Job One.
Power from the fuse box.
First of all you need to remove the screws that retain the trim under the lower dash on the drivers side. This is attached by means of screws along the left side, in the centre towards the back of the steering column, on the right behind the bonnet release (which you need to pull now!!), and behind the parking brake handle.
Remove all the screws and gentle unclip the lower dash trim and then lower it down. (I didn’t totally remove it)
Then go to the bonnet. Open the bonnet to its vertical position using the clips at the back of the bonnet.
Once the bonnet is up and the ignition is off, move to the fuse box.
Unclip the fuse box lid and note the position of the screws that retain the back part that covers the relays and the front part that retains the fuse box. Remove all the retaining screws carefully noting where the short one goes. (DO NOT DROP THEM INTO THE ABYSS)
Remove the top section of the fuse box and put somewhere safe with the screws.
Then lift the fuse end of the box by unclipping the retaining clips at the side.
Gently lift the fuse rail up a few inches and turn it over so that you can see where the spade connector will fit.
Go back inside the car and attach the spade of the fuse cable to a stick. This will enable you to aim the fuse cable to the day light now visible under your dashboard in the top right corner (under the fuse box).
Leave the stick with cable attached under the dash while you go back to the fuse box to see if you can find the cable and stick under the relay box at the back of the fuse box.
Having retrieved the fuse cable and find Fuse space five. From the underneath each fuse space has three slots. One is towards the front of the car, one to the back and one in the middle. The front one is the live rail and the back one is where the spade connector should go so that the two are bridged by the fuse when added from the other side.
HOWEVER, on my car only the live rail had any copper connections in it that therefore you couldn’t get any current from the back slot. I connected the spade connector to the live rail slot for ease of working. I then needed to fit an inline 20 amp fuse to protect the circuit. If you don’t have connectors in the back of each slot then you must fuse it in line or else the circuit can draw up to 40Amp which will melt your loom and cause a fire risk, albeit a small risk as the folding mirror is only ever switched for a few seconds at a time.
Having connected your spade connector firmly into place (with or without the main board fuse) you can then reassemble the fuse box by going through the stages outlined in reverse.
You now have power!!