Fixing M104 and M111 head gasket oil leaks..advice sought

[big x]

I know that changing the headgaskets is the best solution but is it possible to just tighten the bolts in the correct order by say 1/8 th of a turn ?
M104's tend to leak (to atmosphere only) on the rear right and the M111 at the front right in the timing chain area. The coolent is not normally affected.My thinking is that the use of stretch bolts may be part of the problem.Also over time the gaskets shrink with heat and age so maybe the bolts could be tightened or replaced with new ones without lifting the head.
As I live alone changing a gasket on a 6 cylinder would mean either having to hiring a crane or buying one on Ebay for £135 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRAND-NEW-SEALEY-SC10-1-TON-FOLDING-ENGINE-CRANE-HOIST_W0QQitemZ8066337406 and then lifting the head off with the inlet and outlet manifolds attached. Looks easy reading the WIS and Haynes but.....Anyone done it ?

adam

 

[Ian B Walker]

yep. but you need a friend to help you. Trust me when I say that removing the guide rail pins is not for the faint hearted, they usually strip out the thread and then its trusty hammer and mole grips jobbie. (hammer to break the guide rail only, nothing heavy or drastic). As for tightening the bolts. I would strongly advise against it as you will cause never ending problems. You will have leakes where you didnt before, it will over stress the bolts and in some cases lead to stripped threads within the block. Change the gasket, use NEW head bolts and you will be ok, you dont particularly need a crane, just a good strong friend.

 

[Dieselman]

Why do you need a helper?
I realise it's because the head and manifolds are heavy but either remove the manifolds or stand on the inner wings and use a sling around the manifolds and a piece of carpet over the radiator panel.
You will need to break the seal of the gasket before attempting to lift the head.
When I was young I once lifted a complete cast iron engine out of a Vauxhall on my own like this.

 

[Ian B Walker]

I posted my comment re helper not knowing the age of Adam, a more senior person may need one, like me (senior that is)

 

[big x]

Why do you need a helper?
I realise it's because the head and manifolds are heavy but either remove the manifolds or stand on the inner wings and use a sling around the manifolds and a piece of carpet over the radiator panel.
You will need to break the seal of the gasket before attempting to lift the head.
When I was young I once lifted a complete cast iron engine out of a Vauxhall on my own like this.

Don't worry I lift weights at the gym 3 times a week and run 2.4k in under 10 minutes however I am 45 so prefer the easy route these days!...a crane.Damage your back at this age and you'll live with it the rest of your life.
I used the exact method mentioned above standing on the suspension turrets some 10 years ago on a 6 cylinder BMW.
I asked my local MB independent Cornerstone garage for a quote on the E320 and the guy said just over a grand much to my surprise,that's more than I paid for the car.Most small garages down here in Somerset are charging £25-£35 PH.I've whipped the cam cover off and had a poke around...the wiring harness and ignition leads look fine.I'm positive the cars on the original gasket.The guy used to be an MB tech and told me he must of done hundreds of these when the cars where still under warranty.Interestingly the head tech at Taunton MB also said that he had never seen a M104 with oil in the coolent.If you can live with oil leaks the gaskets don't seem to totally fail.
The upper timing case cover on the other hand repeatly piss oil over the alternator due to poor design.At the back of the u-shaped seal only mastic keeps oil from weeping out.

adam

 

[big x]

yep. but you need a friend to help you. Trust me when I say that removing the guide rail pins is not for the faint hearted, they usually strip out the thread and then its trusty hammer and mole grips jobbie. (hammer to break the guide rail only, nothing heavy or drastic). As for tightening the bolts. I would strongly advise against it as you will cause never ending problems. You will have leakes where you didnt before, it will over stress the bolts and in some cases lead to stripped threads within the block. Change the gasket, use NEW head bolts and you will be ok, you dont particularly need a crane, just a good strong friend.

Both Haynes and MB WIS use a small slide hammer to get the pin out. I have one but would have to remove the radiator for enough access space.
I was thinking of passing a long bolt through a nut ,washer and deep socket and pulling the internally threaded pin by tightening the nut.Can't see how that would strip the pin thread unless some grease monkey reused the pin from a sealing the upper timing case cover job in previous years.

adam

 

[shandy]

Have done what you describe using bolt,nut,washer and socket, it worked well ; but make sure you clean the internal threads before starting and use a well fitting bolt screwed right to the root of the threads and tightened down.
Use plenty lubricant, work slowly and smoothly and it should back the pin out, if it's stuck it should strip the thread on the nut first.
Good luck, Geo.

 

[kth286]

big x

Are you aware there was a MB technical service bulletin for this engine reducing the max oil capacity by half litre.

The suggested max oil level is no more than half way between min and max marks on dipstick,

It cured the oil weep on my engine.

Regards

 

[PJH]

In case you didn't know, the bolts are stretch bolts.

 

[big x]

In case you didn't know, the bolts are stretch bolts.

Er...that's what I said in my post.

adam

 

[big x]

Cleaning up the block I notice it only leaks when cold. When it warms up and expands it's fine.Reminds of British bikes really

adam

 

[PJH]

Er...that's what I said in my post.

adam

Booked an eye-test.

 

[big x]

Drool...these pics from Del of his 90k 320CE show what these engines can look like...
How does he keep it so clean,there are no signs of age !