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My w202 c230k track car Help needed

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iam nowing looking at this thinking lets put the grille back in once ive finsihed as it now looks like a scrapper
 
From the days when i used to trade at Santapod i remember there was many a suprise on the strip little crx's screaming past skylines most of it was down to driver with some of it obviously in tuning and setup .

What :eek:

Of course there's some driver element in drag racing but I think you're having a laugh if you think that's the key factor ;)
 
for me its a bit of a childhood dream becoming reality now i can afford to do it . :thumb:

Goon for you mate :thumb:.I know you`re trying lighten the car but a front and rear strut brace would be good
 
I spent 4 years trading at pod mainly but did get all over the country ive seen evo 6's run 16-17 quaters ! swift gtis standard spec do less ! due to driver error poor starts poor gear changes , driver input is the main factor i believe anyway , ive taken in info from those who have the experiance over the years i dont expect what i say to be agreed with by everyone just seems theres some who are interested in what iam having a go at . :thumb:
 
I think the base for a track car can be what ever you want really within reason i chose the c class over my old w124 because of weight and that its manual . They says there many a race lost in the corners and straight line power soon sucomes to g force in the bends on heavy stuff .

The track days near me arent all porsches and caterhams theres loads of home build stuff , i Like the idea of built not bought Then when i breaks you made it shoudl should have a chance at fixing it .

Iam happy with the choice and i guess my lap times will tell i think javelin track days list times which is who i will be using so the proof will be the print out ,,

good handling and stiff chassis low weight good power good tuning options
plenty of time and some money is the guide iam following that other track dayers have given me

theres a few with 190e cosworths but they are slower than the c class from what i have seem both in cornering and on full power .

From the days when i used to trade at Santapod i remember there was many a suprise on the strip little crx's screaming past skylines most of it was down to driver with some of it obviously in tuning and setup .

Iam hoping i can get to drive Donnington , Silvertsone , and others in the car over the next few years so for me its a bit of a childhood dream becoming reality now i can afford to do it . :thumb:

Thanks for the info. I live about 10 minutes from Snetterton, so I’ll look to see if they have any car days there, then go along and have a look. I could buy a Jag XJR 4ltr V8 Supercharged from a family member really cheap, which would be ok for Snetterton as it has enough power, big brakes and good suspension as standard, but it’s like a tank, so not worth buying it for only using at one track. (I could be wrong though????)
 
the air con pump looks tricky as i will have to source a much shorter belt removing the air con rad and piping looks worthwhile , ill be able to use the air con fans as fans for the rad , So i can loose the power sapping viscous unit .
Ive plans for a new intercooler similar size but deeper bringing it out into view and as ive not yet found the oil cooler ( surely theres one somwhere )

I wont keep on with the weights it will get rather tedious ill just keep pulling bits off . Another bonus to getting the car lighter is i can trailer it to elvington ( 30 mile away ) on the back of my hiace without been over weight



Hi

1. Why not use a belt from a non air con model??? get rid of that air con!

2. keep the viscous fan...it only wastes about 1kw of power..and thats only when its engaged at full power..loose the air con fans and allow the air stream (and there's going to be plenty) to cool the radiator/intercooler. Its actually the water pump that burns a bit of energy from the engine..and thats always on...have you ever tryed turning a water pump by hand?? trust me! there's some resistance there..

3) bigger intercooler is a must...and dont go crazy in the position...the more tubing etc...the harder the pump has to work...and you also loose air pressure.

4) WEIGHT LOSS.. I hope you are making notes where the weights came from..weight distribution is critical if you want your car to handle properly..go crazy and you will have a car that will be all over the place when taking corners. Weight loss is good...but needs to be monitored.


5) plse see my comment on pge 1-2...I dont think this model came fitted with a oil cooler...shame!!! thats paramount..maybe there's a away you can fit a remote filtering system with oil cooler. Oil is going to get hotter than hell...and you need to monitor this..if you want to use your car more than a couple of track sessions..

