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A45 AMG Project Thread: One step at a time

Shaunee said:
Hi acej, I do want to explain the reasoning behind this later on (as it will help set further context as where this project could end up going). However, from a personal perspective I absolutely trust them; they are extremely enthusiastic; they are committed and above all, they do whatever they need to do to get "it" right and don't just talk the talk. Working with people that have these qualities, just makes the whole process so much better and more enjoyable.:thumb: I'm not suggesting that none of the "known" tuners within this community are not the same. But when its' right to do so, you tend to go on past experiences with people that you already know. P.S. When I was over their last week, walking around the workshop, I was "introduced" to an awesome looking SLS Black Series in for some "mods", parked next to a Ferrari (I didn't take in which one - but it was new lol) in for a twin turbo modfest. Then over the other side of the workshop was a Veyron in for some modifications. :eek: Come on..... who "needs" to modify a Veyron! :D

I agree it's important to know that who ever you choice will go that extra mile when needed. I have experienced a couple of challenges along my journey but when needed I have always been able to pick up the phone and they have gone out of their way to help.

Cheers
 
Yesterday saw the initial steps taken to start this whole journey.

It's going to take me some time (hopefully by early next week) for me to formulate all the results into a meaningful and informative update. However, this car has been truly "transformed" by yesterdays work. Whilst this has opened my eyes to how this car responds to initial stages of tuning, it provides me some real excitement as to what we can extract going forward...... even without a turbo!

More to follow soon.....
 
Post it up Shaunee! Been working on this one myself with Acid and the results through mapping and downpipe alone are outstanding.

Calibrations? Do you mean softwares with maps identified? I have so far 3 of them.
 
Hi BFT,
Not ventured down the DP or ECU map route yet..... that's to come. The car is now effectively at the 555nm transmission limit already, with just a Litchfield tuning box attached.

I need to gather all my info together to provide overall context though. I'll get this done asap. Loads of data to thrash myself over. :D I appreciate this has undoubtedly all been done by tuners before me, but it's good to get this information in the public domain.

Calibrations - I mean the actual table definitions as part of an overall map. Are these out in the wild yet, or do these need to be deciphered?
 
To be fair, Iain (Litchfield) knows his stuff and has a long and extensive background with Japanese metal, but the market for imported and tweaked Type Rs and Subaru STis has pretty much died off now so it's no surprise he's looking for new areas to move into.
 
To be fair, Iain (Litchfield) knows his stuff and has a long and extensive background with Japanese metal, but the market for imported and tweaked Type Rs and Subaru STis has pretty much died off now so it's no surprise he's looking for new areas to move into.

I thought GT-R's were their bread & butter nowadays?
 
GTR's are their biggest single customer base of marque/model currently. However, they are able to tune very effectively a number of different marques and varying models.

They have spent a lot of time recently on developing their BMW M4 tuning packages, which are currently well over 500bhp. :D Their own development car is due for a shootout feature in an up and coming edition of EVO (it was on the dyno after mine having some final development finished off in preparation for EVO borrowing it).
 
This thread is turning a bit strange, you say you are impressed with initial tuning and it's already at the limit of the transmission.....but don't tell us how.
Like BFT said he and Acid have cracked the ECU and are running with down pipes etc.....

So what's been done by Lichfield that's different

It's good to see other tuners coming onboard for the baby AMG but come on give us some info.
 
Hi Lee,
Sorry if it appears strange. That was not my intention. I'll be providing all the gory detail of what went on, by the start of next week. Unfortunately it takes times to produce the post, and I also need to tie in the publication with something else. You'll understand when you see it. This won't be just a dyno graph and peak figure statement... I can assure you of that.
 
Sorry - just "fat fingered" a new post, instead of editing the previous one.
 
Right then guys…… this is where it all starts! Well, after we cover this preamble.

Preamble
First off I would like to underline a key point. I’m not suggesting at the moment that I’m going to find out anything new or revolutionary. A lot of the initial steps I’ll be taking will undoubtedly be exactly the same as others have done before me. But I need to do it “one step at a time”, because that’s the way you learn using a pragmatic approach.

The difference with this project (I suspect) will be to go into as much detail as possible, within the context of what has been or planned to be done.

If you’re looking for “just” power graphs and peak figure talk….. whilst you’ll find that information here, this is really not what my project thread will be about - there is a lot more to modifications than just using these two elements as reference.

If I have one “mission” in life, that “mission” is to keep highlighting that on their own, peak figures mean diddly squat. If you just skim read this project, focussing on peak values and comparing those with other peak values (from others achievements), you are in my opinion, missing valuable context. Peak figures do not make for a quick car, and they certainly don’t tell you what you really need to appreciate. Peak figures are for the pub - and the next round won’t be on me!

As one community member said in comment to the introduction post, “That's a lot of rice to consume right there!”. That’s the way I roll. So you best get your empty plate ready, grab some salt and pepper, tuck your napkin in under your chin and prepare yourself for a mammoth “eat as much as you like” experience!!

I want to understand the detail of why and how, which will hopefully allow us all to understand how things could be improved and what is potentially looked at next in the journey.

Performance measurement and tuning aids - Rolling Road Overview
Perhaps the single biggest bone of contention is how I would decide to measure/test for any increases (and of course decreases) in power, when looking at engine modifications. Several ways exist, namely use of a Rolling Road, Engine Dyno, Performance Meters and the regularly used “**** dyno” (for those that are not familiar with this, it is the term given to the “just driven my car and it feels so much quicker now…. It must be 400bhp”).

For the purpose of engine based modifications, stats will be attained by use of a Rolling Road, coupled with real driving feedback on the road.

Even though we may all agree that various rolling roads will give different readings, and the arguments that RR figures at X are incorrect and RR figures at Y are correct, is meaningless to a degree.

Although many conditions even on the same rolling road can cause changes in figures, we need something we can use to compare with accuracy and repeatability. Obviously the more conditions you can stabilise the more your figures will be representative.

