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Thinking of buying this...any feedback, pointers please

Any sign of a misfire, walk away. On mine, I'm satisfied that the problem was caused by intermittent failure of the intercooler coolant circulation pump (no fault code). If I'd known that at the time, it would have cost me a couple of hundred quid to have the pump replaced; as it was - bore and liner one pot, all new rods and pistons, though I could have got away with just three rods and pistons - the bill was £11k...

ISTR labour was about a third of that, and that was about four or five years ago. When I acquired my current 550 bhp M157 CLS 63, the first thing I did was have that pesky pump replaced, just in case...
So was the miss-fire then originally due to the ICC pump and would this have prevented the 11k bill had it been changed? So it would be a good idea to get this changed on any potential pre facelift W212? Is this a DIY on the drive job? Thanks
 
If you're buying at this end of the market (like I'm looking at, at the moment, because I don't earn enough to buy a £40k+ car), then I'm considering the preventative and maintenance stuff I can do to save money, otherwise the AMG tax on an older car will be big compared with newer cars that likely have less stuff going wrong.

I'm reasonably handy on cars.
Take the rear brake pad example above at circa £400. Rear Brembo and TRW pads (possibly OE) on Autodoc are around £50 (the most expensive W213 E63 pads listed) a set (2x2 pads) and I am experienced enough to do those myself. Some brake appropriate greases, new boot, bolts and retaining spring kits, proper mega cleaning whilst doing the job, take the opportunity to run some fresh brake fluid through. For under £100 I'm getting the best outcome, but it's time heavy.

My view with cars is you pay one of three ways, and I'm budgetting this especially for AMGs.
- pay high new car depreciation; or,
- pay high repair costs for older cars; or,
- pay high time cost with self repairs service

I'm happy with the latter, and I really enjoy taking my time with the jobs and being in my 'zen' space. And thankfully with my approach, it's the only way I could afford a '63.
I'm very similar - though I can stretch the budget I'd rather not if I can find a well maintained E63 like this one could be. I can do brakes quite confidently - certainly the fronts, the rears I've only done once - the first attempt the discs were stuck and I didn't have the confidence to whack them as hard as the Indy eventually did!
I'll find out more about this E63 I've seen and see if MB @glasgow can shed any light on any work done outside of servicing.
Thanks
 
On the note of extended warranties - as an example - warrantywise cover is 15/150 - up to 15yrs and 150k and covers the following:

1738223181089.png

Would this be adequate for the potential issues? You can choose the level of cover for single payout up to the value of the car, labour rates etc. As an example for a single repair limit of £4k with a labour charge of £150, voluntary £150 excess comes out at £122 monthly - I can prob negotiate this down as being an existing customer with my daughters car. I had a policy on my 212 for 3 years and over that time they paid for sunroof motor and oil cooler seals.
 
If you're buying at this end of the market (like I'm looking at, at the moment, because I don't earn enough to buy a £40k+ car), then I'm considering the preventative and maintenance stuff I can do to save money, otherwise the AMG tax on an older car will be big compared with newer cars that likely have less stuff going wrong.

I'm reasonably handy on cars.
Take the rear brake pad example above at circa £400. Rear Brembo and TRW pads (possibly OE) on Autodoc are around £50 (the most expensive W213 E63 pads listed) a set (2x2 pads) and I am experienced enough to do those myself. Some brake appropriate greases, new boot, bolts and retaining spring kits, proper mega cleaning whilst doing the job, take the opportunity to run some fresh brake fluid through. For under £100 I'm getting the best outcome, but it's time heavy.

My view with cars is you pay one of three ways, and I'm budgetting this especially for AMGs.
- pay high new car depreciation; or,
- pay high repair costs for older cars; or,
- pay high time cost with self repairs service

I'm happy with the latter, and I really enjoy taking my time with the jobs and being in my 'zen' space. And thankfully with my approach, it's the only way I could afford a '63.
I should add that whilst i'd love to be able to do some of the more basic jobs (like brake pad replacement for instance), I just don't have the space, tools, confidence or the time to do any of them. I'm happy to pay an indy for those things, although with these cars its the parts that are expensive (particularly in respect of brakes). I know for instance that this year at some stage, the car will need front discs and pads and the indy quoted me only about £200 less than MB Nottingham (Group 1 Automotive) for the work - so its swings and roundabouts really!
 
