart, specially on the highway.

So for my peace of mind I plan to do the following
1)- Get it checked again, by another garage, MSL in Birmingham springs to mind
2) -Do something about preventing rust or corrosion, in the future. I googled it and ACF -50 comes to mind. Not sure if spraying this one would make a huge difference.
3) Seek professional help? Another one are Rustbusters in Spalding, PE11. They seem to do the whole thing but seem pretty expensive. At least may prevent the car falling apart on the M6 in 6 years time. Has anyone used them in the past? Web site link cut and pasted below
Kind regards

Mel


is RUSTBUSTERS FULL HOT FOG CORROLAN RUST PROOFING SERVICE
 
Advise for the future:
Once I do get it repaired and sorted I still won't have confidence that the car won't fall apart, specially on the highway.

So for my peace of mind I plan to do the following
1)- Get it checked again, by another garage, MSL in Birmingham springs to mind
2) -Do something about preventing rust or corrosion, in the future. I googled it and ACF -50 comes to mind. Not sure if spraying this one would make a huge difference.
3) Seek professional help? Another one are Rustbusters in Spalding, PE11. They seem to do the whole thing but seem pretty expensive. At least may prevent the car falling apart on the M6 in 6 years time. Has anyone used them in the past? Web site link cut and pasted below
Kind regards

Mel


is RUSTBUSTERS FULL HOT FOG CORROLAN RUST PROOFING SERVICE
Dinitrol is what I use inside and outside my CLK subframe
 
Advise for the future:
Once I do get it repaired and sorted I still won't have confidence that the car won't fall apart, specially on the highway.

So for my peace of mind I plan to do the following
1)- Get it checked again, by another garage, MSL in Birmingham springs to mind
2) -Do something about preventing rust or corrosion, in the future. I googled it and ACF -50 comes to mind. Not sure if spraying this one would make a huge difference.
3) Seek professional help? Another one are Rustbusters in Spalding, PE11. They seem to do the whole thing but seem pretty expensive. At least may prevent the car falling apart on the M6 in 6 years time. Has anyone used them in the past? Web site link cut and pasted below
Kind regards

Mel


is RUSTBUSTERS FULL HOT FOG CORROLAN RUST PROOFING SERVICE
The cost of the repair of any older car should be commensurate with its market value and likely life remaining - in extremis this means writing it off--unless the car model is rare in most cases this means going outside the MB dealer network for servicing and parts to reputable aftermarket firms catering for this market. If longer term body corrosion looms large in your mind then something from the VAG stable might suit you better in the future?
 
Just had mine done......bought powder coated frame from eurosubframes in Ireland - £500 + £20 delivery, Got it fitted for £200 including bolts.
The bushes are fitted too, the garage were quite impressed with the frame.
 
^^^ Surface Powder coating is fine but some of the corrosion starts from the inside , so the hollow parts need to be dipped/sprayed with something to prevent rust.

P.S well done for getting it fitted for £200 !! 👍
 
Dinitrol is what I use inside and outside my CLK subframe
Thanks, did you do it yourself, or got a mechanic to do it? Does it work? Someone said that MB rusts from the inside?
 
The cost of the repair of any older car should be commensurate with its market value and likely life remaining - in extremis this means writing it off--unless the car model is rare in most cases this means going outside the MB dealer network for servicing and parts to reputable aftermarket firms catering for this market. If longer term body corrosion looms large in your mind then something from the VAG stable might suit you better in the future?
The car so far has been as good as gold:). I'm attached to it as well. My maths says that to buy another car would easily cost another 5-10K. So why not invest 2-3K more and hope this lasts for another 10 years?
So after I repair the sub frames and the brake pipe , I then go for the anti rust treatment to the whole chassis. That should hopefully keep the rust away
The engine seems fine, touchwood. The ac does play up at times, but just had the Fiat 500 over the weekend and it was pidly compared to the MB
 
Thanks to all who responded, it really helped me.

Just an update, from my side. MB Lincoln have basically said to pay up for the replacement and get the job done. When I refused, they have stopped replying to my emails.