Now, before I explain things further it’s probably worth me stating one thing here and now. I’m a self confessed “dyno queen”. At a guess, I suspect I have had well in excess of 500 runs on various dyno’s over the years (I wouldn’t actually be surprised if it’s closer to 1000 runs).

Even though I’m just a member of the Joe Soap gang, this number of runs on various dyno set-ups across the UK has provided me a vast amount of knowledge around this area. I’m sure we’ve all seen the arguments about which ones do or don’t over read. How important wheel horsepower is and how inaccurate flywheel horsepower is!?

Let’s get one thing straight…. a dyno is a tool, and if used correctly, a very valuable tool.

For the pub talk fanatics out there you know which type of dyno to go to, to receive inflated figures. If that makes you feel better, bully for you….. it’s your money and your ego. Personally, I place more emphasis on accuracy and repeatability.

Remember... there are lies, damn lies and dynos!

I could tell you heaps of ways that I could alter the way a car was run on a dyno, that would influence the figures obtained. Be rest assured that this is all about being “real” from my perspective. I have nothing to gain from presenting inflated figures, and it’s certainly not something I suspect you want to see.

If you are not already aware, power figures on Rolling Roads are normally part measured and part calculated. For the purpose of this project we will be showing flywheel BHP and torque figures. The core reason behind this is that here in the UK, that is our normal method of measurement. Some people will suggest that wheel horsepower figures are the be all and end all. I totally disagree in respect of chassis dynos. Like flywheel figures, wheel horsepower figures can also be up for a “slagging”. Different chassis dynos will undoubtedly produce different wheel horsepower figures. Why? Well it’s to do with the physical makeup of the dyno, like the rollers used and how all the “gubbins” works to “measure” the power. I could then start to talk about tyre deformation and the effect this has, but I suspect that will send you to sleep.

Some others will then take the stance that it matters not what figures the dyno produces, it’s the difference of the before and after in percentage terms. With people using those % differences as a defacto way of measuring performance. You have to be open minded about this as well, as you’re assuming conditions are like for like and that the power reported is based on linear measurements on a like for like basis, with the previous run. You can not guarantee that, especially when you’re using a dyno setup that you already know provides inaccurate data.

It makes absolute sense to start off with a dyno that you feel provides accuracy from the get go. It makes no sense to start off with a dyno that you already know provides inflated figures. This is assuming you want a level of accuracy in respect of figures attained….. although there are other key (and more important) reasons why a dyno provides a worthy advantage to tuning overall. This is something that will be explained further at appropriate points in this project.

Performance measurement and tuning aids - Which type of chassis dyno?
OK…. so I want to use a dyno that provides accurate (within context) flywheel figures and repeatable results. But what about the known issue of Haldex transmission and dynos?

The A45 AMG uses a Haldex system to manage traction (torque balance) between the front and rear axles. Predominantly the system is front wheel, but has the capability to shift torque to the rear axle, when it detects slip at the front. So why is this a potential problem?

Since the Haldex system can switch to 4WD, you need to use a 4WD dyno (don’t even think about using a 2WD one!). However, many 4WD dynos have locked front and rear rollers (resistance wise), which for a permanent 4WD system (like on a Subaru) that’s all fine. For a Haldex equipped car….. that’s potentially very bad. In basic terms, running a Haldex car on a non-Haldex compatible dyno can (and has) result in damaged transmission. You need to use a dyno that is able to adjust resistance as required, between front and rear.

So let’s assume we have that situation covered with the dyno choice made.

The “cell” in which the dyno is located is also very important if you want to maintain accuracy and repeatable results.

Airflow is paramount in achieving both accuracy and a level of safety of your vehicle during dyno use. A dyno is a VERY harsh environment for your car, so you need to ensure that the best environment within the cell is provided. Decent airflow not only helps with replicating (as best as you can) road conditions, but also ensures appropriate airflow assists cooling. A properly constructed dyno “cell” will support these requirements.

There are so many so called “cells” that are effectively in part of the workshop. You’ve seen them. Big open spaces and very high ceilings. Trying to control airflow and pressure in a large space is going to be extremely difficult, if nigh on impossible with the majority of fan and exhaust systems tuners use. The smaller the “space” (cell), the better the environment can be stabilized and controlled, with appropriate fan and exhaust systems shifting huge amounts of air in and out.

So taking all of this into consideration, and based upon my previous experience of using this type of dyno (to appreciate it’s known accuracy), I’ll be using the dyno cell equipped with the latest MAHA MSR dyno.

An added benefit of the MAHA is that it measures coast down (transmission drag) to derive a flywheel BHP figure (wheel figure + coast down). On a chassis dyno this is the only way to accurately measure transmission losses. Forget the “fixed %” that is used by so many…. drivetrain losses are not linear. Just think about heat build up (friction/drag) in your drivetrain, which builds as torque is created. The higher the temps, the more friction and greater the losses.


Oh and by the way….. Mercedes-Benz do not only use this model of dyno, but they also own quite a large number of them. If it’s good enough for them, it’s good enough for me.

AMG Test Mode for Dyno Use
Did you know that your A45 has a mode that should be used when running your car on a dyno? Well the gents at AMG decided to add a mode that disables all of the braking and traction aids (yes, that includes ABS). This is especially useful for completing runs on a dyno (I’m referring to the traction aids here), to ensure that nothing interferes.

amg_dyno_mode.jpg


I wonder what the car would be like on track in this mode.. Mmmmmm. Although I wouldn’t recommend this.

If you want to find out how to gain access to this mode, there is a good YT video explaining it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmePR0zwtfY

Performance measurement and tuning aids - Racelogic VBOX
We know (well…. I hope we do!) it’s not all about dyno figures, and whilst I’ll be explaining how you should dissect a dyno graph to gain the important information (and that’s NOT going to be about peak figures in isolation), we really need to gauge performance on the “black stuff” surely. Part of this will be completed via road driving feedback, but that can be subjective to a degree. What we really need is another “measure” to compliment ALL the information that is being gathered.

