shorty
MB Enthusiast
The Auto Close on the S211 is worked by a hydrolics ( spelling ) , the is a pump on the left side of the car and this is connected to an actuator in the hindge box . In the hindge box there is also an assistor strut , the ends of these can be seen when the tail gate is open , the outter strut on eash side is a assistor strut . These can fail it could be that one of these has failed and you tail gate is not being supported properly , and this would cause the door to slam closed . There is no settings on STAR for the tail gate assist .
OK thanks for this.
Is there a way I can test these assistor struts in situ?
If I close the door manually, it's quite stiff. So there's plenty of resistance but is that simply because I'm pushing against a stationary motor or does that mean the struts are ok?
Is there a way I can test these assistor struts in situ?
If I close the door manually, it's quite stiff. So there's plenty of resistance but is that simply because I'm pushing against a stationary motor or does that mean the struts are ok?
shorty
MB Enthusiast
Its not really posable to check these struts with out removing them . There easy to remove , but refitting them can be a nightmare . There snap fitted the a ball at the front and at the hinge end there snaped over a ball with a hoilding clip .
Had a look on WIS and it states that a position sensor tells the pump to stop just before the tailgate reaches the end stop position. Once the pump has stopped, the final section of closure is performed by the power close feature (i.e. the bit where it sucks it home).
So i reckon this sensor needs adjusting. However, can't find anything on WIS that explains how this position sensor can be calibtated or reset.
Anyone here know if STAR has facility to reset this part?
So i reckon this sensor needs adjusting. However, can't find anything on WIS that explains how this position sensor can be calibtated or reset.
Anyone here know if STAR has facility to reset this part?
Yep, driver's side hinge is correct. Was hoping STAR would be able to calibrate or reset it but not finding any referrence to it anywhere. :-(
Had a quick look over on Benzworld today, and noticed your avatar there in a post about retroffiting autoclosure to saloons.
It seems in the States, there was a TSB regarding faulty control units that caused the tailgate to slam.
Had a quick look over on Benzworld today, and noticed your avatar there in a post about retroffiting autoclosure to saloons.
It seems in the States, there was a TSB regarding faulty control units that caused the tailgate to slam.
OK I've restarted my attempts to resolve this problem.
I tried a little test on the position sensor (it's just a variable resistor).
Putting an ohm meter accross the two ends of the resister gives 4kohm. The reading doesn't change as the tailgate is moved (as expected).
Ohm meter between end and wiper produces a range of readings as I manually move the tailgate (as you'd expect), but it goes up to about 5kohms when the tailgate is nearly closed.
I would have thought that it shouldn't exceed 4kohms as that is the max resisence (end to end). Therefore my feeling is that this sensor (variable resistor) is faulty.
But only way to know for sure is to buy a replacement sensor (100 pounds).
Is there anyone out there that would do a similar test on theirs for me?
I tried a little test on the position sensor (it's just a variable resistor).
Putting an ohm meter accross the two ends of the resister gives 4kohm. The reading doesn't change as the tailgate is moved (as expected).
Ohm meter between end and wiper produces a range of readings as I manually move the tailgate (as you'd expect), but it goes up to about 5kohms when the tailgate is nearly closed.
I would have thought that it shouldn't exceed 4kohms as that is the max resisence (end to end). Therefore my feeling is that this sensor (variable resistor) is faulty.
But only way to know for sure is to buy a replacement sensor (100 pounds).
Is there anyone out there that would do a similar test on theirs for me?
OK I'm gonna try changing the gas struts first.
Anyone done this on a 211? (I know there are a few guides on here for older E Classes)
Would appreciate any advice or hints or tips on doing this.
What to watch out for, how to remove trim properly etc.
Thanks,
shr.
Anyone done this on a 211? (I know there are a few guides on here for older E Classes)
Would appreciate any advice or hints or tips on doing this.
What to watch out for, how to remove trim properly etc.
Thanks,
shr.
OK well that was a waste of 100 pounds!!!
Did gas struts today and situation is exactly the same.
So got to be the angle sensor or the control module itself.
What I need is if anyone out there with power close tailgate function on their S211 would to do a quick test of the resistance values of the angle sensor for me?!?!?
Easy to do and no panel removal required.
Pretty please, with a pint of Guinness on top!! (Well that's what I'm about to dive into, anyway.
Did gas struts today and situation is exactly the same.
So got to be the angle sensor or the control module itself.
What I need is if anyone out there with power close tailgate function on their S211 would to do a quick test of the resistance values of the angle sensor for me?!?!?
Easy to do and no panel removal required.
Pretty please, with a pint of Guinness on top!! (Well that's what I'm about to dive into, anyway.
corned
MB Enthusiast
OK - I'll stick my head over the parapet again... 
I have the requisite S211 and some test equipment (being sort of in the electrical game), but you would need to tell me what/where to go probing around.
I have the requisite S211 and some test equipment (being sort of in the electrical game), but you would need to tell me what/where to go probing around.
Thanks mate (was hoping you'd come forward, but didn't like to ask directly).
OK do you know where the rear door closing control module is?
It's directly below the hydraulic pump that drives the door open and close.
(Next to the COMAND DVD drive)
To access it, you'll need to pull down the left hand side cover (in the boot) and carefully remove the fabric type insulation stuff (That's the only bit of panel removal you'll need to do, promise.)
Can you PM me your email address and I'll send you some images of what/where I mean.
Unless of course you already know where this contol module is, in which case we can get straight to the testing.
OK do you know where the rear door closing control module is?
It's directly below the hydraulic pump that drives the door open and close.
(Next to the COMAND DVD drive)
To access it, you'll need to pull down the left hand side cover (in the boot) and carefully remove the fabric type insulation stuff (That's the only bit of panel removal you'll need to do, promise.)
Can you PM me your email address and I'll send you some images of what/where I mean.
Unless of course you already know where this contol module is, in which case we can get straight to the testing.
corned
MB Enthusiast
Check your PMs in a moment!!
Update on this:
Corned has very kindly carried out the same tests I did on mine. The outcome is that his test results are very similar to mine, suggesting my position sensor isn't at fault.
Additionally, Corned and I filmed a short video of our tailgates opening and closing. From comparing these, it is clear that my tailgate comes down much quicker (throughout the range) than Corned's, so I'm wondering if there's a way to slow down the process?
I believe the speed with which the hydraulic fluid is pumped is controlled via a control valve below the pump. But I don't know of any way to adjust this.
Does anyone know if this valve can be adjusted?
Or will the only solution be to replace the pump itself? (That's a 500 pound part, so wont be happening if that's the culprit.)
Thanks anyone that can shed some light.
Corned has very kindly carried out the same tests I did on mine. The outcome is that his test results are very similar to mine, suggesting my position sensor isn't at fault.
Additionally, Corned and I filmed a short video of our tailgates opening and closing. From comparing these, it is clear that my tailgate comes down much quicker (throughout the range) than Corned's, so I'm wondering if there's a way to slow down the process?
I believe the speed with which the hydraulic fluid is pumped is controlled via a control valve below the pump. But I don't know of any way to adjust this.
Does anyone know if this valve can be adjusted?
Or will the only solution be to replace the pump itself? (That's a 500 pound part, so wont be happening if that's the culprit.)
Thanks anyone that can shed some light.
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