CLS window regulator snapped cable repair DIY

[n13]

Push window down button for the driver side... *grind grind grind* window still up.

Ok. Regulator replacement time... how much?? About £100 on eBay and close to £250 for a new one. + Fitting?? I think I’ll have a see what’s wrong with it first:

Things you will probably need:

TX30, 25, 20
Panel removal tools


Removing CLS door card/panel:

-follow guide here

User: jparrott
File: Door card guide

Or Mercedes way here

Once the card is off, be careful with the wires, I disconnected them all makes things a lot easier.

Put the now removed card out of the way.


Removing regulator

I detached the motor from the regulator and pushed the window down to remove its clamping arrangement (thinking back, I should have marked up where the window is and where all the plates are). And then lifted the window right up and hooked its front mounting section over the seal.

Mercedes way: here

The nut near the door handle is accessed behind a small bung in the end of the door (90 degrees to the rest of the nuts) this nut only needs to be loosened but I just removed it...

The other 3 nuts are easy to find and remove.

It is a bit of a fiddle to remove the regulator but took me a min or so to solve the puzzle.


Once it’s out and you have the broken regulator:

Inside the house where it is warmer (including some bits I needed):

I found the cable a local car/bicycle parts shop (motor mania) I’m not sure what the cable is for as it had no sheath and both ends were terminated? But the critical parts were correct: 1.5mm diameter and 3m long is a good length.

Here is my plan of what the situation was:

the length of the wires is critical, ensure the crimps are positioned at the right length (deduct the length of the crimp if measure total length or slide crimp up to measured length as its the internal dimension which is critical)

Also before crimping anything, ensure all sheaths and other parts are on the cable beforehand! (I forgot at one point and had to file a crimp off)

I made the crimps out of aluminium about 6mm dia with a 1.6mm hole in the middle about 5 or 6mm long.

You will need 5 crimps in total.

Take a full dimensional survey before snipping anything as your wires maybe different lengths, as it happens all the dimensions I took turned out to be 940mm (see above)

I had to do lots of filing to get the new crimps to fit in the various slots.

I tried electrical crimps, but these pulled off:

I did have some trouble fitting the cable length adjuster, as it has some ratchet device in it, which makes it impossible to compress the spring fully if the cable is inserted. Therefore you have to compress the spring then insert the cable BEFORE you crimp the end...

Once all the cables are sorted you can start to reassemble the regulator:

It’s the same as disassembly, but winding the cable onto the wheel can be tricky especially scene as both wires need to be on at the same time.

Wind the cable coming from the top of the regulator first (with both sliders in the "up" position) should take 3/4 turns. The cable coming from the bottom of the regulator should go around maybe 0.25 of a turn (ensure the spring is still fully squashed on the length adjustment) once that's complete, you can release tension on the spring.

Double check the slide is being held by the crimp on the single crimp side and its pretty much ready to go... after some greasing!! I only had silicone grease:

Move the sliders up and down to ensure they work ok.


Refitting regulator

It goes back in the same way. I tried to line up the nuts with the marks that were previously there to ensure the regulator goes back in the same place. (As the window alignment will take a while) align and marking on the window if done so.

Once it’s all bolted in, reconnect the wiring for the regulator motor and the door card (should be able to have the door open on the 1st click and still have all the wires connected) just be very careful with the little ribbon cables for the door lights. These rip off very easily if the door card drops (I know)

Now a test can be conducted, followed by lots of adjustments. Ensure the window is in the same place as it was when the motor was disconnected (in my case it was up - as I pushed the window back down)

When testing the window with the door closed (to check seal) you will need the little black piece of plastic from around the door latching mechanism fitted, as this pushed the door closed switch. And operated the little movement that occurs when the door is closed. (Took me a little time to figure that out)


and that's pretty much it.

a £2 cable and a couple of hours doing something i find fun. win win situation.


hope it helps somebody else as it seems to be fault everybody will see at some point.

