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Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by pmcgsmurf, Oct 26, 2017.
May help Pat
Hella - WEB CAT 2.5
Pulled the fog light out, can't see any cracks or anything so have dried it and will fit it back in morning.
Took the belt off the supercharger and checked the idler and tensioner pulley, quite a bit of play on both and a noticeable noise from the tensioner one.
New pulleys required me thinks, anyone?
Strangely not much noise from the actual supercharger pulley which was what i was going to change.
Hi Pat, if it is only the supercharger idler pulley noisy? dont buy the complete double pulley arrangement because you can fit a new bearing in the metal pulley for the supercharger, i have a new bearing that you can have for £10.00 including post,
I also have a very good Tensioner pulley here Mercedes 2004 W211 E55 Supercharger belt tensioner | eBay
Wish you had said, see my post 359, a new Nachi bearing arrived today, strangely though the pulley doesn't sound that bad now, I did check it soon after it had been idle for a long time so may just have needed run a bit.
Will check further but think I need to check the other pulleys too.
Sorry Pat, i am confusing the issue i meant the Supercharger Idler pulley, cheers Dave
Aha, I see, let me get them off for a check, the tensioner pulley has been changed to an aluminium one.
I'll have to check the shafts for play to see how they are.
Supercharger idler pulleys are the aftermarket ASP ones pat so bearings can be changed in them.
same with the tensioner pulley
tensioner itself has never been changed
supercharger bearing might have been noisy from lack of use
hope that helps
Yes, I think the charger bearing just needed a bit of use as it seems quite now.
Ddid you see the movement in the other pulleys in the video, look excessive?
Other pulleys looked fine , drive it for a bit and see for yourself pat , it has been a few years
Had a closer look into this today.
The tensioner (supercharger) pulley very noisy, similarly one of the idler pulleys too was noisy though not as bad as the tensioner.
Pulled the idler pulley off, stripped this and removed the bearings, new bearings required.
Bearings fitted are Nachi 6203ZE C3, new bearings to be fitted think we have some of these that we use on machines.
Tried to get the tensioner pulley off but was very tight, decided to take the tensioner off to get this into the vice, of course the pulley bolt would not budge, busted 2 x torx bits before it rounded, must have been tight or very strong loctite on it.
You can see the busted bolt middle right of the picture, looks like an M8 x 1.25 x 30mm T40.
Will need to see if I can find one, nothing after a quick look.
Tensioner bearing is a Nachi 6303ZE C3, will need to get one of these first.
Anyone got a bolt?
same thing happened when i removed the very same bolt the first time, killed x 3 torq bits and then rounded. sourced a bolt from the states! It didnt have any additional loctite, just what was from factory, no idea why they tighten up so much.
the ASP pulleys are made to replace bearings hence i had them put in , been a efw years so probably right timing
Hi Pat, If you get stuck ive got some new 6203/c3 bearings, and a very good condition Tensioner complete with standard pulley, if you want to convert back to standard pulleys i have the other tensioner too for the auxillary belt? think ive found a bolt that should do if you want it?
I seen the post when searching, can't seem to find a bolt yet so may need to plan b.
For the record plan b is mop the floors, have breakfast then go to the pub.
I've got 6203 bearings here, part number 6203ZZC3 by NSK, we use them in our placement machines and seem to be the same.
I'll have to order in the 6303 one for the tensioner if I need one though.
Could use that bolt if it's the same, drop me a pm with the cost please.
Can you get the bolt out of the tensioner you have?
An impact gun works wonders on these bolts. I have changed a number of my pulleys a few months ago.
I used the following NTN bearing to replace the OEM NTN one.
NTN Bearing 6000 - 6200 - 6300 Series - 2RS - ZZ - *Choose your size* | eBay
We tried for ages in the vice and in the end knew it wasn't going to happen.
Once we got the bold out and cleaned the thread it was noticeable that the thread was not in good condition so may have been why Alps and us had the same problem.
Have tapped it again and seems a lot better now, just waiting on the pulley from Dave to I can use the bolt from that one.
Can't believe I couldn't find a similar bolt somewhere though, just an M8 x 1.25 x about 30mm with a 10mm collar on it about 7mm down, will have a search again.
We use these people Pat,
Industrial Fixings in Southend - South Essex Fasteners Ltd
Maybe worth a call
I've order some new FAG bearings from one of our suppliers, I seen some reports that the Nachi ones seem to fail on the ASP pulleys.
The FAG ones are rated ever so slightly higher (RPM) than the Nachi ones and are direct replacements.
Don't think the bolt is that much of an issue and I may look at some alternatives to this.
Bolt length and head type are not that important, I can always shorten the bolt and use whatever type of wrench (American talk) on it.
There is a washer fitted between the bearing and the bolt head so that the bolt tightens up to the outside edge of the inner bearing.
The fitted bolt has a 10mm collar that goes into the 17mm inner of the bearing, so in reality the 10mm collar seems a waste of time?
Not sure I'm convinced about these bearings with just the metal shield on both sides.
Would explain why they end up getting noisy as water gets in and the grease gets out.
Might look at ones with proper seals tomorrow and have a chat with a couple of the chaps at work.
Wouldn't think the rpm would be a problem on either ones.
Conclusion is that the bearings "should" be sealed, after all the main bearing for the supercharger is of the sealed variety and this is protected by the clutch housing.
New sealed bearings are on the way.