fixing a failed injector seat and bolt

[Danny DeVito]

Replace the head or engine

 

[bob6600]

Hi Again, how di you manage a m10 bolt in this hole? I had to grind down the m8 so it misses the injector? I am trying to get this goin due to the botched job, if I can secure bolt the injector due to the scrap state of the seat (that the seat cutter cant reach also) what is the next move?

I didn't do it, the M10 was put it by someone else who had previously 'repaired' it, but the fork has been drilled as well as the head. The bolt is actually too big as the head touched the injector side. I grinded it down so it could be tightened (have no idea how it was done in the first place)

Looks like you need a new head

You seem to have cut way too much off as it's supposed to be more of a 'skim' as apposed to a 'cut'

You have nothing to lose by using a second washer as it seems you have taken at least another washer's depth off the head

 

[Danny DeVito]

Maybe some putty

 

[gsc1ugs]

I didnt cut the seat, van came in like this, the seat is well out of shape, ive done a bit of reaming myself and it now looks pretty clean and flat, tried one 1.7m washer and now there is just a very tiny compression leak, m8 bolt still not tightening enough because thread is really bad, nothing much left, is it poss go to m9 or should i try 2 or 3 wurth time-serts with original bolt? helicoils dont work for this job anyhow

 

[gsc1ugs]

what sort of putty? fire putty?

 

[Danny DeVito]

Ok so the seat is buggered it seems at this stage you can replace the head etc. Or try patch it up. Maybe instead of just throwing in two seals to keep it going, you might try put a seal on the end of the injector then a really really slim washer, really slim. Then throw on another washer. Maybe use a tiny really tiny amount of super glue at the two edges to keep it all together. Only at the edges and only a touch to hold it in place. At least the seals have a good face each then. Easier than replacing a head which i would be fearful of for eh some people. Be sure to let me know if you decide to try this. Very interested to see if it would work ?

 

[gsc1ugs]

Well, i may try the m10 tap and bolt first because m8 bolts are slipping done so no need for drilling, what about a gasket gue instead of superglue because once the engine gets warm i can see the superglue melting. There is fire putty which can stand high temps aswell.

 

[err0r]

How about this ??...
Drill the hole to a M10 if the metal surrounding will allow....
Get a M10 bolt shank drill in the center and tapped to M6 ....
Cut a Screwdriver slot on the top.... use some Loctite on the thread of the M10 insert, screw into the head and allow to dry....
You will then have a M6 thread again... better than any helicoil....

You can also get the washers at different depths... so if 1.7 mm is to thin, goto a 3mm washer ..... Most decent auto part retail outlets keep a box of assorted washers..

 

[Danny DeVito]

The glue is only to hold the seal in place on the end of the injector while you put it in. After its all in then it doesn't matter.

 

[gsc1ugs]

copper ring? I was thinking due to the bad seat which I may add is much better now I've cut it some seal on that just to finish off, gun gum? that takes some heat, bit like a gasket seal when doin a sump, something to fill the tiny tiny holes

 

[gsc1ugs]

I've finished the m10 tapping and have my bolt... what you reckon?

 

[Danny DeVito]

No sealer allowed on copper seals