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DIY Service help

You sound even older than me, Phil.
Seriously though - I do agree with you.
I have no easy access to "diagnostics", and a cost-effective way of accessing this sort of thing would be really good.

John
 
Can you tell me more about the diagnostic tool please? Does it plug into the lead in the car and then into a laptop or PC? Cost? Meaning of codes? I think it is time to get up to date! Building engines up, rebuilding gear boxes and back axles in the 60s and 70s is out of date experience now!

Bought it off Ebay. Cost £90 ish. SRS light came on and the garage charged £27 to read the code, reset it and said if the fault came back they would investigate further, so I figured the £90 was a decent investment. The software is called Carsoft. I have it hooked up to an old laptop as it needed a serial input, which newer laptops dont seem to have (You can get a usb to serial adapter, not sure how the software would deal with that as you need to state wich port you are using). It came with a 38pin adapter (which the W210 uses), an OBDII connector and a lead to hook it up to a voltmeter.

When you run a test in runs a complete test first and lists the fault codes which can be googled. The faults come in a letter then number format then a short description (mine was something like B1009 Drivers airbag circuit resistance too high). You can then run tests on the individual modules and get a more detailed expalanation.

As mentioned previously you can use it to reset the service intervals and I think you can program the ECU with it as well.

Not played with it too much never seem to have the time. I can try and find the link in my ebay account if you want?

Derek
 
Bought it off Ebay. Cost £90 ish. SRS light came on and the garage charged £27 to read the code, reset it and said if the fault came back they would investigate further, so I figured the £90 was a decent investment. The software is called Carsoft. I have it hooked up to an old laptop as it needed a serial input, which newer laptops dont seem to have (You can get a usb to serial adapter, not sure how the software would deal with that as you need to state wich port you are using). It came with a 38pin adapter (which the W210 uses), an OBDII connector and a lead to hook it up to a voltmeter.

When you run a test in runs a complete test first and lists the fault codes which can be googled. The faults come in a letter then number format then a short description (mine was something like B1009 Drivers airbag circuit resistance too high). You can then run tests on the individual modules and get a more detailed expalanation.

As mentioned previously you can use it to reset the service intervals and I think you can program the ECU with it as well.

Not played with it too much never seem to have the time. I can try and find the link in my ebay account if you want?

Derek
Yes please Derek.
I do have two ports on my laptop, apart from the USB, but not so many pins. One is a PSI for mice, and the other is for printers etc. I will take advice BEFORE buying!
 
You sound even older than me, Phil.
Seriously though - I do agree with you.
I have no easy access to "diagnostics", and a cost-effective way of accessing this sort of thing would be really good.

John

No secret. I am 69. You are as old as you feel!!
 
If you wish to do the spark plugs yourself, get yourself the proper tool to pop the spark plug caps/ boots off or else this job will become very hard and there is the possibility that you will damage the leads and they are expensive to replace.

Also make sure that your socket set has a universal joint and an assortment of small extension bars.

I had a go at this a few weeks ago and it too me approx 2.5 hours start to finish.
Proper tool = 17mm spanner - Noticed Olly had a nice long one doing Howard plugs the other week.

3/8 socket set as well, preferably with a smallish ratchet - too cramped for a standard 1/2 ratchet.
 
Im in London that week. Whats it about is there a link on this forum?

Pity !

There's a thread under the 'Events' section of this website where you'll find out everything .

There's also a 'Meets in Scotland' thread with details of a forthcoming restaurant meet in Stirling .
 
Proper tool = 17mm spanner - Noticed Olly had a nice long one doing Howard plugs the other week.

3/8 socket set as well, preferably with a smallish ratchet - too cramped for a standard 1/2 ratchet.

Its actually a 17mm spanner with a couple of near right angled bends in it - thats what makes it special.

Using a standard 17mm spanner to do this job is really difficult if not near enough impossible on the rear plugs.

Get the correct spanner.
 
Its actually a 17mm spanner with a couple of near right angled bends in it - thats what makes it special.

Using a standard 17mm spanner to do this job is really difficult if not near enough impossible on the rear plugs.

Get the correct spanner.

Not getting this, is it a knuckle joint socket adapter I need or is a specific tool??:confused:
 
Not getting this, is it a knuckle joint socket adapter I need or is a specific tool??:confused:

You need the special spanner here to get the boots off and also if you wish to make the job really easy, the knuckle joint socket.

The knuckle joint socket is not essential ( Ollie uses one as he does this as part of his routine work so needs the best tools for the job), but if you own a merc and wish to do this yourself, you are better off getting a universal joint, and a set of small extension bars of various sizes...very small in length. You can get the type that you can angle a little when the go into the socket...I think they are called wobblys.