Performance monitoring as regards to recording 0-60, 0-100 & 1/4m times was historically a bit hit and miss as far as the high street consumer has been concerned. Whilst a number of solutions have existed that are very accurate, the costs involved with these solutions had always been out of reach, except for those that require such equipment for official testing and have the budgets to substantiate such equipment.

With the advancements of GPS and the keen pricing of such equipment to the general consumer sector, a new solution appeared on the market a few years ago, that now makes this kind of performance testing, both extremely cost effective and accurate.

RaceLogic have constructed an all-in-one solution that combines a single unit that not only houses all the sensors, GPS receivers and built in screen, but it also gives the ability to log results which can be stored on a memory card and later read and analysed using some very powerful software supplied. All you need is a fag lighter socket (for power) and off you go…… sounds too simple to actually be true and accurate doesn’t it….. well let me assure you it is certainly both simple to use and very accurate. I’ve personally been using these devices for years, attaining “figures” and times which have been referenced against specialist and very expensive timing equipment.

My weapon of choice is the Racelogic Drift Box.



Firstly don’t let the name Drift Box put you off….. this little box of tricks is far more than a box that shows you drift angles!

For the purpose of this project and testing, I suspect we will be concentrating on the uses of the Performance Meter, Lap Timer and Data Logger.

Performance Meter
With the DriftBox it is very easy to measure acceleration times, braking distances, quarter miles times and much more. There are a number of configurable screens that show specific test results such as 0-60, 0-100, 0-100-0, 1/2 miles and ¼ mile etc.

DriftBox is based on the Racelogic VBOX, which is used by the majority of car manufacturers, tyre manufacturers and car magazines around the world to assess performance.

Because it is very easy to edit the test ranges, DriftBox is a very powerful tool for use in many different kinds of vehicle testing.

Lap Timer
Displaying your lap times as you drive around a circuit is simple with DriftBox. You can display your current, last and best lap times, and also display split times for up to six specified split points around the lap.

Through the DriftBox forum you are able to download circuit overlays from around the world, compare lap times, and share lap overlay data with other users.

Data Logger


Every item of data that the DriftBox displays (and loads more besides) is logged and can be recorded on a SD card. This can be read in to a PC at a later date to analyse. The piece of software that comes with the DriftBox to enable this function is very powerful indeed, giving you many different tabular and graphing facilities to display and compare the information captured. The software will even enable you to "play back" captured data sets on screen.

How accurate is it?
Amazingly accurate!!!!!

The lap timing mode proved (based on my testing) to be within .1 seconds accuracy of official track timing equipment.

The performance meter proved (based on my testing) to be within .1 seconds accuracy of several FIA approved drag strips for the 1/4m.

Right…. that’s enough “rice” for the entree.

You best visit the toilet for a bowel movement and make some space for the main course (some fitment and testing of tuning products), which will be up for “tasting” shortly!

See you in a couple of days.
 
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Hi BFT,
Not ventured down the DP or ECU map route yet..... that's to come. The car is now effectively at the 555nm transmission limit already, with just a Litchfield tuning box attached.

I need to gather all my info together to provide overall context though. I'll get this done asap. Loads of data to thrash myself over. :D I appreciate this has undoubtedly all been done by tuners before me, but it's good to get this information in the public domain.

Calibrations - I mean the actual table definitions as part of an overall map. Are these out in the wild yet, or do these need to be deciphered?

Ah calibrations sounds ECUTEK speak! Basically defining the maps within the hex/bin file from the ecu with various factors/offsets/axis data etc.

Unsure if out in the wild yet however yes they are deciphered completely ;)
 
No doubt I'll miss some of the salient points and may end up asking for an explanation of the obvious to some, so forgive me if I do. Please carry on! :thumb: :D
 
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Hi JJJ,
I'll be getting down to brass tacks soon enough. Just have quite a bit of data to draw together first, to present in a meaningful and informative fashion. :)
 
Apologies for splitting this update...... it's humongous even by my standards!!

Engine Stage 1 - Tuning Box
So here we are: The engine. Stage 1. Tuning Box.

Let’s get to it…..

Apologies to those of you who understand the theory side of tuning, or those that are simply not interested. Something I like to do is provide some background physics explanation and/or theories, when I explain new elements that are being investigated and/or tested. Many people find this interesting and I feel it adds appropriate context to the what and why questions.

The old skool way of anything relating to “Stage 1” used to be exhaust, air filter and a carburettor rejetting and/or ignition timing alterations. Whilst methods may have changed since the “old days”, the principals remain the same.

In respect of the internal combustion engine: more air in (and more exhaust gas out), more fuel in, more ignition, bigger bang and what do we have……. more POWER!!

Luckily with modern set-ups, (read: ECU’s) and of course forced induction (turbo charging), the results can be quite dramatic, with relatively little effort.

Talking of turbo charging, whilst I suspect we know what this term relates to, do we all actually know how it works?

Simply put:
- air is effectively sucked in through the air filter; through the compressor side of the turbo (which, as the name suggests compresses the air to make it more dense by volume);
through a cooling unit to increase/retain density, into the combustion chamber of each cylinder;

- this air is nice and dense (compared to an engine that is not turbocharged), so when you add fuel (proportionally) and introduce a spark you get a much bigger bang;

- on the downward stroke of the piston the exhaust gas passes through the exhaust manifold/headers (via the exhaust valves opening), through the turbo (exhaust side), which drives the compressor (compressor and exhaust on the turbo core work together - suck and blow air) and the cycle starts again.

Sounds quite complicated to explain but the physics are pretty simple.

Basic engine “tuning” nowadays (more so for turbocharged vehicles) normally relates to an ECU (Engine Control Unit) “remap”. Which crudely put, is done by changing values within the ECU “map”, which tells your engine what to do in relation to fuel, air and ignition.

