Dieselman
Banned
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- Jul 13, 2003
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- 34,199
- Car
- Peugeot 403 Convertible
Dead easy. Clip together at the tightest selection then crimp the sides of the raised section in using pincers.
I did one on a CV joint a week ago, it took seconds.
Dead easy. Clip together at the tightest selection then crimp the sides of the raised section in using pincers.
I did one on a CV joint a week ago, it took seconds.
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2008
- Messages
- 2,751
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
- Car
- E280CDI SPORTS ESTATE and C200 KOMPRESSOR SE Coupe Auto (1.8 lit petrol)
I did not renew the tie rod outer end, as there was nothing wrong with it.
That can be done at any time, if it fails.
No need to dis-assemble the rest of the tie rod.
If you renew the outer part, you need to break it from the little steering arm.
Again - That's been there for ever and (as I found) not every ball-joint breaker will fit.
Personally, I would not change it unless it is shot.
That can be done at any time, if it fails.
No need to dis-assemble the rest of the tie rod.
If you renew the outer part, you need to break it from the little steering arm.
Again - That's been there for ever and (as I found) not every ball-joint breaker will fit.
Personally, I would not change it unless it is shot.
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2008
- Messages
- 2,751
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
- Car
- E280CDI SPORTS ESTATE and C200 KOMPRESSOR SE Coupe Auto (1.8 lit petrol)
"Finger-trouble" on my part.
I had no problem with the small clip.
The big one just did not appear to want to go.
(Clever people at MB)
Dieselman
Banned
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2003
- Messages
- 34,199
- Car
- Peugeot 403 Convertible
I was referring to the large clip.
John,
how did you suppost the steering rack? Did you just hold it with another large spanner on the shinny bar/ piston part?
Cheers.
Olivier
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2008
- Messages
- 2,751
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
- Car
- E280CDI SPORTS ESTATE and C200 KOMPRESSOR SE Coupe Auto (1.8 lit petrol)
There are flats on the inner member of the steering rack.
You can get an open-ended spanner on that ... Make sure it's a good fit.
Support the end of the spanner and then turn the tie-rod with the 36mm spanner.
It unscrews in the normal direction.
It is lock-tighted and you will need some serious grunt to loosen it.
Do not try to undo the tie-rod without supporting the steering rack inner member in this way.
Otherwise, I fear it would be knackered.
Good Luck.
Re-assembly is easy.
It's just the reverse process.
I put a spot of locktite on the threads and tightened it as tight as I could manage by hand.
You can get an open-ended spanner on that ... Make sure it's a good fit.
Support the end of the spanner and then turn the tie-rod with the 36mm spanner.
It unscrews in the normal direction.
It is lock-tighted and you will need some serious grunt to loosen it.
Do not try to undo the tie-rod without supporting the steering rack inner member in this way.
Otherwise, I fear it would be knackered.
Good Luck.
Re-assembly is easy.
It's just the reverse process.
I put a spot of locktite on the threads and tightened it as tight as I could manage by hand.
Thank you John,
great info.
I saw those flat grove on the rack. I got the proper spanner for this I think.
new tricks is to use a pipe wrench instead of the 36mm spanner.
Only tightened by hand? Why not a bit more with the spanner?
To be continued
Oh, I couldn't read what you wrote on the bugger in your picture?
great info.
I saw those flat grove on the rack. I got the proper spanner for this I think.
new tricks is to use a pipe wrench instead of the 36mm spanner.
Only tightened by hand? Why not a bit more with the spanner?
To be continued
Oh, I couldn't read what you wrote on the bugger in your picture?
Dieselman
Banned
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2003
- Messages
- 34,199
- Car
- Peugeot 403 Convertible
36mm.
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2008
- Messages
- 2,751
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
- Car
- E280CDI SPORTS ESTATE and C200 KOMPRESSOR SE Coupe Auto (1.8 lit petrol)
I meant using the spanner with my hand.
LOL:bannana:
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2008
- Messages
- 2,751
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
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- E280CDI SPORTS ESTATE and C200 KOMPRESSOR SE Coupe Auto (1.8 lit petrol)
Was it very tight ?
A pipe wrench would be OK.
Even if the surface of the joint is a bit damaged, there is no real harm done.
A pipe wrench would be OK.
Even if the surface of the joint is a bit damaged, there is no real harm done.
Tight? I can only guess as I didn't pry hard, I secured the wrench and jack it up.
I thought a 2 tons jack pushing it up would be a little more efficient then me old body under the beast
I didn't bother holding the steering rack either, I should have done it but I can be bold
The replacement I had was 32mm and I had a spanner for this, then there is no mark on it
All good
, I think anyway.
It was that easy that I am thinking of doing the other side on the same time then the wishbone lower arm when I got them from Franey
and then go for an alignement.
I thought a 2 tons jack pushing it up would be a little more efficient then me old body under the beast
I didn't bother holding the steering rack either, I should have done it but I can be bold
The replacement I had was 32mm and I had a spanner for this, then there is no mark on it
All good
, I think anyway.It was that easy that I am thinking of doing the other side on the same time then the wishbone lower arm when I got them from Franey
and then go for an alignement.
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2008
- Messages
- 2,751
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
- Car
- E280CDI SPORTS ESTATE and C200 KOMPRESSOR SE Coupe Auto (1.8 lit petrol)
Hi Olivier.
Is it the near-side or the offside joint you have changed ?
I changed the offside (driver's side) and the way you describe the use of the jack would not have worked for me.
I put a spanner on the steering rack inner member and put a block under it to support the steering rack so that it would not turn.
I then turned the tie rod (the 36mm part) against it and unscrewed it..
So - No strain on the steering rack parts.
When screwing in the new part, I just had one hand on each spanner.
Is it the near-side or the offside joint you have changed ?
I changed the offside (driver's side) and the way you describe the use of the jack would not have worked for me.
I put a spanner on the steering rack inner member and put a block under it to support the steering rack so that it would not turn.
I then turned the tie rod (the 36mm part) against it and unscrewed it..
So - No strain on the steering rack parts.
When screwing in the new part, I just had one hand on each spanner.
Hi John,
It was the near side ( passenger).
Its the same on each side, I cannot see what would be different or what could be on the way? The only difference would be where the wrench would be, on the ns it'll be under the chassis while on the of it'll be more at the front, this to be able to move it up.
again I should have hold the steering rack as a precaution but didn't. I wedge the spanner and use the jack on its handle to push it up, looking closely at the rack as it was not supported, and it worked.
Then I just use one hand to screw it back tight with a bit of old loctide...
Oh, to unscrew it I move the wheel on the right side for the rack to be as much out as possible, then when I put it back together I return the rack in the middle.
It was the near side ( passenger).
Its the same on each side, I cannot see what would be different or what could be on the way? The only difference would be where the wrench would be, on the ns it'll be under the chassis while on the of it'll be more at the front, this to be able to move it up.
again I should have hold the steering rack as a precaution but didn't. I wedge the spanner and use the jack on its handle to push it up, looking closely at the rack as it was not supported, and it worked.
Then I just use one hand to screw it back tight with a bit of old loctide...
Oh, to unscrew it I move the wheel on the right side for the rack to be as much out as possible, then when I put it back together I return the rack in the middle.
