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The EV fact thread

I may have missed something in this part of the debate but it’s not clear to me why houses would need 3 phase supplies in order to have an EV charger on the drive. Huge numbers right now operate perfectly well on single phase.

I assume you can run a more powerful (i.e. faster) charger from a 3-phase supply:

 
What I am quoting is the loss from a rapid (DC) charger to a BEV, which is DC-DC. The c87% figure I mentioned was the equivalent AC-DC.
The losses appear to be incurred in the AC to DC rectification and are invisible to the end user with rapid DC charging where the rectification is done upstream. It will be there in real time from the grid and also from the rectification performed in charging buffering batteries. Where it becomes a visible number is as BTB500 suggests:

I assume that would just be factored in to the pence per output kWh rate you pay.
Maybe 60p/kW.hr isn't price gouging but a reflection of incurred losses (or more likely - a bit of both).
 
I assume you can run a more powerful (i.e. faster) charger from a 3-phase supply:

You can but few EVs can take AC charge at higher than about 7kw - my model 3 will do 11kw, and some early Model S cars could do 22kw (so maximum on 3 phase). But the charging pattern means it really isn’t necessary - even restricting charge to my cheap 6 hour overnight I can get from 20% to 70% overnight assuming as much as your 20% charging losses. And in practise with a flexible EV tariff such as Inteligent Octopus I can charge for even longer at the cheap rate. The upside for 3 phase really wouldn’t make it worth it for car charging.
 
ADAC's data is aimed at cost to the owner, so total mains AC kWh consumed for a charge (what you are actually paying your energy supplier for). The figures I've seen relate to domestic wall boxes and 'granny cables' where you can easily measure the kWh taken from the mains supply. Not sure how it would work with commercial fast chargers ... presumably they report the kWh they output and total cost (free chargers excepted of course ;)). Unless the charger calculates and reports its own internal losses you'd have no way of knowing what it consumed in converting to DC - I assume that would just be factored in to the pence per output kWh rate you pay. Losses in the charge cable (potentially quite significant at high currents) couldn't be identified unless you reconciled what the charger output against what the car received. Losses from the input socket on the car onwards could be tracked and reported by the car's systems, but I don't know whether this is done or not. Apart from the extra complexity involved it presumably wouldn't really be in the car maker's interests to highlight the internal charging losses that occur.
Thanks - granny chargers are I believe less efficient than 32amp wall boxes - from what I’ve read, the percentage loss using AC charging is higher with lower currents (and granny chargers are typically only run at about 10 amps). So I could believe Adac’s 20% loss if it included a decent amount of that kind of charging - but that doesn’t therefore indicate a generic 20% loss applicable to general EV charging, as it is dependent on the mix in their calculations.

Don’t think car makers would be threatened by these sort of losses though, given that the overall efficiency of a BEV is still way better than any ICE. And presumably the comparison with the couple of FCVs would be similar given the need to generate hydrogen and then convert to electricity?
 
The losses appear to be incurred in the AC to DC rectification and are invisible to the end user with rapid DC charging where the rectification is done upstream.

There will still be some losses in the DC charge cable to the vehicle (particularly at 500A or whatever), inside the car, and in the battery charge process itself. But I think you're right that most of the losses are in the AC to DC conversion, which is why AC charging (whether at home or commercially) is 'visibly' less efficient. It's also possible that conversion to DC done in the car is a bit less efficient than in a commercial fast charger as keeping the onboard unit small & light will be a factor.
 
There will still be some losses in the DC charge cable to the vehicle (particularly at 500A or whatever), inside the car, and in the battery charge process itself. But I think you're right that most of the losses are in the AC to DC conversion, which is why AC charging (whether at home or commercially) is 'visibly' less efficient. It's also possible that conversion to DC done in the car is a bit less efficient than in a commercial fast charger as keeping the onboard unit small & light will be a factor.
That last part about onboard... chimes with PXW's comments about efficiency being greater at higher currents (wall box) - which is the opposite of what is generally found with current.
 
Thanks - granny chargers are I believe less efficient than 32amp wall boxes - from what I’ve read, the percentage loss using AC charging is higher with lower currents (and granny chargers are typically only run at about 10 amps). So I could believe Adac’s 20% loss if it included a decent amount of that kind of charging - but that doesn’t therefore indicate a generic 20% loss applicable to general EV charging, as it is dependent on the mix in their calculations.

The ADAC data was for granny charging plus wall boxes at two different rates. This definitely varied a lot with car make/model and charge rate - they quoted an overall range of 10-30% loss for granny cable use. The original article only quoted actual figures for a very small sample of cars, but a few more were mentioned elsewhere. It did confirm that higher AC charge rates were more efficient.