The car is currently at an Indy Garage, who have ordered the sub frame. No exact time frame has been given on when it would arrive and the job be done. Costs wise it will look like the subframe is 695 + vat and labor around 600 quid. Will be out of pocket for about 1500-1700. Tough luck, but I like this car, so will hang to it.
Currently renting out a Ford 500 from Euro Car, hope its sub frame is intact!

After this is all over, I would make a complaint to the DVSA. Not sure if it’s worth but just for the record would write to them. I would also open a FB page about this MB C Class or Corrosion class and collate all the information available, both on line and on MB forums. I have come across at least 100 posts, some going back to 2004! So there is something out there. At the least, if people are informed, then they might pay more attention to details, such as getting the mechanic to check the underside more vigorously as well as taking anti rust measures. Something which in hindsight I would have done.

Another thought I had, was to get the car up on a ramp and spray the underneath with ACF 50. I have been warned not to use it on the brake pads and liners. About the engine, I could spray some on a piece of cloth and lightly wipe it around. Hope this is the right way as I can no longer rely on the MB brand name.

Thanks once again

Have a lovely bank holiday weekend



Mel
One thing you could do ( or get the mechanic to do) is that before the new subframe is fitted, get it sprayed inside ( especially inside) and out with a good protective coating. There are several good coating available for this if you google it. I remember once upon a time, there was a long flexible probe, with a type of head on it, that resembled the head on a drain jetter, and it sprayed literally in every direction.....if you drilled a small hole in a 25 ltr container, and inserted it, every square inch internally would be covered. At the time, we used a protective wax. It was liquid in form , but hardened enough to form a thick protective coating.
 
Thanks, did you do it yourself, or got a mechanic to do it? Does it work? Someone said that MB rusts from the inside?
I use the extended spray tube (2-3 feet) to get inside with all the drains holes, yes I did it myself .
I actually do it every couple of years . Time will tell if it helps
 
I use the extended spray tube (2-3 feet) to get inside with all the drains holes, yes I did it myself .
I actually do it every couple of years . Time will tell if it helps
Ah so the subframe does have drain holes. Someone on here suggested that the frame was totally enclosed so that internal treatment wasn't possible, which I found hard to believe. When dealing with old box section type car components, I've always had them acid dipped which clears out any internal rust and then electrophoretic dipped and powder coated inside and out. If not doing a full restoration your solution seems the best though W1ghty.
 
Ah so the subframe does have drain holes. Someone on here suggested that the frame was totally enclosed so that internal treatment wasn't possible, which I found hard to believe. When dealing with old box section type car components, I've always had them acid dipped which clears out any internal rust and then electrophoretic dipped and powder coated inside and out. If not doing a full restoration your solution seems the best though W1ghty.
Mine is the best diy attempt cost wise to help me sleep and feeling like I’m helping . I am not 100% though that all the drain holes allow total spray coverage inside the subframe , I don’t know what internal sealed sections exist .
 
Personally I wouldn't worry too much about adding too much extra protection unless you live near the sea or drive in salt water a lot. Sometimes spraying stuff up holes can lead to water etc being trapped and that would be worse than not having any extra protection! Just check the drain holes regularly. Now you know rust may be an issue, you will probably inspect the car with more gusto every year and spot it elsewhere early.
I don't think your subframe is going to be the cause of problems going forward! Keep wheel arches and any other surfaces clean every few months (water soaks into the mud and starts corrosion given half a chance) and treat any chips or surface corrosion as you see it. Its easy when the chips are small - just a touch up pen.

Keep an a eye on other hidden areas where water might get in eg door seals, boot seals and keep all drains and channels clean. Some use a quick spray of silicone grease on and around any rubber. Keeps it supple and also is hydrophobic so will repel water. Just make sure its dry first or it may repel the water back under the rubber seal!
 
I use the extended spray tube (2-3 feet) to get inside with all the drains holes, yes I did it myself .
I actually do it every couple of years . Time will tell if it helps

To be precise, time will only tell if it didn't help...... ;)
 

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