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Replacing tyres on a lease car

This is why it's always preferable to take a 24 month lease rather than a 36 month lease, assuming up to 10k miles a year. You don't have to deal with needing to replace tyres before the car is returned, plus if you return it a month early, then you don't even need to bother with the 2nd service either!
 
This is why it's always preferable to take a 24 month lease rather than a 36 month lease, assuming up to 10k miles a year. You don't have to deal with needing to replace tyres before the car is returned, plus if you return it a month early, then you don't even need to bother with the 2nd service either!
I’m the other way. If you’re going to keep on leasing then it make sense to do as longer term as you can so that you don’t have to keep shelling out for the big deposits.
 
I’m the other way. If you’re going to keep on leasing then it make sense to do as longer term as you can so that you don’t have to keep shelling out for the big deposits.
@Happytalk73 It all depends upon the deal. It's misleading to look at the initial payment, better to look at the total cost of the lease as a percentage of the P11d price to figure out if it's a competitive deal for a lease.
 
@Happytalk73 It all depends upon the deal. It's misleading to look at the initial payment, better to look at the total cost of the lease as a percentage of the P11d price to figure out if it's a competitive deal for a lease.
I agree. But I’ve always paid max deposit 9 or 12) to keep the monthly payments as low as possible. So I’d sooner shell out £3k+ every 4 years than every 2.
 
Over a year ago one of my Eagle runflats had a puncture, I couldn’t get the same tyre that day so had to buy a Bridgestone runflat instead, this was fitted by TyreMedics and no mention of unsuitability.
it has rained heavy, a touch of snow, hot and sunny and lots of drizzle. The car has never budged going round corners, roundabouts or tight bends, it’s not weaved across the motorway at 70 mph, not over steered, not under steered, hasn’t worn irregular.
It’s not accelerated sideways or braked like a pendulum.
I took us to the Lake District last October, through the leafy backroads to Hawkshead and surr
The tyre pressures are all the same and all tyres fitted in the right direction.
I actually think the Bridgestone is a better tyre than the eagles, but maybe because its newer.
I have no idea if the wet braking efficiency of this tyre with 7mm is better or worse than 5mm of a Goodyear Eagle MO tyre. Its the wife’s car and she does drive very carefully and with consideration. When I drive it I drive with spirit but also with awareness, riding a Yamaha R1 for 12 years taught me this, so think I am a reasonable driver.
We used to mix tyres on my bike as well, fitting used race compound tyres for the summer.

I guess I have been very lucky.
But you can’t be too careful.


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I've used tyremedics for a tyre on the taxi, they also did the alignment on the SL and took very good care with the car, they do know their stuff!
 
Over a year ago one of my Eagle runflats had a puncture, I couldn’t get the same tyre that day so had to buy a Bridgestone runflat instead, this was fitted by TyreMedics and no mention of unsuitability.
it has rained heavy, a touch of snow, hot and sunny and lots of drizzle. The car has never budged going round corners, roundabouts or tight bends, it’s not weaved across the motorway at 70 mph, not over steered, not under steered, hasn’t worn irregular.
It’s not accelerated sideways or braked like a pendulum.
I took us to the Lake District last October, through the leafy backroads to Hawkshead and surr
The tyre pressures are all the same and all tyres fitted in the right direction.
I actually think the Bridgestone is a better tyre than the eagles, but maybe because its newer.
I have no idea if the wet braking efficiency of this tyre with 7mm is better or worse than 5mm of a Goodyear Eagle MO tyre. Its the wife’s car and she does drive very carefully and with consideration. When I drive it I drive with spirit but also with awareness, riding a Yamaha R1 for 12 years taught me this, so think I am a reasonable driver.
We used to mix tyres on my bike as well, fitting used race compound tyres for the summer.

I guess I have been very lucky.
But you can’t be too careful.


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I see you have survived!
A normal responsible driver in literally any weather conditions would never pick up on 2 different tyres on an axle. To be honest, if I blindfolded the nay sayers and stuck them in a CClass with 4 different tyres, they’d never know either.
 
This is why it's always preferable to take a 24 month lease rather than a 36 month lease, assuming up to 10k miles a year. You don't have to deal with needing to replace tyres before the car is returned, plus if you return it a month early, then you don't even need to bother with the 2nd service either!

Isn't tyre wear simply a function of overall mileage covered during the lease period, regardless of length of the lease? In your particular case 2 years may equate to the thread life of the tyres, but this will vary from one person to another depending on their particular use.
 
