Changing Disks and Pads on a CLK55 W208
Excellant post.
I need to do mine now, on all four corners. Stealership want over 600 quid to replace all discs and pads. (W208 320)
I'm concerned about making a hash of it!!!
How do I find out what discs and pads (model numbers etc) I need and where should I get them from? Is there a particular manufacturer that I need to go for?
Is it possible to use the same as MB dealership would use but without their crazy prices?
All help much appreciated.
Shr.
I need to do mine now, on all four corners. Stealership want over 600 quid to replace all discs and pads. (W208 320)
I'm concerned about making a hash of it!!!
How do I find out what discs and pads (model numbers etc) I need and where should I get them from? Is there a particular manufacturer that I need to go for?
Is it possible to use the same as MB dealership would use but without their crazy prices?
All help much appreciated.
Shr.
grober
MB Master
EPC web site
try eurocarparts site http://www.eurocarparts.com/default.asp
Key in your MAKE/model/year etc and navigate to the brakes section for your mode. you may get a choice of parts go for the OEM spec parts TEXTAR or ATE are fine.
I would check dealer parts prices also since much of the cost of brake replacement is labour. 
If you are not confident about working on brakes then entrust the work to a good independent.
try eurocarparts site http://www.eurocarparts.com/default.asp
Key in your MAKE/model/year etc and navigate to the brakes section for your mode. you may get a choice of parts go for the OEM spec parts TEXTAR or ATE are fine.
I would check dealer parts prices also since much of the cost of brake replacement is labour. If you are not confident about working on brakes then entrust the work to a good independent.The HOW TO makes it look as though it's something I can do myself, but I don't really wanna take a chance with something as important as brakes.
I'll ring around a couple of places. I believe there's an MB specialist in my area that should be able to help.
What sort of price is reasoable from a specialist?
I'll ring around a couple of places. I believe there's an MB specialist in my area that should be able to help.
What sort of price is reasoable from a specialist?
grober
MB Master
Get a QUOTE
Best to get a quote but I would guess about 50% of dealer cost maybe bit less. Dont know exactly cos I do my own.
Best to get a quote but I would guess about 50% of dealer cost maybe bit less. Dont know exactly cos I do my own.
Just been speaking to a guy in the office. He says, "Do It Yourself. Brakes are brakes, no matter what you drive!!"
I must admit, I am very tempted to give it a go myself. This forum has helped me in the past (retrofitting APS30 unit) but I do worry about mechanical stuff.
You hear about getting air in the pipes and then needing to bleeding the brakes, and stuff like that.
Will have a long think about it tonight over a very large drink!!!
I must admit, I am very tempted to give it a go myself. This forum has helped me in the past (retrofitting APS30 unit) but I do worry about mechanical stuff.
You hear about getting air in the pipes and then needing to bleeding the brakes, and stuff like that.
Will have a long think about it tonight over a very large drink!!!
machasm
Active Member
mr. shr said:
As long as there are no breaks in the line or you don't pop the calipers right out then you shouldn't get any air in the system and that means you wont have to bleed it.
It is pretty straightforward although in my case I did have a bit of trouble removing one of the rear discs as it had pretty much corroded onto the hub.
Managed to free it in the end by more unorthodox means. I ended up raising both rear wheels, removed all the wheel nuts and locating screw from disc then left the caliper in place. Started the engine, put it into drive then hit the brakes! this clamped the disc tight whilst the disc spun off the hub with the torque of the engine just idling! Scary moment though but it worked.
Mac.
OK so I'm gonna take off the driving wheels one by one and examine the discs and pads (not sure what I am really looking for, assuming there will be something obvious) to make sure they actually need changing and not just the stealership trying for more money.
Anything specific I should be looking for?
Anything specific I should be looking for?
grober
MB Master
better to be safe than sorry.
From your comments I think you should leave it to a professional. At THE VERY LEAST get help the first time from an experienced person who has done this kind of work before. As to what to look for:- The discs have a minimum recommended thickness, it varies from disc to disc depending on the original dimensions. a good garage will measure this with a special caliper type gauge. You are also looking for runout/warping,deep scoring, major corrosion or pitting on the operating surfaces of the disc. Any cracks require prompt attention to avoid sudden failure. Pads should move freely in the calipers. Pad locating pins and springs should be free of major corrosion. Pads should have a minimum of 3 mm thickness left tho many people recommend changing before this to stop the possibility of the caliper pistons "cocking sideways" when extended. Most people who do this type of DIY work on brakes "cut their teeth" by starting on cheap old cars which had simple hydraulic systems and restricted performance/weight profiles. With high performance heavy expensive cars like mercedes you really need to know what you are doing and that only comes with experience! Sorry to be so negative but better to be safe than sorry.
