Just wanted to ask two quick questions.
Would limiting the charge to 13amps from the car give it a bit of extra life?
And also, I'm having the same hard jerk when shifting from second to third gear... All the time.. Is this a 7g gearbox 'feature' or something that might need changing?
Would limiting the charge to 13amps from the car give it a bit of extra life?
And also, I'm having the same hard jerk when shifting from second to third gear... All the time.. Is this a 7g gearbox 'feature' or something that might need changing?
D
Deleted member 126969
Guest
Re the charge rate...I don’t think it’ll matter. Consider that the drive motor is 80kW so that’s the peak power. Charging at just over 3kW is just a trickle compared to that. There's also the overhead of the battery thermal management which is pretty constant, so the longer you spend charging, the more you waste.
Gearbox should be smooth (except in Sport where they seem to have dialled in harsh shifts deliberately for some bizarre reason)
seekay
Active Member
If you search the word ‘gearbox’ on this thread you can see plenty of comments mentioning rough gearbox changes at low speed, especially noticeable in electric mode at the first one or two gear changes from 2nd to 3rd gear. Users commented on here straight after the delivery. If you google ‘7G-Tronic Plus jerk 2nd to 3rd’ you’ll also find lot of comments from different forums, some of them mentioned that it’d been like that since brand new, someone even had the whole gearbox unit replaced and new one was exactly the same. I only notice this rough shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear when starting the car and only at the first one (or two) 2nd to 3rd change, after that is very smooth. After reading so many similar experiences, I accepted that this is a ‘feature’. Had the gearbox oil changed + adaptation nearly 2 weeks ago, and the gearbox is still learning but the jerk at the first 2nd to 3rd gear after starting the car is still seems to be there.
Have you had the gearbox oil changed in yours?
I only bought the car a month ago so no oil change yet!
I emailed merc today and they said just book the car in for a service and they'll check it.
I need to have a read of the servicing offer because I got 2 years free servicing but not sure if that includes the gearbox or if the 1 year used approved warranty covers anything.
It's only done 14k miles!
I emailed merc today and they said just book the car in for a service and they'll check it.
I need to have a read of the servicing offer because I got 2 years free servicing but not sure if that includes the gearbox or if the 1 year used approved warranty covers anything.
It's only done 14k miles!
seekay
Active Member
If it’s a Mercedes service plan then yes, the gearbox oil change is included. Asked them why it doesn’t come up in their system when the service is due and they said it happens with certain models sometimes therefore they’re instructed to check every single cars manually so those users who missed the oil change, it was basically that particular dealerships fault.
Yup. Was bought from Mercedes used approved.
Service is due in July but I'll see what they say about booking it in now. I think it's a service B that's due according to the sales guy as the car was made in 2017 and done 14k miles.
Service is due in July but I'll see what they say about booking it in now. I think it's a service B that's due according to the sales guy as the car was made in 2017 and done 14k miles.
seekay
Active Member
Unfortunately the gearbox oil change isn’t due until 5 years/77.500 miles so I don’t think they would do it under the B service in this July. But if you have concerns about your gearbox, especially if you notice the rough changes all the time, they should look into this. I wouldn’t wait until the service is due, just call them again and book the car in with this issue.
However there is one more thing you can try, manual adaptation reset:
“Procedure Reset Transmission Adaptive Learning DIY
- Turn the key to position 2. You should see all the dash lights come on. Do NOT start the car. Position II: You should hear two clicks and all your dash lights should turn on. Do not start the engine.
- Press the gas pedal all the way. By pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor, you will activate the kick down switch. Keep the gas pedal pressed all the way to down.
3. Wait. Continue to keep the gas pedal pressed for at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn key to OFF, position 0. Don’t remove the key. Some models may need the key to be removed.
5. Release the gas pedal.
6. Wait 2 minutes. During this process, key is left in the ignition in the OFF position.
7. Start the car and drive.
Once you perform this procedure the Engine Control Unit (ECU) and Transmission Control Unit (TCU) will work together to learn how you drive by monitoring your driving pattern. After you follow this programing method of the TCU / ECU drive the car for 15 min. Do not race the car, unless that’s how you plan on driving all the time. You should have a transmission that shifts smooth and normal. You may feel like you have a new transmission!”