I see you have survived!
A normal responsible driver in literally any weather conditions would never pick up on 2 different tyres on an axle. To be honest, if I blindfolded the nay sayers and stuck them in a CClass with 4 different tyres, they’d never know either.
Yes I agree, most wouldn’t, tyre pressure and tread depth more important,
I had a new Honda Civic Type R once, came with a free Honda advanced driving course, the ex police advanced driving instructor didn’t let me go out before he had checked all tyre pressures, we drove on public roads at frightening pace.
We are off to Northumberland this weekend, prob cover around 600 miles as also crossing to Holy Island, so unless I have that "sure collision" I will be back next Saturday.
 
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Isn't tyre wear simply a function of overall mileage covered during the lease period, regardless of length of the lease? In your particular case 2 years may equate to the thread life of the tyres, but this will vary from one person to another depending on their particular use.
@markjay Yes mileage matters but assuming it's a private lease of 5-10k miles a year, a 24 month lease is less likely to need tyres replacing than a 36 month lease. Plus you have the cost additional year 2 service within a 36 month lease as well. A lot of the keenly priced lease deals (as a % of P11d price) are often for 24 months, not 36 months. However, more importantly, it depends upon the actual tyres fitted from the factory. I've read about one chap whose leased Audi needed new tyres after 12k/18 months to replace the factory Hankooks that seemed to be wear out very rapidly.
 
Over a year ago one of my Eagle runflats had a puncture, I couldn’t get the same tyre that day so had to buy a Bridgestone runflat instead, this was fitted by TyreMedics and no mention of unsuitability.
it has rained heavy, a touch of snow, hot and sunny and lots of drizzle. The car has never budged going round corners, roundabouts or tight bends, it’s not weaved across the motorway at 70 mph, not over steered, not under steered, hasn’t worn irregular.
It’s not accelerated sideways or braked like a pendulum.
I took us to the Lake District last October, through the leafy backroads to Hawkshead and surr
The tyre pressures are all the same and all tyres fitted in the right direction.
I actually think the Bridgestone is a better tyre than the eagles, but maybe because its newer.
I have no idea if the wet braking efficiency of this tyre with 7mm is better or worse than 5mm of a Goodyear Eagle MO tyre. Its the wife’s car and she does drive very carefully and with consideration. When I drive it I drive with spirit but also with awareness, riding a Yamaha R1 for 12 years taught me this, so think I am a reasonable driver.
We used to mix tyres on my bike as well, fitting used race compound tyres for the summer.

I guess I have been very lucky.
But you can’t be too careful.


View attachment 115725View attachment 115726View attachment 115727View attachment 115728
I accept.
Now I got a pair of used tires from a pal, 255 45 17, put them on our old v6, at that point I had begginer's knowledge about tires, and vehicles in general, this was in my teens when I first got my learner's license. On a moderately rainy day on an incline I had to brake hard at (if I recall accurately) 60 MPH, the rear gave out and I did a 360 degree spin in to the other lane. God bless as fate shall have it, I made it out alive.

Points to Consider:
1. Yes we can check and gauge the thread life
2. How can you tell whether the rubber quality is good enough for the motorway?
3. What check can you perform for the sidewall strength? And how Long will this sidewall last?
4. In this current used condition what is the wet tire traction rating?
5. What is braking distance in dry and wet conditions?
6. How do you know the steel ply construction will hold this tire in shape and for how long?
7. Another critical component the tire valve as well, which should be new, regardless
8. Mixing off road, all season, all terrain, eco, and sport compounds will not have any consequences? How can you assure this?

Credible source backing this up:


P. S: When you can answer the aforementioned questions, and back it up by using credible authoritative sources get back to me.
 
A normal responsible driver in literally any weather conditions would never pick up on 2 different tyres on an axle.
^ This is completely true, but it's never in routine driving conditions that mismatches of tread depth, inflation (within reason) or different tyres on an axle will show up: it's when the brown smelly stuff hits the air movement device and you're banking on maximum balance and grip to save your skin that it can make the critical difference.

People are only partially correct when they say, "Ahh, but the stability control system / ABS will come to the rescue" because the laws of physics dictate that those systems will intervene to accommodate the wheel(s) with the least traction. In other words, the whole vehicle's performance will be decided by the weakest link, in this case the worst gripping tyre. It's a "lowest common denominator" solution and is why one tyre on an axle worn close to the legal limit will be the deciding factor in the outcome of emergency braking, even if the other three tyres are in great shape with near new tread.

