Paint Correction

[clk320x]

I am planning to begin paint correction on my vehicles from Thursday next week.

Can anyone confirm if I am missing anything?

1. Wash the vehicle as usual - using snowfoam pre-wash, followed by 2 bucket wash with EZ Supercharged Shampoo.
2. Re-snowfoam the car and clean it using the Farecla G3 Clay Mitt.
3. Use Tar Remover on any tar spots
3. Rinse and leave vehicle to dry (DI vessel used to prevent water spotting)
4. Prime DA cutting pad (Lake country - orange) with Megs Ultimate Compound. Carry out 4 passes in a # pattern. Separate panels into sections and carry out one panel at a time.
5. Clean off polish residue using microfibre.
6. Carry out 2 passes with light cut polish pad (Lake Country - White) with Megs Ultimate Polish. Separate panels into sections and carry out one panel at a time.
7. Clean off polish residue.
8. Wax using Collinite 845 on a Lake Country - Black finishing pad. Wipe off residue.

I think I might have to spread this across multiple days, perhaps doing 2 panels a day.

Cheers.

 

[merc85]

I personally wash the car after each polish, Gets weird looks from the neighbors haha

 

[AMGeed]

Use the tar remover before the clay mitt Abs.

 

[bolidemichael]

I would also use Bilt Hamber Korrosol in order to decontaminate the body, prior to the clay bar.

 

[clk320x]

Thanks guys.

Can someone recommend a good tar and fall out remover to spray over the car please?

 

[merc85]

I would also use Bilt Hamber Korrosol in order to decontaminate the body, prior to the clay bar.

Yep id second that, I've used it and its great apart from the smell lol

 

[clk320x]

Thanks guys.

I’m thinking of doing 1-2 panels a day. For example day 1, wash and decontaminate the bonnet, dry it and then proceed with the correction. Taking my time to get the perfect finish I’m aiming for. Perhaps 2-3 hours or more. Then rest and proceed to the next panel the following day? Would that work?

 

[Will]

Abs,

Unless you’re still driving it about I would recommend you decontaminate the whole car - wash as described, then iron fallout and tar removal (separate products)

Then wash again and use your clay mitt. You could wash and clay the panels one at a time if you’re leaving it outside before you polish, but in all honesty you could just clay the whole car and rewash the panels you are going to polish as you go if it’s not being driven and the whole process is done over a few days (and you don’t live next to a train track or a motorway etc!)

If doing it in that way I would start with the horizontal panels - such as the roof/bonnet etc as they will naturally start to pick up more contamination once prepped.

If you use a decent fallout remover and likewise a decent tar remover there probably won’t be much to take off with the clay, and it is much better than dragging the excess tar/iron particles over the paint

Not sure on the wax/coating front - have you considered any of the modern spray on type ceramic coatings - be interesting to see how durable they are compared to wax?

Don’t forget some pics!

 

[ToeKnee]

So should you seal then wax a newly prepped panel, or wax then seal?

 

[bolidemichael]

Seal then wax, which seems massively counter intuitive, but wax is like the gloss coat.

 

[AMV]

If you get a chance, take some pictures/videos of your process and a before/after.

I would eventually like to get my hands on a DA and get some tester panels and have a bit of a gander..

 

[Sicario]

Honestly you wont need a tester panel for a DA, they are a piece of pith, fear is your friend, dont press down, speed up your arm movement on edges and high points, and keep stopping to feel the temperature of your pad and paint, you`ll hardly feel any heat at all, it really is just a case of letting the compound or polish do the work.

I just picked up a test panel so i can:-

1) scratch it, one single top coat scratch and to wet sand the scratch with Trizact 3000-5000 and to cut & polish with a rotary
2) to do a deep scratch and touch it up with paint and a tooth pick, finish off with a slightly proud layer of top coat, leave to cure for a few days and wet sand it back, cut & polish with a rotary
3) intentionally try to burn through the top coat on flat bit and a high point or an edge

Only after a few hours with the DA is giving me the confidence to try my rotary, but im not complacent about it, i know i have to be fearful and let common sense prevail.

 

[Y15HAL]

Honestly you wont need a tester panel for a DA, they are a piece of pith, fear is your friend, dont press down, speed up your arm movement on edges and high points, and keep stopping to feel the temperature of your pad and paint, you`ll hardly feel any heat at all, it really is just a case of letting the compound or polish do the work.

I just picked up a test panel so i can:-

1) scratch it, one single top coat scratch and to wet sand the scratch with Trizact 3000-5000 and to cut & polish with a rotary
2) to do a deep scratch and touch it up with paint and a tooth pick, finish off with a slightly proud layer of top coat, leave to cure for a few days and wet sand it back, cut & polish with a rotary
3) intentionally try to burn through the top coat on flat bit and a high point or an edge

Only after a few hours with the DA is giving me the confidence to try my rotary, but im not complacent about it, i know i have to be fearful and let common sense prevail.

Sounds good - you know you'll have to document the whole process for us all to see

 

[Sicario]

Yeah i can do some before and after shots