Same as “old days”, just using different methods to control it all.

For the majority of us we don’t really care what this side entails. As long as we get the expected results, who cares what parameters have to be changed and for what reason…… but equally there are a number of us who are interested.

Mapping needs to be undertaken by a professional that really knows their stuff. Many people claim they are experts, but in my experience, this does not always relate to a good job. Whether that relates to a fast car (or not), or probably more importantly, one that doesn’t grenade itself due to a bad map. In my opinion one of the biggest and most key decisions you’ll ever make when tuning a car, is who maps it and should you require this, who builds you an engine. NEVER take these decisions lightly. Do your research guys (as I’m sure some of you are already too well aware of).

Tuning Box
Whilst I would have loved to get straight into ECU remapping as the first “venture”, I needed to look at these tuning boxes first, which are quite the “in thing” with the A45 at the moment.

Nasty way of tuning or actually a method that can work? I used to always think the former if I’m being honest.

Coming from the Subaru scene (my previous life) you’d never dream of using a tuning box. In fact I never liked the idea of using these devices even with my daily diesel hack. However, I’m always open to some testing and finding stuff out.

So what does a tuning box actually do (yeah, yeah - it tunes!!!)...

Whilst we’ve established the basics of air, fuel and spark make power, and we’ve also stated that modern engines control all of this via the ECU. Where does a tuning box fit in all of this then?

Most tuning boxes effectively sit between certain engine sensors, reading data going to or coming from a sensor, from or to the ECU. A tuning box can basically “alter” data between what is read in and what is sent out of it.

The most crude of tuning boxes will simply use a form of linear resistance bridged either over one sensor or between two. These types of tuning boxes would be best avoided in my opinion.

The most advanced ones have heavily populated data tables on them, which cross reference many things to provide safer control, across multiple sensors, and even allow you to make incremental changes to the overall settings of the box. This provides an element of flexibility for differing conditions and environments.

Even after doing my research on tuning boxes I still felt a bit uneasy, as “altering” data between the sensors and ECU never really sat well with me, as I was always concerned about the safety elements, that effectively the ECU would not be in total control.

This is where modern ECU’s appear to help the cause.

Modern ECU’s can have a lot of self learning and to a degree, on the fly mapping adjustment capabilities. Many ECU’s are now able to adjust fueling and ignition (within certain boundaries) based upon readings from a number of the engine sensors. So even if a tuning box requests more boost, the ECU detects that a fuel mixture is running lean and will add more fuel to compensate (again, being very simplistic). Assuming the tuning box works in conjunction with the ECU capabilities and engine, you could have quite a nifty setup available for a Stage 1 tune.

The single biggest advantage of a tuning box, is because it sits between your ECU and sensors, it can be easily removed and (in most cases) undetectable - read: warranty friendly.

I would suggest the biggest downside (let’s assume the tune levels and setup is safe) is that a “proper” remap (which may also bring issues around warranty) of the ECU tables may provide better gains. Not always in peak figures for Stage 1, but a custom map of your car will probably net driveability gains. But we’ll test that theory at a later stage.

So before fitting the Litchfield tuning box I needed to gain a baseline with the A45 in standard guise.

Just for clarity we will conduct three runs for each test. The first one to ensure the engine, ancillaries and transmission are up to effective temperature, and the final two to gauge consistency of figures.

The MAHA dyno simulates quite a lot of load, and the runs can be longer than on some other dynos. As long as the dyno cell has proper/effective airflow, this won’t be an issue and it helps to ensure that appropriate load is being seen by the engine and ECU for each run (as you would see on the road).

Something else I’ll be making use of, to ensure that I can gauge an element of satisfaction around what the ECU is seeing and how the engine is reacting, is to monitor detonation/knock. This is very important when you’re tuning a car, to appreciate whether or not you’re getting pre-ignition. This can be caused by all manner of things, and is ultimately bad news for your engine (damage to pistons, rings and crank bearings etc). I’m sure you’ve all heard of tuned engines that have melted a piston....... knock is your enemy.

The ECU will have it’s own knock strategy (many modern ECU’s are so powerful nowadays), and be surly recording any knock events (via a knock sensor located on the engine block) in it’s logs. It will use this information to “learn” (within certain boundaries), adapting ignition (by retarding) etc to reduce the occurrence of any knock event, once an event has been “seen”. Once we get into the ECU side of things we should be able to log this more effectively. For the time being we’ll be using DET CANS whilst testing work is being done on the dyno and road, to ensure we can “listen” for any knock events that happen. This is in part, to make sure any level of tune is “safe”. In laymans terms, DET CANS consist of a microphone and a set of head phones. The noise of DET happening can be distinguished through the headphones, to a person who has a trained ear.

Dyno Corrections Used
I want to get this out of the way, to provide ABSOLUTE clarity to the dyno results we will see throughout this project.

Nearly every dyno has a correction facility, which based on whatever correction factor is being applied, will use data from the environment (barometric pressure, inlet temps, ambient temps etc) in conjunction with a calculation, to normalise the power readings. This is to ensure (any dyno accuracy of readings in general to one side) that it does not matter (to a degree) whether you dyno your car on a hot day or a cold day, your figures will be comparative. These correction factors are a leveller to normalise figures regardless of environment atmospheric conditions. Basically, if any one says to you that their dyno figure was low, because it was “hot outside”..... they are more likely giving an excuse for something that is not actually a reason.

I would suggest that you only use a dyno that has corrections applied, for any reasonable power output figure. You’ll see why below.

The large majority of data and dyno set-ups in the EU will use the DIN correction factor. However, the latest correction factor that is being adopted across the EU now (and certainly by the manufacturers) is EWG. The short and tall of it, is EWG will generally provide LOWER figures than DIN.

Based on my dyno testing (of the baseline standard figures) the differences were:

Uncorrected power: 390.1 BHP
Corrected to DIN: 376.5 BHP
Corrected to EWG: 363.6 BHP This is extremely close to manufacturers figures.

