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CLK W209 Stereo Upgrade

V12

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 17, 2002
Messages
5,610
Location
Southampton
Car
S320CDI LWB
Have been promising a few members pictures and updates of what i'm actually up to with my CLK at the moment.
Started with the intention of doing a rough "How-to" for installing a stereo in an MB, but kept forgetting to take vital pictures!
All the basic rules apply to any MB.

My goals are simple :
-Must look stock or as close as possible in the interior, and as far as possible in the boot.
-Can't be overly complicated with multiple amplifiers etc - (this can easily destroy good sound by over doing things)
-Reversible if the need ever arises.
-All work done by myself to keep the costs right down.


I am very busy at work at the moment, so have been spending an hour or two after work, 3 days a week for the last 2 doing this.
This has all been done on a tight budget using second hand equipment, but any car stereo enthusiast will know, the final sound is 80% down to the quality of installation and 20% the equipment.

Here's the equipment that is going in :

Pioneer F900 BT as the source unit, this features sat nav, bluetooth, dvd etc. RRP £1500, got it second hand for £500, admittedly here i could have gone for something a lot chaper and got just as good sound quality.

Hifonics Olympus Amplifier driving all speakers RRP £800, bought for £120
For thos of you that want the specs, this will be feeding 2 x 125w RMS @ 4 Ohm to the front speakers and 500w RMS to the subs @ 2 ohm bridged.

A/D/S 364 / 641 component speakers - RRP £800ish, oldest component in the system, absolutely love these speakers (especially the silky tweeter), and picked a set up for £80 from E Bay!!

Sub Woofers - 2 x Elemental Designs EHQS 12", These subs are designed for running infinite baffle, which basically means running free air, sealed to the rear shelf and using the boot as the box. This provides arguably the best sound quality of any sub enclosure, but is damn difficult to get right! Important point is to simply the seal the boot from the cabin completely.
We'll see how this goes. Although these subs will only be receiving a maximum of 500 watts between the two of them, that will be far beyond my needs and i doubt i will ever use 200watts between the two of them.

Ok, let's start with some pictures!

First 2 show that you need to really strip back the interior to get some good space to work with and to get to all the original wiring channels and ducting.

Last pics shows where to run the power cable through. Everyone told me the cable had to run across the engine bay and through the fusebox and over the pedals, but after lifting the battery out you can clearly see the ducting that allows the cable to go through.

My big 0awg power cable wouldn't fit through, so i ran 3 x 4awg runs through the rubber block and conected them through a fused block to the 0awg cable to run the length of the car.

So we have the power cable running down the passenger side and the signal RCA cables running down the right hand side to prevent any interference.
 

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Once all the cable has been run it was time to fit the speakers.
I had the intention of just making some MDF baffles but once i took the door panels off and saw the original pods i decided to reuse these and just cut the old speakers out of the plastic surround. They were quite weak and flexible after removing the speakers so i reinforced them on the inside with Body filler, which stiffened them up perfectly.

A neat rubber gasket and 8 screws holding every speaker into these pods competed that.

You can see how good the fitment is of standard 6.5inch speakers.
 

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All fitted back on the doors, luckily the tweeters were almost a direct swap, just a little dremeling and they popped in.

The front mids are playing everything from 80hz upwards, the rear mid-basses are just reinforcing the difficult frequencies between 80hz-200hz

Next was to mount the amplifier.
I originally planned on sitting it on top of the space save spare wheel on a board with some cooling fans but decided against this once i realised i could just about squeeze even this big amp down into the left recess in the boot, it was a little bit like getting a square through a circular hole, but i got it in eventually and bracketed it with a couple of brackets to orginal bolt points. It is now sat solidly and everything wired up! Another advantage of it sitting here is that all the cable can now easily be concealed behind original trim.

Chucked my brothers spare sub in the boot to give it a quick test run and initial listening showed that it is a massive improvement over the original system or any bose or harman kardon upgrades althought the mid-bass is still lacking a little focus in the vocal ranges which is a little annoying, but most likely due to my extra mid-basses that need some tweaking.

A friend watched me put the passenger door panel back on and thought it was so unbelievably quick he timed me taking the drives panel off. 1min 50secs...not bad, not bad...

More pics to come of the infinite baffle set-up and the final trim up as and when i get that sorted.
 

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Was asked about the exact advantages of running infinite baffle and the kind of sound it produces.

Here's a graph to demonstrate the general frequency response of most IB subs.

We're only really interested in the frequencies under 100hz, the front speakers cover the rest easily.

You can see that the Infinite baffle and sealed enclosures are much smoother and less peaky than the ported and that the IB has much better low-end extension than either. This will generally mean lower, smother, cleaner sound which most people prefer.

Some hip-hop junkies do like the peaks of a ported box and these go loud without a lot of power.

Sealed boxes are the hardest to get wrong, but also require by far the most amount of power to get as loud as the others.
 

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I went a bit crazy and decided to overdo it and have it right first time than try and fix a bad first attempt.

Name that part of metal!!
 

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After my little re-lapse to my mental self i decided to get on with the baffle board and cut that (easiest job of the whole install)

Fitted the subs in, dropped it in the hole and luckily it went first time with my measurements.

You can see from the pics how unobtrusive the magnets are in the boot, making it almost as useable as any other, even with some serious sound equipment in there.

That was just a test fit, i had to cut loads of little spacer blocks to get the parcel shelf level enough to fit the baffle board.