If you do this, make sure to turn everything off during this procedure, including lights, infotainment system, radio, etc, leave the doors closed and don’t open them until you’ve done the whole procedure finishing with a 15-20 minutes drive.
seekay
Active Member
If you have a keyless start feature, just remove the start button, it can be pulled easily. Then insert the key and you can turn into the position you need.
Hi gregondc, welcome to the forum. I haven't noticed this but have rarely driven in hybrid mode around town. Others on here may have experienced this.
seekay
Active Member
Happy Easter Everybody,
Anyone else noticed that sometimes when the ICE kicks in, it doesn't seem to find the right rpm for some reason and the rev counter suddenly goes up to around 2500-3000, only for half sec, then drops the needle immediately to the normal 1200-1500 area? This behaviour happens very rarely but definitely noticeable sometimes .
Anyone else noticed that sometimes when the ICE kicks in, it doesn't seem to find the right rpm for some reason and the rev counter suddenly goes up to around 2500-3000, only for half sec, then drops the needle immediately to the normal 1200-1500 area? This behaviour happens very rarely but definitely noticeable sometimes .
adrenaline12
New Member
Hi guys,
I just bought 2017 E350e and I would really appreciate any help of you to get it moving in the best possible way with all of its plugin hybrid stuff. Here are the details about the car : the car is originally made and sold Nov 2017 and it has 29 000 km of mileage. I bought it as certified second hand from MB dealer in Berlin, Germany, it has still 2 years of extended warranty. So, here is my list of questions :
1. When I took it from the dealership it was 100 percent charged and the car display said I have 37 km of electric range. I`ve already charged it up twice in my garage and each time after it I see 26 km of range on the display. I already synced with the dealership, they confirmed that they did nothing special and just charged it from the wall charger. So, can it be that my garage has 'weak' electricity grid or something ? Can it be that I use the charger set to 6 amp? Should I switch to higher amperage? I initially thought its supposed to be better for the battery to charge it up in the slowest manner with the lowest amperage possible, but it might not be the case.
2. As I already mentioned, after charging, the car says it has 26 km of range. In e-mode (i.e. electric only drive) I really do have something like 14km of real world city driving and I even try to do it with SUPER conservative driving style. I mean I`m driving literally like my granny and I barely get 14km out of it. Could it be that when the battery has been produced 3 years and a half ago it has somehow degraded or something ?
3. When going on one quite of a steep decline for an underground garage the car automatically switched from ECO to SPORT on its own and the engine started up - and it was when I was going down, so no need of any engine here - could it be because it needed something like stopping with the engine or its actually an issue here ?
4. Is it better for the battery/mileage to schedule the car to be charged e.g. for tomorrows morning or to just plug it and leave it like this till tomorrow ?
5. All the booklets and leaflets that came with the car are in German. Does anyone have any source of pdf or something for the hybrid explaining books in English? I mean like the explanations e.g. for all the modes, e-mode, e-save, etc. ? I found a pdf for the general w213 manual from MB USA, but it mentions nothing about hybrid stuff at all. I guess even just photos of the pages of such manuals will get me going well enough.
non hybrid questions
6. I did put a protector coverage on my headlights, but is there some protection for the front camera lenses (from the 360 setup) ? It seems its on the most vulnerable place in the front grill and some pieces of sand or small rocks can smash it or at least scratch it.
7. I am not German and I use the car in English language. When playing a song from the USB, when I press 'media information' in the infotainment system, the menu goes into German language and I cannot even go back , the only option is to press the home button to exit from everything. Is there a way to completely eradicate the German language from the infotainment system ?
Thanks in advance guys, I would really appreciate any comments or answers, it would really help me a lot !!
Regards,
Hristo
I just bought 2017 E350e and I would really appreciate any help of you to get it moving in the best possible way with all of its plugin hybrid stuff. Here are the details about the car : the car is originally made and sold Nov 2017 and it has 29 000 km of mileage. I bought it as certified second hand from MB dealer in Berlin, Germany, it has still 2 years of extended warranty. So, here is my list of questions :
1. When I took it from the dealership it was 100 percent charged and the car display said I have 37 km of electric range. I`ve already charged it up twice in my garage and each time after it I see 26 km of range on the display. I already synced with the dealership, they confirmed that they did nothing special and just charged it from the wall charger. So, can it be that my garage has 'weak' electricity grid or something ? Can it be that I use the charger set to 6 amp? Should I switch to higher amperage? I initially thought its supposed to be better for the battery to charge it up in the slowest manner with the lowest amperage possible, but it might not be the case.