6) COILOVERS -- i woudnt waste time with coilovers...unless you are going to piss about with cambers, toe, etc. Save your money and get youself a good set of springs. by that I dont mean just lowering springs..weight the corner weights of the car once you have finished the weight loss. and get some high spring rate springs...start with something like 200-250NM/mm.
and get some top adjustable front shocks (KONI/SPAX) with shorter piston so you can lower your car 50mm+.

with the weight loss and standard suspension, you car will handle like a boat..

Ps- Not saying this coz I drive 190's...but you would be surprised what a 190e 16 valver can do.....

good luck

mazza
 
Thanks for the info ,, re the springs etc i was going to let bogg brother over the road sort of the suspension setup fo rme as there geared for motorsport prep . I was going to get rid of the powersteering pump and air con pump and use one of these saxo ones as mentioned . I wasnt been detromental about 190es we have one . re weight i can put it on a 4 wheel scale to work out corner weights , iam taking teh fuel tank off this weekend as ive got a atl one for in the boot 4 gallon . the car will be very low when finished that was why i wante dcoil vers so i could have more control over re bound etc , Ive yet to find a set i would part cash for though . :thumb:
 
terrible spelling in my last post i should slow down with the typing , i found a fitting to add an oil cooler i need to investigate on the car more iam hoping my firend at auto cool radiators will make me the rest when i get him on with the intercooler .
 
Ok W124 AMG here's what I did with mine:

1. Chipped it, which increased the bhp by ~9bhp at the wheels, was bloody fantastic i thought at the time, was probably lucky.

2. I relocated the Airflow meter to sit next to the throttle body, made a difference in smoothness and response, not much else.

3. K&N air filter made it noticably louder and it felt lighter, but again I didnt try dyno'ing it.

4. Exhaust system. This was the major mod and it gave me alot of power because it was immediately noticeable. I removed the merc cats and bought a HKS catalyst, and tubed it to a C36 AMG backbox, these are the only 2 boxes in my whole exhaust system.

5. Heat wrapped my manifold, although this probably didnt increase the power, it made for great fireworks display when being pushed :D.

6. Delphi Lockheed Vented & grooved discs, bought these of ebay, £130 for set of 4, lasted me the 2 1/2 years I had the car, and they were fantastic. Also got Goodridge stainless steel brake hoses fitted, provided me with more bite and definitely increased braking efficiency.

7. Brabus 18x9J (I think) alloys, ET37, Goodyear Eagle F1's 225/40/18 on the front 245/35/18 on the rear. The grip I had was immense and these tyres lasted me the whole time I had the car (almost 2 years), although when I sold it the rears which at about 1-2mm left, fronts were perfect.

If I kept the car, my number 8 would've been a pulley & a bigger intercooler (I heard that a certain volvo intercooler would've fit perfectly in the merc with minimum fabrication, but i didnt look into this too much). But with those 2 I would've got the ECU 'live mapped' as nobody really has real software to cater for this I am led to believe.

My number 9 would've been the Bilstein B12 suspension kit. Yes its £500, but I know 2 members on here, one of which is BlackC55 who has his own specialist garage in portsmouth, and it came highly recommended by both members, I definitely would have went for this.

If you look at it, my engine mods weren't that extensive, I feel I basically opened up her potential and that was it, managed to achieve exactly 191.1 rear wheel horse power at 6093rpm, achieved maximum torque of 225.7ft lbs @ 4094rpm. It was a fantastic car, and I miss it to bits :D.

If you need anything else let me know!
 
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Wheres the bloody oil filter

Is the oil filter just next to the powersteering resevoir ?
 
Oil cooler can be done with a feed plate on the factory oil filter housing.