That way, you can use these extensions on other jobs aswell :)
 
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Cheers,

Spark plugs been put on the back burner for now, thought I would start with the basics and do the Oil and filter. Took ages to find the filter, at the top of the engine and easy access, not happy about that.:bannana:
Trying to get the sump plug out, not happening. Got a 13mm multi face socket wich is starting to burr the edges of the nut. Will need to check the garage for a 6 face socket and some wd40 or Im in for a world of pain.
 
I'm relieved to hear that it's not just me who has had trouble with sump plugs.
On two out of the last three vehicles I owned - On the first oil change, I was completely unable to release the sump plug.
The Jeep Cherokee needed a Torx wrench into a Torx splined socket in the sump plug.
Tight as Hell !!
In aluminium - I ask you !!
I simply ripped the centre out of it and then removed it with the Barnsley spanner (hammer and cold chisel).
Similarly on the E300TD, the fitter who last fitted the sump plug must have been entered for the "World''s Strongest Man" competition.
Again - I stripped the corners off the hex plug before it would turn.
Another job for the Barnsley spanner.

The funny thing is - I tighten them securely (always use a new copper washer), and next time they come out OK.

As you say, Dazzler 1976, you could be in for some pain.
 
Cheers,

Spark plugs been put on the back burner for now, thought I would start with the basics and do the Oil and filter. Took ages to find the filter, at the top of the engine and easy access, not happy about that.:bannana:
Trying to get the sump plug out, not happening. Got a 13mm multi face socket wich is starting to burr the edges of the nut. Will need to check the garage for a 6 face socket and some wd40 or Im in for a world of pain.

You could always take the easy way out and get a suction oil extractor. Not that expensive and v. useful for a variety of otherwise miserable tasks.

May not be quite as good as a full drain but versus a world of pain.......


http://www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/SumpPumpsOilChangers.html
 
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In many cases the sump plugs will never have been out since they left the factory , due to garages using the suction method .

I've had the same problem with a number of cars and have had to replace a few sump plugs in my time , as above I can always get them back out next time .
 
I'm relieved to hear that it's not just me who has had trouble with sump plugs.
On two out of the last three vehicles I owned - On the first oil change, I was completely unable to release the sump plug.
The Jeep Cherokee needed a Torx wrench into a Torx splined socket in the sump plug.
Tight as Hell !!
In aluminium - I ask you !!
I simply ripped the centre out of it and then removed it with the Barnsley spanner (hammer and cold chisel).
Similarly on the E300TD, the fitter who last fitted the sump plug must have been entered for the "World''s Strongest Man" competition.
Again - I stripped the corners off the hex plug before it would turn.
Another job for the Barnsley spanner.

The funny thing is - I tighten them securely (always use a new copper washer), and next time they come out OK.

As you say, Dazzler 1976, you could be in for some pain.

You are not alone. I never had any problems with the sump plug until....the car went to an indi for its 144k service - a bigish service with ATF change - so I had them change the engine oil and filter as well at the same time. Not too sure what oil they put in but it was like thick goo 6k miles later. Before I changed it I added flushing oil to the engine, ran it for 5 mins as per the instructions - then went to undo the sump plug. WTF? The worlds strongest man had obviously been at my car too. Rounded the edges off the plug with a 13mm socket.....ended up filing it and smashing a 12mm 6 sided socket on to the plug and whacking it off with an impact driver. Just glad that the sump held up.
It was a hot summer day and not what I needed - engine with flushing oil in could not even be driven to garage to put on the ramp.
Never again will I add flushing oil without checking the sump plug first.
 
AND I THOUGHT IT WAS JUST ME !!!!!!!!!

There are moments in this game, when you start to ask yourself ...... Is it me ??

With the Cherokee, it was quite obvious that the sump plug had never been out of the sump. It had always been main-dealer serviced when I bought it, and it must have been drained using the suction method.
The torx splines in the aluminium plug were useless - So soft, they stripped out with very little effort.
Interestingly, the sump plug I bought to replace it was made of steel and had an allen-wrench socket in it - Not a torx.
A much better idea.

One of the dangers in using the hammer and cold-chisel method is whether the thin-wall sump around the drain hole will stand it.
I've held my breath while doing this, but fortunately have always got away with it.
I include this comment as a disclaimer.
I don't want forum members cracking their sumps and blaming me for it.

As for my E300TD .... If you were going to empty it by suction, then where exactly would you suck ?
It's obviously something I have never done.
(I've led a sheltered life).

Johnsco
 
If you do intend to get the suction unit, I use one of these.......its good for the V6 due to the high capacity and also the suction tube is quite long. Due to its size it doesnt take long to empty the sump and is quite quick.

No mess either.
 
Careful with that one needs a DB9 (9 pin serial port) - which it sounds like Phil doesn't have (most modern laptops won't). USB adaptors a very unreliable so best to find a USB version.

Using a USB to serial port adaptor will not achieve all factions and is not recommended. If your laptop has not got a serial port then a purchase of a PCMCIA serial card is recommended.
 

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