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conductor plate

why do i get the feeling im pissing against the wind here ? im trying to do the best i can with limited funds to make my car as reliable as i can, but keep getting negative vibes of people !!!!
Is it negative for someone to suggest that you save your money? Right now, it's not clear to me that there's a problem with your conductor plate.
 
Is it negative for someone to suggest that you save your money? Right now, it's not clear to me that there's a problem with your conductor plate.
i have said the gear changes are not as smooth as they should be, more so from 2nd to 3rd. ive read and seen lots of info on the conductor plate can fail around 70,000 miles and fitting a new one helps as the speed sensor can come loose, yeah an oil change might fix it but while im in their i thought i might as well change the plate as well. it could also be a dodgy solenoid (and other things) ???? but where do i stop !!!! doesn't help that their is no codes.
ive got all the parts so when the weather clears i'll do the job and see how it goes, hopefully it works.
 
You may fit whatever parts you desire, no problems with that.
But as a part Meyle is no good for an MB, if it fails early you have to buy the same part again, meaning you paid twice.

Buying genuine from the first would give you more security of knowing you bought the right part from the beginning.
It's all about economics.

Same goes with Lemförder suspension arms.
Those made in Germany consists of better material quality as opposed to suspension arms made in Italy which rusts premature.

I wish you luck with your repairjob :thumb:
 
You may fit whatever parts you desire, no problems with that.
But as a part Meyle is no good for an MB, if it fails early you have to buy the same part again, meaning you paid twice.

Buying genuine from the first would give you more security of knowing you bought the right part from the beginning.
It's all about economics.

Same goes with Lemförder suspension arms.
Those made in Germany consists of better material quality as opposed to suspension arms made in Italy which rusts premature.

I wish you luck with your repairjob :thumb:
please tell me how you know it will fail early ? where are you getting this info from ? and how much it a genuine one ?
 
i have said the gear changes are not as smooth as they should be, more so from 2nd to 3rd. ive read and seen lots of info on the conductor plate can fail around 70,000 miles and fitting a new one helps as the speed sensor can come loose, yeah an oil change might fix it but while im in their i thought i might as well change the plate as well. it could also be a dodgy solenoid (and other things) ???? but where do i stop !!!! doesn't help that their is no codes.
ive got all the parts so when the weather clears i'll do the job and see how it goes, hopefully it works.
The conductor plate is an electronic component of the transmission. If it's got no codes , it probably not it and a regular flush and fill will likely do a world of good. Go ahead and swap it, but I instead of throwing the old plate away, stick it in the box and put it on the shelf, you might need it in the future.

Also make sure that you have a good battery as low voltage cause all kinds of problems with shifting
 
The conductor plate is an electronic component of the transmission. If it's got no codes , it probably not it and a regular flush and fill will likely do a world of good. Go ahead and swap it, but I instead of throwing the old plate away, stick it in the box and put it on the shelf, you might need it in the future.

Also make sure that you have a good battery as low voltage cause all kinds of problems with shifting
yes my intention was to keep the one i take out as a back up, battery is in good health.
I could just try an oil/filter change as that was what i was gona do, but after watching video's and doing plenty of reading the conductor plate came up as an issue and without any codes, a mate of my mate is an ex MB tech and he said he's changed a few with no codes and fixed the issue. got to be worth a try at least ?
 
Sure, but he probably did a fluid flush at the same time as the pan has to come down and filter has to come out. More importantly, replace the plug as that is known for failing and allowing ATF to run up the wires to the TCM. The TCM should be checked to make sure the lines are dry.

Fluid should meet MB 236.10 spec of higher (although the later specs are too thin for my liking).

In any case going forward. My only suggestion is to research brands when getting parts. I don't have a problem with Chinese made products. There's a whole room in the British museum for the silk trade so clearly they've been making things for a long time. A company packaging Chinese made goods in boxes with Germany written all over them is a bit suspect though so it pays sometime to do a bit of reading.

Good luck with your car
 
Sure, but he probably did a fluid flush at the same time as the pan has to come down and filter has to come out. More importantly, replace the plug as that is known for failing and allowing ATF to run up the wires to the TCM. The TCM should be checked to make sure the lines are dry.

Fluid should meet MB 236.10 spec of higher (although the later specs are too thin for my liking).

In any case going forward. My only suggestion is to research brands when getting parts. I don't have a problem with Chinese made products. There's a whole room in the British museum for the silk trade so clearly they've been making things for a long time. A company packaging Chinese made goods in boxes with Germany written all over them is a bit suspect though so it pays sometime to do a bit of reading.

Good luck with your car
I'm a bit wary of cheap Chinese parts and generally don't use them, as to the Meyle stuff ive used them many times on customers cars and my own, never as yet heard of a failure. i'm sure Meyle have some sort of quality control ?
being a biker and bike mechanic for many years the market has been flooded with Chinese parts for quite a while, at first the quality was low BUT as time as gone on the quality of the parts has improved quite a lot, some of the stuff is very high quality and better than some of the expensive named stuff but cheaper !!!!!
what i'm saying is you can't always write off cheap Chinese parts because of what they used to be like !!!!! but i'm not saying its all good either.
when the conductor plate shows up i will give it a good looking over and eventually compare it with the one i take out.
 
please tell me how you know it will fail early ? where are you getting this info from ? and how much it a genuine one ?

Interweb is your best pal.
Do a search and be suspicious of everything
 
Don't mean to derail the conversation, but....

You know what, something I have recently been made aware is that the 203/209 platform has a design deffect on the ESP loom connector. Especially early ones as far as I understood.

That is far more crucial to how the car drives than any transmission service or conductor plate quality.

I'm told the receiving pins on the loom side don't grab tight enough on the module side, leading to intermittent coupling.

It flags up no errors at all, or sometimes silent communication errors to the gyroscopes and transmission.

The car drives weird. Sometimes shift hiccups. Most of the time no torque converter action (feels lazy). Sometimes is heavy to stop. Handles awkward. Feels like a lose steering rack... but never slides.

Took me 10 years for figure this one out, and still working on the repair...
 
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exactly !!!!! the only way to know for sure is doing it yourself.

Little update: I got a reply from the ZF supplier on the 722.9 solenoid seal kit, but still waiting to hear about the 722.6 kit...
 
yeah ive seen some upgrade stuff for them, not bothered about that sort of thing just a normal smooth box will do 👍
I agree , from what iv seen some of these kits speed up the shift at the expense of smooth operation, ok if you want to shave a millisecond off your quarter mile time but not something I would be a fan of.
 

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