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Mercedes W114 250 Coupe - help!

Needless to say in a flash of inspiration I found the grinder tool. Straight off with the front bumper strengthener so all these bits can be rust repaired and proofed too.

The engine is of course an M116 and Druk has already counselled me that the sump pan will be an issue on the original sub-frames. I wonder if a sump pan from an R107 lump before the sub-frame alterations would solve that issue? (Alteration of subframe not possible under construction and use regs for good reason and later R107 subframes with the correct shape for the later sump pans are into rocking horse territory).

Thanks Graeme, the D jet stuff is entirely in keeping with the flow of this thread, if it helps someone else thinking of or doing a W114 restoration, great! For this weekend however, V8 only to keep focus (which I am rapidly losing!).
 
The absence of cake today would appear to be a flaw in that otherwise sound advice!
 
Go and buy some cake Charles. Having looked at the M116 on Google Images it looks like you may be in luck as far as the crossmember is concerned. If your sump looks like this...

 
Going for cake. I have banged my head twice trying to remove the one remaining bolt left from the drop link bolted into the anti roll bar (so it moves as you apply torque and if you apply too much you end up hitting your head on the wheel arch).

That and the callipers (I ended up calling them something else beginning with c) are held on by two bolts onto which no spanner or socket will fit because both are protected by bent over metal that only the finest of sockets which I don't possess can get between.

I need a ramp too.

Let's see what the farm shop has got.
 
Emergency cake (Chocolate Orange) is starting to work, at an initially high dosage.
 
I've tried to translate it with the usual tools but without success.:wallbash:
 
Re Headlining. Is it possible to detach at two edges only (leaving front and rear intact) thus making refitting easier? An old trick I heard of for refitting headlining is to place a kettle of boiled water in the cabin after refitting and close the doors and windows and allow the headlining to reshape itself.

Re Caliper bolts. Is there access enough to knock them loose with a cold cut chisel? If one can be released then the other can sometimes be persuaded to relinquish its thread hold by tapping the caliper around it in the appropriate direction.
 
Check the bolts aren't actually fitted with lock-tabs? Knock them flat with a screwdriver.





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I wonder if they typed that on an Alpina typewriter? Google doesn't seem to like that, where's that Marvin fellow when you need him?

Charles, I owe you a favour so I will translate this for you on Tuesday when I have some free time. Is that ok or do you need it earlier?
 
Matt - that's very kind, there is no hurry but tuesday would be lovely.
 
Check the bolts aren't actually fitted with lock-tabs? Knock them flat with a screwdriver.





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They were indeed, just knocked them flat, bolts are seized on but with Bellow's magical LE2059, they'll be moving in three or four days.

Remaining bolt for the drop link just yielded to a change in tactics. Long socket got over all the gubbins, a small extender bar on the ratchet and crucially a spanner from behind to hold the rear nut in place and once again, the LE2059 got its man.

Patience, the right lever and the right spot, and lo, even a rusty old Merc and a rusty older Morgan can substitute for the Earth and Archimedes.
 
Re Headlining. Is it possible to detach at two edges only (leaving front and rear intact) thus making refitting easier? An old trick I heard of for refitting headlining is to place a kettle of boiled water in the cabin after refitting and close the doors and windows and allow the headlining to reshape itself.

That's an interesting idea. The worst that can happen is that I need a new headlining.
 
On the subject of callipers, given the Allen bolts are still stuck awaiting the commissioning of the air impact wrench, is it going to be easier getting them out with the callipers still on the car, or off it?
 
If you have sufficient access, then on as you will have something to lever against as the calliper is held in place. Turning the steering full lock may give access to get in with a breaker bar and a 1/2 in drive hex bit.
 
I admit defeat. There is just not enough left within the bolts for the Allen key to get any grip, and the attempt this morning with the ratchet simply left Tony's Allen key bent, which is poor form by me. I have been soaking these things for a couple of weeks, but they are absolutely fused into the calliper. Calliper bolts at the back came out with no problem though.

w114caliper_zpsezfwltrr.jpg


The holes are rounded out too - no doubt my poor technique, but I blame them being rusted and I'm sticking to it!

w114caliper2_zpsn65niywc.jpg


I'm rather devoid of inspiration at this point, I'd rather not have to buy new, but when needs must.
 
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