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Help - SBC brake warning light coming on all the time.

goalc

New Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2004
Messages
15
My dad has a 2004 E200K and the SBC warning light keeps coming on in the dashboard every time you get in the car (before the ignition is even switched on). He has taken it to the dealers twice and they just say that it is normal, even though it has only just started doing it ! According to the owners manual on page 355 this is not normal !

Does anyone know what may be causing this, and how it can be fixed? The battery is Ok, so we dont think its that.

It sounds to me like the dealer is just trying to fob him off...... :mad:

Any advice anyone can give will be appreciated.

Thanks
 
If the battery\batteries on your fathers car are fully charged then the dealer is talkinh cobblers!

Having said that I would still not be happy with the reply, the warning lights are just that.... A warning and it is not normal for them to come on. It is normal though if the batteries are insufficantly charged.

Does the car get a decent run that is long enough to charge the battery? Journies need to be at the very least 10 - 15 minutes in length (maybe even longer)

Good luck getting the right advice,
John
 
Normal is when the SBC light comes on for a few seconds (along with all the other warning lights) when you turn the ignition on. If it comes on at any other time it is not normal.

The system powers up as soon as you unlock the car so if the warning light comes on then it is telling you that there is a fault.

Insist the dealer plugs the car into Star and reads what the car thinks is the problem.
 
After all the recalls, safety checks etc on the SBC system that is nothing short of utter stupidity.

Suggest you write to DCUK. And find another dealer.
 
which dealer is it?
 
Though the battery may appear good, you do need to mease it before you start to avoid the starting blip leaving the lamp on.

Battery should be 12- 12.5 before you start the car, the last re call has not helped this situation
 
Though the battery may appear good, you do need to mease it before you start to avoid the starting blip leaving the lamp on.

Battery should be 12- 12.5 before you start the car, the last re call has not helped this situation

"mease": Is this shorthand for measure, it's not a word I've heard before.
 
:) I think it very frustrating that if the battery does not have a decent charge we get really frightening, intimidating messages. I would much prefer a more factual alert and no doubt Television did mean 'measure', I'm terrible at bad spelling and leaving out parts of words.

The sun is shining, the birds are singing and so far it's a beautiful day. :cool: :bannana:

Regards
John
 
:) I think it very frustrating that if the battery does not have a decent charge we get really frightening, intimidating messages. I would much prefer a more factual alert and no doubt Television did mean 'measure', I'm terrible at bad spelling and leaving out parts of words.

The sun is shining, the birds are singing and so far it's a beautiful day. :cool: :bannana:

Regards
John

This problem with low batteries is getting more and more an issue, it is not so much the charge , it is the fact that we have many batteries now going partial short circuit on one cell, this lowers the standing voltage to under 11.75 volt.
Under this condition the running voltage is pulled down by the battery, this also reduces the charge rate, as can be seen by Ohms law.

This year the amount of post that I have answered has increased with cars stuck in first gear to ABS/ESP on, have mainly been bad batteries, people assume that if the starter motor works, then the battery is ok

Before anything comes into me in the electronic line for repair, it is pointless checking anything without knowing that all of the voltages are correct. Any faults with low voltage can be within the power supply itself or a circuit that is pulling too much current.
An easy way to check wiring or a fuse holder is to run a light bulb from the said circuit, making sure that the lamp used is the same wattage as the component under test.

Though all of the things we have run from the car alternator, the initial start up is done via the battery.
Always start with basics, as basics are still the number one reason for most car faults, that is batteries and poor grounds.

I have not used my SL for two weeks, but took it out Friday, within the first mile, ABC fault, SBC fault, just drive for a mile or two, tuurn off, re start and all is well, Two weeks is the near max that a SL will stand without problems due to the battery drain when parked up
 
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Though all of the things we have run from the car alternator, the initial start up is done via the battery.
Always start with basics, as basics are still the number one reason for most car faults, that is batteries and poor grounds
Plus the 211 is\was prone to electrical seepage\leakage. There have been a few service bulletins on this issue which those that insist on only using independent servicing will miss out on.

John
 
This problem with low batteries is getting more and more an issue, it is not so much the charge , it is the fact that we have many batteries now going partial short circuit on one cell, this lowers the standing voltage to under 11.75 volt.
Under this condition the running voltage is pulled down by the battery, this also reduces the charge rate, as can be seen by Ohms law.

This year the amount of post that I have answered has increased with cars stuck in first gear to ABS/ESP on, have mainly been bad batteries, people assume that if the starter motor works, then the battery is ok

Before anything comes into me in the electronic line for repair, it is pointless checking anything without knowing that all of the voltages are correct. Any faults with low voltage can be within the power supply itself or a circuit that is pulling too much current.
An easy way to check wiring or a fuse holder is to run a light bulb from the said circuit, making sure that the lamp used is the same wattage as the component under test.