You can see there is a difference between all of them. Make sure your dyno graph has a correction factor for starters, and then ensure any other graph you’re comparing with, is using the same factor. Don’t forget the differences can sway both ways as well.

If you compound correction factors with, “optimistic” dynos, you’ll now start to understand why there is some major disparity with dyno numbers in the wild. Certainly with some of the figures being touted around the forums.

Just be open minded about all of this….. AND DON’T CONCENTRATE ON DYNO NUMBERS in isolation!

Since nearly all the comparable data in the community for the A45 has been measured by using DIN, that will be the correction factor I’ll be using for the time being (it will be clearly marked as such on each graph).


TEST 1 - Baseline Figure


Summary of Spec
Standard MY14 A45 AMG
Fuel - VPower Nitro (99 oct)

TEST 1 figure achieved was 376.5bhp & 334.8lbft @ the flywheel

TEST 1 - Baseline Figure - Comments
Well we already appreciate how quick this car is, even in standard form on the black stuff. But in reality this is due to a number of things. The area under the curve, the gearbox and Haldex system - as a complete package it pretty much rocks, but what does the “pretty” graph tell us about the power delivery.

The area under the curve is always more relevant than the peak figures.

I can normally look at an entire power graph and make a decent judgement as to the potential of the power delivery and flexibility on the road, taking into account the power band and torque available. Make no mistake, it’s the torque that gets you to where you want to go…. quicker.

Since the MAHA RR is able to appropriately load the engine up, you can deduce how the turbo comes on song. You can see here that you’re achieving near (over 320lbft) peak torque at around 2800rpm, which in 4th gear is really very good on a 2ltr. Suffice to say, due to loading, you will see peak torque coming in slightly earlier the higher the gear. So 5th would see this 2800rpm drop slightly….. this is all normal (3rd gear would be slightly later and so on).

Low rpm’s for torque makes for more pace from lower revs, however by looking at this torque curve you see the A45 holds this torque all the way through to 6k rpm. Again, for a 2ltr this is pretty awesome. This is why the mid-range feels really strong on the A45 and explains why the engine just keeps pulling to the redline. When you combine a wide torque band, with an early onset of torque, you end up with a very agile package.

When we also see how much more power/torque this turbo can provide further on, it makes the overall set-up even more amazing.

So what else can we find out?

Another advantage of the MAHA RR is that we can also capture and overlay other data, that is gathered at the time of the dyno run. For these stage of tests against Stage 1, we’ll access additional data direct from the ECU (via the ODB port) and feed these into the dyno hardware. Later on in future stages I’ll look at capturing all manner of data via software accessing the ECU directly (which will enable more information to be captured).

TEST 1 Boost Plot


The problem with logging via OBD is that the logging sample rate can be quite slow (hence why the plot is very angular). Also with boost, OBD is capped to around 1.55bar, so the plot levels out at this (the scale is in absolute, so you need to take a whole number off to get the boost pressure - i.e. 2.5bar absolute is 1.5bar boost). The graph looks like max boost is 1.55bar, which it won’t be in reality.

I’ll get these graphs refreshed with proper boost plotting, so we can see what the max boost is. I don’t even know what this is, as I wasn’t able to log it…. we’ll find out don’t worry.

Putting the above slight issue to one side…..

The first thing that “shocked” me when I saw the standard run boost graph, was the boost profile. I’m used to a car hitting peak boost just prior to peak torque and then trying to hold that boost through the mid-range, and then falling off towards the latter part of the rev range.
Not with the A45 it doesn't! However, once you start thinking about it (taking the torque graph into account), it all makes sense. The boost is profiled like this to keep the torque curve nice and flat, which aids driveability and potentially enables the top end power to be retained at a higher RPM. I also think this is an emissions “thing” as well…. we’ll see more on that when we look at the fuelling side of things.

The harder and earlier you “work” a turbo, the earlier (within the rev range) it can start to run past it’s efficiency, inturn pumping hot air. Taking the approach that AMG have, means you end up with a really good powerband…. ergo a quicker car on the road.

There was me originally thinking (as we’re told that this turbo is operating at 1.8bar as OEM set-up) that this turbo must be some monster technology to make 1.8bar at just over 2k and holding through the mid-range. Not at all….. AMG have just used a different approach to give the best powerband, and ultimately a quicker car. Nothing groundbreaking, but a really good approach in this instance.

As you can see by the boost plot, the mid-range is only running around 1.35bar. We’re seeing 1bar at a little over 2200rpm. In 4th gear on a dyno that is pretty awesome.

TEST 1 Ignition Plot


So here we have the standard ignition map. On it’s own it’s fairly irrelevant, but as we look at the differences of the before and after (tuning box), we’ll have something else to “inspect”.

The only thing worth saying is that you’ll be able to see how the ignition is ramped up as we gain revs on the standard set-up. Currently peak ignition is showing advance of 12degs @ 6k rpm.

TEST 1 Lambda Plot


Since this graph is showing what the ECU is seeing via OBD, this is from the lambda prior to the CAT. On new cars like the A45, this specific lambda sensor is pseudo “wideband”. This is much more accurate and quicker lambda sensor, than what we used to see in cars a few years back. I’ll tell you why this is important once we talk about the tuning box testing.

Like when I saw the boost curve, I was also quite shocked when I saw the lambda plot. The A45 likes to run very lean by the looks of it!

You can see by the graph that the fueling starts off rich as you come on boost, and then leans right out. Then gradually the fueling starts to richen back up again, until at peak power it’s about the level that you would normally aim for on a tune.

The leaner the engine runs, the hotter it runs and the cleaner the burn cycle….. which ultimately means less emissions. If you wondered why the A45 can achieve so good emissions, this will be one of the reasons. Obviously the engine is designed to run this hot, but I wouldn’t feel comfortable running a car this lean as a strategy moving forward (when we look at future mods for more serious power).

