Project: W124 Recommission

[Charles Morgan]

Can it. You've barely started, take what you want and cut your losses.

 

[mj2k]

In a way its no surprise that after a much more detailed inspection the car is showing most of the characteristic body corrosion of these models at that age. It is after all 25 + years old having spent its life in the UK 's car unfriendly climate. I would venture that after 365,000 miles? the mechanicals may also be a little past their best. Being frank a manual 2.5 diesel is not a spec that's going to appeal to the bulk of W124 buyers save maybe the veg oil brigade who tend to major on costs anyway. Most cars can be restored if enough money is spent on em but this one is looking more like a labour of love rather than an investment in the longer term. :dk

Yeah, think you're right, I still haven't driven it properly yet, and there may still be more of that rot in unexpected places to uncover. I'd have still considered it doable but for that totally destroyed rear wheelarch and the snapped bolts - that's a couple of extra weekends' work for a start.

Oh well, looks like that 4 years in a barn may not have been so good for it after all...

 

[Charles Morgan]

Generally when it comes to cars in 'barns' it's not the layup of itself that causes the real problems - it's often the real problems that caused the layup.

 

[mj2k]

Generally when it comes to cars in 'barns' it's not the layup of itself that causes the real problems - it's often the real problems that caused the layup.

Heh, true enough.

But I get the feeling the layup caused the unusual rot issues and definitely caused that rear wheelarch to dissolve - I recon the odd rust issues can have only been caused by 4 years of condensation, and when the prev owner went abroad he didn't bother to hose the car down underneath so the underside had been brewing in a nice stew of mud and cow poo.

Even after 4 years the wheelarch mud still had an interesting aroma about it, so at least I've got some good compost out of the wheelarches

 

[John Jones Jr]

Can it. You've barely started, take what you want and cut your losses.

100%

Then look for a good petrol W124 and have the purchase cost again to bring it up to a very usable and nice standard.

 

[John Jones Jr]

Heh, true enough.

But I get the feeling the layup caused the unusual rot issues and definitely caused that rear wheelarch to dissolve - I recon the odd rust issues can have only been caused by 4 years of condensation...

Maybe, but I'd have a bet the initial rust issues were there prior to the four years.

 

[mj2k]

Maybe, but I'd have a bet the initial rust issues were there prior to the four years.

Inevitably, at least for the exterior and underbody rust. I suspect the car was 'tarted' for sale to the prev owner 5+ years ago, so the wheelarch / paintwork issues probably originated then.

The floorpan rust issues are more mysterious though - one's half way up a vertical box section which isn't exposed to the elements at all, another one's on the flat horizontal panel underneath the driver's seat. None of the usual signs of water leakage either.

 

[mj2k]

100%

Then look for a good petrol W124 and have the purchase cost again to bring it up to a very usable and nice standard.

Assuming the engine and box are still decent I could even stick them in a 190e

Just a shame the interior's not transferrable.

 

[John Jones Jr]

Assuming the engine and box are still decent I could even stick them in a 190e

Just a shame the interior's not transferrable.

I'm a fan of both and previous owner too. Since you have a W124 I'd be rather more inclined to look at getting another rather than a W201.

At the end of the day there's no rights or wrongs, it really depends on what takes your fancy.

 

[mj2k]

I'm a fan of both and previous owner too. Since you have a W124 I'd be rather more inclined to look at getting another rather than a W201.

At the end of the day there's no rights or wrongs, it really depends on what takes your fancy.

I've had both too, always fancied a 5 cylinder 190d but they're pretty hard to come by; I test drove one but by the time I'd come back with the deposit it had been sold.

