E55K standard system improvements?
- Thread starter John
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You sent me my Ticket last week Alps!
Gate T, Area 5, whatever that means?
DOH, sry mate, im loosing track lol
we have 50 cars on the stand this year so its getting a bit manic, i will post more details on the TRAX thread later, look forward to meeting you and seeing the install!
OP
OP
Got our WA lunch next Sunday.
I'm guessing neither of you guys are going to Vmax then...
I'm thinking I might try the sub which you got installed, sinewave.
If I use the high level inputs from the stock sub - this may workout.
Anyone know if there a remote control / accessory wire in the boot which can be tapped for it?
I'm guessing neither of you guys are going to Vmax then...
I'm thinking I might try the sub which you got installed, sinewave.
If I use the high level inputs from the stock sub - this may workout.
Anyone know if there a remote control / accessory wire in the boot which can be tapped for it?
OP
OP
Yes - I noticed it was active. I looked at the specs and downloaded the manual last night.
Gone are the days when I am happy to fill my boot with 25ft of MDF in the shape of a box!
The only thing I might struggle with is finding the remote wire. The rest is easy.
I suppose I could just run a switch in a line from the battery but that smells too much of bodge to me.
The other question is whether to remove the old sub or just leave it redundant - I guess trial and error will reveal that.
I think I am happy with the overall volume - it's just the bass struggles a little.
(and I can't be rsed to take door panels off and run cables etc. etc. like you).
Gone are the days when I am happy to fill my boot with 25ft of MDF in the shape of a box!
The only thing I might struggle with is finding the remote wire. The rest is easy.
I suppose I could just run a switch in a line from the battery but that smells too much of bodge to me.
The other question is whether to remove the old sub or just leave it redundant - I guess trial and error will reveal that.
I think I am happy with the overall volume - it's just the bass struggles a little.
(and I can't be rsed to take door panels off and run cables etc. etc. like you).
sinewave
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The remote for the Sub is just so you can alter the amount/frequency of the Bass, TBH once you're happy with the levels you don't tend to touch it again so the wired remote can just be coiled up in one of the side pods.
Replacing the speakers doesn't require new wiring they just plug in to the existing wiring.
Power for the Amps etc is taken direct from the Battery in the boot so jobs relatively easy TBH.
I found standard volume levels to be atrocious with the standard setup outside of back ground radio
Replacing the speakers doesn't require new wiring they just plug in to the existing wiring.
Power for the Amps etc is taken direct from the Battery in the boot so jobs relatively easy TBH.
I found standard volume levels to be atrocious with the standard setup outside of back ground radio
OP
OP
Sorry - I'm talking about the remote control wire to switch it on and off (not the remote with controls on it)!
Ahh ok - so I wonder how your new door speakers are supplied by the amp you've got for them - I presume the channel wires to the doors have been spliced or similar in the boot...
sinewave
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First off, both amps switch them selves off if no Audio signal is present, so if the Comand Head unit is off then the Amps are off, there is no need to have a separate isolator/switch.
All the speakers are fed from the MB Audio Gateway in the boot so basically the output feeds to the speakers are cut and diverted to the Amp(s) inputs, then the Amp(s) outputs are crimped to the cutoff speaker inputs.
Simpleeeeeeessss! as the Meerkat says!
As long as you have a pin out diagram for the Audio Gateway (as nowt is marked up) then I'm told it's quite straight forward.
If, like me, you can't be ****d then just pay a local ICE shop to do it.
All the speakers are fed from the MB Audio Gateway in the boot so basically the output feeds to the speakers are cut and diverted to the Amp(s) inputs, then the Amp(s) outputs are crimped to the cutoff speaker inputs.
Simpleeeeeeessss! as the Meerkat says!
As long as you have a pin out diagram for the Audio Gateway (as nowt is marked up) then I'm told it's quite straight forward.
If, like me, you can't be ****d then just pay a local ICE shop to do it.
OP
OP
Ah ok - it shows the remote control wiring in the installation guide - which reminded me of amps of old which needed that.