2. As I already mentioned, after charging, the car says it has 26 km of range. In e-mode (i.e. electric only drive) I really do have something like 14km of real world city driving and I even try to do it with SUPER conservative driving style. I mean I`m driving literally like my granny and I barely get 14km out of it. Could it be that when the battery has been produced 3 years and a half ago it has somehow degraded or something ?
3. When going on one quite of a steep decline for an underground garage the car automatically switched from ECO to SPORT on its own and the engine started up - and it was when I was going down, so no need of any engine here - could it be because it needed something like stopping with the engine or its actually an issue here ?
4. Is it better for the battery/mileage to schedule the car to be charged e.g. for tomorrows morning or to just plug it and leave it like this till tomorrow ?
5. All the booklets and leaflets that came with the car are in German. Does anyone have any source of pdf or something for the hybrid explaining books in English? I mean like the explanations e.g. for all the modes, e-mode, e-save, etc. ? I found a pdf for the general w213 manual from MB USA, but it mentions nothing about hybrid stuff at all. I guess even just photos of the pages of such manuals will get me going well enough.
non hybrid questions
6. I did put a protector coverage on my headlights, but is there some protection for the front camera lenses (from the 360 setup) ? It seems its on the most vulnerable place in the front grill and some pieces of sand or small rocks can smash it or at least scratch it.
7. I am not German and I use the car in English language. When playing a song from the USB, when I press 'media information' in the infotainment system, the menu goes into German language and I cannot even go back , the only option is to press the home button to exit from everything. Is there a way to completely eradicate the German language from the infotainment system ?
Thanks in advance guys, I would really appreciate any comments or answers, it would really help me a lot !!
Regards,
Hristo
D
Deleted member 126969
Guest
Welcome @adrenaline12
1. The projected EV range is just a guess, and is influenced by previous journeys. It's likely the dealer reset everything, so the car will assume best-case...and lie even more than they usually do about how far a charge will go.
100% charge is 100% charged, it doesn't matter how quick or how slow you get there. I honestly don't think there is any real advantage to charging at lower than 16A (assuming you have a wall-charger) as this is only about 3.6kW. Consider how much power the battery gets when you are using maximum regeneration-braking - it'll be more than that, and of course, maximum drain is 80kW.
If you are using the 'granny charger' ( the 'plug-in brick') I;d advise limiting charge to 10A, just to protect the socket you get your mains power from.
2. It lies. Any use of the heater/AC will dramatically reduce the predicted range, any use of the throttle does the same. You should find it becomes a bit less inaccurate as time passes and it 'learns' your typical journey and driving style.
3. Never had that on my C350e. ECO and SPORT are different from the hybrid driving mode and I'm not aware of ANY reason why it should spontaneously change on it's own. Might be worth mentioning that to the dealer.
4. I don't think it'll make a significant difference unless the weather is cold. When cold, it's better to charge just before you set off, simply so that the battery and cooling system is all warmed up and won't have suffered low temperature capacity loss. The self-discharge on these is pretty small.
Sorry, I've got nothing for 5, 6 & 7
I don't know how things are in Germany, but over here, buying a 'Certified Used MB' just seems to mean you pay more than you need to, then have the 'joy' of finding all the things wrong with the car that the dealer ignored and hoped you wouldn't find (assuming they even bothered to look), then trying to get them to first acknowledge the faults, and second, actually fix them.
1. The projected EV range is just a guess, and is influenced by previous journeys. It's likely the dealer reset everything, so the car will assume best-case...and lie even more than they usually do about how far a charge will go.
100% charge is 100% charged, it doesn't matter how quick or how slow you get there. I honestly don't think there is any real advantage to charging at lower than 16A (assuming you have a wall-charger) as this is only about 3.6kW. Consider how much power the battery gets when you are using maximum regeneration-braking - it'll be more than that, and of course, maximum drain is 80kW.
If you are using the 'granny charger' ( the 'plug-in brick') I;d advise limiting charge to 10A, just to protect the socket you get your mains power from.
2. It lies. Any use of the heater/AC will dramatically reduce the predicted range, any use of the throttle does the same. You should find it becomes a bit less inaccurate as time passes and it 'learns' your typical journey and driving style.
3. Never had that on my C350e. ECO and SPORT are different from the hybrid driving mode and I'm not aware of ANY reason why it should spontaneously change on it's own. Might be worth mentioning that to the dealer.