 

[Sjw]

Thank you for posting this fitted a new regulator today would never have managed it without you information saved me lots of money . Thanks again

 

[Zulu 10]

Thank you for a brilliant write up. I’ve just repaired my CLS and would offer a few extra tips if that’s ok:

1) The length adjuster needn’t be held together with ty-wraps: it has a small drilling in the outer body and a corresponding hole in the inner. Before threading the cable through, the two can be held together against the spring pressure trying to separate them, and a pin inserted to lock the two parts in the compressed position.

2) Conversely I did use a pair of ty-wraps to hold together the cable tensioner whilst reassembling: One ty-wrap around the collar of the tensioner, and a second to hold that tight into the winder body through one of its mounting holes.

3) I found that the plastic lugs that normally hold the winder body onto the rear metal pillar were so brittle that they had snapped during disassembly, so I used a single ty-wrap to hold the winder body to the metal bracket when manoeuvring it all back into place. (I bolted the motor to the winder only once everything else was back in the door and bolted up, and after I had connect the glass and made sure that everything was free to move.)

4) I found that normal bicycle cable is rather stiffer than the original M-B cable and a bit of searching led me to a company in Somerset called Tecni Cable www.tecni-cable.co.uk who sell extra flexible 7x19 stainless wire rope 1.5mm diameter for about a £1 per metre (their part number is 604-00-015) and 1.5mm stainless ferrules (208-606-015) at £1.30 each.
I tried using their cheaper copper ferrules but to no avail – the only ones that work are the stainless ones crimped hard in a vice!
(By the way I have no connection with them – just a very satisfied customer – their delivery was within 24 hours)

5) Strangely, the lengths of the original cables on my car didn’t match those of the OP’s drawing so I’d suggest that anyone else tries to measure their old cables if at all possible.

6) I couldn’t find a cat so instead I used to some bubble wrap to prevent subsequent door rattles!

Once again many thanks to the OP.

 

[V12]

Forums need more threads like this and more people like you!!!

 

[Sp!ke]

Agreed - great post N13. A copy will be put in the "How To" section.

On a different note, I feel saddened that Mercedes have designed this mechanism with a cable and plastic and not metal gears. It is a good example of hidden cost cutting measures being imposed on the marque.

 

[n13]

Thank you for a brilliant write up. I’ve just repaired my CLS and would offer a few extra tips if that’s ok:

1) The length adjuster needn’t be held together with ty-wraps: it has a small drilling in the outer body and a corresponding hole in the inner. Before threading the cable through, the two can be held together against the spring pressure trying to separate them, and a pin inserted to lock the two parts in the compressed position.

2) Conversely I did use a pair of ty-wraps to hold together the cable tensioner whilst reassembling: One ty-wrap around the collar of the tensioner, and a second to hold that tight into the winder body through one of its mounting holes.

3) I found that the plastic lugs that normally hold the winder body onto the rear metal pillar were so brittle that they had snapped during disassembly, so I used a single ty-wrap to hold the winder body to the metal bracket when manoeuvring it all back into place. (I bolted the motor to the winder only once everything else was back in the door and bolted up, and after I had connect the glass and made sure that everything was free to move.)

4) I found that normal bicycle cable is rather stiffer than the original M-B cable and a bit of searching led me to a company in Somerset called Tecni Cable www.tecni-cable.co.uk who sell extra flexible 7x19 stainless wire rope 1.5mm diameter for about a £1 per metre (their part number is 604-00-015) and 1.5mm stainless ferrules (208-606-015) at £1.30 each.
I tried using their cheaper copper ferrules but to no avail – the only ones that work are the stainless ones crimped hard in a vice!
(By the way I have no connection with them – just a very satisfied customer – their delivery was within 24 hours)

5) Strangely, the lengths of the original cables on my car didn’t match those of the OP’s drawing so I’d suggest that anyone else tries to measure their old cables if at all possible.

6) I couldn't find a cat so instead I used to some bubble wrap to prevent subsequent door rattles!

Once again many thanks to the OP.

thanks for the follow-up and results.
I also did the repair on the passenger side regulator the other week (referring to my guide)
There are many ways to improve it and I can't argue with any of your editions:

1) I didn't notice this on mine, but it would have made the job a lot easier! good find.