I don't have a wiring diagram but in any case, I am just going to try the sub first to see how I get on.
If I am happy with it - I'll have wasted my cash on the other speakers.
I can add them later if I am still not happy (and then decide whether I can muster the energy!).
I don't have a wiring diagram but in any case, I am just going to try the sub first to see how I get on.
If I am happy with it - I'll have wasted my cash on the other speakers.
I can add them later if I am still not happy (and then decide whether I can muster the energy!).
OP
OP
I didn't have the necessary connectors to do the install so did a recy instead.
I've certainly learnt a bit about what I do and don't have!
Contrary to what I thought, the standard system without Karman Hardon is missing the subwoofer. Why couldn't I tell before? Because the sub is mounted reverse phase (i.e. pointing down) but I assumed the whole thing was housed in the parcel shelf.
This certainly explains the lack of bass although looking at the pictures of the sub it normally comes with - I'm not missing out on much IMO...
No HK? No speaker wires for the sub then!
So I will have to scotch-lock into the rear speaker channels instead.
I'm hoping the signal is full range although not the end of the world if not as the Pioneer has an adjustable crossover built in the remote (great idea that remote).
I worked out which part of the loom is for audio and managed to find the following wiring diagram which might be useful to others doing this!
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&..._9yOB9&sig=AHIEtbQM0MPOHrJIQZuVZTJXLUj3JHBRHw
There is an easy mount point for the power from the battery and a ground just behind the boot lid hinge arm.
I did read about MBs shutting off power in a crash to avoid sparks i.e. mount the power somewhere other than the battery - but it wants permanent 12v power so unless I run it from a cigarette lighter socket fuse socket with it switched to permanently-on. Not sure on that one yet.
I also discovered the Tracker fitted in my car which I never knew about!
How have they secured your unit presumably in your boot, sinewave?
I've certainly learnt a bit about what I do and don't have!
Contrary to what I thought, the standard system without Karman Hardon is missing the subwoofer. Why couldn't I tell before? Because the sub is mounted reverse phase (i.e. pointing down) but I assumed the whole thing was housed in the parcel shelf.
This certainly explains the lack of bass although looking at the pictures of the sub it normally comes with - I'm not missing out on much IMO...
No HK? No speaker wires for the sub then!
So I will have to scotch-lock into the rear speaker channels instead.
I'm hoping the signal is full range although not the end of the world if not as the Pioneer has an adjustable crossover built in the remote (great idea that remote).
I worked out which part of the loom is for audio and managed to find the following wiring diagram which might be useful to others doing this!
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&..._9yOB9&sig=AHIEtbQM0MPOHrJIQZuVZTJXLUj3JHBRHw
There is an easy mount point for the power from the battery and a ground just behind the boot lid hinge arm.
I did read about MBs shutting off power in a crash to avoid sparks i.e. mount the power somewhere other than the battery - but it wants permanent 12v power so unless I run it from a cigarette lighter socket fuse socket with it switched to permanently-on. Not sure on that one yet.
I also discovered the Tracker fitted in my car which I never knew about!
How have they secured your unit presumably in your boot, sinewave?
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sinewave
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Hi JohnE,
Mine is strapped to the boot floor with the supplied straps. Would have liked it secured to the back of the seats but it's too wide and fouls the MB lift up Dog Guard net.
Both subs switched live trigger are fed from the rear 12v socket in the boot area.
I've had mine apart today as I wanted to see how good a job Manchester Car Audio did of the install.
TBH I wasn't impressed!
It works fine but the routing of the wires, the amount of slack left, the splicing methods, the taping up and lack of crimps, the botching of the connection to the battery etc etc etc was all sub standard.
Re-did a lot of it this afternoon to my standards and am far happier now.
Great gear but I would not recommend anyone take their Car to the Manchester branch of Car Audio Centre.
Mine is strapped to the boot floor with the supplied straps. Would have liked it secured to the back of the seats but it's too wide and fouls the MB lift up Dog Guard net.
