W211 2007 E320 CDI Jerky / Power Loss Problems

[whitenemesis]

reported

 

[Mike_045]

Had same problem as many on here. Ran a couple of doses of Forte Turbo Cleaner through fuel and injected Revive into LH junction at turbo inlet. My problem improved and could drive 25M+ before the problem re-appeared....turbo only sticks when engine up to temperature and will not clear until engine cold. Ran from cold this morning while revving engine and observing turbo actuator linkage...all working fine. On return journey home went into limp. When back home opened bonnet and observed to see no movement from the linkage when increasing engine rpm. Stop engine, disconnected actuator linkage to discover turbo vanes are free so must be the actuator. Removed actuator,, dismantled on the bench for inspection. Broken link wires between pcb and motor terminals. Replaced wire links,,,re-fitted and problem solved. Bit of a tricky job but anyone who is good with soldering techniques should be able to manage this repair.... Took me approx 2 hrs. I have seen other information on one of the MB forums about this fix so cannot take any credit. I am not a car mechanic,,,,but I am an elecronics tech with over 30 years experience in the field.

 

[Mike_045]

I think in most cases you need to determine if the vanes ar sticking or the actuator is faulty. If the turbo is ok from cold and fails when up to temperature, disconnect the linkage at the actuator to check ifthe vanes are free. There is a known problem with actuators which may be repairable. There are previous posts about this so I cannot take credit for this.

 

[Alanovich]

This will be very likely a turbo issue.

Seen it a few times and is quite common.

Hi there,

I'm having a similar issue with my E320 CDI, a 2005 I6 3222cc variety.

My hiccupping is really only noticeable when the car's cold, or at lowish (sub 35), constant speed. The rev counter fluctuates a bit, I feel a slight hesitation. And when I do a long run I sometimes get a limp mode after stopping for a bit (leak and a coffee for example) and restarting whilst the engine is hot. Then, another stop and switch off/on and it clears. No engine management lights or the like.

A local Merc indie is blaming the torque converter and the turbo (a code on STAR only gave an error on the turbo sensor, they said it was an integral part to the turbo and would necessitate whole turbo replacement), I had them do a transmission oil flush and change, they said the old oil wasn't nasty at all. So maybe, just maybe, the TC is OK and all will be solved with work on/replacement of the turbo. If I can sort it with just the actuator I'll be a very, very happy idiot.

Any thoughts or advice please?

 

[Tuercas viejas]

Some additional info companeros !
If you have a half decent scanner that will read the basic pressure sensors turn on KOEO and read the following. .
Air intake pressure sensor IAP
Boost pressure sensor BPS
Ambient air pressure sensor AAP
Ambient air tempo sensor AAT
Exhaust back pressure sensor .EBP

With the engine at rest in KOEO the atmosphere will fill every nook and cranny in the engine and the exhaust.

Since at seal level you should be able to read the air pressure at 1100Hpa
This must be seen on all the sensors as this is the base line from which the ECU sets the fueling and power map. Obviously the ambient air pressure sensor is in the ECU on all Benz's but the ambient air temp is used to set the air density so important on modern diesel engine control.
The allowable tolerance or drift is 25 HPa between sensors any more than that and you will get P2623 off set drift at idle with loss of power and turbo contretemps.
In many cases a plugged up EGR cooler will also throw similar codes so be mindful of that condition.
Tuercas Viejas

 

[Tuercas viejas]

Hi there,

I'm having a similar issue with my E320 CDI, a 2005 I6 3222cc variety.

My hiccupping is really only noticeable when the car's cold, or at lowish (sub 35), constant speed. The rev counter fluctuates a bit, I feel a slight hesitation. And when I do a long run I sometimes get a limp mode after stopping for a bit (leak and a coffee for example) and restarting whilst the engine is hot. Then, another stop and switch off/on and it clears. No engine management lights or the like.

A local Merc indie is blaming the torque converter and the turbo (a code on STAR only gave an error on the turbo sensor, they said it was an integral part to the turbo and would necessitate whole turbo replacement), I had them do a transmission oil flush and change, they said the old oil wasn't nasty at all. So maybe, just maybe, the TC is OK and all will be solved with work on/replacement of the turbo. If I can sort it with just the actuator I'll be a very, very happy idiot.

Any thoughts or advice please?

Apart from what I wrote below .
The NAG 1 transmission can easily be plotted to see the operation and current ramping of the lock up clutch. This will determine the condition of the transmission torque converter and solenoids .
When I get a stumble or turbo lag my first thoughts are to check the injector wave form and pressure responses on the throttle when when the fault occurs in live data.
Don't overlook the EGR valve which might be acting lazy like and staying open for an extended period due to cooler plugging!
If your car is equipped with a DPF what is the differential pressure readings?
Of course you might have a mild turbo boost leak which makes the turbo boost module react with non response code.
Things to consider
Tuercas Viejas

 

[gridster1]

Hi

i have these symptoms that have been mentioned. Jerky on fast acceleration, feel like its in limp mode, how ever it not all the time that it goes into limp mode when jerking. sometimes when i brake and the car seems to lose turbo. another weird thing is that when its in limp mode(lack of turbo) there is never an engine light on and also when i try to reverse it just revs and doesnt move at all, so is i the turbo or the gearbox ?

 

[Chrisso]

Hi,

I could really use some advise with my car please...

I purchased an E320 CDI 2007 V6 facelift model just over a year ago with full MBSH & 42500 on the clock. Car needed a service 'E' at the time and was a couple of weeks overdue so I only drove the car very gently for 300 miles or so and booked it in with my local Mercedes dealership.