4. I don't think it'll make a significant difference unless the weather is cold. When cold, it's better to charge just before you set off, simply so that the battery and cooling system is all warmed up and won't have suffered low temperature capacity loss. The self-discharge on these is pretty small.
Sorry, I've got nothing for 5, 6 & 7
I don't know how things are in Germany, but over here, buying a 'Certified Used MB' just seems to mean you pay more than you need to, then have the 'joy' of finding all the things wrong with the car that the dealer ignored and hoped you wouldn't find (assuming they even bothered to look), then trying to get them to first acknowledge the faults, and second, actually fix them.
, in the midlands we call that "harsh but true" .raspy
Active Member
I used a ride hailing app in London last night and was expecting another 5 year old Prius, but a brand new VW ID3 EV turned up. The driver had just got it and I was his 2nd passenger.
He used to use a recent E class diesel but was spending £600 a month on diesel which was eating into his ability to earn a decent wage, so he switched to the ID3
I was considering one to replace my C350e once life becomes normal-ish, but had never been in one.
I'm over 6ft and not a small chap, but was shocked at how much room was in the back seat (the car is 1cm shorter than a Golf) - it felt roomier than the E class taxis I sometimes take. A lot of EVs have such high floors in the rear (due to the battery) that you feel like your knees are up to your ears if you're tall, but again, surprised at how comfortable I was in terms of support from the rear bench.
Handling was good and car felt well controlled as he zipped in and out of traffic in London, and despite him keeping the car in Eco (slowest) mode, the car felt quick, 0-20mph.
The biggest issue I had compared to my C350e was that the ride quality was quite firm (for my liking), and often crashy when it came to the crappy London streets. I even noticed the driver steering around bumps at the last minute (as many drivers with firm or worn out suspensions seem to do) - I prefer the much softer ride of airmatic with 17 inch wheels on my C350e
He used to use a recent E class diesel but was spending £600 a month on diesel which was eating into his ability to earn a decent wage, so he switched to the ID3
I was considering one to replace my C350e once life becomes normal-ish, but had never been in one.
I'm over 6ft and not a small chap, but was shocked at how much room was in the back seat (the car is 1cm shorter than a Golf) - it felt roomier than the E class taxis I sometimes take. A lot of EVs have such high floors in the rear (due to the battery) that you feel like your knees are up to your ears if you're tall, but again, surprised at how comfortable I was in terms of support from the rear bench.
Handling was good and car felt well controlled as he zipped in and out of traffic in London, and despite him keeping the car in Eco (slowest) mode, the car felt quick, 0-20mph.
The biggest issue I had compared to my C350e was that the ride quality was quite firm (for my liking), and often crashy when it came to the crappy London streets. I even noticed the driver steering around bumps at the last minute (as many drivers with firm or worn out suspensions seem to do) - I prefer the much softer ride of airmatic with 17 inch wheels on my C350e
D
Deleted member 126969
Guest
Far be it for me to praise the C350e for anything ...but the ride is very comfortable. Of course, it's not to everyones taste either, some folk prefer a firmer ride. The other MBs I've driven as loaners have all felt very different. Drove a nearly new Hyundai i30 the other day - very firm ride indeed.
I do have cars with a very firm ride as well, but for wafting along, the C350e is nice.
...but the ride is very comfortable. Of course, it's not to everyones taste either, some folk prefer a firmer ride. The other MBs I've driven as loaners have all felt very different. Drove a nearly new Hyundai i30 the other day - very firm ride indeed.I do have cars with a very firm ride as well, but for wafting along, the C350e is nice.
Just wanted to ask about charging...
So I used to charge with my wall mounted charger and the car set at 13a max.
I changed the setting on the car to maximum... It starts at 15a but doesn't seem to be able to keep it for long and then gradually tapers down to 9a.
It seems better to keep it on the 13a setting as it constantly holds 12a.
(figures are from the EO app)
So I used to charge with my wall mounted charger and the car set at 13a max.
I changed the setting on the car to maximum... It starts at 15a but doesn't seem to be able to keep it for long and then gradually tapers down to 9a.
It seems better to keep it on the 13a setting as it constantly holds 12a.
(figures are from the EO app)
D
Deleted member 126969
Guest
Always charge ours at 16A from the Rolec and don’t see the current tail off until near the end of charging (as you’d expect). Monitoring indirectly with either the Tesla Powerwall or Solaredge software.
Could be the charger/battery cooling system isn‘t keeping up??