CDI injector bolt repair Time Sert

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No worries, I received your bung today thanks.

I would just like to say if anyone is thinking of buying the cleaning kit W 668 589 00 68 00 it's only worth paying a tenner(not £45 as I paid) for as it is simply some 20mm/3/4" steel thin wire bore brushes. If this is the only kit available to you save your money and just use any available thin wire steel bore brush (ebay about £3).

The other kit on the other hand (W 611 589 00 68 00) is indispensible as it also contains the bungs to put in the injector holes. This is defo worth paying for if you can get hold of one.
 
Just a heads up............

Be careful as some cheaper brushes loose the wire strands, and if people use the cheap brushes without the bungs they don't realize the wires have entered the cylinder via the injector hole.

I have never had wire come loose or fall off the Mercedes brushes and the kits last around a year the cheap ones a few uses and they are done with.

I know as I have tried many different types to keep costs down but OEM is they way on this as is OEM injector washers :)
 
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Just trying to get the injector out now and have a slide hammer type extractor ready to use where I have to unscrew the top half of the injector(29mm) but am worried the top part of the injector that the electrical connector goes into has no room to turn as I turn the 29mm part.

Will it just give if I apply some more torque?
 
if the vehicle can be started run it up normal engine temp turn off and remove the injector (should make it easier).

I use a injector extractor with Mercedes support ring to prevent camshaft cover damage.

The tool should screw inside the injector body, after removing the solenoid there's the solenoid, shim, spring and valve, with
the valve seat retaining nut, you can remove it with a large allen key, the removal adapter screws into the body of the injector
then you can hammer away.

Remember its best to have the injector/s re-calibrated before refitting.

:)
 
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Thanks, I got it off now. The slide hammer kit I got just screws right on top of the injector when I took this part off (as shown in BlackC55's post).

The spacer and spring fell out - I understand the spacer goes in FIRST and the spring SECOND if I am correct. I was soooo lucky to find these as they flew out across the engine :D

70D37695-ADF3-4E2C-B5A0-233254963804-593-000000D6F1A7C006_zpsb3ab2430.jpg
 
Here's one of the kits I use most to remove the injectors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Htgz-AMmZMo

I have a Klann kit for really stubborn ones.

I don't like to use a slide hammer as it can distort the injector body.
But.........
If its a one way ticket to the bin for the injector then fine :)

There's a small ball bearing that acts as a valve , it usually goes flying off into the sunset............
The injector wont function without this so make sure its there :)
Number 5
sprinter_injector_common_rail_bosch.jpg
 
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Thankfully after letting the injector soak in carb cleaner overnight it came out real easy with the slide hammer - I made a point of very light tapping and eased it out. Couldn't afford a new one anyway so it'll have to do.

The seat was badly pitted so I reamed it out (requires 17X17mm flat reamer) and greased the reamer(this picked up all the swarf).

Someone has already repaired the bolt hole thread with an M8 X 1.25 hole, its quite shallow and looks like a steel insert but hard to tell. Anyway I torqued to 15 then 20Nm with the previously installed bolt (40mm) and am going to see how it goes I ran out of daylight today and will finish it tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
 
You might be lucky and it works ok, but usually they need re-calibrating if taken apart to remove them.
 
Well it's had a hundred miles on it since the injector was put back together and so far so good if anything it feels better than it did before.

I did throw a wynns diesel injector cleaner in the fuel tank straight away for good measure(which BTW completly stopped this car smoking when I used it once before 3000 miles ago, no smoke at all since - I highly rate the stuff).

I would just like to say thank you for all the help and advice and for creating this post in the first place there really is a lot of good info here.
 
Hi All,

New to the forum but always looking at different ways of repairing these clamps.

Great write up but I just wondered how you would remove the cam cover if ever needed once you have fitted a Time Sert as the Time Sert is in effect fastening the cam cover to the head.
 
Ask yourself - would it make sense for the threaded section of the clamp bolt holes to be made of 2 pieces of metal? No.
 
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Hi, sorry don't quite understand your reply. The cam cover does not have a thread in it and has a clearance diameter which is bigger than the hole in the head. As you have to put a counterbore at the top which is now in the cam cover for the Timesert to sit in the Time Sert in effect bolts the cam cover to the cylinder head.

I would have thought the only way you could use a Time Sert would be to remove the cam cover first and fit the Time Sert into the cylinder head.
 
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They don't hold the cam cover down they only go straight down into the cylinder head.
 
I know the injector clamp bolt does not hold the cam cover down but by using a Time Sert which has a larger diameter at the top which you have to cut a counterbore for once the Time Sert is installed this larger diameter will not go through the 8.3mm hole you need to drill and in effect fastens the cam cover to the head.
 
Cam cover is easy, 10 bolts and it's off
 
Cam cover is easy enough but you need to take out the remaining injectors first which is tempting fate on many engines.
 
Has anyone tried the Time Sert 1610E2 kit it is designed for mercedes, it has extended cutter and insert tool and doesn't require the flange to be cut. It comes with a 17mm insert and uses the original bolt from Mercedes. No need to remove the rocker cover.
 
I mentioned the Mercedes recommended time-sert in the first post I made and found the kit I listed to be preferable
as the weakness is the Mercedes oem bolt.

Some camshaft covers will need drilling through to apply the time-sert directly to the head.

Or

You can just drill it out if the camshaft cover ever needs removing.
 
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Why would have the engineers at Mercedes used such a small bolt an buried so deep and close to the water jacket? When the could have easily threaded the hole closer to the top and also used a bigger bolt. Maybe they were predicting the failure and allowing for multiple repairs.
Good job on the post very well done.
One more question why not just use a Helicoil. They provide a better spread of the the load from the bolt .
 

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