Though all of the things we have run from the car alternator, the initial start up is done via the battery.
Always start with basics, as basics are still the number one reason for most car faults, that is batteries and poor grounds.

I have not used my SL for two weeks, but took it out Friday, within the first mile, ABC fault, SBC fault, just drive for a mile or two, tuurn off, re start and all is well, Two weeks is the near max that a SL will stand without problems due to the battery drain when parked up


This post is without the benefit of getting the car's manual out but I think that on the W211 if the battery voltage is low then SBC does not power up before engine start.

My car has Airmatic in addition. After leaving it for nearly four weeks at Heathrow last year, on return nothing moved (in Airmatic or SBC) when I unlocked the car. On starting, I got the all convenience systems shut down measage and an "Airmatic in Comfort Mode only" warning. Everything self reset after a few moments.

I mention this because I don't think the thread starter would be seeing the SBC warning light before turning on the ignition it the car had a low battery.
 
when I unlocked the car. On starting, I got the all convenience systems shut down measage and an "Airmatic in Comfort Mode only" warning. Everything self reset after a few moments.
That is surely just the first stage in a drop of voltage?? The computer is just making sure there is enough power to operate the necessary systems.

Regards
John
 
That is surely just the first stage in a drop of voltage?? The computer is just making sure there is enough power to operate the necessary systems.

Regards
John

I agree, the auxiliaries are shut down as the voltage in the secondary battery falls. I didn't bring it up because I thought it was a problem but in support of my argument that I am not convinced low battery voltage is relevant to the thread poster's question. Of course I could be wrong, it wouldn't be the first time.;)

As a Chartered Engineer, I'm qualified to speak for at least five minutes on a subject I know absolutely nothing about. :D
 
The battery voltage is the most important test to do, why dive headlong in when batteries fix 95% of these silly faults, a £5 meter will do the job. the batteries these days seam to last about 4 year on our heavily loaded cars.
 
I agree, the auxiliaries are shut down as the voltage in the secondary battery falls. I didn't bring it up because I thought it was a problem but in support of my argument that I am not convinced low battery voltage is relevant to the thread poster's question. Of course I could be wrong, it wouldn't be the first time.;)

As a Chartered Engineer, I'm qualified to speak for at least five minutes on a subject I know absolutely nothing about. :D
I'm sure I'm with you on this and I'm amazed at the service department atitude. It is wrong to pick on an individual dealership without being fully aware OF ALL THE FACTS (not shouting but emphasising :)) I thought that it was policy (not individual practice) that whenever a 211 goes in for servicing, or repairs\warranty work, the vehicle has a quality control check? If something as contraversial as the SBC light is contunually coming on, then that is problem that Mercedes-Benz need like a hole in the head. To let the vehicle leave the workshops with the explanation given is unsatisfactory :)

Regards
John
 
IMHO we're drifting a little off course here. The OP's dad has taken his W211 to the dealer with a potential fault with a safety critical system. The dealer appears to be fobbing him off with a "They all do that sir" mindless response.

If the dealer were to plug the car into Star then he would be able to say whether the problem is down to poor battery voltage or an SBC fault. The manual says if the warning light comes on take the car to a MB dealer. The owner is entitled to receive proper attention, not the brush off.
 
I'm sure I'm with you on this and I'm amazed at the service department atitude. It is wrong to pick on an individual dealership without being fully aware OF ALL THE FACTS (not shouting but emphasising :)) I thought that it was policy (not individual practice) that whenever a 211 goes in for servicing, or repairs\warranty work, the vehicle has a quality control check? If something as contraversial as the SBC light is contunually coming on, then that is problem that Mercedes-Benz need like a hole in the head. To let the vehicle leave the workshops with the explanation given is unsatisfactory :)

Regards
John

Sorry John. I was writing at the same time as you. I think we're both saying the same thing. :D
 
If I had done this when all of the lights on " Visit workshop" I would have been bankrupt by now had I done that.

I do feel that there is something wrong with the last re call, and I am taking it up with MB
 
If I had done this when all of the lights on " Visit workshop" I would have been bankrupt by now had I done that.

I do feel that there is something wrong with the last re call, and I am taking it up with MB
I'm impressed with the quality control checks and they do have a Mercedes-Benz coding. There is no way anyone would expect an independant workshop to carry out free upgrades quality checks etc.

When we had the flat battery problem the first thing that was done was fit a new battery, then the drainage was checked, but just like you have already said the battery was replaced as a matter of course. :)

Regards
John
 

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