Each of us have different attitudes to risk, and that's fine. I choose to ride motorcycles which, in relative risk terms, are terrible by comparison to driving a car. I also choose to mitigate the absolute risk that riding involves by engaging in meticulous maintenance and choosing the best tyres available, installing them in a matched pair, discarding them before they are worn to the legal limit, checking them for damage before I ride and keeping them properly inflated. I tend to apply the same approach to my cars, even though - in absolute terms - it is likely to have less effect than on a motorcycle.

Driving a car on mismatched tyres will not result in certain death, nor even a certain collision, but it is a variable that can be easily controlled and it may - that's right, may - in an emergency situation make a critical difference.
 
I accept.
Now I got a pair of used tires from a pal, 255 45 17, put them on our old v6, at that point I had begginer's knowledge about tires, and vehicles in general, this was in my teens when I first got my learner's license. On a moderately rainy day on an incline I had to brake hard at (if I recall accurately) 60 MPH, the rear gave out and I did a 360 degree spin in to the other lane. God bless as fate shall have it, I made it out alive.

Points to Consider:
1. Yes we can check and gauge the thread life
2. How can you tell whether the rubber quality is good enough for the motorway?
3. What check can you perform for the sidewall strength? And how Long will this sidewall last?
4. In this current used condition what is the wet tire traction rating?
5. What is braking distance in dry and wet conditions?
6. How do you know the steel ply construction will hold this tire in shape and for how long?
7. Another critical component the tire valve as well, which should be new, regardless
8. Mixing off road, all season, all terrain, eco, and sport compounds will not have any consequences? How can you assure this?

Credible source backing this up:


P. S: When you can answer the aforementioned questions, and back it up by using credible authoritative sources get back to me.
Sorry, I’m bored now.
 
The tread depth is wearing abit thin 🤣
 
I accept.
Now I got a pair of used tires from a pal, 255 45 17, put them on our old v6, at that point I had begginer's knowledge about tires, and vehicles in general, this was in my teens when I first got my learner's license. On a moderately rainy day on an incline I had to brake hard at (if I recall accurately) 60 MPH, the rear gave out and I did a 360 degree spin in to the other lane. God bless as fate shall have it, I made it out alive.

Points to Consider:
1. Yes we can check and gauge the thread life
2. How can you tell whether the rubber quality is good enough for the motorway?
3. What check can you perform for the sidewall strength? And how Long will this sidewall last?
4. In this current used condition what is the wet tire traction rating?
5. What is braking distance in dry and wet conditions?
6. How do you know the steel ply construction will hold this tire in shape and for how long?
7. Another critical component the tire valve as well, which should be new, regardless
8. Mixing off road, all season, all terrain, eco, and sport compounds will not have any consequences? How can you assure this?

Credible source backing this up:


P. S: When you can answer the aforementioned questions, and back it up by using credible authoritative sources get back to me.
Do you ever shut up?
 
I accept.
Now I got a pair of used tires from a pal, 255 45 17, put them on our old v6, at that point I had begginer's knowledge about tires, and vehicles in general, this was in my teens when I first got my learner's license. On a moderately rainy day on an incline I had to brake hard at (if I recall accurately) 60 MPH, the rear gave out and I did a 360 degree spin in to the other lane. God bless as fate shall have it, I made it out alive.

Points to Consider:
1. Yes we can check and gauge the thread life
2. How can you tell whether the rubber quality is good enough for the motorway?
3. What check can you perform for the sidewall strength? And how Long will this sidewall last?
4. In this current used condition what is the wet tire traction rating?
5. What is braking distance in dry and wet conditions?
6. How do you know the steel ply construction will hold this tire in shape and for how long?
7. Another critical component the tire valve as well, which should be new, regardless
8. Mixing off road, all season, all terrain, eco, and sport compounds will not have any consequences? How can you assure this?

Credible source backing this up:


P. S: When you can answer the aforementioned questions, and back it up by using credible authoritative sources get back to me.
Are you serious, about all the above.

When I bought my one time used tyre, the following is what I and my go to tyre fitter checked.

1) Same brand as my other 3 tyres, Goodyear MO
2) how much thread, 7mm
3) Even tyre wear, yes
4) Sidewall damage, No
5) Bulges, cracks or puncture repairs, None
6) Air leaks after fitting, None
7) Date, 1 year old.

in my eyes the above are the only checks joe public can reasonably do. As I mentioned earlier, to date I have not had a issue, and have done motorway journeys with it.

That said fully appreciate and understand not all used tyres would be like the one I had purchased, so one have to be careful with them.
 

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