On the note of extended warranties - as an example - warrantywise cover is 15/150 - up to 15yrs and 150k and covers the following:

View attachment 167248

Would this be adequate for the potential issues? You can choose the level of cover for single payout up to the value of the car, labour rates etc. As an example for a single repair limit of £4k with a labour charge of £150, voluntary £150 excess comes out at £122 monthly - I can prob negotiate this down as being an existing customer with my daughters car. I had a policy on my 212 for 3 years and over that time they paid for sunroof motor and oil cooler seals.
If I were you and speaking from personal experience - I would put money away every month into a 'slush fund' and keep that for any potential repairs, which is what I do. I have no faith in warranty companies actually paying out to be honest and would rather have the comfort of the money sitting there ready to go for 'most' eventualities. Sure, I won't be putting enough in to cover a seriously BIG repair (like a gearbox failure) but I'd like to think I buy smart and don't abuse my cars, so the chances of that happening are fairly minimal (hopefully).
 
So was the miss-fire then originally due to the ICC pump and would this have prevented the 11k bill had it been changed? So it would be a good idea to get this changed on any potential pre facelift W212? Is this a DIY on the drive job? Thanks
Long story short, I'm pretty sure that was the problem. I did a fair bit of reading, and concluded that that was it. In the absence of any fault code, or any funny noises, and because it would d go into a sort of limp mode, then run perfectly after being switched off and on again, I revved it out on full bore more than once to try to generate one.

The worst-bent conrod was immediately over the turbo on that side, i.e in the hottest-running pot. I found some info on the internet that the anti-knock software could fail to kick in soon enough at full bore if detonation occurred, and if it did it would start in the hottest-running pot. I also found a comparison between M113K and M157 conrods, and there was noticeably less material, and therefore less strength, in the M157 items. I also, just once, got a fault code that pointed to a failing intercooler coolant pump.

Whether you could change the pump on the drive I don't know, but you probably could; it wasn't a very long job, ISTR.
 
So this is the one I'm seriously considering...
Getting some pics of underneath and service history etc soon
 
I'm very similar - though I can stretch the budget I'd rather not if I can find a well maintained E63 like this one could be. I can do brakes quite confidently - certainly the fronts, the rears I've only done once - the first attempt the discs were stuck and I didn't have the confidence to whack them as hard as the Indy eventually did!
I'll find out more about this E63 I've seen and see if MB @glasgow can shed any light on any work done outside of servicing.
Thanks
W212 front and rear brakes are easy enough to DIY. The front discs are quite expensive, but the pads and rear discs can be bought for not a lot more than the non AMG model.
 
Have you considered this:

 
W212 front and rear brakes are easy enough to DIY. The front discs are quite expensive, but the pads and rear discs can be bought for not a lot more than the non AMG model.
Yikes! Just had a look on Autodoc. Only Brembo (I'm guessing OE supplier), ABS and SHW brand discs available. Fronts all about the same price, around £300-350 each! It's the 390mm that are £300, and the 360mm varient are £350.

Whereas it's £50 for 322mm Brembos and £65 for 344mm on the front of the oil burner E class.

Massive AMG tax!
 
Have you considered this:

Yes I looked at that, I'm not after black and prefer a light coloured interior, plus I'm not keen on red calipers
 
Yikes! Just had a look on Autodoc. Only Brembo (I'm guessing OE supplier), ABS and SHW brand discs available. Fronts all about the same price, around £300-350 each! It's the 390mm that are £300, and the 360mm varient are £350.

Whereas it's £50 for 322mm Brembos and £65 for 344mm on the front of the oil burner E class.

Massive AMG tax!
Rear discs aren't too bad.

Brake pads from Rock Auto are under £50 and they are brilliant.
If you search hard enough you don't need to pay a fortune.
 
This is the chain:

1738275647161.png

According to the service history - it's had 10 services - last being in Nov 22 with next due Nov 2023 @89k which has not been done since the car has been with the dealer and currently on 84k.
The ATF looks like it's been done just once @31k in 2016 and no indication that spark plugs have been done.
Should the ATF have been changed again in 2020@63K? I would have thought the plugs should have been changed at least once?

