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diy paint touch up?

bigyank

Active Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2007
Messages
137
Location
South Sheffield / Derbyshire
Car
E320 sport W211
Hi Folks -

Quicky question time:

On a 89 SEC in smoke silver, how difficult is it to repair chips in the laquer top coat and small rust spots?
I will take it in to body shop for some major bits, but I wanted to do some small areas myself if possible to save some cash and also feel like I did some of it!
Any pointers, links to good online guides or advice would be much appreciated. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow!
 
Last edited:
If it really is the top lacquer coat only then the repair is easy.
Ensure there is no flaking lacquer then wipe with a cloth dampened with alcohol.
Either buy the lacquer as a touch up stick or spray can. If touch up stick then use a very sparing amount to fill the chip, if using a can spray some into the lid and then using either a fine artists brush or toothpick fill the chip.

Leave to dry fully. If there is any proud of the surface sand it down with very fine wet and dry aper then polish back to a shine.
 
I've got to say, unless you're very proficient and experienced in this aspect I'd leave well alone. The reason I say this is cars that have DIY touch ups invariably look awful, and stand out a mile.

This always sets alarm bells ringing come resale - people will assume you've skimped on the car as a whole and will tread much more carefully.

If the rust needs doing, I'd save up a bit more and pay for a pro job, it'll look much better and add value to the car in the long run.

As Dieselman has mentioned, the laqcuer shouldn't be too hard to repair but if there's other stuff that needs doing I'd just get the lot done at once ;)

Looking forward to the pics :)

Will
 
The touch up paints are cellulose based and shrink when they dry. With metallics it is best to apply with a with the finest brush or toothpick and leave to dry, then light wipe off with T cut the paint surrounding the hole, do this several times until the paint thickness has built up, when you get to the last coat, leave it for 2 mins to go off and wipe your finger over the top, and smudge it, this will correct the colour that is always too dark when just brushed or dropped in, just leave it over night and wipe the surface again with T cut and you will hardly see it

It is now getting the wrong time of the year to do this as its best done at 20c min, the reason being that it needs to dry quickly, if it hangs around too long drying,the solvents will melt the area surrounding the chip.

When I say wipe with T cut, base coat is as soft as butter and no pressure is needed to wipe the surrounding area clean.

Basecoat is not a finish in itself, but if you try and use the clear top coat, the mark will stand out like a sore thumb so dont try it.


Stupid me just went down to the garage to take a photo of repairs done as above, even with x10 magnification I cant take a picture as you cant see it, I will try in daylight
 

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