I hope you don't mind me asking, but where did you get the tool from? The dealers? I need to do the delivery valve seals on my 210, but MB of Edinburgh informed me that they didn't sell tools.
Thx,
Duncan
W124 E300d Fuel Lines
- Thread starter SilverSaloon
- Start date
I hope you don't mind me asking, but where did you get the tool from? The dealers? I need to do the delivery valve seals on my 210, but MB of Edinburgh informed me that they didn't sell tools.
Thx,
Duncan
OP
OP
SilverSaloon
MB Enthusiast
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- 1994 W124 E300D Estate, 1985 R107 280SL
Yes I got it from MB Edinburgh, but i'm down as trade. I had no problem in ordering the part. If you like I'd be happy to buy it for you and you can come and pick it up from me. I am in dunfermline. I would need payment prior to this though. PM me if interested and i'll find out exactly what it cost me.
thanks
derek
Dieselman
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Last edited:
OP
OP
SilverSaloon
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2004
- Messages
- 7,758
- Car
- 1994 W124 E300D Estate, 1985 R107 280SL
OK, confirmation of part numbers to do delivery valve repair (and clear fuel lines) on a W124 with 606 engine:
The job is the same as ParrotOfDoom's How-to apart from the difference in inlet manifold removal. Link HERE
Once thats removed then its pretty much the same. You will need to replace the corner and straight breather bungs as below.
Part numbers needed:
W617589010900 - Special tool (if MB wont sell you this, search online - you can also buy it elsewhere) Price: Approx £25 i think
A6061410080 - IM gasket (might be able to re-use it if the manifold has been off recently) Price: £10.11
A6060160081 - rubber corner breather bung - these break when you remove the manifold. You need 6 of these. You may get away without removing all of these or they may not break but they probably will!!! Get 6! Price £1.76 each
A6060160181 - rubber straight breather bung - also breaks so you will need 3 of these. You may get away without removing all of these or they may not break but they probably will!!! Get 3! Price £2.99 each
A6030780141 - high pressure fuel line clips - will probably break when you remove them so you will need a few spare just incase. You may get away with re-using, so 3 of these should be ordered just incase. Price: £1.06 each
A0049974540 - rubber o-ring (this is the oring causing you your leak). You need 6 of these - I got 8 just incase something went wrong when torquing them down... something to consider for the price! Price: £0.47 each
A0179974148 - copper washer - not 100% required IMO but cheap so worth replacing anyway. 6 is all you need. Price: £0.35 each
Additional/Optional:
when you are doing this job, and because you have leaks from the delivery valves, I suggest replacing all your clear fuel lines aswell as if your DVS are worn, then these will be too:
you need one of each of the following. You dont have to do these at all if you dont want to!
A6050701432 - Price £5.12
A6060700532 - Price £8.52
A6010705332 - Price £5.52 (this comes with the additional new banjo & ring i think)
A6060700032 - Price £4.64
A6060700232 - Price £6.05
Also, when you are here, replace:
A6019970148 (larger o-ring on pre-filter) - Price £0.59.
I'd also be tempted to renew the main screw on fuel filter: A6010900352 and also clean or renew the pre-filter A6010920105.
All prices are without any discount. You should be able to secure a 10% discount on all these parts.
The job is the same as ParrotOfDoom's How-to apart from the difference in inlet manifold removal. Link HERE
Once thats removed then its pretty much the same. You will need to replace the corner and straight breather bungs as below.
Part numbers needed:
W617589010900 - Special tool (if MB wont sell you this, search online - you can also buy it elsewhere) Price: Approx £25 i think
A6061410080 - IM gasket (might be able to re-use it if the manifold has been off recently) Price: £10.11
A6060160081 - rubber corner breather bung - these break when you remove the manifold. You need 6 of these. You may get away without removing all of these or they may not break but they probably will!!! Get 6! Price £1.76 each
A6060160181 - rubber straight breather bung - also breaks so you will need 3 of these. You may get away without removing all of these or they may not break but they probably will!!! Get 3! Price £2.99 each
A6030780141 - high pressure fuel line clips - will probably break when you remove them so you will need a few spare just incase. You may get away with re-using, so 3 of these should be ordered just incase. Price: £1.06 each
A0049974540 - rubber o-ring (this is the oring causing you your leak). You need 6 of these - I got 8 just incase something went wrong when torquing them down... something to consider for the price! Price: £0.47 each
A0179974148 - copper washer - not 100% required IMO but cheap so worth replacing anyway. 6 is all you need. Price: £0.35 each
Additional/Optional:
when you are doing this job, and because you have leaks from the delivery valves, I suggest replacing all your clear fuel lines aswell as if your DVS are worn, then these will be too:
you need one of each of the following. You dont have to do these at all if you dont want to!
A6050701432 - Price £5.12
A6060700532 - Price £8.52
A6010705332 - Price £5.52 (this comes with the additional new banjo & ring i think)
A6060700032 - Price £4.64
A6060700232 - Price £6.05
Also, when you are here, replace:
A6019970148 (larger o-ring on pre-filter) - Price £0.59.
I'd also be tempted to renew the main screw on fuel filter: A6010900352 and also clean or renew the pre-filter A6010920105.
All prices are without any discount. You should be able to secure a 10% discount on all these parts.
Last edited:
Replacing the Center Fuel Line From Fuel Filter To IP
First of all, thanks to everyone who has posted on this thread. I very much appreciate all the comments on the replacement and repair of these fuel lines for the W124 E300D. In Silver Saloon's post on the center fuel line coming out of the main fuel filter connecting to the injection pump, he indicates that his fitting at the injection pump was the of the plastic clip type, yet the illustration shows the fitting to be that of a banjo bolt.
