Mercedes W114 250 Coupe - help!

[Minz]

The only way they're coming out is with a drill. Just not worth it looking at the condition of the calliper. I agree, replace.

 

[Charles Morgan]

Bought a re-manufactured pair from Germany for £130 delivered, which is acceptable.

Of course, getting the disc off is not fun as the handbrake doesn't engage, so for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction of the wheel spinning round...

 

[Charles Morgan]

Much more productive early afternoon on a bright and sunny day. The wind knocked a bumper piece as I was moving it out, which then grazed the strengthener standing up to dry, which fell on the tin of POR15 which, of course, went all over the drive as it is immensely thin. So to avoid wasting it I painted all the bumper internals for front and rear and got under the car to do some areas where I'd rust cured earlier in the week.

The big win though was the roof rails. Attempting Bellow's suggestion I whipped the inner vinyl ceiling trim off and was able to feel around underneath, but the rivets holding on the roof bars were completely flush. However, the front lifted a little, and with a very sharp flathead screwdriver I was able to chop through the rivet easily without any damage to bar or roof. Repeated six times and roof bar is now off. I shall have to work out how to get it all back on, but I doubt that will be too difficult, and I've save the expense of refitting an otherwise good roof lining.

The vinyl ceiling trim was pretty filthy - 45 years of dirt, fumes (I think nicotine here) and a heavily grained finish don't help.

A lot of scrubbing with Servisol, micro fibre cloths etc and a good if not perfect result. Given it will be above eye height to the side in the shade, I think this will suffice.

 

[Druk]

Much more productive early afternoon on a bright and sunny day. The wind knocked a bumper piece as I was moving it out, which then grazed the strengthener standing up to dry, which fell on the tin of POR15 which, of course, went all over the drive as it is immensely thin.

Always look on the bright side Charles. Even if you never finish the car, at least your drive won't rust.

 

[Charles Morgan]

Ho Ho!

I think I have worked out how to get the brake disc off - refit the wheel and chock it, the wheel centre gives access to the disc bolt.

Time for me to start summarising the V8 transplant issues.

 

[Bellow]

I think I have worked out how to get the brake disc off - refit the wheel and chock it, the wheel centre gives access to the disc bolt.

I'm struggling to visualise the offending bolt as more often (on newer cars) it is a countersunk screw with either a Philips or Allen head - in which case either an impact driver or a sharp tap with a centre dab does the trick.
If the chock doesn't grip well enough, tourniquet a rope round the wheel/tyre circumference using a baton to tighten then jam as a holding lever.

Time for me to start summarising the V8 transplant issues.

I recognised some of the technical words in the piece you will have translated on Tuesday and I suspect there's quite a bit of info regarding hooking up the drivetrain along with info on which sensors to use. Some info induction system (filter etc) and on exhaust though I'm guessing having merely seen certain words. You'll know by Tuesday. There is quite a lot known about this particular transplant though isn't there?
Good result with the roof rails.

 

[grober]

This is a rather good illustrated thread on body work including some stuff of the roof rails. 1971 Mercedes W114 250C Stroke 8
Just a thought|:- nowadays with modern adhesives Mercedes might glue them in place??

 

[Charles Morgan]

I'm struggling to visualise the offending bolt as more often (on newer cars) it is a countersunk screw with either a Philips or Allen head - in which case either an impact driver or a sharp tap with a centre dab does the trick.
If the chock doesn't grip well enough, tourniquet a rope round the wheel/tyre circumference using a baton to tighten then jam as a holding lever.

I thought I would check again as operator error is a high probability. This is the rear disc - it is one piece that appears to be held in place by the bolt in the centre. I didn't look behind as there was no chance of a photo in this light.

 

[John Jones Jr]

Judging by that photo, it looks like the only thing stopping you from removing the disc is the parking brake shoes. Slacken off the shoe adjustment and start shocking the disc with a lump hammer and then use a puller if you've got one, otherwise keep belting the disc.

 

[grober]

http://mb.bolinko.org/wis/w114/Chassis/42-228.pdf Don't touch the big central bolt as it attaches the rear axle shaft to the rear axle shaft flange.
5lbs hammer and suitable stout wooden drift time perhaps

Have a look at the manual I sent you Charles.

 

[Charles Morgan]

Doh - of course!

 

[Bellow]

I think JJ Jr is right - in that the bolt retains the driveshaft to the drive flange. Test the theory by attempting rotational movement between disc and drive shaft/flange. If the bolt holes lose alignment, then it's the drum holding it.
Incidentally for that type of holding there are holding tools (hinged 'legs' with dowels that locate with the holes, the hinged end the holding handle). If you have, or can improvise similar to spin the disc it may help ease the drum/shoe friction. At least there shouldn't be the wear lip as when drums are used as a service brake.
Hammer and oaths will get the job done - if it's even stuck. Possibly not.

edit PS
Beaten to the draw....