3) I also snapped a few of them off. but like you say: once together; they don't really matter.

4) Once my regulator went the window dropped so I needed a quick fix (extra annoying since it is usually winter when it goes :/....) but your find seems much better I did look for some 7x19 (which I think Mercedes used) as bicycle cable is like more like the 1x19 or something it makes it difficult to wind onto the winding drum too...

5) good shout; always double, triple check! I had to redo a ferrule again too. very annoying.


glad to see people saving hundreds. nothing is impossible...

 

[Zulu 10]

Having repaired the passenger side in January, rather predictably the driver's side let go with an alarming bang on Friday.

Thankfully I'd over-ordered on parts from Tecni Cable last time so the repair was straightforward, though I spent more time examining the components this time, and the failure was in exactly the same position:

The inner bowden cable where it runs through the automatic tensioner is pulled tight against the metal 'ratchet' rack that effects the non-return function.

Consequently there's metal-on-metal contact and the control cable simply gets fretted away on the rack until the inevitable happens.

Even with a surfeit of grease on the cable during assembly I'm not convinced that the cable can be expected to last very long.

On a car with traditional 'framed' windows then yes maybe it would outlive the car, but on a car such as the CLS which is equipped with frameless windows where the window has to be lowered and raised every time the door is opened and closed, then constant fretting is inevitable and failure will follow, long before the design life of the car is exceeded....
.... though probably after the warranty has expired, so that's alright then.

 

[daveyw]

Thanks so much for all this great info.
Paid £250 last year to have passenger side fixed!!!!
Just done driver side today. Found this kit on ebay, £30.99!
Worked a treat. Could not have done it without all your help.
Here's a link.
Mercedes CLS (2004-2010) Front Right Window Regulator Repair Kit | eBay

 

[aka$h]

Repair kit now only £10.99,

Mercedes CLS window regulator repair kit / Front right 9658 | eBay

Can we get this updated onto the How-To, could save someone hours

 

[clk208]

Repair kit now only £10.99, Mercedes CLS window regulator repair kit / Front right 9658 | eBay Can we get this updated onto the How-To, could save someone hours

Good find. Have you used one of these kits? I've had another cable go recently so would be good to know if the kits are good.

 

[aka$h]

Yes I've used one, bought from a different seller. Took about 30 minutes on the bench to repair once the regulator was off.

 

[JeremyC]

Watch those ribbon cable connectors

Having tried this, I would like to add my thanks to those who have contributed to this thread.

I would like to add one warning - when removing the door trim panel/door lining, be very careful when pulling to release the trim clips from around its periphery at the front bottom corner and the rear edges. The ribbon cable(s) connecting the door window switch mounted on the trim panel to the electronic control unit in the door are VERY fragile and can be easily pulled out of their connectors.

The ribbon cables seem to be crimped into the connectors - a bit like Scotchloks - and it doesn't seem to be possible to repair them. So if you pull one out by jerking the trim panel too sharply/too much, you'll have to add the cost of the cable harness assembly to the bill.

As it seems obligatory to include cats in the photos posted, here's mine getting in on the act and telling me just exactly how I've just messed things up . . .

 

[PD9]

My window went tonight - crunch, crunch - a quick look on the forum and I stumble upon this thread - so grateful for helpful contributors! The lower price kits are sold out but I've pinged the seller a message, if they have no more stock I'll plump for the £15.00 kit. Front Right.

The passenger side has developed a squeak over the past 2 weeks; I thought it was with the heat on the glass and rubber, so I guess that may be on it's way out too!

 

[PD9]

As per post above, I attempted to give this a go, firstly ensuring the cable was the problem I done a quick recce after removing the door card to find the cable snapped and this:

thumbsnap.com/7iTB1EdF

After that I ordered the part from eBay using the links provided in this post.