For me, this was another set of interesting data logs, which now start to explain quite a few things about the A45, but also gives us areas to “play with” in the future.

TEST 1 Road
There is no point in having a “Road Test” overview…… you all know how these cars drive in standard form. However, to date I have no OEM state of tune VBOX logs. I can capture this information if it appears prudent to do so, but I think there is enough information out in the wild, that we appreciate the OEM numbers (like 0-60 and 0-100mph etc).

When all’s said and done, the key thing we have here is a baseline to reference against, for any engine mods we decide to do hereon.

Full results from the Tuning Box will be up within 24hrs!
 
TEST 2 - Tuning Box - Dyno
This specific tuning box requires interaction with three sensors. MAP, boost and CAM sensor. Via these sensors it would be technically possible (depending on car and tuning box) to adjust boost, ignition and possibly fueling (if the ECU is Manifold Absolute Pressure based (speed density being used) rather than Mass Air Flow based for airflow calculations).

As already highlighted previously, tuning boxes can be quickly fitted - 15 mins will see the job done. All you need is the ability to read some very simple instructions. You won’t even need to get your hands dirty!

So… can 15mins pulling some connectors apart and reconnecting with the tuning box in place, really yield any positive results? Let’s find out.



Summary of Spec
MY14 A45 AMG
Litchfield Tuning Box
Fuel - VPower Nitro (99 oct)

TEST 2 figure achieved was 406.4bhp & 404.8lbft @ the flywheel
Test 2 +29.9bhp +70lbft (peak) over Baseline
Test 2 +8% bhp +21% lbft (peak) over Baseline

This is where this all gets really interesting and we look into what this graph really informs us of.

With the tuning box connected we have seen some good gains…. with the eye opening part being around the torque increases, which are pretty awesome in reality. If you look at the torque curve you see it still retains that “table top” look of the standard set-up (albeit slightly falling away past 5k, but still in excess of the standard torque levels even past 6k), which should equate to a very strong increase on the road, in respect of acceleration.

At this point we need to move away from peak figures in isolation….. they only tell part of the story.

Based on these peak figures attained, I appear to be underpowered (although the torque gains are pretty huge) compared to other tuning box “graphs”. Let’s delve a bit deeper….. and then see what these “numbers” mean in the real world - because that’s where it counts.

All runs on the dyno were DET free, which was also double checked on the road afterwards.

The maps that I have tested are the same ones that will be included as part of the final consumer product. Not maps that have been “cranked up” just for my benefit.

TEST 1 vs TEST 2


For the above graph I have literally overlaid one with another, so hence some of the blurring on text.

Now we can start to evaluate the increased power/torque difference across the whole of the rev range.

One thing you can quickly tell by looking at a power graph is potentially how “clean” the map is being seen by the ECU and how the engine is reacting. You may notice that the power curve with the tuning box is smooth, with no sudden dips in power. The slight dips you can see in the torque curve (on the tuning box run) follows the same kind of minor dips as the standard run, so in reality, nothing to worry about there.

What is clearly evident is the substantial increase in torque from 1800rpm, all the way through to 6k. From 3-5k we’re seeing in excess of over 75lbft in places…… that’s some serious torque increase in anyones book. As a side note, MAHA dynos have a reputation for under reading on torque - I actually prefer to think MAHA’s are just “more” accurate. We can also see far greater increases in power than the peak power figure increase suggests. Power is increased by over +70bhp in places. In fact the tuning box is delivering an increase in both power and torque all the way through the rev range.

This is why it’s REALLY important to look at the area below the lines, rather than peak figures in isolation.

If I’m being honest I was pretty shocked at the breadth of increases shown, for a 2ltr engine utilising “just” a tuning box.

For a road car, a wide torque band is king in my opinion. We’ll see how this actually translates to real world performance later on, but the dyno graph suggests that the increases in road performance are going to be substantial from this stage of tuning.

So….. what’s changed to enable this increase?

TEST 2 Boost


Unfortunately I’m unable to overlay the two boost graphs (before and after) as the scaling (for boost) of these two graphs is different (sorry - that was an oversight by me), but it’ sort of irrelevant. Since the boost is being read from the ECU, the tuning box is doing it’s “thing” between the ECU and sensors, which in essence means the ECU is seeing the same boost as before (when standard). There are very slight differences in the profile with the tuning box, but nothing that would ever relate to the real power increases clearly seen.
The boost plot with the tuning box is more or less the same “profile” as the standard run.

Although the graph does not show it (the only way I’ll know this for sure, is by logging boost another way - which I’ll come back and do), I don’t like to assume stuff without getting data, but I’d be very surprised if the tuning box is not increasing boost levels….. in fact I’d be amazed, so it’s probably safe to make the assumption that boost is being increased across the rev range.

TEST 2 Ignition Plot


There’s a similar thing going on with the ignition seen by the ECU, although it does appear that Ignition has been reduced by the ECU in places. I can’t be 100% sure what is going on as I need more logging facilities (to come in the future). It would be quite reasonable to expect ignition advance to be reduced, assuming that boost has increased. It’s always a game of finding the best mix of boost and ignition, to achieve the best mix of power and driveability. You’ll be amazed at the difference an ignition heavy map vs a boost heavy map, has on certain elements of driveability.

Whilst this next graph is quite hard to work out which line is associated to which test (1 or 2), if you refer back to the master graphs, you’ll be able to work it out. Here is an overlay between the two ignition plots:


TEST 2 AFR Plot
This is where we can now start to show some fuelling data, to determine how the ECU’s fuelling strategy is coping with the increase in boost and changes in ignition…… this is a very important area.

The A45 ECU utilises something called a “Closed Loop” strategy. Simplistically, this means this ECU can “self tune” itself, within a certain level of tolerance, for changes it see’s (via the various sensors) that require some adjustment. One of these areas could be fuelling requirements.

