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Mercedes W114 250 Coupe - help!

There's no grease to get off, merely casting marks. Not sure how oven cleaner would remove the latter?
 
In order to get the dash out I have to get the heater control knobs off. No amount of twisting or pulling is yielding anything at all.

Next job will be failing to get the instrument binnacle out, at least I have found the water temperature gauge capillary is already disconnected.
 
Might there be little retaining screws accessed from below?
 
This pic shows what they are attached to.

$_35.JPG


This one has me wondering if they need to be removed.

$_20.JPG
 
The effectiveness of Oven Cleaner will remain long after the desire of a hand mirror polish finish has waned.

It's good in the pits too. :) :(
 
I have used it in cleaning up an engine bay, but unless the aluminium is flatted back the effect is merely a clean look.

Mine will be polished to mirror finish and sealed.
 
9377d1056217894-230-6-w114-c-blower-switch-pict0939.jpg


1976 mercedes 300d w115 heater fan switch removal.

from thread
To remove the switch, look inside the vent and at the upper corners, you will find two small screws. Remove these. About 1/3 from the right side deeper inside the vent, you'll see a screw which connects the flap control armature to the flap. Unscrew this until it spins freely. It shouldn't fall away because it has a clip holding it to the armature. Pull the knob out of the switch (it's usually held in with a spring-loaded pin, so just pull straight out.) Remove the plastic control tabs then carefully pull the vent and front cover off. The vent and control covers can easily crack, so be gentle.
:dk::dk::dk:
 
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This is for sale in NZ at the moment, the Lady who owns it is returning to the UK, if it is the same as what you are restoring Charles I could probably get photos of the trans etc.
 
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Got the instrument cluster out, plus the screws in the heater unit, but that is not budging.

Closer inspection of the rust area shows it is also behind the firewall insulation material. Needless to say the insulation is not available anywhere, although I am sure alternatives can be found. However, I think the best thing to do is to get the engine out and clear all the bulkhead of rust from both sides, then rebuild the thing. This is becoming even more of an exercise than I thought.
 
As the car is going to have the windscreen out at Uncle Simeon's I am going to leave taking the dash out as I suspect it will be somewhat easier with screen out (and also less likely to crack or be damaged).
 
Unfortunately the firewall insulation material appears to act as a focus for corrosion presumably because it retains moisture.
Couple of pics of a W115 where the insulation appears OK
708d09f1-8c5e-d10c-d393-2f4c95cadc61-img-20140811-162827-medium.jpg

0142108d-d659-aa42-e06d-be725264b9c8-img-20140811-162348-medium.jpg
 
Couple of better pics and also RHD :thumb: from that OZBENZ THREAD. He sourced it from another car. Evidently the w114 sounds like you're inside a tin drum without it.:eek:

m06Sep14a_zps417a0935.jpg

m07Sep14b_zps16958a59.jpg
 
If I can remove enough of it in pieces and source a similar looking material I might be able to copy it.

The silver lining is that with the rust inducing properties of the original gone, and with a newly prepped and repaired firewall, one might end up with proper protection for the first time!

The internal material used for soundproofing is also water retaining (and very very smelly when old), so that is being replaced by Dynamat. Dynaliner, the heat insulation material, is similarly black, available in the right thickness and is suitably rabid.
 
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I plan quite a lot of extra insulation, this era of car can be pretty noisy!
 
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This stuff also looks good. Thermotec do other products also. There are British agents.
Thermo-Tec : Cool-It Mat



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Whatever insulation properties I couldn't live with silver foil in my engine bay. The Dynaliner, while not textured at least is the correct colour.
 

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