The removal of the mechanism / regulator was a total bugger. My window was in the up position, however it was getting the regulator out that was a pain as some force was required. Inserted the new kit no bother, but found the wire would not stay in the winder and kept popping out. So on trying to install the mechanism back in the door to the window this just wasn't happening and after a few hours I pulled the mechanism back out and gave up.

thumbsnap.com/f/OAUpKEjn

One issue I had was the removal of the screw at the top left of the picture (circled red) This holds the left side of the drivers window, I had to pull the glass down to get this out. On re-install I didn't even get to this stage as I thought it would be 'impossible' to get to as the control box doesn't come away from the door.

In all guides I have seen it does not state where the window should be on removal or re-install? Anyways, I would like to give this another bash, but feel I may have the same issue and may be harder as all clips are now off the glass. I'm guessing this will be pretty difficult to put together again?

I called Mercedes Glasgow and a few independents; the price between £330 & £410 for replacement of this part! I negotiated with Mercedes Glasgow letting them know the regulator is out already so half the job is done; I just need to part installed correctly as I was struggling, but they will only put in thier own new part which I can understand, so they took some cost off for me. Currently the window is held up with tape from the underside within the door so not visible.

Any ideas or input would be appreciated.

 

[Cerijones]

I undertook this repair today.

I disconnected the winder motor whilst the window was in the raised position, then manually pushed the glass to the lowered position. This allows you access to the two screws which facilitate removal of the glass from the regulator. (To get at the front screw you will need to remove the speaker). Then I carefully lifted the window out of the door.

After repairing the regulator I placed it back in the door frame, securing the fixing bolts loosely to allow me to make adjustments after I inserted the glass. I secured the glass to the regulator with the window in the lowered position, then manually lowered and raised it until I was happy everything was aligned and moving freely. At this point I tightened the regulator fixing bolts, and ensured the window was fully raised to reconnect the motor. I did this in the fully raised position as the motor had been removed whilst the window was up. This through luck or judgement resulted in me not having to make any further adjustments to the regulator's alignment or travel.

Thanks to the OP for enabling me to save several hundred pounds.

 

[V12]

Just a note that the motor can be re-fitted in any position. It doesn't have cut off position switches, it is done through current load.

 

[PD9]

Thanks for the input. I'll give this another bash this week - the window is water tight at the moment, one thing I did notice was the wire would not stay on the reel when I fitted the new kit? Is it a case of getting full tension on the regulator first and it should stay on?

I did notice I could gain a whole lot more access to the window when I removed the speaker. I will have a look at getting the regulator back in the door and secured then try and assemble the window into the 'holding seats' as I gather this is the correct way to re-install as if the window was full down. No guides note where the window should be positioned when removing or re-installing. I previously posted pictures but doesn't look like they came through from the hosting site and cant edit my initial post so here they are again:

 

[Cerijones]

I could not get the right level of tension by routing both wires around the pulley system first, then taking up the slack around the plastic spool. There was always excess play, causing the wire to come away from the pulley or spool.

In the end I left the wire off the bottom pulley of the left hand leg of the regulator, wound up the excess on the spool then placed the spool back in the tensioner. This allowed me to wind sufficient cable onto the spool, to create enough tension in the regulator to hold the wire and spool in the correct place. After this, using a bit of force i routed the wire correctly over the above pulley. This may not be the recommended approach but it worked for me.

I refitted the glass into the regulator whilst it was in the down position, and this was the easiest stage for me personally. I had marked the glass around the holding plates prior to removal, and was able to use these reference points during installation.

 

[ian001]

Just done this repair on the passenger side front. With the help from the forum I was able to do this quite easily. Thank you for the help and the pictures that you have courteously put on here showing where everything is and what to do.

 

[fatlarry]

Hi all, I am a new member of this forum. I bought a CLS500 (2005-62,000 miles) a month ago, just had a minor problem with the p/f window cable breaking. The garage replaced the cable I bought,the problem is I think the window is to high in the door. The garage say the window has to be reprogramed by Mercedes,Mercedes say not necessary. I did the usual reset and I am pretty sure it has reset but the window is just to high. I can hear it try to drop the window when I try to open the door. Is there a way to adjust the hight of the window and test it with the door card open. Thank's in advance, Gary (not really fat)