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Mercedes W114 250 Coupe - help!

Possibly because I merely waved a rubber hammer in its general direction to keep the hub on its toes.

Scared it into submission.

Today I undid the hex bolt etc.

TeeHee.

The hex bolts holding on the hub to the disc are going to be an utter b to get off. My Allen key doesn't reach in far enough to get an adequate grip and the socket Allen key fouls the centre of the hub.

If the bearings do require replacing think about (price) hubs complete with bearings installed or at least not requiring removal of existing races ( a pain to do). Obviates removal of old discs.
 
Just looked at the offending bolts on the KB video. Drench them with you know what and go straight to the air driven wrench when recommissioned. There's a chance they will oblige.
For a suitable key - if none available to buy, consider cutting down an Allen key to no more than a length of hex bar and driving it with a suitably sized socket.
 
I remembered Tony lent me a long hinged socket bar and a thinner set of sockets with Allen keys. This made quick work of the beasts, after a days soaking anyway.

However, the discs sent by Euro do not fit as all the holes fail to line up. PITA.
 
There appear to be two types of caliper fitted to these early coupes TEVES or BENDIX.
There are also 2 types of disc - similar but different

A1154211112 up to chassis 021007085/ 022017599


413112.bmp.jpg



and


A1154211312 ABOVE THAT

413113.bmp.jpg




ps these are ATE numbers
 
Calipers are Teves (ATE), the front discs are the first type.

The prey with the mighty weapon at the front - it is an exceptionally useful tool to get torque onto something, as is the Allen key socket.

w114frontdischub_zpsjvbecjjn.jpg
 
Took the rear plate off which was in good nick but missing one bolt of four. Behind it the front suspension in all its glory, with Tony's work totally visible - all bushes replaced, new front ARB link(?) and all very neat and tidy.

I also sanded down and resprayed the passenger seat base with Hycote Satin black, which has transformed it - better to get this all done now than after new leather fitted, to which end I am delaying my trip to Germany a week to get everything I need done in advance and order any remaining parts that I can pick up (just saves a wee bit of postage but while I'm there).
 
Charles, I owe you a favour so I will translate this for you on Tuesday when I have some free time. Is that ok or do you need it earlier?

Famous last words they turned out to be :doh:

I have let Charles know I am about halfway through the translation; from what I have done so far there is a considerable amount of *******isation ahead.

Given my lack of technical knowledge I may post it up on OneDrive with a request for help with a better interpretation of some of the terminology - This needs to be correct for Charles so I want to be certain I have the terms absolutely spot on. I hope you will all bear with me.

Matt
 
German mechanical and technical vocabulary is a minefield, so thanks for your continued persistence Matt. I'm hoping that the document will confirm the crowd sourced spec issues we drew up with a bit more fleisch.
 
Given my lack of technical knowledge I may post it up on OneDrive with a request for help with a better interpretation of some of the terminology t

Post the words you are having difficulty with and I'll have a go. (I'm reasonably good on German technicals having waded through smart's documentation in German in an effort to understand the operating principles of their SMG).
 
Not a lot to report, my Alpina had its replacement radiator fitted, so the run in to Slough to pick up the ultrasonic cleaner was a joy as far as any Slough trip can be. Having had all the rear suspension overhauled, the correct tyres fitted, the suspension restored to factory geometry and now, without any overheating, the car is flat out brilliant.

Restored the other seat base today, except the black plastic handle to move the seat fore and aft fell to pieces, so another thing to find, experimented with the ultrasonic cleaner which with the right solvents really does shift the dirt without having to use the rotary cleaner and faff. Repainted the front disc brake rear thing and discovered I'd paid Niemoller twice for the same stuff, which is most unlike me (they pointed it out - I love dealing with German firms), and started listing the remaining parts required.
 
Just started cleaning up around the fuel tank (sound as a bell) then Mrs Hermes* arrived with my electroplating kit so I know what I'll be doing today.

*Mrs Hermes drives a brand new Touran. I think this is because she delivers when people are in, thus minimising cost and maximising revenue. Business isn't rocket science.
 
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Anybody got a good recommendation for silver exhaust paint? The exhaust pipe is sound as is rear box (I'm too fat to get to the centre box), but needs a good clean and re-paint (even with the V8 option, I'd like to preserve all the original bits if I can).

The plating kit is full of a range of lethal chemicals so my original plan of pouring it all into a bucket and plugging it into the mains might in Health and Safety circles possibly be considered a trifle rash.
 
There are no known occasions that I have wished I was colour blind. Until now.
 
Also, which grease should I be using for re-packing the bearings?
 
KB favours MB's own " high temperature antifriction bearing grease" which I assume is a LMX lithium complex bearing grease NLGI CLASS 2 This might be met by MB 265.1 A0029890051 or any other grease mentioned here.
MB 265.1 - High temperature antifriction bearing grease (NLGI grade 2, Specification 265.1) - Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids

Your Comma multi purpose is unlikely to meet the exact temp spec------- you need to seek out a specific high temperature/load wheel bearing grease for best results.
 
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Bear with me. I've written a shed load on the topic as a thread for this forum section but the forum is denying me access.
 
I believe the only new threads allowed in the Projects forum are those the mods approve - whereas posts in existing threads are not an issue. Ignore me if I have the wrong end of the stick.
 

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