Hi all,
My remote locking doesn't work very well at all in my 2006 CLS. It works at nighttime, close up to the handle (presumably infra-red frequency) but not during the daylight at all, and never from far away (presumably radio frequency). It's not a key issue.
I noticed a melted fuse a few weeks ago in the rear boot fuse box, fuse no 10. which should be for the heated rear window. It had a 30amp fuse, which I replaced, but I noticed at the weekend it melted again. Then I did some further research and realised it should be a 40amp fuse in that position.
Questions are;
I think the fuse position is literally toast. I took the 40amp fuse from position 6 which is for the Comand unit, and didn't see an impact, to the remote locking at least. It's hard to test the rear demister unless it's steamed up.
From what I read, the remote locking antenna uses the rear window wires to extend it's signal reach?
My remote locking doesn't work very well at all in my 2006 CLS. It works at nighttime, close up to the handle (presumably infra-red frequency) but not during the daylight at all, and never from far away (presumably radio frequency). It's not a key issue.
I noticed a melted fuse a few weeks ago in the rear boot fuse box, fuse no 10. which should be for the heated rear window. It had a 30amp fuse, which I replaced, but I noticed at the weekend it melted again. Then I did some further research and realised it should be a 40amp fuse in that position.
Questions are;
- Do you think a 30amp would melt, as the current is too high and it should be a 40amp?
- Do you think this is related to the Remote Locking issue?
- How hard is it to remove/replace the rear fuse box?
I think the fuse position is literally toast. I took the 40amp fuse from position 6 which is for the Comand unit, and didn't see an impact, to the remote locking at least. It's hard to test the rear demister unless it's steamed up.
From what I read, the remote locking antenna uses the rear window wires to extend it's signal reach?