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Which Engine Oil?

Oil, dose my head in, on bikes iv always run semi synthetic but that was due to a wet clutch ect and as I run a nitrous shot of 100bhp, the fully I found cause more slip and burning.

Don't know about MBs, but most of my other cars ive checked specs and run Mannol to match car, as I only do 6,000 year mileage and change oil and filter every year a week before MOT never had an issue, just checked and they do an approved spec oil for my CDi, I always assumed as spec ok and made in Germany cant be a bad thing.

Just on price , given time I can find £ 10 lifters of Mannol for £34 for 10 litres, MB oil on eBay 10 litres £ 45 for 10, good price of £68 for 20

big names are at sometimes silly prices

so far no ill effects, I check specs of oil and see if matches OEM specs and buy that
 
Ive been using Mannol 5w-30 Meeting 229.3 for the last 3 changes but i always change at 4-6k miles anyway.

It costs £34 for 20 Litres. Amazingly cheap for fully synth meeting the MB Spec.


Cant fault it. Get an oil change for under £15 inc filter each time!

Thats my opinion ive never had an issue, Its much better to buy cheap and replace every 4K than buy Genuine and replace every 12K IMO
 
Ive been using Mannol 5w-30 Meeting 229.3 for the last 3 changes but i always change at 4-6k miles anyway.

It costs £34 for 20 Litres. Amazingly cheap for fully synth meeting the MB Spec.


Cant fault it. Get an oil change for under £15 inc filter each time!

Thats my opinion ive never had an issue, Its much better to buy cheap and replace every 4K than buy Genuine and replace every 12K IMO


good price that for oil
#
 
Ive been using Mannol 5w-30 Meeting 229.3 for the last 3 changes but i always change at 4-6k miles anyway.

It costs £34 for 20 Litres. Amazingly cheap for fully synth meeting the MB Spec.


Cant fault it. Get an oil change for under £15 inc filter each time!

Thats my opinion ive never had an issue, Its much better to buy cheap and replace every 4K than buy Genuine and replace every 12K IMO


Link to product ?
 
Not what I'd call fully synthetic .

Time to upgrade your oil...
Im sure there are better oils out there.

I wouldnt want to use it for any more than 6k-8k. but im a strong believer in change every 4 k instead of genuine at 12k.



Why is it not fully synthetics becuase its Hydrosynthetic?
I can only speak of my experience with it, and it works fine for my application. it comes out nearly the same colour as it goes in usually
 
Sounds like your egr isnt going like a jack hammer unlike some .

Severely hydrocracked mineral is oil basestock group III , that by a North American Court ruling is allowed to be called a synthetic .

True lab produced synthetics are PAO and Esters , groups IV and V respectively.

For a complete oil , use one that contains all 3 , that way you benefit from each groups individuals qualities , and that's exactly what I use..
 
Sounds like your egr isnt going like a jack hammer unlike some .

Severely hydrocracked mineral is oil basestock group III , that by a North American Court ruling is allowed to be called a synthetic .

True lab produced synthetics are PAO and Esters , groups IV and V respectively.

For a complete oil , use one that contains all 3 , that way you benefit from each groups individuals qualities , and that's exactly what I use..
The reason my EGR isnt going like a jack hammer is very simple. ive remapped it out haha.... thatll have a huge part to do with my nice and clean oil, ive also removed the rocker cover at 80,000 and not even a sign of wear on any of the cams and the rockers are in great shape...


im sure it would be better with all three elements like you stated, but i dont have a spare £60/70 per oil change, i much prefer spending £15 for what i consider to be fully synthetic (ish) oil. its alot better than semi or mineral...


my car is 2003. if it was 2019 i wouldnt be doing that. but in my scenario i cant see that itll hurt.
 
Oil, dose my head in, on bikes iv always run semi synthetic but that was due to a wet clutch ect and as I run a nitrous shot of 100bhp, the fully I found cause more slip and burning.

Don't know about MBs, but most of my other cars ive checked specs and run Mannol to match car, as I only do 6,000 year mileage and change oil and filter every year a week before MOT never had an issue, just checked and they do an approved spec oil for my CDi, I always assumed as spec ok and made in Germany cant be a bad thing.

Just on price , given time I can find £ 10 lifters of Mannol for £34 for 10 litres, MB oil on eBay 10 litres £ 45 for 10, good price of £68 for 20

big names are at sometimes silly prices

so far no ill effects, I check specs of oil and see if matches OEM specs and buy that
The name is unimportant. MB simplifies the oil choise for you, just go with any oil that meets the relevant MB Spec Sheet for your engine. Any differences between brands producing oil to the same MB Spec Sheet will be insuginifact. Assuming you are not racing the car, or expect the engine to last for several laps around the equator. Correct oil spec and regular oil changes is all a modern MB car needs.
 
The reason my EGR isnt going like a jack hammer is very simple. ive remapped it out haha.... thatll have a huge part to do with my nice and clean oil, ive also removed the rocker cover at 80,000 and not even a sign of wear on any of the cams and the rockers are in great shape...


im sure it would be better with all three elements like you stated, but i dont have a spare £60/70 per oil change, i much prefer spending £15 for what i consider to be fully synthetic (ish) oil. its alot better than semi or mineral...


my car is 2003. if it was 2019 i wouldnt be doing that. but in my scenario i cant see that itll hurt.


£60-70 !

That's why engine oil is the most misunderstood , misquoted , subject on any car forum .

Good guess on the egr :)

When it clicks it's so simple and eye opening , most of which is 'marketing' .

There is no need to adhere to manufacturer specs or manufacturer approval if there isn't a particular reason which then allows you the freedom to pick wisely at ordinary oil prices .
 
£60-70 !

That's why engine oil is the most misunderstood , misquoted , subject on any car forum .

Good guess on the egr :)

When it clicks it's so simple and eye opening , most of which is 'marketing' .

There is no need to adhere to manufacturer specs or manufacturer approval if there isn't a particular reason which then allows you the freedom to pick wisely at ordinary oil prices .
how much would you expect 7.3 litres of the oil you would recommend for this car to cost? its a bullet proof OM648.

Your EGR guess what very good indeed ahah. ive seen a 6mph average increase.


Cant stand the idea of exhaust being put into a clean manifold
 
...There is no need to adhere to manufacturer specs or manufacturer approval if there isn't a particular reason which then allows you the freedom to pick wisely at ordinary oil prices ....

Okay.... that's one way of looking at it.
 
Indeed all wrong , and that's just one reason out of several .

Sub £30 , and that's expensive !
Really???? ive only been finding 5 litres for £40+ so i need 1 and a half. would you mind pointing me in a direction of this oil?


Im a student so everything is on a shoestring. i do all the work to my car myself using WIS and loads of swearing and its still surviving so i guess im doing something right.
 
Let us begin with oil basestock groups and additive package concentration first .

MB 229.3 Vs VW 507.00 ! ?
ive googled both but nothing seems to link them? are they the same stuff but ones cheaper due to it being VW? im not experienced into the Synthetic Oil world. Im more pour and go ;)
 
MB229.3 Vs VW 507.00.


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Because...


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Question

W211 E320 V6 CDI No DPF

Looking at the service history of the car, except once (5w40) the main dealers have always used 5w30. I'm going to service the car my self, and I enquired with the local MB dealership and they would sell me 229.5 5w40. The car is on 99k miles and I was under the impression that 40 weight is good for much higher mileage or where oil seepage occurs.

So what is actually recommended? Should I just source 5w30 within the 229.5/.51/.52 spec range?
 

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