mr. shr said:
From your comments I think you should leave it to a professional. At THE VERY LEAST get help the first time from an experienced person who has done this kind of work before. As to what to look for:- The discs have a minimum recommended thickness, it varies from disc to disc depending on the original dimensions. a good garage will measure this with a special caliper type gauge. You are also looking for runout/warping,deep scoring, major corrosion or pitting on the operating surfaces of the disc. Any cracks require prompt attention to avoid sudden failure. Pads should move freely in the calipers. Pad locating pins and springs should be free of major corrosion. Pads should have a minimum of 3 mm thickness left tho many people recommend changing before this to stop the possibility of the caliper pistons "cocking sideways" when extended. Most people who do this type of DIY work on brakes "cut their teeth" by starting on cheap old cars which had simple hydraulic systems and restricted performance/weight profiles. With high performance heavy expensive cars like mercedes you really need to know what you are doing and that only comes with experience! Sorry to be so negative but better to be safe than sorry.
grober
MB Master
Better safe than sorry!
The minimum worn disc thickness seems to be about ( new dimension-2mm)
one documented example for ventilated front discs on a w 202
new 22mm
minimum (before repair) 20.4 mm
minimum (limit) 19.4mm
maximun runout 0.12mm
best to check the minimum MERCEDES figures for your particular model.
I imagine the brakes will still operate below these levels but braking efficiency/safety will be reduced.
The minimum worn disc thickness seems to be about ( new dimension-2mm)
one documented example for ventilated front discs on a w 202
new 22mm
minimum (before repair) 20.4 mm
minimum (limit) 19.4mm
maximun runout 0.12mm
best to check the minimum MERCEDES figures for your particular model.
I imagine the brakes will still operate below these levels but braking efficiency/safety will be reduced.
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machasm
Active Member
Even if you don't do the change yourself you could at least look at the brakes to see if you are getting ripped off.mr. shr said:
You should be looking to see if the discs have an excessive lip. Normally if the lip is greater than 1 mm on both sides (2mm overall) then the discs are probably nearing the point when they should be replaced.
Also check the pads, if there is less than about 3mm of pad material left then these will also need replacing.
When replacing discs I always replace the pads as well.
Also change discs in pairs.
So if your dealer says that you have a disc that needs replacing then (when you verify) you will need to replace a pair of discs and a set of pads at the very least.
mac.
I'm taking the car to a specialist tomorrow.
He's priced me up (over the phone) to change the lot (front and rear discs and pads) at 416 quid. Stealer wants about 600 quid.
I got talking to the guy and asked about some other things that I think need doing. After a while he realised that I was basically reading him a list of things that the Dealership had said I need doing.
He said that probably only half (if not less) would actually need doing at all. He then said to bring the car in and he'll have a look for himself. Probably only needs pads.
So we'll see tomorrow.
But I did take off the driver's side front wheel. It doesn't exactly look brand new but I can't really tell if the disc needs replacing. It not exactly smooth when I run my finger across the surface.
I've taken some pics.
How do I get these pics on here so that you can see them?
He's priced me up (over the phone) to change the lot (front and rear discs and pads) at 416 quid. Stealer wants about 600 quid.
I got talking to the guy and asked about some other things that I think need doing. After a while he realised that I was basically reading him a list of things that the Dealership had said I need doing.
He said that probably only half (if not less) would actually need doing at all. He then said to bring the car in and he'll have a look for himself. Probably only needs pads.
So we'll see tomorrow.
But I did take off the driver's side front wheel. It doesn't exactly look brand new but I can't really tell if the disc needs replacing. It not exactly smooth when I run my finger across the surface.
I've taken some pics.
How do I get these pics on here so that you can see them?
grober
MB Master
first impression is the front discs look OK. I,ve seen a lot worse. Difficult to see from the pics with the marks (fingers?) on the disc. Pity you didnt give them a bit of a clean up with brake cleaner. the whole assembly is a bit corroded and would probably benefit from a good clean up/regreasing of the pad/caliper surfaces.your independant should be able to measure the disc wear accurately. He is in the best position to judge. Its really a question of braking efficiency. worn discs will work OK probably good enough to pass an MOT but-------- your brakes wont work to their design efficiency. If you want the brakes to work as they did when the car was new then discs worn down to the limits given above should be replaced.
I was convinced that you would say they definitely need replacing. Some of the other pics I have really do look bad but they are too big to put on the forum. When I reduce the size so that I can post them here, quite a lot of the quality goes, so there's little point in putting them here.
I didn't realise that there is a way of cleaning them up. The calipers look quite corroded. Is there a substance to sort that out?
But to be honest, I'm convinced that there is something wrong.
I don't use the car very often, it usually just sits on the drive.
But this morning, I drove it to work (cos i'm going to the independent straight after work). When I backed it off the driveway, I could hear some kind of noise from outside the car. Not sure how to describe it, but suppose it was some kind of "rubbing" noise. And it wasn't just as I eased my foot off the brake pedal. It seemed to make a noise with my foot completely off the pedal. I turned the radio down and tried to listen as I drove forward. It's difficult to tell if the noise is still there as I pick up speed, cos the engine revs and road noise could be covering it up.