 

[Charles Morgan]

I'll return to the rear discs tomorrow.

My first stab at the V8 issues from reading up.

V8 transplant issues

Sump – possibly not an issue, otherwise SL420 one/use large hammer

Engine mounts SL420/500?

Oil filter SL420

Power steering pump – use existing or S class one?

Radiator - ditto

Drive shaft – use 250CE auto one with V8 flanges or adapt S class one

Differential – fit the one you’ve got, PCD change?

Gearbox mount

Gear shift - use S class or lovely chrome one from 250CE? Where to put S/W switch if latter?

Speedometer – work out means of using speed signal with mechanical speedo (Abbott Cable X?)

Pedal arrangement S class or existing (will need kickdown sensor)

Throttle cable (replace existing linkage)

Fuel pump (replace with S class one?)

Exhaust manifolds and route - research

Catalyst – keep or dump?

Air intake design and location

Upgrade brakes / anti dive (W116 rear suspension arms)?

 

[DSM10000]

Charles

Having "restored" a Series 2 Land Rover some years ago (rather more "Agricultural" than your project) I can only offer you my admiration and best wishes for the undoubted success even if it be just a personal satisfaction from the experience!

I am raising a glass to you and your endeavours and will continue to do so!

David.

 

[Charles Morgan]

David - better be something good!

 

[Bellow]

The translation when it arrives will answer many of the questions I suspect.
Some of the things I spotted: Elastomer - crank damper I think but possibly mounts; oil filter, pressure regulator/sensor; temp sensor; air filter; exhaust and downpipe; coupling(s) either clutch or propshaft; gearboxes - 4sp auto and 5sp manual; battery.
The joining together words will help greatly!

 

[Charles Morgan]

Thanks Bellow - I've added in the bits below with some repetition

V8 transplant issues

Sump – possibly not an issue, otherwise SL420 one/use large hammer

Engine mounts SL420/500?

Oil filter SL420

Power steering pump – use existing or S class one?

Radiator - ditto

Drive shaft – use 250CE auto one with V8 flanges or adapt S class one

Differential – fit the one you’ve got, PCD change?

Gearbox mount

Gear shift - use S class or lovely chrome one from 250CE? Where to put S/W switch if latter?

Speedometer – work out means of using speed signal with mechanical speedo (Abbott Cable X?)

Pedal arrangement S class or existing (will need kickdown sensor)

Throttle cable (replace existing linkage)

Fuel pump (replace with S class one?)

Exhaust manifolds and route - research

Catalyst – keep or dump?

Air intake design and location

Upgrade brakes / anti dive (W116 rear suspension arms)?

Elastomer - crank damper I think but possibly mounts;

oil filter,

pressure regulator/sensor

temp sensor;

air filter; exhaust and down pipe

coupling(s) either clutch or propshaft;

gearboxes - 4sp auto and 5sp manual;

battery.

 

[DSM10000]

David - better be something good!

A birthday gift from my very lovely Mother -in Law from last year!

Berrys' XO Armagnac, J. Nismes-Delclou (40%) - Buy now at Berry Bros. & Rudd's Online Shop

 

[Charles Morgan]

V8 transplant issues

Sump – possibly not an issue, otherwise SL420 one/use large hammer

Engine mounts SL420/500?

Oil filter SL420

Power steering pump – use existing or S class one?

Radiator - ditto

Drive shaft – use 250CE auto one with V8 flanges or adapt S class one

Differential – fit the one you’ve got, PCD change?

Gearbox mount

Gear shift - use S class or lovely chrome one from 250CE? Where to put S/W switch if latter?

Speedometer – work out means of using speed signal with mechanical speedo (Abbott Cable X?)

Pedal arrangement S class or existing (will need kickdown sensor)

Throttle cable (replace existing linkage)

Fuel pump (replace with S class one?)

Exhaust manifolds and route - research

Catalyst – keep or dump?

Air intake design and location

Upgrade brakes / anti dive (W116 rear suspension arms)?

Elastomer - crank damper I think but possibly mounts;

oil filter,

pressure regulator/sensor

temp sensor;

air filter; exhaust and down pipe

coupling(s) either clutch or propshaft;

gearboxes - 4sp auto and 5sp manual;

battery - into boot

Cooling fans

 

[Charles Morgan]

http://mb.bolinko.org/wis/w114/Chassis/42-228.pdf Don't touch the big central bolt as it attaches the rear axle shaft to the rear axle shaft flange.
5lbs hammer and suitable stout wooden drift time perhaps

Have a look at the manual I sent you Charles.

The manual does not include removing discs, oddly!