As previously mentioned, the A45 has a pseudo wideband lambda sensor just prior to the CAT. With this sensor, it enables the ECU to monitor the air/fuel ratio (AFR) of the exhaust gases. If you (for instance) introduce more air into the combustion chamber, without adding more fuel, you’ll end up with a leaner AFR. This could potentially mean you’ll not supplying enough fuel and you’ll experience DET (losing power) and possibly damage your engine. This is only one example for context.

This type of ECU functionality can work really well with an appropriately set-up tuning box. Which ultimately means that the ECU is still able to control key aspects.

Let’s see what the ECU is doing about the fuelling (we’ll jump straight to an overlaid graph).



As you can see from the two graphs overlaid, they are pretty much identical. The Closed Loop system on the A45 ECU has adapted well to the changes made, and the power that has been gained.

You can’t “safely” rely on the Closed Loop system indefinitely, without properly remapping the ECU tables, to account for further mods. How far we can safely go without accessing the ECU map directly, time will tell as I complete further tests. At this level of tune though, it looks absolutely fine with this specific tuning box/map.

Additionally, when we start properly tuning this car via the ECU, we’ll be modifying the downpipe to accept a proper wideband sensor that will be used whilst mapping. This will ensure we get precise AFR readings (to map to). You shouldn’t use the standard sensor already installed, for mapping, as the results won’t be accurate enough. If you remove the CAT from the exhaust, it’s possible to insert a wideband in the tailpipe, but having one located in the downpipe is best (closest to the turbo as possible).

Whilst all of this data is interesting, how does this all really relate to the real world…… on the tarmac.


TEST 2 - Tuning Box - Road
I appreciate this immediate next bit will be subjective, but don’t worry - we’ll be discussing some objective data in a short while.

With my experience of tuned 2ltr turbocharged engines, I’ve never previously really “felt” a major difference on the road after an initial Stage 1 remap. Yes, they felt quicker, but not night and day. The A45 was somewhat different.

I was in COMFORT mode setting on the gearbox in second gear and I dabbed the throttle. **** me that felt good! You might be rolling your eyes, but the get up and go was instant and strong….. even in COMFORT mode. It just felt awesome. I just started laughing to myself.

I then took the car down a twisty B road and banged it into MANUAL and gave it a workout. The engine performance really was night and day against the standard set-up. The mid-range was so much stronger now, and it just pulled so hard. Looking at the before and after graph, you can clearly see that extra torque from the get go…… that is what translated to the awesome shove I was feeling……. which kept going to the redline.

It’s probably worth me stating that I’ve only just stepped out of a 500bhp Subaru, and whilst the A45 is not as quick (you wouldn’t expect it to be), this A45 is now way more urgent lowdown and more driveable. For the first time I could actually feel that “shove”, that is normally associated with a tuned turbo car. But this “shove” was now instant….. not waiting for the turbo to come on song. It was there as soon as I hit the throttle….. it felt mega and exactly what you want for a road car. The standard set-up feels very linear and sedate by comparison.

It really did put a smile on my face and 100% backed up the new torque figures this car now has.

For a bit of fun (and because I have the data from the same make of Rolling Road), I thought I would overlay a graph from my previous Subaru STI, when it was part way through it’s project development, to see how the A45 in it’s current state of tune compares.

Japanese STI Impreza with the following mods:
2ltr OEM engine
Remapped ECU
VPower 99oct fuel
Development Billet wheel twinscroll turbo
Aftermarket Front Mount Intercooler
Aftermarket induction kit
800cc aftermarket injectors
Uprated fuel pump
Uprated boost controller

Peak figures of 425bhp/380lbft (at the time of this graph).

So, vs a standard A45 with just a tuning box, which one will have a better graph and may look like it’s going to be quicker on the road?



Please forgive the issue I had with the rpm scaling. The BHP and Torque scaling is 100% aligned, and if I managed to actually get the STI rpm scaling correct, it would make the A45 graph look even better!

Just look at how much more torque and power there is from 2k way past 5k. There is 180lbft of difference (in the A45’s favour) in places, from a graph on the STI that says it has more peak BHP!! I’m sorry to the Scooby boys, but even at this basic level of tune, on the road, the A45 looks pretty awesome. I’m going to get a slagging for this off my Subaru mates (sorry guys!).

If you couple this data with the fact that the A45 has an ultra quick DSG type gearbox, and with the Haldex system, is losing less power to the wheels than a Subaru transmission does….. not sure where the Impreza would be.

This again, is another reason why you should NEVER just look at peak figures!!

OK, so we’ve had a bit of fun with comparing data….. let’s get down to some black and white performance data, to see what the power graph of the tuned A45 really means!


TEST 2 - Tuning Box - VBOX Performance Results
Most of you are aware what other VBOX results for other A45 tuning boxes are achieving. Let’s see what this one does.

I haven’t collected many logs due to time and pretty poor weather conditions in the UK over the past couple of weeks. That’s the way it is, and whilst I expect these results to improve with better conditions, they currently provide some keen context.

It is very important that you appreciate the context of some of these results provided. I’d urge you not to take some of the figures without appreciating the context of the entire log. You’ll understand why as you read through this section.

Getting really **** about things (you must be starting to “get me” now), my car is on 19” wheels and has the full aero kit. This ultimately means it’s the worst configuration (out of the options list) to get the ultimate straight line performance figures available. You may only be talking 1/10th of a disadvantage, but it all adds up boys! Obviously the 18” and non-aero models are quicker! lol

One last thing is that the VBOX screen only displays times to 1/10th accuracy. You need to use the Racelogic Performance software to interrogate the logs, to ascertain absolute accuracy. If you don’t do this, you can find that certain information from the VBOX screen can be misleading. Another community member also pointed out recently, that using the “measure” function within the software is the truest statement of times. I have found this absolutely factual, and can result in actual times being up to .08s more accurate. Sounds like we’re splitting hairs here, but this can make a difference on the 10ths, when working out times between certain MPH ranges - so it is relevant as far as I’m concerned.