DC fast charging would be much more difficult to factor into cost per mile calculations (which is what ADAC are after) due to the huge variation in cost per kWh.
 
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OK here's one ADAC article which is an interesting read in general but also gives some specific examples of battery size and kWh required for a full charge from a 22 kW wallbox at 23C.


The 3 columns in the vehicle data table are:
  • measured range in their 'Ecotest'
  • gross/net battery size (manufacturer's data)
  • ADAC's measured kWh for a full charge (22 kW wallbox at 23C, as above)
The three vehicles specifically mentioned in the text have charging losses of 19.2% (BMW iX), 23.6% (Renault Twingo Electric) and 20.8% (Ford Mustang Mach-E). Those are all based on the net (usable) battery capacity. I've not been through all the other data in the table, but picking out the Tesla Model 3 that required 70.5 kWh for a charge - 20.9% loss on an assumed usable battery capacity of 57.5 kWh (not given in the table - perhaps Tesla don't quote this), or 17.5% based on the total battery size (60 kWh).
 
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AFAIK none of those can take 22kw AC. I have no idea how that would impact the loss, but there must be some effect.

But the point remains - the BEV is far far more efficient, despite these losses. And whatever ADAC’s methodology, certainly the Tesla forums don’t seem to be seeing that sort of loss
 
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And whatever ADAC’s methodology, certainly the Tesla forums don’t seem to be seeing that sort of loss

How do Tesla owners measure the total AC power taken from the mains supply when charging?

The charging loss ADAC recorded on the Tesla "Model Y Maximum Range AWD" was much lower at 12.2%, btw.
 
Typically looking at the draw from the mains (viewable on the app that controls the wall box) and looking at the charge received by the car (viewable on the Tesla app). Those who have Tesla chargers may well have a more sophisticated interface - I don’t (I have a myenergi Zappi) so I
can’t comment on that.
 
That Model Y figure is much closer to reports on the Tesla forums
 
Typically looking at the draw from the mains (viewable on the app that controls the wall box) and looking at the charge received by the car (viewable on the Tesla app). Those who have Tesla chargers may well have a more sophisticated interface - I don’t (I have a myenergi Zappi) so I
can’t comment on that.

OK thanks, maybe someone who uses a Tesla home charger can comment on whether that provides total kWh consumed from the mains during a charge.
 
I may have missed something in this part of the debate but it’s not clear to me why houses would need 3 phase supplies in order to have an EV charger on the drive. Huge numbers right now operate perfectly well on single phase.

EVs can generally use AC charging up to 22kW, although most home chargers are only 7kW or 11kW. Will this be possible without 3-Phase supply?
 
OK thanks, maybe someone who uses a Tesla home charger can comment on whether that provides total kWh consumed from the mains during a charge.

Any loss must cause something to heat up - what gets hot then the most - the charger box, the cable, or something inside the car (inverter or battery etc)?

Actually, thinking about it, the cable itself never feels warm, not even on a cold night (on my EV, anyway). Must be some components inside the car getting hot?
 
EVs can generally use AC charging up to 22kW, although most home chargers are only 7kW or 11kW. Will this be possible without 3-Phase supply?
You need 3 phase for 11 or 22kw charging - but relatively few cars can take 22kw. Loads can take 11kw, but personally I would question whether the uplift from 7.4 to 11 was worth the infrastructure change.

List of cars and their AC charging rates Here
 
The rather obvious argument against a home charger and in favour of a (slow) granny cable, is that the electricity provided via the granny cable cannot be taxed...... I have no doubt that this will be a major consideration for some ;)
 
From the linked piece i post @ 3089, another link to this >> Tipps für mehr Reichweite bei Kälte
Sheds light on the cold weather range. Even if prepared to eschew all forms of cabin heating, heating the battery is unavoidable. As is the heating up of an ICE. Not many ICEs that weigh 500kg though.
 
Any loss must cause something to heat up - what gets hot then the most - the charger box, the cable, or something inside the car (inverter or battery etc)?

Actually, thinking about it, the cable itself never feels warm, not even on a cold night (on my EV, anyway). Must be some components inside the car getting hot?

I posted this before but here's ADAC's breakdown of typical losses when home charging from a standard power socket, totalling 10-30%:

1708023221119.png

So 5-10% in the on-board charging unit discussed earlier, which I believe is actively cooled to dissipate the heat. Under 1% in the charge cable.

Interesting point about 5-15% loss due to charging the 12V battery (depending on state of charge I guess) - not obvious.
 

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