intake manifolds, oil cooler seals

[unclebuck]

Update:

The info from Wis is correct, stage 1:20nm. Stage 2: 60 degrees turn.

So looks like the turbo is going back on today, just grabbed the bolts and had the torque settings confirmed by the merc techs.

 

[unclebuck]

I am thinking to take the fuel pump relay/fuse out so i can just crank it over 4 or 5 times to get oil into the turbo.

 

[unclebuck]

Update:

Its all back in!! hurahh!!

new turbo is in, all new gaskets and bolts, EGR valve has a new seal also, egr pipe new bolts and gaskets.

Everything is torqued to the WIS info i got which was confirmed at the merc dealers ( many thanks for that). The new Bat Wing is installed and fitted like a glove so very happy with that.

Having some food then pull the fuel pump relay and try turning the car over a couple of times to get oil pressure to the turbo and then fire it up and take it for a gentle run.

Fingers crossed it doesn't blow up eh!!

UB

 

[unclebuck]

Update:

With everything fitted i removed the fuel pump relay and cranked it over 5 times, put the relay back in and let it idle for 5 mins.

Took it out for a run and unfortunately it went into limp mode again, the same error p0299, so there has to be another leak somewhere, it can't or shouldnt be the new turbo, so as it is having an oil change shortly it can also have the boost leak smoke test as well.

I checked the front intercooler pipes before and they were fine, so smoke test it is.

Even after cleaning the code and taking it for another run it went into limp mode again.

I can't seem to catch a break on this i may just buy the two intercooler pipes anyway, takes them off the list.

Also do the swirl flap resistor and check it then, knowing my luck.. everything will have to come off anyway.

UB

 

[TeddyRuxpin]

Edit: Nevermind!

 

[unclebuck]

Todays Update:

The car is going into my local mech i always use, all my work is good no issues there, he is going to do a pressured smoke test to see whats going on, while there its getting its A-service, oil and filters etc.

Not stessing about it now, its probably going to be an easy find and then a bugger to fix I have all the front seals for the throttle flap pipe assembly so I think i will change them tomorrow and also fit the new boost pressure sensor, after fitting those its either the intercooler pipes, or the intercooler has a hole in it or....... something else!

Still gotta do the steering pump then thats it.

It will be like a new car after all this is done!

@TeddyRuxpin No problems

 

[unclebuck]

Update:

Car was dropped off for me, smoke pressure test next week to see where its leaking ( fkn pipes), also an "A" service while its there.

No updates for a while and I think im going to have a little break until i shake this crayy covid off.

Have fun in the meantime

UB

 

[unclebuck]

Update:

Finally on the other side of the covid crap still as rough as a rusty bag of spanners.

Spoke with the mech today, They can't get to the bottom of the issue, fitted new boost pressure sensor and check over the entire vaccum system and no leaks anywhere.

It still goes into limp with the p0299 code.

Options:

I am going to fit another new exhaust back pressure sensor, also a new egr valve.

Before I pull everything off I am going to do the 4.7k resistor mod and take it for a quick blip up and down the local runway
If it behaves and doesnt go into limp mode then it means i have to take everything off, celan the intake manifolds out, fit the new swirl arms and fit the new swirl flap motor i have got here and do the oil cooler seals.

not going to let it beat me thats for sure.

Thats about it really.

UB

 

[TeddyRuxpin]

Get well soon mate

 

[unclebuck]

Update:

Had some advice on what the probable issue is. The one thing i did'nt change while the turbo was off is the swirl flap motor, the reason was that i was able to manually move the link arms in both directions fully which made me think all is well there , no sticking, no looseness and the motor would be fine.

More than likely it is the motor and it needs changing, so I will be collecting the car late tuesday as its my end of quarantine ( yay!!) then hopefully it will be clear and dry on the weekend for me to sort it out as i have the motor and replacement clips here already.

If it is clear and dry I will try my best to get as many pics etc as i go.

UB

 

[MrGreedy]

Best of luck, but do try the resistor mod and jam your flaps open first in my view.

Seeing as plenty of people use that for bypassing faulty swirl flap motor without issue, and basically without causing any visible difference in smoke, I'm currently a bit sceptical that your issue is only the flap motor.

Sorry if you know this (I bet you do); my understanding of the motor (flaps) is that they are there to close at lower revs and introduce more turbulence in the intake air to get better mixing/combustion. If the flaps are jammed open and resistor mod applied, this should only cause a tiny increase in low rev spotting and/or HC values in the exhaust. It should not cause highly visible exhaust smoke nor throw error codes.

Just my guess and I hope swapping the motor over sorted this out.

Glad to hear you're on the mend

 

[W1ghty]

Best of luck, but do try the resistor mod and jam your flaps open first in my view.

Seeing as plenty of people use that for bypassing faulty swirl flap motor without issue, and basically without causing any visible difference in smoke, I'm currently a bit sceptical that your issue is only the flap motor.

Sorry if you know this (I bet you do); my understanding of the motor (flaps) is that they are there to close at lower revs and introduce more turbulence in the intake air to get better mixing/combustion. If the flaps are jammed open and resistor mod applied, this should only cause a tiny increase in low rev spotting and/or HC values in the exhaust. It should not cause highly visible exhaust smoke nor throw error codes.