Loose the duel mass if you can, it will fail eventually, and according to one source I found, every pound you save on the flywheel will be like losing 15 out of the car at 6000 revs, due to inertia of the speed of the engine
 
Dmf

I would love to loose the dmf iam going to put a new clutch in so ill investigate once i get it out as to what can be done ,

I could get one made near by but iam guessing it will cost loads . Re the oil cooler setup , Has anyone seen any of these conversions , i had hoped for a standard oil filter and just fit a Mopar oil cooler adaptor plate , ill keep searching on web ,

Ive found a few things on Ebay.de using the google toolbar auto translator , theres a lot of TUv stuff on there which generally means good quality . Ive heard similar about the flywheel and having it lighter should give a more more happy engine , and as you say the weight reduction should be noticable ,

They used to make race props which were lighter i presume to increase the same effect . Some of the bushes in the gear linkage are shot so iam goingto haveto get to the scrappy near me they have a few in so i was going to rumage around and see what else they may have ,

I took the front seat out this morning and it weighed in at 27 kilo , As state dby many of you the car is pretty dangerous right now as there is so little weight in the back and the rear suspension has raised about 3 cm .

I went out in it Luckly i live in the sticks as in the dry if power it out of corners it is all over the place fun but i dont want a drifter ,, This get me thinking is there a LSD available or on a model that i could find in the scrappy's ?

Today is head lining and the rear seat belts and all the plastic trunking to take out .

If anyone need any genuine fixings little push clips etc just let me know , FOR the price of a stamp ill send you some .
 
Quote: 'w210 oil burner is apparently 194hp and weighs in at 1829 Kg that'll be 1/2 ton more weight now when i shave it to under a ton you will be nearly'

Apparently 194hp
Actually 174bhp!
 
Update

Not much has happened Ive been a bit busy , i have received a atl fuel cell for in the boot smal 20 litre , I won a set of 6 w124 springs in ebay so iam going to chop 2 of them to lowerthe rear of the car until i get some coil overs , i figured there roughly the same diameter and should be a higher load rating so stiffer as my w124 is way heavier than the class , As an added bonus iam going to chop 2 more up for the rear of the 190e and the remaining new jamex springs that i got in the same auction are going on the front of the w124 So you can imagine for £20.00 and £8.00 postage iam pretty chuffed:bannana:

I managed to trap the boot shut by removing the trim and as the plunge sensor could not work due to the trim missing i had a stick and metal rod sellotaped together through the metal frame under where the parcel shelf was to puch the sensor up so i could get out and puch the button , Till that point i didnt realise that the tail gate button is electronic !!! funny now but at the time i was Fuming .

Iam looking for a good quality bucket seat , i also need a steering wheel boss if anyone knows where i might get one .
 
Hey,cool project you have there!..

If you want to install an oil cooler you could do one of two things...
Remove the oil filter and make an adapter to take oil out through the filter housing cap into a remote filter/cooler and back in,or install the M111 VITO Van's engine front cover and use the original mercedes vito van oil-water cooler and/or install your own cooler like this:

Vito cover is on the right side. It also has over pressure bypass if the cooler gets blocked.the one on the left was an attemp and trying to make an oil in and out attachment on the stock M111 cover...however the alloy is porous with oil and cannot be welded.
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The Dual mass flywheel is fairly heavy if i recall...its around 22kg complete with clutch and pressure plate.the clamp pressure will not hold much more than stock torque.Its not to hard to make a single mass.

The trickyness of your stock gearbox is normal...goodluck with improving it!;).

Cheers,
Paul
 
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Getting going with the car again

So i started the car after been sat out in -13c for weeks and under a foot of snow , I put it in my workshop about to start a bit of tinkering and i go to start it and click it wont go battery is fine the engine turns a small amount then stops , i did take the battery off to charge it so iam wondering if i have immobilised it , it tried towing it round and round my house but nothing all teh dash lights work so iam Stuck ...

Its been a long time but i now have lexon for the windows all interior including door glass motors etc have gone , air con rad is gone viscous fan , the aircon fans will be used in replacement of the viscous one , its now very low , but until i can get it to start i cant get it to my friends ramp to get the fuel tank off or take the gearbox off

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHY IT WONT GO ?????? I Wish i had left it in the snow now it must have been happy there .
 

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