Maybe I'm being paranoid!!
I didn't realise that there is a way of cleaning them up. The calipers look quite corroded. Is there a substance to sort that out?
But to be honest, I'm convinced that there is something wrong.
I don't use the car very often, it usually just sits on the drive.
But this morning, I drove it to work (cos i'm going to the independent straight after work). When I backed it off the driveway, I could hear some kind of noise from outside the car. Not sure how to describe it, but suppose it was some kind of "rubbing" noise. And it wasn't just as I eased my foot off the brake pedal. It seemed to make a noise with my foot completely off the pedal. I turned the radio down and tried to listen as I drove forward. It's difficult to tell if the noise is still there as I pick up speed, cos the engine revs and road noise could be covering it up.
Maybe I'm being paranoid!!
grober
MB Master
lEAVE IT TO THE PROFESSIONAL FOR PEACE OF MIND
Sounds as if you should let you independant check out your brakes to put your mind at rest. It might not turn out as expensive as you fear. Ironically if you have problems its probably due to not using the car enough rather than wear. With a good cleanup and renewal of a few parts things will be back to normal.
Sounds as if you should let you independant check out your brakes to put your mind at rest. It might not turn out as expensive as you fear. Ironically if you have problems its probably due to not using the car enough rather than wear. With a good cleanup and renewal of a few parts things will be back to normal.
I agree. I think the only way I'll get piece of mind is if I take it to someone that can see the car and tell me what's acceptable and what's not.
But my biggest worry is that I'm concerned the gear box might be on it's way out. When I took the car to the Stealership for a service last week, I asked them if they could find a fault with my gear box.
Basically, when I put my foot right to the floor and engage kickdown (eg. when I come off a roundabout and onto a dual carriageway [between 30 and 40 mph]) the gear box drops down to second gear as expected. As the car accelerates away, at about 58MPH it changes up to third (provided my foot is still on the floor)
But the thing is, that transition from second to third is really harsh. As third gear engages, the car jolts forward making for a very unsmooth gear change.
It's not as apparent between third and fourth but I can't test that very often as I need to be doing about 98 mph to experience that gear change. (Will never get to know what it's like between fourh and fifth unless I pay a visit to the autobahn)
Anyway, Stealership said 135 pounds to inspect g/box sump and filter for swarf and then what ever they feel like charging after that to TRY and fix the problem. Far too vague for my liking so hope my independent can do something. Although, over the phone he seems to think, either a whole new box or just live with it.
Basically, all I’m worried about is, will the box just suddenly decide to die on me?!?! Do you have any experience/knowledge of this?
(Car is almost 6 years old and done 67k)
But my biggest worry is that I'm concerned the gear box might be on it's way out. When I took the car to the Stealership for a service last week, I asked them if they could find a fault with my gear box.
Basically, when I put my foot right to the floor and engage kickdown (eg. when I come off a roundabout and onto a dual carriageway [between 30 and 40 mph]) the gear box drops down to second gear as expected. As the car accelerates away, at about 58MPH it changes up to third (provided my foot is still on the floor)
But the thing is, that transition from second to third is really harsh. As third gear engages, the car jolts forward making for a very unsmooth gear change.
It's not as apparent between third and fourth but I can't test that very often as I need to be doing about 98 mph to experience that gear change. (Will never get to know what it's like between fourh and fifth unless I pay a visit to the autobahn)
Anyway, Stealership said 135 pounds to inspect g/box sump and filter for swarf and then what ever they feel like charging after that to TRY and fix the problem. Far too vague for my liking so hope my independent can do something. Although, over the phone he seems to think, either a whole new box or just live with it.
Basically, all I’m worried about is, will the box just suddenly decide to die on me?!?! Do you have any experience/knowledge of this?
(Car is almost 6 years old and done 67k)
I've enlarged your pics and the pads are only half worn. If you are a low mileage driver I would do nothing yet apart from go out and give the brakes a good workout to clear the surface rust on the discs and get them good and hot.
When you do change the pads you will need new discs, there is quite a big ridge.
As for the gearbox again there is probably nothing wrong an oil change wouldn't fix.
adam
When you do change the pads you will need new discs, there is quite a big ridge.
As for the gearbox again there is probably nothing wrong an oil change wouldn't fix.
adam
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Trouble is, after all this talk of "do my discs need changing/don't they?" I'm paranoid about driving the brakes hard in case they fail!!! Drama Queen I know, but I like the current shape of my motor 
People have mentioned chaning the oil (fluid??) on the g/box, but Stealer didn't mention it when I explained the prob to them. I didn't want to tell them to do something that I don't know enough about.
Do you reckon I should ask my indy for an oil/fluid (are they the same thing??) change?
People have mentioned chaning the oil (fluid??) on the g/box, but Stealer didn't mention it when I explained the prob to them. I didn't want to tell them to do something that I don't know enough about.
Do you reckon I should ask my indy for an oil/fluid (are they the same thing??) change?