Part of the work involved was an ATF change and they also replaced a leaking oil o-ring seal on one of the turbo pipes.

A couple of weeks from having had the car serviced I started experiencing very jerky revs when in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear. This would only happen when I accelerated quite hard or when using the kickdown function on the accelerator. This would happen very intermittently, with the engine & gearbox fully warmed up or from cold, and in both C & S modes on the gearbox.

I would on occasion also experience a loss of power from the car, and it would go into limp home mode until I pulled over and switched it off and back on again - something which cured the jerkiness 99% until the next day / week / etc.

As it was very intermittent I didn't do anything about it, and it was happening so rarely that I just left it until the next scheduled annual service (a 'C' service this time). I took the car back to the dealership & asked them to investigate the problem.

They reported the following fault codes:
2510-001 - Check component Y77/1 (Boost pressure regulator). Positioner signals fault. (STORED)

2616-002 - Check component B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor). Control variation - Exhaust backpressure is too high. (STORED)
2644-011 - Check component B2/6 (Left hot film mass air flow sensor). Value is above limit. (Current and stored)


They recommended replacing the MAF & O2 sensors, as well as a clean of the air line. I authorised the work even though this was, to me at least, a massive cost of £754.


Just 2 days after collecting the car the problems re-appeared, I took the car back and they replaced the air filter, boost pressure sensor & reset the adaptations (all FOC) and were convinced this would now solve the problem. Interesting to note here is that they told me they found no more error codes on the car before carrying out this work.


The car had the same problems again a day after I collected it so I took it to an indie who scanned the car and found the same three error codes listed above.


I have now taken the car back to Mercedes who have had it for yet another week and have just received a phone call telling me that my turbo unit needs replacing to cure the loss of power problem (due to error code 2510-001) but they do not know what is causing the car to be jerky...they suspect it might be the exhaust manifolds but would like to replace the turbo unit first.


I have searched these forums (and others) and can see that there have been a few W211 series owners who have had similar problems.


Can anyone help me with these codes because I do not have £1800 to spend on replacing the turbo, nor a further £1200 to replace the manifolds, especially when Mercedes cannot tell me that doing either will definitely fix the problem.


Posts I have found with owners having similar problems are here:
01; 02; 03; 04; 05

My W211 om642 does this sometimes, feel like you're

 

[Chrisso]

Hi,

I could really use some advise with my car please...

I purchased an E320 CDI 2007 V6 facelift model just over a year ago with full MBSH & 42500 on the clock. Car needed a service 'E' at the time and was a couple of weeks overdue so I only drove the car very gently for 300 miles or so and booked it in with my local Mercedes dealership.

Part of the work involved was an ATF change and they also replaced a leaking oil o-ring seal on one of the turbo pipes.

A couple of weeks from having had the car serviced I started experiencing very jerky revs when in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear. This would only happen when I accelerated quite hard or when using the kickdown function on the accelerator. This would happen very intermittently, with the engine & gearbox fully warmed up or from cold, and in both C & S modes on the gearbox.

I would on occasion also experience a loss of power from the car, and it would go into limp home mode until I pulled over and switched it off and back on again - something which cured the jerkiness 99% until the next day / week / etc.

As it was very intermittent I didn't do anything about it, and it was happening so rarely that I just left it until the next scheduled annual service (a 'C' service this time). I took the car back to the dealership & asked them to investigate the problem.

They reported the following fault codes:
2510-001 - Check component Y77/1 (Boost pressure regulator). Positioner signals fault. (STORED)

2616-002 - Check component B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor). Control variation - Exhaust backpressure is too high. (STORED)
2644-011 - Check component B2/6 (Left hot film mass air flow sensor). Value is above limit. (Current and stored)


They recommended replacing the MAF & O2 sensors, as well as a clean of the air line. I authorised the work even though this was, to me at least, a massive cost of £754.


Just 2 days after collecting the car the problems re-appeared, I took the car back and they replaced the air filter, boost pressure sensor & reset the adaptations (all FOC) and were convinced this would now solve the problem. Interesting to note here is that they told me they found no more error codes on the car before carrying out this work.


The car had the same problems again a day after I collected it so I took it to an indie who scanned the car and found the same three error codes listed above.


I have now taken the car back to Mercedes who have had it for yet another week and have just received a phone call telling me that my turbo unit needs replacing to cure the loss of power problem (due to error code 2510-001) but they do not know what is causing the car to be jerky...they suspect it might be the exhaust manifolds but would like to replace the turbo unit first.


I have searched these forums (and others) and can see that there have been a few W211 series owners who have had similar problems.


Can anyone help me with these codes because I do not have £1800 to spend on replacing the turbo, nor a further £1200 to replace the manifolds, especially when Mercedes cannot tell me that doing either will definitely fix the problem.


Posts I have found with owners having similar problems are here:
01; 02; 03; 04; 05

Sorry hit the wrong button. My om642 does the same. Shame Mercedes make such a nice car but don't really know whats going on.

 

[W1ghty]

My W211 om642 does this sometimes, feel like you're

It’s an old thread buddy , Lord A was last seen 2018

 

[W1ghty]

Sorry hit the wrong button. My om642 does the same. Shame Mercedes make such a nice car but don't really know whats going on.

Go and see Alex at AMF Mercedes , Tonbridge , Kent . He’s an MB specialist

 

[Chrisso]

Go and see Alex at AMF Mercedes , Tonbridge , Kent . He’s an MB specialist

Didn't notice. Not hovering to jump on comments, got more to do.

 

[W1ghty]

Didn't notice. Not hovering to jump on comments, got more to do.

I thought you had a car problem ?