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Mercedes W114 250 Coupe - help!

Original wiring is copper core, my replacement leads are these suppressor ones as the EDIS needs higher resistance and there are more electronics around. I have not used suppressor plug connectors.
 
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First hitch. I have to download a driver to enable the USB connection to the ECU to be recognised. Not having fun.
 
Remind us of which version of the Megasquirt board you are using Charles and the operating system of the laptop computer.
are you using a Serial to USB adapter THIS ONE MADE BY PROLIFIC seems to be good.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00425S1H8/?tag=amazon0e9db-21
Apparently there are many adapters out there using cloned hardware- these can have problems with drivers working.
 
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http://prolificusa.com/files/ds_pl2303HXD_v1.4.3.pdf

Most decent adapters will come with a small disc complete with driver for the product. Its important how this is set up. If you plug the device in most operating systems will try to install it automatically using generic driver/s that are part of the operating system. These may or may not work properly! The problem may then be that the presence of these installed driver/s may mean the proper supplied driver/s may not install! You may have to remove the wrong generic driver/s before installing the one that does work! Usually you can do this via the control panel/ add remove hardware settings
 
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I'm using MS2 with mini USB to USB on my Windows 7 laptop. Phil at Extra EFi has sent me a download link, with 21 pages of instructions. This sort of thing scrambles my brains I must admit!
 
Hooray! Driver installed and communication established. Photo to follow.
 
I'm using MS2 with mini USB to USB on my Windows 7 laptop. Phil at Extra EFi has sent me a download link, with 21 pages of instructions. This sort of thing scrambles my brains I must admit!

Your whole thread scrambles my brain...hats off to you.
 
Been in for 45 minutes and photobucket is just not allowing me to upload so click through photos instead.

MS dashboard on the computer - the photo is lousy but you can't access this without a device attached. So the ECU is working! John was doing a lot of electrical stuff today (we changed the fusebox as I had the wrong one, so a lot of faults flowed from that) so I was only on for his lunch break, but next step, sensor data entry.

Horns now fitted - lovely things but just absurdly big so another bracket had to be fabricated.

Indicators now working but when clicked onto the offside the stalk doesn't hold there. Obviously that was a batch intended for BMW, but I believe it's a common problem.
 

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Finally, the electric fan arrived and I helped start fabricating the bracket for it.

I'm up to Norfolk tomorrow for a parts and info gathering exercise with the ever helpful and hospitable Colin.
 

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The perspective of that photo does exaggerate the size a bit - they are about 30% larger than the normal horns, and are mounted so they don't impinge at all on the sucky fan behind. There is no real alternative alas to mounting them there.
 
Could be mounted externally like spots on the front bumper?
This is MB's original option "two-tone horn". For city (primary)/highway (additional horns on the bumper) driving.
 
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Spots spots are spoken for...

I'm not worried. Other W114 owners have these without issue, the cooling on the car is such that even desert heat is not an issue - remember my re-core is to a higher specification than original. Worst comes to the worst there is space for another suction fan on the rear of the rad.
 
I continue to be very impressed with this whole thread - great stuff!
 
Step backwards on Friday. John tested the fuel pressure so we could adjust the regulator if necessary but the sound and smell of fuel escaping was obvious, and it was clearly coming from all injectors in the rail. Upon checking today with the injector housing I gave the machine shop as a template, the injector holes in the rail are bigger than they should be and large by enough to allow fuel through, . This is a bore, the rail has been sent back to them, and while it's off we'll be doing some better brackets.

Otherwise, progress all round and the danger of using replacement parts with different wiring.

Spot the difference in the instrument panel.

w114clock_zpsjw0yidwq.jpg


w114clock2_zpszpijltls.jpg


V belt to steering pump in

w114steering%20pump_zps5nwkouih.jpg


Parking lights work, but not brake lights. Checking the new fitting, it is clearly wired differently to original and needs extra wires that mine doesn't possess, so I'll dig out the original light fitting and see if that works.

w114parkinglight_zpssnv1rmax.jpg


Interior light now shines bright as do number plate lights.

w114interiorlight_zpsac2oju58.jpg
 
Spot the difference.

Clock is different but I'm sure that is not it as in the grand scheme of this, it is nowt.
 
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Looking from rear of car the right hand lights are piggybacked off the lefthand rear cluster as is the numberplate light- it occurs to me that this might be reversed for RHD drive cars?? brake light power should be black with red tracer earth will be brown. Lighting then goes back to a 9 way plug brake power still black/red tracer back to brake light switch [ defective?] then black /red / purple back to fuse fuse 6?

see that wiring diagram I posted?
 
Almost - the clock is working.

This in W114 terms is like hitting the motherlode.
 

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