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Spinal's Mongol Rally Thread

Has it occured to anyone that most of the good Micras and similar vehicles that were left in the UK are already in the hands of grateful new owners in Mongolia already? Statistically year by year their numbers must be decreasing with every rally held mopping them up surely?
 
Scrappage scheme must have depleted the field a touch...
 
Scrappage scheme must have depleted the field a touch...

But every 12 months the newer Micras remaining on the road become a year older…



.
 
Right, so I ended up buying it...

At the end of the day, it is £300. Worst case, over the next 9 months it falls apart and I have a set of spares for whatever micra I buy after; but it gives me a platform to start with.

I don't think I can be that choosy for £300 :p If something better crops up near me, I will jump on it...

Now to find some wheels... Odd question, but do people reckon I can get away with 5mm or 16mm more on the wheels without rubbing?

It has 165/65/14s, I was thinking of grabbing some cheap 13" steelies, and putting 175/70/13s (5mm difference)...

I think Spinal intends competing in the 2014 rally.
It's the 2015 I'm going on, the 2014 is over :)
 
Now to find some wheels... Odd question, but do people reckon I can get away with 5mm or 16mm more on the wheels without rubbing?

It has 165/65/14s, I was thinking of grabbing some cheap 13" steelies, and putting 175/70/13s (5mm difference)...

Watch for brake clearance if contemplating a smaller diameter rim. If there isn't a half inch between the caliper and the 14'' wheel you may toil. Nor would you would want it so tight that any wheel bearing play allowed the wheel to wrench the caliper off its mounts.

Otherwise, probably the most constraining dimension/clearance will be between the tyre inner sidewall at the top and the MacPherson strut. McStrut slopes inward from bottom to top so watch smaller diameter wheel doesn't clash. Wheel spacers would save the day but probably not wanted for this application (added stress on wheel bearings and corrupted steering geometry).

Pretty sure there's room in the arches for bigger, and rubbing there will be relatively easy to resolve I'd imagine (select large hammer....). A slight reduction in available steering lock won't kill you.


It's the 2015 I'm going on, the 2014 is over :)

Ooops! (I have no sense of time....)
 
Watch for brake clearance if contemplating a smaller diameter rim. If there isn't a half inch between the caliper and the 14'' wheel you may toil. Nor would you would want it so tight that any wheel bearing play allowed the wheel to wrench the caliper off its mounts.

Otherwise, probably the most constraining dimension/clearance will be between the tyre inner sidewall at the top and the MacPherson strut. McStrut slopes inward from bottom to top so watch smaller diameter wheel doesn't clash. Wheel spacers would save the day but probably not wanted for this application (added stress on wheel bearings and corrupted steering geometry).

Pretty sure there's room in the arches for bigger, and rubbing there will be relatively easy to resolve I'd imagine (select large hammer....). A slight reduction in available steering lock won't kill you.




Ooops! (I have no sense of time....)

Thanks - the 13" I was looking at come from the micra as well, just an earlier fitment. The 2001 has a 13" space saver, so I'm hoping it wont cause issues with the caliper...

The side arches, I wasn't planning to bash out, but cut out if they caused an issue... was more worried of the struts as mentioned... and maybe hitting the top of the car when going over rough terrain...

hmmm....

M.
 
I know this may sound a bit premature but any chance of keeping this thread going until you've completed the challenge. I've found it interesting so far to see the car selection process and would be keen to see what mods you do and then how you fare including an update when possible throughout the challenge.
I say this as a complete armchair spectator who would never attempt what you are doing but one who sees this attempt as entertaining if not a completely crackpot.
Hats off to you and good luck.
 
If you want local parts availability in Iran and central Asia/CIS Peugeot is the best option. Iran manufactures Pugs locally and about 30% of all cars there are 405s.

Korean cars are also easy to get parts for in that area. It's about the only region that would buy Hyndai's 30 years ago, and the Koreans also never cared about the US trade embargoes, so they have well established parts networks.

If they up the capacity limit to 1.4, grab a Volvo 340. Tough as old boots and the 1.4 is a decent renault unit with easy parts availability.

Looking forward to a daily blog from the event!

You can always get some practice by driving through Yiewsley after dark!
 
If you are taking the rear bumper off consider replacing it with a chunk of RSJ across the back, very handy for getting pushed out of problems by any vehicle that is passing without damaging yours!
Also as regards the wheels/tyres if the Micra can take snowchains then you have a good 15mm clearance all around the standard wheel, a good starting point.
 
Thanks - the 13" I was looking at come from the micra as well, just an earlier fitment. The 2001 has a 13" space saver, so I'm hoping it wont cause issues with the caliper...

