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Diff Filler Plug. Will not budge.

LAST RESORT MEASURE:
some time back I was changing the timing belt of my faithfull Clio and two miserable 8 mm screws where glued stiff and would not budge with any ammount of violence and cursing. I placed a large nut over each and soldered them carefully. They came off so easily as if they where finger tightened! It was the bloody glue that was used by a Renault dealer mechanic that created the situation. I believe the Merc diff plugs also have some sort of glue, so heating may destroy the bondage.

BTW - great post you did on ATF change.
Eurico, Thanks for the THANKS. I don't often get that. My experience of solder is that it is weak and brittle. I am surprised that solder had the strength to take this.

I done a 1 week course on soldering technical in Austin Texas,(work paid for it,) and the key to soldering is heat accross all to be joints, cleanliness and flux. (Flux is the key component) A "Brazing" with a brass rod or maybe a tack weld I could understand.

Maybe 8mm can take a solder join, but not a Diff rusted filler tapered plug. In this case, rust is definately the problem. Not glue.
 
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When I did this on mine, I just used an extender bar - pull like hell, so hard you'll lift the rear up :)
 
Malcolm, I understand this fully from past. But thanks for reminding me. I ordered the tools on UK Tools website yesterday. 18" socket bar and 14mm plug. http://www.uktools.com/

Guy calls me today and said, sorry sir, were out of stock of the 18" socket bar. Will you accept a 24" at no extra cost ? :bannana:

What do you think my reply was ? ;)

You said no thanks,I can wait for the one I ordered :D
 
Eurico, Thanks for the THANKS. I don't often get that. My experience of solder is that it is weak and brittle. I am surprised that solder had the strength to take this.

I done a 1 week course on soldering technical in Austin Texas USA,(work paid for it, year 2001) and the key to soldering is heat accross all to be joints, cleanliness and flux. (Flux is the key component) A "Brazing" with a brass rod or maybe a tack weld I could understand.

Maybe 8mm can take a solder join, but not a Diff rusted filler tapered plug. In this case, rust is definately the problem. Not glue.

Big problem is with the mass of the diff would take all of the heat out of it, to get it up to temperature you would risk damage to the neoprene seals on the input and output shafts
 
Hazet make a tool for this job and is available at dealers BTW.
 
You can buy a suitable tool at most accessory shops. I think I've got two.
 
Job Done.

1/2 inch Breaker bar and 14mm Impact socket arrived today. Reversed car onto ramps. Applied Impact socket, one pull, and an almighty crack. Filler plug loosened. Done same with drain plug, but this did not need as much leverage.

Drained off just short of 1 Ltr. 900 mm. As car was on a slope (rampos) I reckon a little bit ran to the forward end of the diff. I attached the filler neck of the new 1 Ltr oil bottle to a 6 foot length of clear flexi hose, inserted in to the filler plug, put the other end up through the N/S wheel arch, filled from there, via funnel. There was no spillage.

Preffered to do it this way as I hate squeezing them bottles, as you cannot get the angle right or fully empty it.

Under the car, you could see the last of the oil running down the hose into the diff. Finger in hole and it was just about level. I will recheck level in a few days when I get access to a 4 poster.

You were all correct, heavier duty tools required for this job. Thank's again everyone for your advice.
:bannana: :bannana: :bannana:
 
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Rubber hose attached

Rubber hose attached to oil bottle filler, and tools used. (not the ruler) just to show the size of bar used. 24 inch. Original photo showed the full size of the bar, but at almost 800kb, I had to trim the size to upload it.
 
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So pleased it all went well in the end, your nice new tools will come in handy for other jobs.

I must paint up my axle stands, I did the trolley jack last year.

Thanks for posting back :D:D
 
Yaz.
If you filled to the level with the car on ramps it won't be correct as the filler plug is at the nose of the differential. The level will be low when the car is level.
 
I knew the larger bar with better leverage would do it - they're very tight!

Good outcome :)

Will
 
Yaz.
If you filled to the level with the car on ramps it won't be correct as the filler plug is at the nose of the differential. The level will be low when the car is level.
Dieselman, I know, but at least it has 100ml more than before it was drained.

I will buy another bottle tomorrow, going to a supplier on Friday who has a 4 poster, will add then.
 
Yaz.
If you filled to the level with the car on ramps it won't be correct as the filler plug is at the nose of the differential. The level will be low when the car is level.


Only very slightly, many cars lose oil though foaming when the vents are blocked
 
So pleased it all went well in the end, your nice new tools will come in handy for other jobs.

I must paint up my axle stands, I did the trolley jack last year.

Thanks for posting back :D:D
Television, Those are new ramps I bought from "Screwfix" online. I've been away from the "trade" now 10 yrs, and I really miss access to workshop facilities, so these ramps are really useful to me. :bannana:
 

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