HOW TO: change the automatic gerbox oil and flush on a 722.6 'box

[Jehanzeb]

Did you run it long enough to heat the ATF to 80 before checking the level? And was it OK then at that point?

To be truthful I cannot say I ran it long enough to reach 80 before checking the oil as when the car was stationary on Sunday I started the car and left engine running until the temp reached 80 but then it was raining so I didn’t open the hood and test however later when rain stopped, the engine was switched off for approx 20mins or so, I checked the oil with dip stick and it was close to the top 80 on the dipstick gauge.

Today’s update: from 1st to 2nd gear the car changed gear perfectly smooth but on third gear I heard a grinding noise for few seconds followed by a boom boom sound (as if you blow in a empty metal pipe, it’s not the exhaust as I have a brand new Mercedes original exhaust pipe fitted) - that sound was for few seconds and then when the car picked up speed that sound went away. the car drove perfectly fine from 60mph to 80mph on motorway but as soon as I slowed down I heard the cog noise (grinding) again for few seconds and then it went away again.

My worst nightmare (hopefully not), Could this be a problem with coolant or God forbid water made its way to transmission via broken/crack pipe or TC or Gearbox gone? I am not entirely sure but it does look to me the issue is worst especially the new discovery of grinding noise even for few seconds. For now am sticking to oil change but also ordered solenoids. Once get them delivered and possibly change them this or next weekend.

Kindest regards
Jehanzeb

 

[Justintyme]

To be truthful I cannot say I ran it long enough to reach 80 before checking the oil as when the car was stationary on Sunday I started the car and left engine running until the temp reached 80 but then it was raining so I didn’t open the hood and test however later when rain stopped, the engine was switched off for approx 20mins or so, I checked the oil with dip stick and it was close to the top 80 on the dipstick gauge.

Today’s update: from 1st to 2nd gear the car changed gear perfectly smooth but on third gear I heard a grinding noise for few seconds followed by a boom boom sound (as if you blow in a empty metal pipe, it’s not the exhaust as I have a brand new Mercedes original exhaust pipe fitted) - that sound was for few seconds and then when the car picked up speed that sound went away. the car drove perfectly fine from 60mph to 80mph on motorway but as soon as I slowed down I heard the cog noise (grinding) again for few seconds and then it went away again.

My worst nightmare (hopefully not), Could this be a problem with coolant or God forbid water made its way to transmission via broken/crack pipe or TC or Gearbox gone? I am not entirely sure but it does look to me the issue is worst especially the new discovery of grinding noise even for few seconds. For now am sticking to oil change but also ordered solenoids. Once get them delivered and possibly change them this or next weekend.

Kindest regards
Jehanzeb

No use the engine temp showing 80.....( if that is what you are saying ) it has to be the box, and if you search back through my posts, you will find one pic showing the relationship between ATF fluid and temperature...and the proper level of ATF in these transmissions is so important..it has to be exactly between the upper marks on the dipstick,( but definitely not higher than the MAX mark ) at 80 . so my advice would be to get it scanned now, before jumping to conclusions. I would not recommend driving it anywhere before you get it scanned. No point in adding to the problem.

 

[Mikeone]

That is very detailed congrats mate !

 

[ML320edition10]

Hi my 1st time on this site, I require some help! I have a E320 sport w211 2007 and my electric transmission plate speed sensor has packed up. Rang a few people (dealers & merc specialist) prices range from £600 plus for the part only.

1. Does anyone now where you can get electric transmission plate (don’t fancy paying £££)

2. Does any one know if I require a plug or does my model not have one?

Please could someone help out????

 

[AMGeed]

Hi my 1st time on this site, I require some help! I have a E320 sport w211 2007 and my electric transmission plate speed sensor has packed up. Rang a few people (dealers & merc specialist) prices range from £600 plus for the part only.

1. Does anyone now where you can get electric transmission plate (don’t fancy paying £££)

2. Does any one know if I require a plug or does my model not have one?

Please could someone help out????

I think you would be be advised to visit an MB indy to confirm what you actually need. (Valve body, speed sensor, electroplate) If you have (I think you do) the 7G transmission, then I believe you need the part coded to the car with Star ( Mercedes diagnostics) and can't buy them "off the shelf" from your parts dept.

Where are you located so maybe someone can suggest a good independant MB tech to assist?

 

[ML320edition10]

Hi AMGeed, thanks for the fast response - I live in Derby. yes I have the 7G transmission, I searched ebay and found a electroplate for 100 quid. I did visit MB derby (which are a rip off). I am just hoping this electroplate is the correct one.

