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Changing Disks and Pads on a CLK55 W208

machasm

Active Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2005
Messages
576
Location
Poole Dorset
HI All,
I have just changed the front disks on my CLK55 AMG myself and thought that I would make a write up for others.
Please bear in mind that I am not a professional and feel free to comment where you believe I may have slipped up.

1) Loosen the wheel nuts on the front wheel before jacking. Then jack the car up and support using axel stands or other means. DO NOT rely wholly on the jack. Once the road wheel is removed you should see something like this
old%20disk.jpg
Old%20disk.JPG


2) Remove the clip circled in the picture above by prising it out at the points indicated. Put to one side.

3) Now using a 7mm Allen key undo the 2 bolts securing the calipers to the carrier.

4) Prise open the old pads and then pull the whole assembly away from the disk.

5) Remove the wear sensor and old pads from caliper.

6) Ensure that the caliper is supported whilst you begin removing the disk.

7) Undo the small retaining screw that secures the disk to the hub using a 5mm allen key.

8) Using a 16mm socket remove the 2 screws that hold the caliper carrier to the hub (I am not sure of the terminology here). Note that these use a thread locking compound which will need to be renewed when fixing the new disk back in.

9) Finally remove the disk from the hub (mine just fell off but sometimes they can stick. Usually a few taps with a mallet should loosen it).

10) You should see somehting like this image
hub.jpg
Hub.JPG


11) Before fitting the new disk to the hub observe that the disks are handed the image below is for a left handed disk.
New%20disk%20without%20carrier.JPG


12) I used a copper grease on the face of the hub to prevent corrosion between the disk and hub so that removal of the disk in the future might be easier. You can omit this if you want.

new%20disk%20without%20carrier.jpg


13) Secure the disk using the 5mm allen key screw to the hub.

14) Using a thread locking compound fit the caliper carrier.

15) Next fit the new wear sensor to the new pad (the one with the locating brackets)

pad%20with%20sensor.jpg
Pad%20with%20sensor.JPG


16) Push the pots in the caliper as far back as required remembering to allow enough clearance to fit the new pads over the new disk.

17) Fit the pads into the caliper

18) Now fit the caliper with the pads to the new disk. (This can be quite tight please try to avoid straining the brake lines when doing this).

19) Refit the two 7mm allen key bolts back through the caliper into the carrier.

20) Fit wear sensor into receptacle.

21) Refit the retaining clip that was removed in step 2

22) Refit roadwheel and tighten wheel nuts to specified torque (110NM)

23) Repeat procedure for right wheel.

24) After fitting ensure that the new pads and disks are bedded in!

Thats it.

Mac
 
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Excellent post,of the type you see on American forums but us Britishers don't do for some reason..
Worth mentioning that when you push the pistons in (I use a g-clamp) make sure the brake fluid reservoir does't overflow as it strips paint.Normally you have to remove some with a teaspoon or baster.


adam
 
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You are quite correct with the brake fluid concern. I had forgotten to mention it as I had already syringed some out of the reservoir prior to starting the job.

Any more for anymore?

Mac.
 
Kudos too for having a valuable performance car and denying the £165 an hour boys from robbing you blind :bannana: :D :bannana:

adam
 
Mac, great write-up. Good on you for doing it yourself. Did you clean up, maybe even paint, the calipers whilst you had them apart?

Gearbox oil change and spark plugs next please :D
 
Nice write up Mach.

Just a quick one. Where did you get the parts from? Were they MB or Euro Car Parts or similar?

Also price if you don't mind?


Cheers

Shaun
 
Thmsshaun said:
Nice write up Mach.

Just a quick one. Where did you get the parts from? Were they MB or Euro Car Parts or similar?

Also price if you don't mind?


Cheers

Shaun
I changed the disks all round i.e. the backs as well.
I got the rear disks from Europarts at a price of £29.90 each
Pads for rears were £39.90 for a set i.e 4 pads

I bought the fronts from a stealership at £163 each
Pads were £117.35

All prices are NOT including VAT.

Mac.
 
AMG stuff is expensive ...

But the brakes are very good.

machasm said:
I bought the fronts from a stealership at £163 each
Pads were £117.35

All prices are NOT including VAT.

Mac.
 
For anyone considering doing this themselves, it may be worth contacting jimmy for prices as he runs a motor factors (the site of a couple of GTGs). I got my discs and pads from him.
 
Excellent have a :bannana: and some rep points.
 
great write up Mach. Thanks.

However, I never knew that you had to make sure you put the correct discs on the correct side, ie the left or the right, or is it only for AMG's. I've never encountered this on my W124. Thanks.
 
Vips said:
great write up Mach. Thanks.

However, I never knew that you had to make sure you put the correct discs on the correct side, ie the left or the right, or is it only for AMG's. I've never encountered this on my W124. Thanks.

Not sure on other models but these were definately handed.
I think it is down to the way the vents were shaped. They were splayed in a radial fashion. I.e they did not go directly from outer edge to hub but ran in a spiral inwards.
Can anyone confirm?
However they were stamped L and R.
The rears, however, were not handed and had vents that went straight towards the centre.
Hope that helps.
Mac.
 
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grober said:
Excellent post congrats. :) Similar post on ML brakes (calipers similar but single piston only??) with some more photos. http://www.furgasonhomes.com/ml/brakes98ml.htm Two things come to mind to complete the picture. First did you use high temp brake grease to lubricate the pad backing plates. Second always best to remind folks to wear a good dust mask. :eek: See my comments in this thread http://mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=14735

Thanks for your comments.
I used a copper grease because I wasn't aware that there was a special grease just for this purpose.
The reason I used copper grease was that I found it widely used on other marques (ahem) when visiting their forums.

As for the dust mask that is good advice. Might explain why I am still wheezing ;)

Mac.
 
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Great post ,just one thing, don't forget to press the brake pedal a few times before you move the car to push the pads out to the discs , or on the first application the pedal will go straight to the floor,not a nice feeling !!
 

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