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W202 Rear electric window failed

KillerHERTZ

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May 21, 2003
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19,457
Location
Cambs
Car
SL63 AMG
For the past 2 months my rear passenger electric window has not worked, although I can still hear the motor working/grinding the window would not move.

So yesterday I decided to investigate by taking the door apart.

door2.jpg


It appears the mental cord that the motor pulls up & down has snapped (rusted through as it appears?!?)

Im sure I can simply untangle it and refit a new one as the motor seems fine.

Question is, how on earth can you remove the motor? As far as I can tell its attached via the vertical beam by 2x torx screws (see picture).

door1.jpg


Problem is, how the hell can you unscrew the torx screw? its facing the inner door panel with only 1" clearance?
 
take the vertical support out and the motor comes with it ?

my guess is that it's held in with the two screws at the bottom and a friction fit at the top
 
As far as I can tell the vertical support appears to be welded to the door frame though. 2nd thing I checked :(
 
it looks like it a different colour to the door panels in your pic which suggests it was fitted after the car was painted, if that's thecase then it wont be welded in - is there a screw which goes up from the underside of the door? Are those two gold coloured fasteners near it's base rivets or screws and what do they hold in?

Andy
 
mmm, I see what you mean. I was sure they were rivets at the time - I will have another look at the weekend.

Good idea :)


Anyone taken out a motor in the past?
 
Karl , can you buy the cable seperately ?

If not , depending on the end terminations i might be able to get one made up for you at Dads place in stainless cable...

It will depend on the ends and if they have the size in stock though ...

If the cable is only a tenner from MB though , might be better to go that route, but if you can't buy them , let me know.
 
Not sure TBH, will check with them, if not that would be great mate!
 
Drill the rivets out and then remove the regulator. Then remove the motor from the regulator and then fit a new regulator. It is very simple and there is no need to replace the cables and you cant buy them seperatly anyway.

I hope I am not telling you how to suck eggs but I hope this helps
 
Does the new regulator come with the steel cable that has rusted through then ?
 
Cheers, do the regulators include new cables then?
 
Oooop, looks like we both asked the same question simultaneously .... :o
 

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