In the illustration, fuel line #107 with banjo fitting #113 and crush washer #116 can be installed where the original fitting was a plastic connection. You'll know this when you buy the part and the dealer shows that your model engine based on your VIN number has this modification. You'll have to trust your parts supplier to make sure this modification applys to your engine. That said, the IP housing does have internal threads to accept the banjo bolt that you can't see without the use of a flashlight (torch) and a mirror. When buying the fuel line and banjo bolt through your part's supplier, you will need TWO crush washers, not just the one they show in the illustration. The washers are installed on each side of the bulbous metal fitting on the end of the fuel line. ; one crush washer against the IP housing and one crush washer against the banjo bolt head. You can install this assembly from above without removing the intake manifold by using a 17mm socket. I found it easier to thread the banjo fitting into the IP housing by hand to make sure that it wasn't cross threaded. It is fussy to get the bolt in and you will wonder if it will thread, but stick with it and you'll get it done. I found it easier to leave the upper end of the plastic o-ringed fuel line free from its attachment to the main fuel filter to get this banjo bolt threading started. You'll have plenty of play to make this upper fuel line push to fit plastic fitting mate up with the fuel filter housing before tightening the banjo bolt. In other words, you'll be able to line up the plastic fitting with the fuel filter housing as long as you don't put the final torque onto the banjo bolt until it is nearly mated with the crush washers and IP housing. Once the banjo bolt threads in by hand and you are sure that it is not cross threaded, reach down and put the 17mm socket on as best you can, then add an extension to your rachet so that you can put the final tightening to the banjo bolt in the cavity between the wheel well and the washer bottle. There is not enough room in the area right at the banjo bolt to put on a rachet.
My suggestion is that you convince yourself that there are threads internal to the injection pump for the banjo bolt by using the flashlight and mirror prior to buying the parts. You'll be amazed to see that the threads are there! Especially if you ask a dealer technician for advice and they tell you that they are not!!
The parts that I used on my 1995 E300D were:
6010705332 - Fuel Line, 1 each (Item #107 in the illustration)
7603012113 - Ring, General, 2 each (Crush washers # 116 in the illustration)
6019900863 - Screw, 1 each (Banjo Bolt #113 in the illustration)
I live in the states and our prices are outrageous! The banjo bolt cost $16.28 US, the crush washers were $2.43 US each, and the fuel line cost $20.48 US. Good luck!
First of all, thanks to everyone who has posted on this thread. I very much appreciate all the comments on the replacement and repair of these fuel lines for the W124 E300D. In Silver Saloon's post on the center fuel line coming out of the main fuel filter connecting to the injection pump, he indicates that his fitting at the injection pump was the of the plastic clip type, yet the illustration shows the fitting to be that of a banjo bolt.
In the illustration, fuel line #107 with banjo fitting #113 and crush washer #116 can be installed where the original fitting was a plastic connection. You'll know this when you buy the part and the dealer shows that your model engine based on your VIN number has this modification. You'll have to trust your parts supplier to make sure this modification applys to your engine. That said, the IP housing does have internal threads to accept the banjo bolt that you can't see without the use of a flashlight (torch) and a mirror. When buying the fuel line and banjo bolt through your part's supplier, you will need TWO crush washers, not just the one they show in the illustration. The washers are installed on each side of the bulbous metal fitting on the end of the fuel line. ; one crush washer against the IP housing and one crush washer against the banjo bolt head. You can install this assembly from above without removing the intake manifold by using a 17mm socket. I found it easier to thread the banjo fitting into the IP housing by hand to make sure that it wasn't cross threaded. It is fussy to get the bolt in and you will wonder if it will thread, but stick with it and you'll get it done. I found it easier to leave the upper end of the plastic o-ringed fuel line free from its attachment to the main fuel filter to get this banjo bolt threading started. You'll have plenty of play to make this upper fuel line push to fit plastic fitting mate up with the fuel filter housing before tightening the banjo bolt. In other words, you'll be able to line up the plastic fitting with the fuel filter housing as long as you don't put the final torque onto the banjo bolt until it is nearly mated with the crush washers and IP housing. Once the banjo bolt threads in by hand and you are sure that it is not cross threaded, reach down and put the 17mm socket on as best you can, then add an extension to your rachet so that you can put the final tightening to the banjo bolt in the cavity between the wheel well and the washer bottle. There is not enough room in the area right at the banjo bolt to put on a rachet.
My suggestion is that you convince yourself that there are threads internal to the injection pump for the banjo bolt by using the flashlight and mirror prior to buying the parts. You'll be amazed to see that the threads are there! Especially if you ask a dealer technician for advice and they tell you that they are not!!
The parts that I used on my 1995 E300D were:
6010705332 - Fuel Line, 1 each (Item #107 in the illustration)
7603012113 - Ring, General, 2 each (Crush washers # 116 in the illustration)
6019900863 - Screw, 1 each (Banjo Bolt #113 in the illustration)
I live in the states and our prices are outrageous! The banjo bolt cost $16.28 US, the crush washers were $2.43 US each, and the fuel line cost $20.48 US. Good luck!
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bigshineybike
Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2008
- Messages
- 38
- Location
- based Surrey UK
- Car
- W124 300d estate and W203 320 CDi estate
banjo
All the above is a great and comprehensive list. I printed it and took into my local Mercedes dealer. Got all the parts he was impressed I had this infomation.One note though;
Part number 6010705332 "line" does not come with the banjo bolt. that part is 601 9900863 and you will also need two of the washers 760 301 2113
All the above is a great and comprehensive list. I printed it and took into my local Mercedes dealer. Got all the parts he was impressed I had this infomation.One note though;
Part number 6010705332 "line" does not come with the banjo bolt. that part is 601 9900863 and you will also need two of the washers 760 301 2113
