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HOWTO: Install COMAND - facelift W208 Cab

Alfie

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May 5, 2004
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Location
Surrey/Cotswolds
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W169 A, W205 C, R172 SLC, W447 vantastic
Detailed below are the steps I took to install COMAND into my
facelifted A208 CLK320 cabriolet.

A short note on the type of COMAND to obtain;
Always, if at all possible get the newest COMAND for your type of
vehicle. The installation will be a lot easier if your unit was designed for
your type of car. I obtained the A208 820 44 89 unit which is the latest
one available for a 208CLK. There are others.

There is a useful article on COMAND installs showing the relevant
COMAND part numbers here;
http://www.ibex.co.uk/mbstuff/Retrofitting Comand.htm

Before starting on this project it is best to obtain all the parts
that you are likely to need.

In addition to your COMAND unit you will need the following;

A recent Teleatlas Navigation disk (www.navshop.com)
Model year 01 update CD if your unit hasnt got it already. (Optional but recommended)
GPS Antennae (I recommend you get the genuine article not a copy)
Parts to make up a C2 connector
Parts to make a C1 connector if you will be adding in a CD changer
soldering iron
Length of wire (only required if you do not have a wire in Pin1 of your A connector).
small hacksaw
Wire cutters
Radio removal keys
Short Phillips screwdriver

Here are the various parts that I ordered;

parts1.JPG

parts2.JPG

parts3.JPG

parts4.JPG


Total cost £87.19 inc VAT

I also bought these for a few quid off of eBay

keys.JPG


I started by removing the Audio10 Cd that I had in the vehicle and the little trinket holder
beneath the unit. The Audio10 come out very easily with the two keys. Disconnect the aerial,
the A, B and C connectors from the unit and completely remove the unit. This leaves just the
trinket holder to remove. Feel behind the trinket holder and there is a plastic lug which clips
onto the underside of the plastic divider between the two din slots. I snapped mine off as it
was a very tight fit.

radioout.JPG


Next we have to remove the plastic divider to make the two din slots one double din size. I used
a junior hacksaw foir this. Take great care not to damage the surrounding trim when you do this.

cutting.JPG


When its done you are left with this;

cutout.JPG


Remove your gear knob otherwise you wont be able to slid the COMAND unit into place.

Next we need to remove the glove box. There are four screws holding this in place. Two on
the top of the inside and two on the bottom of the inside. You will need a short stubby
phillips screwdriver for this. The arrows in the image below point to the location of the upper
screws. The lower ones are beneath the two grey plastic covers.

glovebox1.JPG


Carefully withdraw the glovebox, disconnecting the two electrical connectors from the top as you
withdraw.

gloveboxout.JPG


Ignore the black cable to the right of this picture. I dont know what it is and presumed it to
have been left over from the Alpine unit previously installed.


With the glove box out we can now install the GPS aerial. I cable tied mine onto the top of the
strengthening bar that runs across the car behind the glove box. It is possible to just about
get your hand up higher than this to affix the receiver to the underside of the dash but it
isn't really worth the bother. My unit regularly picks up seven satellites with the receiver where
it is. Make sure you fix the receiver firmly in place. I used a couple of those outdoor sticky
fixer things and cable ties. Route the cable back down through into the rear of where the COMAND
will sit. If like me you have the GPS extension cable which converts the connector from the co-ax
type to the type that fits the COMAND then you will need to carefully store this excess cable
somewhere behind the COMAND. Make sure there are no metal objects obstructing the receiver as this
will severely affect satellite reception. Do not replace the glove box yet.

We now need to make up our C2 connector.Full Pin assignments can be found
here; http://users.pandora.be/miata/documents/comand/COMAND_Pin_Layout.doc
With a diagram showing the connectors
here; http://users.pandora.be/miata/documents/comand/Comand_Anschlusplan.jpg

Here is my C2 connector
C2.JPG


I used the pins i'd ordered and crimped and soldered pins 6,8,9 and 10. I then assembled the C2
connector by sliding the one part into the other.

My car had a C connector with the two CANBUS wires connected to pins 1 and 2. On my car these
are coloured Black and Black/White. Cut both these off, noting which one was in which position.
On mine the Black one was in pin 2 of the C plug (Canbus LO) and the Black/white one was in
pin 1 of the C plug (Canbus HI). Solder the black wire to pin 8 of the new C2 connector. Solder
the black/white wire to pin 9 of the C2 connector. If you have any other wires in your C connector
then you can either just leave them connected on the C plug which we will leave in behind the unit
or you can investigate where they go on the C1 / C2 connector. I soldered a wire to my C2 pin10 so
that I can later add a CD changer. C2 pin 10 is required for this. I also soldered a wire to C2
pin 6. this is required for the speed pulse. Without it your COMAND wont update your position as
you drive. If you have a wire in pin 1 of your A connector, then you need to bridge that wire across
to pin 6 of the C2 connector so that both C2 pin6 and A pin 1 are connected to that wire. If (like me)
you do not have a wire in A plug pin 1 then you are going to have to tap into the speed pulse wire
which is located within the passenger side (on RHD cars) sill.

Only perform this next section if you DONT have a wire connected to Pin 1 of the A plug.

Remove the sill by gently prising it up. Pull a short section of the door pillar trim off and remove
the plastic trim from the footwell (secured with a single screw and two clips). This will expose
a mass of wiring which disappears into the black plastic trunking. Open up the trunking.

Next we need to locate the speed pulse wire. On my car this is coloured green/black and was connected
to a large blue connector;

sploom.JPG


Next we need to expose some of the copper in this wire and connect a length of new cable to it. I twisted
mine on and soldered it. Mask this joint up and route the cable back up the side of the footwell,
across and behind the glove box to the rear of the COMAND. Replace all the footwell and Sill trim in the
correct order.

Replace the glove box.

Next we need to solder this new wire to our A plug pin 1 / C2 pin 6 bridge. Mask all soldered joints
to prevent grounding.

Next we insert plug A, plug B and our new C2 connector. Note we do not use C1 unless we have a CD
changer. I'll cover that another time when I've installed mine!

With these connectors in place, plug your antennae in to the rear of the COMAND. Ditto the aerial.

Check that you have all joints properly masked and secure. Carefully slide the COMAND into the
DIN hole in your dash, ensuring that no cables are snagged.

Switch on your unit and insert your Navigation disk. Your unit should then start searching for satellites.
It can take up to fifteen minutes to find them. Press the MAP button and you should see how many the
unit has found. If after a while it hasn't found any, then you either have a faulty Antennae (I did!),
not connected the antennae properly or your COMAND is faulty! Start by checking your Antennae.

If when you drive with the map displayed, your position does not alter as you drive, then your speed
pulse is not working. Check all connections.

COMAND.JPG


Once you are happy with the install, you need to take a trip to your local dealership to get your
COMAND enabled for use with your instrument cluster if you have a facelifted car. This step is not
necessary to use the COMAND it just completes the job properly.

Acknowledments to SilverSaloon and Flyer for their help, encouragement and guidance.
 

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