Just my guess and I hope swapping the motor over sorted this out.

Glad to hear you're on the mend

I’ve probably had the resistor in for 2+ years with no issues at all .

 

[unclebuck]

Best of luck, but do try the resistor mod and jam your flaps open first in my view.

Seeing as plenty of people use that for bypassing faulty swirl flap motor without issue, and basically without causing any visible difference in smoke, I'm currently a bit sceptical that your issue is only the flap motor.

Sorry if you know this (I bet you do); my understanding of the motor (flaps) is that they are there to close at lower revs and introduce more turbulence in the intake air to get better mixing/combustion. If the flaps are jammed open and resistor mod applied, this should only cause a tiny increase in low rev spotting and/or HC values in the exhaust. It should not cause highly visible exhaust smoke nor throw error codes.

Just my guess and I hope swapping the motor over sorted this out.

Glad to hear you're on the mend

Im sorry but i got to "jam your flaps open" and spat my tea everywhere... its the idiot in me

 

[Larkone]

+1 for the resistor fix, no issues in mine and passes MOT with good results.

 

[unclebuck]

I have got everything ready here, swirl flap motor, replacement clips, I will check the fuse "44" on tuesday. Hopefully all will be good !!

 

[W1ghty]

I have got everything ready here, swirl flap motor, replacement clips, I will check the fuse "44" on tuesday. Hopefully all will be good !!

Just thinking aloud buddy , if you try the resistor fix first and it works , won’t that tell you that there is no fault with the turbo and that the fault lies with the swirl motor/flaps ?
If you replace the swirl motor and you still get codes , how will you know if it’s the turbo or a sticking swirl flap in the manifold ?

 

[unclebuck]

Just thinking aloud buddy , if you try the resistor fix first and it works , won’t that tell you that there is no fault with the turbo and that the fault lies with the swirl motor/flaps ?
If you replace the swirl motor and you still get codes , how will you know if it’s the turbo or a sticking swirl flap in the manifold ?

Will do the resistor check first most definately, I am hoping thats all it is as I am so far down the rabbit hole. When i moved the link arms on the siwrl flaps there was not even a bit of resistance or sticking anywhere, doesn't mean they were closing all the way as there is no way to know if they are at their closing point.

If need be and I have to bite the bullet I have everything here for taking the whole lot off, cleaning etc and putting back together.

Just wish I had done it through the warmer months! Really wish I had a garage

UB

 

[unclebuck]

Update time:

The resistor bypass did nothing, still went into limp mode, took the maf off and checked the turbo, it seems a little loose, the side to side movement may be too much, I am no expert but it is going back to the supplier to be inspected. It may be perfectly ok it may not be but I am prepared to have it checked over, there is no damage to the impellar vanes or marks in the bore, it just seems a little too loose.

I pulled the swirl flap motor today and opened it, nothing, no oil in there no damage it is ok.

While i had everything off i checked the swirl flap arms, holding the link arm i moved them and there is slop in them, so they need replacing.

I pulled the intercooler pipe and resonator again, i am changing the seals on them, also the other side, The throttle assemply on the front with the egr pipe will come off tomorrow after work.

I will be draining the manifolds of coolant and have disconnected quite a lot on the top of the engine and put the bolts back into the holes they came out of so I know where everything is.

With the swirl flap arms being loose due to wear I have decided to take everything off and service it all ( should have done it in the beginning)

Actions this week:

Drain coolant from inlet manifolds
Remove front throttle flap and pipes to clean and replace all seals
Remove drivers side intercooler pipe ( right side with resonator removed already)
Remove neccesary items on top of engine to remove inlet manifolds

Clean inlet manifolds and replace swirl flap arms with new aluminium arms
Clean engine area
Replace oil cooler seals and fit all new bolts

Put everything back toger and all in the right place ( hopefully)!!

Once its all done I will be taking it to Avantguarde Mercedes in Clevedon for a shakedown ( if it still goes into P0299 limp mode they will be the best people to check it over for me)

Keep an eye out for updates as it goes along.

UB

 

[unclebuck]

Update time:

Ladies and Gentlemen I give you Sneaky Mac'sneaky bast*rd pipe. This son of a bit*h is the king of sneaky hide and seek. I decided to take the pipe off just now while taking the throttle flap and egr pipe assy off.

Now if you remember I cleaned and inspected the intercooler pipes not too long ago with no issues found, lots of squeezing and twists etc.

So I am stood there on the drive cleaning the pipe thinking nothing off it and it magically appears as the outer skin tears away.

3 inch tear in the pipe and also a small hole further up the pipe.

I have to admit I stood there with an almighty big fkn grin on my face for the fact i finally found the bloody leak, disheartened that the pressure test didnt find it.... might have to have a word with the mech.

I am just putting in an order for two new intercooler pipes, might as well just replace them both, I think that the turbo is fine, the oil pressure takes away that little looseness.

Anyway, I am officially a happy bunny and am going to spend tomorrow finishing off cleaning things up and refitting the parts I have taken off with all the new seals band bolts i have got.

@W1ghty how about that then???? fkn sneaky pipe...

 

[MrGreedy]

Fingers crossed this sorts it UB. Glad it should be a fairly inexpensive fix in the end if this does it