 

[ML320edition10]

this is what I bought from ebay… would anyone know if this is the correct plate for my car?

FOR MERCEDES E-CLASS W210, W211, TRANSMISSION CONDUCTOR PLATE SPEED SENSOR | eBay

 

[AMGeed]

^ Sorry
That is for a 5 speed transmission and not 7G.
I'm sure it can only be obtained by indies in the trade as it has to be coded to the car to work.

See if you can cancel the purchase. Bought in error.

 

[DSM10000]

Hi my 1st time on this site, I require some help! I have a E320 sport w211 2007 and my electric transmission plate speed sensor has packed up. Rang a few people (dealers & merc specialist) prices range from £600 plus for the part only.

1. Does anyone now where you can get electric transmission plate (don’t fancy paying £££)

2. Does any one know if I require a plug or does my model not have one?

Please could someone help out????

I would also suggest that you make a new thread rather than adding to this one as there is more chance of others seeing it and helping you.

 

[clk320x]

I’m so glad both my cars have the 722.6 seems to be a trouble free box.

 

[BIG Sean]

Question for Olly from my mate who is doing this for me - when running the four minutes to empty the TC is the car in drive, neutral or park??

I've bought EIGHT litres of the correct spec oil is 8l enough??

 

[Justintyme]

Quote:- Question for Olly from my mate who is doing this for me - when running the four minutes to empty the TC is the car in drive, neutral or park??
I've bought EIGHT litres of the correct spec oil is 8l enough??
BIG Sean Un Quote.
We have to go back a little bit,,,,,,if you do not have a drain plug on the TC, then the only alternative for draining the TC is: After draining and removing the sump, replacing the filter, cleaning are refitting the sump, you refill the sump with the exact amount of oil that was drained out of it. You refill it via the dipstick tube, then and only then do you disconnect the return pipe ( cooling pipe from the radiator back to the transmission, hook up a drain pipe to the disconnected one. The other end of this pipe you put into a large plastic container that you have previously marked at the the 2 ltr level. Then start up the engine in "P" and and it will start pumping out fluid from the TC. When it empty's 2 litres, turn off the engine, refill with 2 ltrs new fluid, and repeat this process until you can see fresh fluid appearing. That's when you will know that your TC and pipes etc, have been flushed completely. Under no circumstance's would I leave it pumping for 4 mins,,, do it in 2 ltr segments, and that way you will always have fluid in the TC and transmission itself, which it needs to work. I'd say that 8 ltrs will not be enough to finish the job...I used 12 ltr's when I did my E class. Good Luck, and if you need more info, or don't understand my description of the job, feel free to ask, OK ?

 

[andrews46]

New member to the forum. Great to see such a detailed guide. Thanks

 

[AW8]

For my sanity, clean hands, & clothes, not having to dispose of old fluid, no broken stud concerns & star reset......... I would rather pay the money for someone else to do this.

For me this thread more likely to result in a later booking than a d.i.y. job.

 

[Justintyme]

For my sanity, clean hands, & clothes, not having to dispose of old fluid, no broken stud concerns & star reset......... I would rather pay the money for someone else to do this.

For me this thread more likely to result in a later booking than a d.i.y. job.

Sure and why not? Lots of people get a level of satisfaction from doing their own servicing dirt and all ( as you can see from this forum ) and some prefer to let the professionals do their servicing for them, but like to have an idea of what that servicing entails, and thats fine too.

 

[AW8]

Sure...I was just explaining why I personally would prefer not to d.i.y. THIS job. Very familiar with the ethos of decent car forums, doing d.i.y. servicing & some jobs myself, (dirty hands included).

 

[Justintyme]

Sure...I was just explaining why I personally would prefer not to d.i.y. THIS job. Very familiar with the ethos of decent car forums, doing d.i.y. servicing & some jobs myself, (dirty hands included).

There are certain jobs that I'd be wary of tackling too..( especially when it comes to electronics..,,, which incidentally, I have a very good relationship with...mainly due to the fact we keep as far apart as possible... ) Those, I'm very happy to hand over to the acknowledged experts, but any "nuts and bolt" type repairs I'm happy to do. I'm retired now, so can work at my leisure, and its a bit of a Win/Win situation..I do the routine servicing on the family "Fleet", and it keeps down costs for them as well as keeping me busy.

 

[amelbeach]

To change and flush mine ('09 E320 Bluetec), I drained and dropped the pan, and replaced the filter, seal and bolts. I opened the little rubber stopper under the torque converter and rotated the engine until the drain plug was visible.







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