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Engine missing

Been for a drive now. And at idle now sits at 1.3v.

I could not get it above 3.9v even though the engine was screaming in 2nd/3rd. General driving was around 2v or a bit more.
Everytime I stopped at traffic lights etc idled at 1.3v.

:)
 
Been for a drive now. And at idle now sits at 1.3v.

I could not get it above 3.9v even though the engine was screaming in 2nd/3rd. General driving was around 2v or a bit more.
Everytime I stopped at traffic lights etc idled at 1.3v.

:)

It's knackered...

That's what is causing the lean mixture when under acceleration.

Et Viola..

Just check the meter setting is right...before finally condemning it.
 
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Really? Wow.....I'm excited! Lol....GSF is open til half 5......!
 
Would I have a 3 way cat?

apparently I do....

£168+Vat for Bosch

£38+vat for a 'cheap cheap' one
 
Well, I'm pretty sure that's it...just make doubly sure the connections were good, etc, then go for it.
I'm only suspicious because you said the idle voltage was 2v earlier.

The symptoms fit and the lambda sensor did report lean mixture under load, which also fits the problem symptoms of holding back and coughing.
 
The 2v at idle was when I first started it and in neutral. After driving the first junction and onwards it idled at 1.3v.
 
The 2v at idle was when I first started it and in neutral.

Was it revving up a bit to give a fast idle at that point.?

The real test is the flat out one. If it can't achieve a decent figure it's duff or very dirty....
 
Everyone has said go for Bosch every time.....£130 difference! :dk:
 
Was it revving up a bit to give a fast idle at that point.?

The real test is the flat out one. If it can't achive a decent figure it's duff or very dirty....

Sometimes it can be a little high idle at first (just above 1000rpm) then settles below about 800rpm.
 
I'd go for Bosch, but see if there is a cheaper supplier. If you get the p/n off the actual element it might be available.

Possible supplier.
Emission Controls.co.uk
 
Well , you can afford to buy 4 cheapy ones for the price of an OEM one , and knowing how long you keep your cars ....

If you got through a cheapy one a year , you'd still be in pocket ...
 
Just changed the MAF. Car starts but cuts out.....

if you rev it, it will eventually hold at idle but it doesn't like it.

Turn off, start again, cuts out..... :(

Any reason it would do this, bought the cheaper one purely to see if it was the problem, I can take it back if I need to. Could it be because it IS the cheap version? I'm gonna change it back cos it ran better on the old one.
 
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I'd say so. It should at least run, it did even with the old one disconnected.
 
Did the cheap one have any brand on it?

Box was plain and unmarked. So was the MAF although cant be 100% on that now, will check when changing it.

I'll take it back tomorrow and they can swap it for the Bosch one. It's actually £192 get some discount the amount of times I go there, makes it £168. Only £20 or so but it's something.

Trying to 'borrow' a friends car and rob bits off it....that silver one in my sig......:devil:

Can I clean my Bosch one with Carb cleaner at all? Or is that a no no.
 
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To try cleaning you need something non-aggressive and without residue.

I have used isopropyl alcohol (1/2 litre about £5 from chemists) - if you just sluice it any oily film will dissolve and then the alcohol will evaporate away.

Don't touch or rub the sensor surface.
 
Before spending on any more parts just have someone check around the intake ducts for possible air leaks. A leak would make the MAS read low and cause problems.

If no leaks are apparent a spray around with carb cleaner of plus gas would be a good test.
 
Just changed it back to my old one. Starts and idles sweet.

Bosch one then? :D
 
Euros are doing the Bosch one for your car for £127 delivered (Next day delivery free over £50):....Here
 
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