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How to change the automatic gerbox oil and flush on a 722.6 'box

I am so pleased that I have found BlackC55's fantastically informative guide to changing the ATF and filter in a 722.6 box, as I'm just about to undertake this very job on my 2003 C200 CDI.

Unfortunately though, I lack the ability to fabricate something similar to Olly's cleverly adapted banjo bolt and hose set-up which he uses to drain the torque converter. Hence this question.........

Would the simple removal of the transmission banjo bolt altogether (and then running the engine for 4 mins as suggested) still allow the torque converter fluid to drain out successfully?

And if so, would the fluid come out in a reasonably controlled manner (ie would it be catchable in a bowl) or would it spray everywhere uncontrollably and under high pressure?

Also, it would be good to know before I attempt it, whether the fluid will come out of the transmission casing, the disconnected pipe, or both?

I am particularly nervous because I will be working in the cramped conditions and constraints afforded by a pair of lowly and ancient 9 inch high car ramps.

I'd also just like to take this opportunity thank everyone involved on the site for sharing such a superb wealth of invaluable information. It has helped me out so much on so many occassions over recent years. :)

If you read post 76 you will find its possible to break into the transmission cooling pipework to the radiator elsewhere [= closer to the radiator] - which might be easier for you?
 
Infra red thermometer

Recently read on a Jaguar forum about the use of an handheld infra red thermometer for remote measuring the temperature of automatic gearbox fluid rapidly during the fluid change procedure. These devices are becoming increasingly accessible pricewise and might save quite bit of time in the workshop. In addition their ability to monitor the temperature of many components engine/electronics/brakes would make them a valuable diagnostic tool in trouble shooting. As a precaution it would be wise to calibrate the readout with other test equipment but after that it should be extremely quick. MAPLINS do them- but take alook at the accuracy specs first! Infrared Thermometer with DualLaser Targeting Free Delivery : Enviroment Testers : Maplin
 
If the EPC for my VIN shows a TC drain plug is that definitive that I have a TC drain?
 
The fluid from the pipe stops flowing when the TC and pipework/cooler is empty. When you top up for the second time it re-fills.

Olly,

Is this the same procedure with the box on a C55??

I was speaking/booking mine in with a well respected garage today and they told me the only way to drain the TC, which they recommend doing, is to waste about another 10 litres of fresh oil doing so.

Is that right, or does the method you explained prior to this also cover my box?

If your write up does apply to mine and there is no need to waste an extra 10 litres of oil, any chance you could give me a hint as to what to say to them so they understand and semi think I know what the hell I am talking about.

Much appreciated and would come to you if you were not so far away!!

Terry
 
Can anyone help with my above post?? Due to get this done on Tuesday and really want to get my TC done, but dont want to pay the extra hundred quid to have it done if I dont need to.
 
If your C55 has a 722.6 [five speed auto]. The procedure to remove all the fluid is the same.
 
Quickest and easiest way is to ring your local MB dealer with the chassis number. It will come up on EPC. Alternatively if you give me your chassis ill tell you
 
Yesterday I followed this thread to do my 2001 E320CDi (tiptronic) Sump and filter no problems but i thought i would empty the T.C by getting a new banjo Pipe ( tried to get a scrapper but no luck ) so bought the pipe from Merc I then thought If I cut the pipe and then put the cut pipe below onto the Bellhousing i could attach a hose on the end and I was thinking Turn it over 4mins and pump it out The pipe is shown below but on inspecting Ollies pictures it looks like his pipe taps off the circuit as a T connection so the circuit is still intact and pressure forces a flow out of his drain hose . With my method I do not know which way the fluid is pumped if it is the return then I cannot use this end of the Pipe as its in the bottom of the Bellhousing ie the receiving end I need to attach the other end of my pipe to the Joint upstream
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The main question is whether I can empty the TC by leaving the bellhousing end open and pumping out of the Pipe what happens at the Bellhousing end when its left open will the 3 litres in the sump drain out will it only drip whats in that part of the Box and importantly will anything be running dry when its idling for 4 minutes on the Pump out ?
 
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So I'm on Plan B which is whether this will work with just this bit of the pipe attached on the pipe from the cooler with a hose on the end of it but this leaves the bellhousing Banjo Pipe open ended
With ollies T- connection the direction of Flow is not important as pressure feeds fluid down the T while maintaining the circuit .
On my solution where one end is open the flow direction is crucial
here is the part of the pipe that i am thinking of connecting upstram of the bellhousing ie from the cooler
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I did mine without a pipe on and if it's only an occasional job it's probably quicker and less hassle to clean up afterward than fabricate some thing to use once. Be warned, most of 3 litres or so come out in about 10 seconds, after that the pump spends most of it's time sucking air. Has added bonus of rustproofing the floor and bulkhead!
 
Presumably it came out of the pipe running from the cooler to the LH(pass side) of Bellhousing ie the lowest bellhousing connection
If thats the case then my pipe above with some hosing will do an I'll turn over for about 30secs I'm happy with 80-90% of the TC ie the 3litres you mention
 
I thought the oil came from the bell housing outlet though might be wrong, I let it get on with while stood with keys in hand.
 
Gents, far easier to disconnect the the flexible pipe which comes from the radiator on the right hand side of the car - hang the flexible pipe down wards into a plastic bucket and run the engine until all the ATF pumps out. No mess what so ever:thumb:
 
Gents, far easier to disconnect the the flexible pipe which comes from the radiator on the right hand side of the car - hang the flexible pipe down wards into a plastic bucket and run the engine until all the ATF pumps out. No mess what so ever:thumb:

Thats what we do but these are sometimes pretty badly seized.
 
Gents, far easier to disconnect the the flexible pipe which comes from the radiator on the right hand side of the car - hang the flexible pipe down wards into a plastic bucket and run the engine until all the ATF pumps out. No mess what so ever:thumb:

Is that clearing the torque converter as well?
You still need to open the pan to channge the filter too?
 
No flexi hose on the 320CDI :( all metal pipework to the cooler at the front so I have just built a cheap pipe "tool " with plastic tube and T-pieces I'm going to undo the metal banjo pipe and connect up my pipe ,as its see through I should be able to see which end it comes from:) and there are no open ends now its sealed posting a picture of it on the next post
 
H

Hi John.!.. this job is proving more difficult than i thought to do properly :wallbash: Flushing the Torque converter is the hard part Here is the Plumbing I have temporarily installed basically a T off the Pipe I've Just put 3 litres in the Pan and started her up no big dump of fluid.....a bit comes out ..... and it looks like its coming from the Bellhousing passenger side(red and fresh ) so that looks like the Flow not the return it goes into the bottom part of the Trans Cooler up front The Pipe on the other side of the bellhousing higher up and above the Pilot Bush looks more to me like the return So in terms of system flow it "looks " like it should feed off the bottom of the Bellhousing (pass side ) and return at the Top (drivers side ) but Ollies piccies show the "drain pipe" connected up same side as my drain on the pass side there is not much going on if i run the engine so i am thinking about airlocks now and what to do next ????:confused::confused::confused:
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