I’ve already released some information across the forums on times attained. However, I’ve had to recalculate all times based on me now using the “measure” function. This has increased some of the times by up to 0.1s. Just so you know.

None of this data includes any 1 foot roll-out, so this is accurate with nothing applied to make the figures look better than they really are.

Results without log file available
Unfortunately when I completed initial 0-60mph logs, it appears that the VBOX/memory card was not logging results. I had updated the firmware on the VBOX prior to these initial runs, and I don’t know whether this caused the problem. When I found this out, a simple reformat of the memory card resolved the logging issue - so just be aware when you do any firmware update, reformat your memory card at the same time.

I basically did two runs. The one in the day achieved a 0-60mph of 3.7s. Because I knew I was going to do another run later that evening, I never bothered taking a photo (idiot!).

That evening I completed another run and achieved a 3.8s to 60mph. It was 2degs ambient temperature, so the road surface didn’t provide perfect traction.



Results with log file available
I was presented (by chance) a 20 minute window between booked sessions, to run some tests at a closed facility. Unfortunately (yes, you’ve guessed it) conditions were not very good. It was cold and wet, but I had to make the most of it.

I effectively managed one semi decent pull, with the other ones, being totally trash….. traction was quite an issue and I was concentrating on getting the launch good, which never really happened. I was running out of time, so I did one last run, taking the A45 up to a 1/4m distance (wish I had done it up to and past 130mph now - you live and learn).

A word of warning. I would not suggest you complete launches under poor traction conditions. Traction was that bad during these tests that the centre display stated the 4Matic system was unavailable. This was after the front axle was tramping really bad upon one specific start, I then heard quite a bang, which would have been when the front must have bounced and the tyres snagged traction again. I did think I had bust something, but after a drive for 5mins and a couple of ignition resets, everything was back to normal. Phew!

On the run that I did with the best start I obtained (which was pretty awful), we saw the following:

0-60mph : 4.10s (lol)
0-100mph: 8.75s
60-100mph: 4.65s
¼ Mile: 12.35s @ 116.21mph

Considering the 0-60mph sprint time, the 0-100mph and ¼ Mile times are pretty impressive for this level of tuning. Read below for the context to support that statement (remember it’s all about context). The 60-100mph tells you the REAL performance potential here.

Remember a standard A45 can do the 60mph sprint in 4.2s and the 0-100mph is seen in 10s. That starts to put into context the kind of performance increases we’re really seeing here, once you remove any traction issues. So, if I can achieve a 8.75s to 100mph with a crap 4.1s to 60mph….. care to think what this car could achieve to 100mph with a decent start!?

0-117mph
Here is a the VBOX graph of the whole run:


0-60mph


You can see there were problems with traction, which is reflected in the 0-60 time of 4.10s. Not good at all (especially when 3.7s had already been achieved in better conditions).

The 60ft time for this run was 2.27s…… anyone who appreciates this for drag runs, will understand this is a pretty bad figure. Again, due to grip levels and not anything to do with lack of power. With the launch control on these A45’s, this should be much (and clearly has been for other runs I completed) quicker.

0-100mph


Even without a bad 0-60mph sprint this would have been a pretty decent time. With a bad 0-60mph sprint it makes this figure look even better.

1/4m


Now we know this isn’t going to be great, because of the rubbish launch and 0-60 time. Terminal speeds should tell us more though about how this car pulls through the gears.

Getting this sort of time with the 60ft (and 4.1 0-60 time!) it had, is pretty good to be honest. It’s got plenty of potential. I need to complete this all again under better conditions.

So we need to delve deeper into the figures and see how quick the car is post 30mph.

60-100mph


Now were talking. This is a quick time. In fact it’s very quick for the level of power this car is now running. This totally removes traction issues (in this instance) and starts to highlight the real performance that this car now has.

I have completed a number of data comparisons with a couple of other forum members who have other tuning boxes fitted, using data from upwards of 30mph. Suffice to say that (and it may be of no surprise since you’ve seen the 60-100mph time) that this tuning box appears to hold it’s own, very well indeed!

When all said and done we maybe splitting hairs here, and the biggest statement is really how quick these “Tuning Boxed” A45’s are in general, and will surely be in the future with further mods.

Conclusions
Well the use of a tuning box on these cars most certainly work. I’m converted and learnt something else new! The difference in performance is pretty outstanding, and really does bode well for future modifications as part of this project.

Considering this car only has a tuning box and nothing else, the bang for your buck and performance available is truly phenomenal.

One key thing here though is that you really do need to take everything into consideration when judging performance. Don’t use peak figures to make any kind of informed judgement, and make sure you look at all the information available. The key area will always be how the car performs on the road, but using information from accurate dynos and data logging, can ensure you’re heading in the right direction for any informed conclusions.

I’ll let you decide how good you think this tuning box performs. I’ll also let you decide whether you place reported high peak BHP figures, over and above real performance on the black stuff in the real world. We can all get hung up on power figures and 0-whatever times, but it’s thru & in-gear performance, and overall response/driveability that real matter for road cars.

News on the next stage of this project very soon guys!
 
The dyno being used - is it the inertia type? Does it have a facility to hold engine speed at any chosen rpm while at full torque?
 
No, it's not inertia - Electronically controlled speed synchronization of front and rear roller sets.

I'm not sure about your second question, although I can't see that being a problem based on what I've seen.
 
No, it's not inertia - Electronically controlled speed synchronization of front and rear roller sets.

But what constitutes the load the engine works against - eg, water pump, electrical (eddy current), flywheel inertia, etc?

I'm not sure about your second question, although I can't see that being a problem based on what I've seen.

The runs are conducted by running from low to high rpm at WOT without any facility to 'brake' the engine (ie hold at chosen rpm at WOT (or any other % of WOT)) - yes?
 
The runs are loaded appropriately.

This specific dyno has twin retarders on it, so it can measure up to 1800bhp (iirc).
 

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