Model change was 2002 and I'm guessing you have 1992-2002 car, so 13'' should work.

The side arches, I wasn't planning to bash out, but cut out if they caused an issue... was more worried of the struts as mentioned... and maybe hitting the top of the car when going over rough terrain...

hmmm....

M.

Bumpstops? There probably are already. Ones on the damper rod can be doubled up. Bit of a faff but if the struts are disconnected for drive shaft repair.

Also as regards the wheels/tyres if the Micra can take snowchains then you have a good 15mm clearance all around the standard wheel, a good starting point.

Good point.
Do you have an old surplus to requirements tyre in the size you intend using - to cut open and wrap around the existing wheel/tyre? Pad out with foam sheet or similar if needed and tywrap on. (Like a 'fat suit'!) Should give you the likely contact points re chassis, suspension and bodywork. NB supporting car on jack at wishbone will be more representative of ride height.
 
Some interesting ideas - no spare tyres, but I will soon...

Just bought 4x13" steelies (£20) with tyres (will get rid of these tyres... but maybe keep them in the car as spares depending on space). Going to collect now...

The plan is to buy on 175/70 and one 185/70 (or thereabouts) tyre, fit them and then jump on the car to test... with the old/soft suspensions it currently has, if it bottoms out, it should be easy to tel..

Minz: sure - no problem. Can't promise I'll update here regularly while on router (my satellite internet link is 9600baud); but I'll rig something up to update daily somewhere....

M.
 
I am surprised no one mention Hyundai Accent -very popular in Mongolia. If you are driving through Russia, you may fill the boot with money for the bribes you will have to fork out. The last time I crossed the Mongolia/Russia border, I met 2 of our country men who had been kept at the Russian side of the border for 5 days ! They had run out of Russian money on their way through Russia because of having to pay bribes.
 
forgot to say, after a quick HPI check, it's come back as a CAT-C...

Hmmmmmm....

What's the consensus? Bargepole or test my luck?

As long as you get the V5 and can get it insured, Cat-C isn't an issue as you don't intend to sell it again.

If the engine size can be stretched a little , these would have been worthwhile.

Larger, tough, good ride for the rough roads, do go off road well and can be raised for floods.
Parts availability would be good as the mechanicals are standard PSA stuff.
Contrary to popular belief, hydropneumatic suspension is recommended for rough and dirty terrain work as it is tougher than springs and dampers.


Used Citroen Bx 1.1 11, Maia, Portugal, Petrol, Manual - OOYYO
 
So now, I need a crap car to drive to Mongolia in. Current rule are that the car can't have more than a 1l engine, though rumour suggests that this year it's raised to 1.2l. Haven't found out yet (manual isn't out).

Quote of t'internet suggests the engine size limit may be somewhat higher than the 1,000cc you think.

"I have signed up to do the Mongol Rally this summer, an adventure that involves driving a totally unsuitable vehicle over 10000 miles from London to Mongolia (and back!) in order to help raise money for Médecins Sans Frontières and Cool Earth. Our team has just bought a Rover 827 limousine"
 
I think the rover limo was used in 2014... not 2015.

Daft cars can often bypass the engine rules iirc.
 
The Rover was 2014, but I though the limit was being raised, not lowered. The pictures show soem good reasons for not using a standard body height, long wheelbase, car.
It beaches easily.

The answer is simple, use a daft car. How daft is daft?
 
Do you have an old surplus to requirements tyre in the size you intend using - to cut open and wrap around the existing wheel/tyre? Pad out with foam sheet or similar if needed and tywrap on. (Like a 'fat suit'!) Should give you the likely contact points re chassis, suspension and bodywork. NB supporting car on jack at wishbone will be more representative of ride height.

Do as we did at work for testing snowchain clearances, well almost the same.

Get some builders expanding foam and just spray a smooth bead around a section of the tyre from bead to bead, once it is set off and well stuck turn the wheel slowly to knock off the excess, whats left will show you the clearance.

Although we used to fill the wheel arch cavity with foam (not builders foam, a two part mix) with a plastic bag around the wheel assembly, when cured just drive the vehicle slowly until most is worn away, then onto the handling circuit to wear away the tight bits and what is left is the clearance, and can be compared to the computer model.

But you get the idea I am sure. ;)
 
Do as we did at work for testing snowchain clearances, well almost the same.

Get some builders expanding foam and just spray a smooth bead around a section of the tyre from bead to bead, once it is set off and well stuck turn the wheel slowly to knock off the excess, whats left will show you the clearance.

Brilliant!

But you get the idea I am sure. ;)

That's what I was hoping throwing ideas about would lead to - someone coming along with ones better than mine! I'm not disappointed!
 

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