Both subs switched live trigger are fed from the rear 12v socket in the boot area.
I've had mine apart today as I wanted to see how good a job Manchester Car Audio did of the install.
TBH I wasn't impressed!
It works fine but the routing of the wires, the amount of slack left, the splicing methods, the taping up and lack of crimps, the botching of the connection to the battery etc etc etc was all sub standard.
Re-did a lot of it this afternoon to my standards and am far happier now.
Great gear but I would not recommend anyone take their Car to the Manchester branch of Car Audio Centre.
OP
OP
I did think about securing it to the back seats but have not tried it in there yet so not sure on the width. My rear seats don't move. However, it looks like it will fit near the back seats worse-case and hopefully can still open up to the spare wheel.
Hmm, a bit sloppy/lazy using just the 12v socket. Did you change where it was connected or just re-did the connection for the main power?
As much as cannot be bothered to do this and would rather burn my face off, that's one of the reasons why I push myself to do it.
The majority of the time is spent running cables, replacing speakers and mounting the equipment so even though it is not great, at least you could rectify the crappy bits (regardless of the fact you shouldn't have to).
Cheers,
John
Hmm, a bit sloppy/lazy using just the 12v socket. Did you change where it was connected or just re-did the connection for the main power?
As much as cannot be bothered to do this and would rather burn my face off, that's one of the reasons why I push myself to do it.
The majority of the time is spent running cables, replacing speakers and mounting the equipment so even though it is not great, at least you could rectify the crappy bits (regardless of the fact you shouldn't have to).
Cheers,
John
sinewave
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You mis-understand John.
The feed to both amps from the switched live input to the 12v power socket is just to 'ignite' the amps much like a relay on terminals T1 & T2.
The main power comes direct from the Batt via inline fuses.
There is nothing wrong in this it was just the twisted and taped connection that was amateur rather than using crimps.
TBH it seems the company is run by one organ grinder and a few kids working in the shop.
I was led to believe using a bigger City Center company was the way to go?
Clearly not!
The feed to both amps from the switched live input to the 12v power socket is just to 'ignite' the amps much like a relay on terminals T1 & T2.
The main power comes direct from the Batt via inline fuses.
There is nothing wrong in this it was just the twisted and taped connection that was amateur rather than using crimps.
TBH it seems the company is run by one organ grinder and a few kids working in the shop.
I was led to believe using a bigger City Center company was the way to go?
Clearly not!
OP
OP
Well, after the limited oomph from the Pioneer unit, I am going to try a free air sub mounted on the parcel shelf.
This ought to do it:
MTX Jackhammer T9922-44 22" 6000W Dual 4Ohm Subwoofer
This ought to do it:
MTX Jackhammer T9922-44 22" 6000W Dual 4Ohm Subwoofer
OP
OP
I can't imagine what that car with two of them sounds like.
Just the weight of them alone puts me off.
I decided on a more modest Pioneer free air sub with appropiately-spec'd JVC amp I think - for £130 so if I sell the Pioneer unit for that - I've lost nothing and I will leave it all in the car when I sell it.
ICE has really come down in price!
Just the weight of them alone puts me off.
I decided on a more modest Pioneer free air sub with appropiately-spec'd JVC amp I think - for £130 so if I sell the Pioneer unit for that - I've lost nothing and I will leave it all in the car when I sell it.
ICE has really come down in price!
SavMan
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This is the one I built for my son he has no problem with the sound getting through to the cabin, then again it is only a Clio and he can no longer fit anything in the boot.
View attachment 31579
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V12
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I have one 10" free air sub in my lwb s class. I have the gain on minimum and on some songs I still have way too much low end.
Big fan of infinite baffle!
Sent from my GT-I9300 using MBClub UK
Big fan of infinite baffle!
Sent from my GT-I9300 using MBClub UK
You must be the coolest dad in the world?! When I put a sound system in my first car my dad literally tried to rip it out!!!!!
