Wheel Bearings & Camber Adjustment W202

[wigs_1]

A couple of questions:

W202 Front Wheel Camber Adjustment
When I have the 18's fitted (briefly) the RHS front just rubs the wheel-arch. Some crude measurements using straight edges up to the wheel arch shows that the RHS wheel sits 6mm further out than the LHS. This equates (roughly) to about 1.15 degrees. Car runs straight and true though.

As for adjusting, the Haynes says "rotate the pivot bolts until both camber and castor angles are correctly set" (referring to the lower arm pivot bolts)
Looking through the forum I get the impression that I need new bolts (with spacers?) to change the angles.
No doubt I'll have to go to MB or a good indie if I want it done properly but it'd be good to know whats required before I go.
Any words of wisdom? Some pictures would be good too.

Wheel Bearings
My second problem is when I drive forward on full lock (more so when the car is cold) the front wheels make funny noises and feel like they are skipping/jumping etc.
I recon its the wheel bearings which seems logical however they don't make any noise in a straight line and don't appear to be getting hot.

All comments much appreciated.
Cheers, Chris

 

[wemorgan]

Wheel Bearings
My second problem is when I drive forward on full lock (more so when the car is cold) the front wheels make funny noises and feel like they are skipping/jumping etc.
I recon its the wheel bearings which seems logical however they don't make any noise in a straight line and don't appear to be getting hot.

I had a similar symptom in my W208. The fault was with worn bushes in the drag arm (part 5)

HTH

 

[Adam230K]

I've got the same size alloys as you but for some reason my car is crap in a straight line if met by bad road, still cant figure out how to fix it.

 

[wheels-inmotion]

On the 98 is probable you have pre-installed "D" cam adjuster bolts, certainly after 2000 they need to be installed.

Regarding the "skipping feel".... The Merc has an extremely long castor position and a low camber position, on a full lock the castor allows the tyre to roll-over on the inner wheel. As you stated you have a Geometry issue so it's reasonable to assume this "roll-over" is exaggerated.

 

[grober]

Forgive this comment but you don't have 2 different wings do you? ( one being a replacement) one with a rolled arch lip one without? Is your skipping jumping on full lock the tyres fouling on the inner arch- any signs of rubbing?? What's the wheel offset and width of the 18" wheels?
The ET on the front on normal size wheels is 37 I believe

 

[wigs_1]

Cheers for the replies people.

Front wheels are ET31 as per the link
http://www.alloywheelsdirect.net/me..._class_saloon_w202_alloys/18_amg_ii_wheel_193

If I measure from the inside of the 18" wheel (where it faces up to the hub) outwards to the outer side of the tyre it measures ~85mm. The standard 16" alloys measure about 75mm so it does sit 10mm wider.

As far as the arches go I don't think one has been rolled as the car has always sat on 16"s so there'd be no need.

Also, here is another pic of the car from the back with the 18". You should be able to see the +ve camber on the RHS front. Compare it to the rear and they are quite different.



Car is one of the very first facelifts, made 97, registered 98 I think.

Skipping/jumping happens on the 16" wheels, 18"s not installed yet due to insurance issues (see my other thread).

If I have time on Sat I'll get the front wheels off and have a good look-see for this for the "D-cam adjuster" and also check out the drag arm for play. I recon this could be the cause as the problem has definately got worse in the last few months..

Will hopefully update on Sunday
Cheers, Chris

 

[grober]

Just for info I can tell you is that those AMG II wheels are listed in the Mercedes own alloy wheel fitment guide as suitable for the E class W210-- they also have wheel arch extension kit +body modifications required ( arches rolled??)fitting notes.

Mercedes list AMG alloys recommended max size on the C class W202 as

7.5JX17 ET35/37 front
and
8.5jx17 ET30 REAR

edit:- I'm not saying they won't fit you understand but just putting you in the picture so to speak.

 

[wigs_1]

Yes I got the wheels from an E-Class W210, I bought them based on the info I had available (alloy wheels direct).

As for wheel arch extensions, currently looking to procure some of these secondhand.



