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Rust - good stabilisers and protection

Charles Morgan

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 2, 2010
Messages
8,206
Car
Mercedes 250CE W114, Alfa Romeo GT Coupe 3.2 V6
Stripping down various parts of my W114 restoration project and I'm finding a decent amount of rust. I have been using Kurust to treat it as far as is possible, any better suggestions from people and I'd like to treat every surface on which I've found rust to a good preventative coat of underseal/sealant/protector - any suggestions?
 
Bilt Hamber seems to be the one. Lots of different types of product - all made in the UK. It's available in seriously large quantities which drives the cost per litre down a lot

Bilt Hamber is a made-up name. Sounds to me like a Scandewegian rocket scientist, which I suppose was the idea

The septics go mad over POR15 but it is very expensive over here

Nick Froome
 
It would seem entirely appropriate that the experts in treating rust on cars are British...

Bilt Hamber it shall be. I don't want any septics near the car, it has enough diseases as it is!
 
Charles Morgan said:
It would seem entirely appropriate that the experts in treating rust on cars are British... Bilt Hamber it shall be. I don't want any septics near the car, it has enough diseases as it is!

I've used bilt hammer and kurust on projects and personally think kurust is the better product. I've had rust come back through paint with bilt hammer prep but never seen this with kurust including the rear arches if my W208 which were now done 7 years ago and are still clean and rust free

Sent from my iPhone using MBClub UK
 
Can well recommend the BH Deox Gel. Easy to apply and doesn't go everywhere you don't want it to go!
 
Here is a link to that review since the original has gone.
https://web.archive.org/web/20110912133613/http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/Portals/0/docs/MIM164ontest.pdf

Its not comprehensive but does indicate why folks often get variable results with different or even the same products. Many rust prevention/removal products are multi-stage involving several chemicals and surface preparation followed by suitable priming and painting. Failure to pre treat the surfaces involved or remove residues post treatment can all materially influence the success of the operation. In many cases a rudimentary knowledge of exactly which chemical process is going on may help. In some cases despite manufacturers claims things can simply be too far gone and metal simply has to be replaced to achieve a satisfactory outcome. In many cases you are simply chemically reversing an electrolysis process and like many chemical reactions the input of energy in some shape or form may speed things up. This might imply that this sort of work will proceed faster when ambient temperatures are higher rather than say in a cold garage in the depths of winter. Sometimes it helps to introduce a little energy into the system in the form of electrolysis.
I love this guys approach---- which I assume continues the age old tradition of "makin' moonshine y'all" the second a little more technical and the third an illustration of Bilthamber Deoxy
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hydrate 80 is my recommendation.

por15 also
 
Found a reproduction of several of PRACTICAL CLASSICS illustrated reviews half way through this thread.
XJ40 ? View topic - PRACTICAL CLASSICS RUST CONVERTER TEST

Bilthamber hydrate 80 comes out on top in one category but its important to recognise its a rust convertor not a rust remover- although both may achieve the same end a stable surface to paint there is a subtle difference.
 
I've used POR15 on my truck and found it very good.

You do have to be careful with it. If it gets on your hands it does NOT come off. DAMHIK!
 
This might imply that this sort of work will proceed faster when ambient temperatures are higher rather than say in a cold garage in the depths of winter.

I love the first chap, good ole boy.

Noted on the cold garage, I had noticed the problem with kurust on the headlamp reflectors. IIRC the rate of chemical reactions doubles for each 10% increase in temperature. I think I'll clear the study!
 
We used a set of mole grips on most of mine. The smaller bolts take ages, but they are strong so we (probably luckily) didn't snap any.

De-rusted, zinc coated and Hammerited any of the internal strengtheners and the back of the chromes before putting it all back together using copperslip on all the bolts and a generous coating of Waxoyl. I caught mine just in time as the external panels at the back and the chromes themselves were fine, but the internal panels were covered in rust (I think they only get an undercoat from the factory). Only needed to change one panel - the thin strengthener behind the number plate. Luckily a cheap part!

3 years on and no issues so think the over the top approach works!
 
The rustbuster arrived today, so I'll give that a whirl over Christmas.
 
Stripping down various parts of my W114 restoration project and I'm finding a decent amount of rust. I have been using Kurust to treat it as far as is possible, any better suggestions from people and I'd like to treat every surface on which I've found rust to a good preventative coat of underseal/sealant/protector - any suggestions?
I am using Rustbuster 123 at present - good reviews in Practical classics waiting to see- plenty of info on rust products online. with reviews
 
In the end that is what I decided to use too Martin - the result so far are very good.
 

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