I gripfilled and screwed all of the spacers so that they were solid, including 2 long ones that run from left to right to make the whole thing even more rigid, than it was from the factory...(wonder if this helps my handling :rolleyes::D)

Then i used two whole tubes of gripfiull before sitting the board down and about 40 screws from underneath to make sure it is 100% airtight all around.

Sorry i didn't get a picture of it actually fitted, it's dark outside!!

Just need to trim it up, tidy up the boot and install the headunit (currently running off a test unit)
 

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Just about there now...

Managed to cut/tear the original foam padding for the rear shelf to fit around the new baffle board and got it all snug fitting.

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Squashed it in as much as i could, just to keep everything nice and tight fitting.

Original parcel shelf back on
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I wish...:wallbash:

Couldn't get it to sit down properly and ended up having to make a couple of cuts...

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Will get the rear shelf retrimmed in acoustic cloth to let the sound through the rear slot.

Have wired it up now and it sounds...absolutely amazing :bannana: The bass doesn't give you a headache as it isn't boomy or delayed, it's really tight and deep and perfectly compliments the front speakers, had a quick blast on some bass heavy music and it can REALLY shake the mirrors if needs be, but on normal listening it sounds very well balanced.

Going to take the front speakers back out tonight or tomorrow and strengthen the outside of the pod as well as the inside and see if that helps the clarity and focus of the mids, if not i'll just make some plates out of MDF...

At some points when you drive a car around with nothing other than the drivers seat you wonder whether it's worth all the hassle...i just found out that it is :D
 
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Got all of the functions working perfectly on the new head unit apart from reversing camera installed...

AVIC-F900BT Pioneer Navigation - GPS system - Navigation

I must say that the interface is a breath of fresh air after suffering through my last few stereos...Sat nav is excellent, built in parrot is great with phonebook sync, mp3's from dvd is easy to navigate and obviously saves lots of space. Really a great investment.
Will get some videos to show operation...
 
Amazing piece of work. Can you show us some finished / fitted pic's ?
 
I'll try and get some in a minute, battery on charge...
Anything in particular you'd like to see?
 
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I've been slacking and haven't done much over the last week.

Still need to finish the trim to cover the amp, re-strengthen the front speaker pods, re-trim the rear parcel shelf and just found out that the rear shelf needs a little more bracing than previously anticipated.
 
Some questions

Hi Mate,
Amazing job, I am doing the same but a little behind you on progress as I am working four jobs at the moment. don't ask!:doh:

Have fitted the headunit DNX7200 with sat nav bluetooth and also a rear view camera.

Have run the cables to the boot but yet to do the speakers and subwoofers etc.

I have 3 Kicker comp 12" left from last car with yellow top battery so not sure if I should do air subs like yours or make a box custom built. I think I would only use 2 of them.

I do have some questions if you can be kind enough an answer, originally had many mor ebut reading your thread you have already answered most:

1-how did you take the rear panel off? I spent half a day and could not get the seat belt part off!
confused.gif
Wasted so much time and didn't make progress so I ran the cables under the seat which is not ideal. The only way I could see was taking the whole motor etc. with seat belt retrieve mechanism off which was a huge job!

2- Did you amp the speakers or running them on their own? If you did, are both front and rear amped or just fronts?

I really appreciate your help on this.

Kind regards

Andy
 
To narrow things down for you a little bit perhaps, the solobarics are not designed or suitable for a free-air application and need to be boxed to work well. So unless you get some suitable subs you're stuck with making a box.

1. To remove the rear panels you need to
-first of all take the "c pillar" trims off, the two by the screen.
-pop out the airbag plastic badges
-undo the t25(i think) torx screw
-unclip very carefully, sort of pulls in towards the centre of the car.
-Remove the end of the seatbelt
-unbolt the chrome sliding rail on the floor
-pull the hand over arm out 3 inches or so (it is meant to come out manually this far)
-push a flat screwdriver in through the bottom hole until you hear the click and remove the end triangle plastic piece.
-pull the rubber door seal out
-about half way up there is a little gap between the 2 panels that connect to from the complete panel, there is a little black plastic clip, you need to pull this to unclip the top panel from the bottom.
-once that is loose lift it up out of the window seal.
-the lower section is just poppered into the quarter panel, you can pop it out very easily.

All of this sounds a lot harder than it is! you don't really have to dismantle the rear panels into 2 pieces if you don't want to, i didn't on my drivers side, but decided to on the passenger side...

2. All the speakers are amped up, to me there is no other option. I have temporarily disconnected the rear speakers, but they were running through a passive 3 way crossover, meaning the rear speakers were just producing mid bass.

Hope that all helps, if you need anything else, just ask!
 
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Door Panels

Hi Mate,
Thanks for all your help and advice. I have since made much progress and should soon be able to take some pics for you.

I have a couple of quick questions though. you mentioned the door panels and how easy they are to remove. Do they have screws to undo them? my old CLK had one under the Airbag sign and one in the door handle! Is it the same on this too?

You also mentioned not running rear speakers, have you disconnected them totally? Do you know what size the rear ones are?

Once again thank you for your help.

Cheers

Andy
 
Andy,

Yes, the procedure for removing the door trims is identical, 2 screws, unclip the bottom, pull up at the top starting at the back.

I have run speaker cable from the rear speakers to the boot which is disconnected at the moment, but at some stage i will reconnect them and tunr the setup, just trying to get the 2 ways sounding nice befiore i make it any more complicated.

The rear pods can house 6.5" speakers pretty easily with a small mdf spacer.
 
does your multifunction steering wheel work with your new headunit?
thanks
bhav
 

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