OTOH the W124 is more roomy and that W124 interior I've got is to die for

 

[bolide]

I've had a couple of 190D 2.5s. Same engine & box as the 250TD I owned for twelve years. In the W124 it's a great combination, surprisingly smooth and quite good fun

IMHO the same setup doesn't gel as well in the W201. It surprised me each time, but the engine felt coarse in the W201. The 190E doesn't have the isolation from the road of a W124 and it's not as compelling a package

The 190E 2.6 is another story altogether

Nick Froome

 

[bolide]

I've had a couple of 190D 2.5s. Same engine & box as the 250TD I owned for twelve years. In the W124 it's a great combination, surprisingly smooth and quite good fun

IMHO the same setup doesn't gel as well in the W201. It surprised me each time, but the engine felt coarse in the W201. The 190E doesn't have the isolation from the road of a W124 and it's not as compelling a package

The 190E 2.6 is another story altogether

Nick Froome

 

[mj2k]

I've had a couple of 190D 2.5s. Same engine & box as the 250TD I owned for twelve years. In the W124 it's a great combination, surprisingly smooth and quite good fun

IMHO the same setup doesn't gel as well in the W201. It surprised me each time, but the engine felt coarse in the W201. The 190E doesn't have the isolation from the road of a W124 and it's not as compelling a package

The 190E 2.6 is another story altogether

Nick Froome

I quite liked it on a test drive, but it was a 2.5 auto with leather whereas I was used to a worn-out early 190 2.0 petrol with manual box.

Might stick that engine in the 'Bay then.

 

[mj2k]

Talking about putting things on Ebay, are there any W124 parts which anyone needs, or which are likely to be in high demand?

Edit: Excluding body panels of course

 

[mj2k]

Project: W124 Decommission!

I've made a start on dismantling it - boot lock, rear lights, rear spoiler so far, and I'll be removing the interior, electric sunroof mech, the one working window winder, locks, clutch mech, as much electrical stuff as I can, and the engine / gearbox.

But even as I'm starting to dismantle it, humming the Stranglers' top 10 hit 'Crumbly Brown' as I find more & more rust, I'm still marveling at the amazing attention to detail which went into building this car in the first place, from the way an armoured electric cable passes through the boot hinge to the way the door cards are engineered to give the doors a satisfying 'thunk' when you close them.

For once here's a car where you really can say "they don't build 'em like this any more"

 

[Deleted member 11979]

I feel your pain, I'm "repairing" w124 300td which I've converted from auto to manual

On the face of it it's a shiny car with less rust than is normal on a w124, but the underside was given a good poking by mechanic who smiled with glee every time his screwdriver found a new hole.

He's.making a good job of welding these up now, so hopefully I should have a usable tidy car in a couple weeks time

I did feel like giving up halfway through but I am not quite as clever as you've been!!!

Ref breaking the car, if you have outside temp gauge, illuminated vanity mirrors, leather steering wheel, genuine floor mats or anything unusual then you dive able to sell it, even a tool kit, jack and set of manuals seems to attract buyers, period stereo?

There are plenty of cheap decent w124 saloons for sale, so maybe buy one of those and swap the bits you liked from the project car

 

[mj2k]

None of the above unfortunately, it's just a very rusty, very ordinary w124 saloon; even the ASD it was supposed to have is just a normal diff.

Now I've started to dismantle it I've realized it's way beyond the realms of a normal restoration - there's even rust on the inside of the bootlid and the lip the rear light clusters attach to has crumbled away to nothing!

So looks like it'll just be worth keeping the usual bits everyone takes (lights, locks, etc) and attempt to recoup my losses through selling the engine on. Still, I'll have got the manual box / pedals I wanted from it, and it only cost £500 in the first place so I shouldn't end up too out of pocket

 

[John Jones Jr]

It might be wise to hold on to the propshaft also, you may need the front section - starter and flywheel also.

 

[mj2k]

Hmmm, whilst finding the engine info I came across the original advert; not terribly accurate tbh:

"Body work in great condition, full alloys, electric sunroof, windows and locking all working"

Bet the ex-owner's nose has grown a bit

 

[Deleted member 11979]

If doing a manual conversion you'll need the gearbox cross member as well as the front exhaust bracket as they are manual specific

Also the fluid reservoir, associated pipes even if it's just to use as patterns

It's an easy job to swap auto to manual