Also recon if I get the camber sorted then I won't have any problems as the rears appear fine as is the LHS front.

I'll see how I get on

Chris

 

[andy27168]

The Wheel arch extensions were used to make MB vehicles compliant with other markets, the option code mentions that these were only neccassary for export. As Grober says the 202 was never fitted with anything bigger than 17" rims from the factory.
Rolled wheel arch lips were on my 97 230K (build date 96) and that came from the factory with 15" rims so the chances are that yours are rolled as well.
The symptons you mention on full lock, was cured on mine by a full 4 wheel geometry set up.
The "pivot bolts" you mentioned are £11ea from MB, and you require 1 for castor adjustment and 1 for camber adjustment per side, a total of 4 for the car.

 

[Dieselman]

Some crude measurements using straight edges up to the wheel arch shows that the RHS wheel sits 6mm further out than the LHS. This equates (roughly) to about 1.15 degrees. Car runs straight and true though.

You can't measure camber against the bodywork as other parts may be out causing the reference point to be incorrect.
You can measure camber using a vertical spirit level or better still a plumbline but the car needs to be on perfectly level to start with.

 

[andy27168]

The Pt. No.'s for the bolts are A 202 330 01 18.
When mine was behaving in a similar manner they had to adjust the rear toe settings, this made the car handle better at a 130,000 miles than it did at 25,000miles.

 

[lynall]

I have those wheels on my e class and the gap around the top of the tyre and the bodywork is very small you can just lay your hand in the gap, well your fingers anyway , no rubbing ussues though the archs are rolled.



Lynall

 

[wigs_1]

On the 98 is probable you have pre-installed "D" cam adjuster bolts, certainly after 2000 they need to be installed.

Well, here are two pics of the front RHS suspension set-up.
Unless I'm looking in the wrong place I would assume from these pics that I don't have the "D cam" adjusters.

The Pt. No.'s for the bolts are A 202 330 01 18.

Do these bolts fit on the upper arm or the lower arm?

Cheers, Chris

 

[andy27168]

Your looking in the wrong place. You replace the lower arm inner mounting bolts with new bolts which have grooved and shaped washers.
The pt. number for these bolts i posted in my previous reply.

 

[wigs_1]

Cheers Andy

Are these the bolts (47)? (from www.detali.ru using part no)
Is it the washer that gives you the adjustment?
Chris

 

[Dieselman]

Yes. I wouldn't expect your car to have them installed as standard, it will have normal centered bolts/washers.

 

[andyshore]

On the 98 is probable you have pre-installed "D" cam adjuster bolts, certainly after 2000 they need to be installed.

Regarding the "skipping feel".... The Merc has an extremely long castor position and a low camber position, on a full lock the castor allows the tyre to roll-over on the inner wheel. As you stated you have a Geometry issue so it's reasonable to assume this "roll-over" is exaggerated.

Sounds strangely familiar.
I had a "skipping feeling" on a couple of occasions on half right hand lock, no feeling on left hand lock. What could this be?
Regards
Andy

 

[wheels-inmotion]

Sounds strangely familiar.
I had a "skipping feeling" on a couple of occasions on half right hand lock, no feeling on left hand lock. What could this be?
Regards
Andy

If this is on a lock in reverse then the camber/ castor relationship is the most probable criminal.

If you get time put the front wheels on full lock then go out and look how extreme the positions are..... from this it's easy to visualise how the tyre could drag.

 

[andy27168]

Hi,
The Camber/Caster correction kit as MB call it consists of 1 special bolt with a offset groove cut into the threaded section, 2 shaped washers and a nut, and that costs £11, two required each side (if required) four in total.

 

[wigs_1]

Ok then, managed a quick look under the car and some piccies of the front suspension lower arm pivot bolts.
Anyone recognise these bits?
I'm expecting that this is un-adjustable and I'll be forking out £44 on bolts on Saturday (a bl**dy rip-off if you ask me!). Anyone know if you can just swap these from under the car or do I have to have all the springs/dampers removed first?

Cheers, Chris