On all service records the "additional operations performed" box has been ticked but nothing extra has been added.
 
^ That is the new chain.
Servicing isn't complete.
ATF should have been done again at 62k miles.
Plugs should have been changed at least twice on a 2013 car. I can't recall for sure but thought every 4 year intervals?

It needs a B service with ATF + plugs at a minimum at a main dealer before purchase.
Any mention of brake fluid changes (every 2 years recommended)
 
^ That is the new chain.
Servicing isn't complete.
ATF should have been done again at 62k miles.
Plugs should have been changed at least twice on a 2013 car. I can't recall for sure but thought every 4 year intervals?

It needs a B service with ATF + plugs at a minimum at a main dealer before purchase.
Any mention of brake fluid changes (every 2 years recommended)
Brake fluid was last done in 2018@service 6 48k, was on schedule prior to that. Dust filter was also last replaced at this service.
The air filter was last replaced @service 4 31k so this looks overdue too.

So if i have this correct the following is needed during the B service - ATF, Plugs, Brake fluid, Dust filter, Air filter.
The seller said he will do whatever is overdue using MB parts. However, I think if he does this he may not be so willing to come down in price. I am looking around £15k.

I'll get a quote at my indy and see if I can get this reduced from the cost - i feel the dealer may not want to use MB as this will probably cost him nearer to £2?
I assume nothing untoward will happen if I do leave this items to do after purchase - it's a long drive back home -400miles.

Have I missed anything?
Thanks for your help
 
Incidentally, a lot of these posts come over as a negative for buying an E63. Don't be put off. Get a pre purchase inspection if possible and you'll have a blast if you get a good one. They are out there.
This ⬆️
 
I'm thinking this is a good one as the condition looks as near mint as possible - certainly for it's age! Also the last owner was an elderly gentleman golfer from Glasgow. My only concern is that he looks to have skimped on servicing only having oil changes since 2017.
However I have noted that MB Mobilo was still in effect after each service - I thought this was only possible if ALL scheduled service items were done?
Could it be possible that these have been missed on the DSB?
 
As suggested, don’t be put off by the comments in this thread. They’re describing what you need to be prepared for, not necessarily what you will find in practice. The difference in repair costs between a peach and a lemon is huge. Buy the right car and you’ll be surprised how little it costs to run, buy the wrong car and it could be ruinous.

I have run a couple of AMGs at the same annual mileage as you intend, and have done 95,000 miles in a car with the same engine. I use a main dealer for all servicing and most repairs but if you close to a trusted independent specialist then you could reduce the cost. Either way the secret is meticulous maintenance, every item, on time.

On average, scheduled serving probably works out around £600 per 12,000 miles. That can be as little as £300 and up to £1,000 but those outliers are unusual, and the average probably comes out at around £600. Interim oil changes won’t really be necessary and won’t improve lobgevity, but might help your piece of mind!

At this mileage, repairs are more likely due to be down to wear & tear if the car, rather than the engine, but that will be true of any car at this mileage and the rate you will pile on the miles. Engine mounts, transmission mounts and suspension components will be tgetting tired. Replace them when they need to be, but expect that to be in the next 20-30,000 miles.

I did the same with a car fitted with the M156 6.2 litre engine, and covered 110,000 miles before it retired from active service, and I’ve now done 136,000 miles in that. That has required the wear and tear items I mentioned. Preventative maintenance is great for peace of mind but if budget conscious then you will incur more cost.

AMG brakes aren’t cheap however Brembo brakes (as long as they are genuine) are superb and less expensive. At your mileage then your brakes should last a very long time, so luck of the draw in terms of how worn they are when you buy the car. The model is known for subframe issues. Main dealers will inspect the subframe for free, so do this pre-purchase for your own piece of mind.

Take your time and find the right car, with all service items completed on time every time, and wear & tear items addressed as and when they’re required. That will stand you in good stead. In terms of genuinely fast and practical cars, AMGs are the only cars I would use for the mileage you’re planning. Cayenne and Panamera are great but cost much more in maintenance.

Take your time to find the right car, it will be worth the wait.
 
Thanks - I spoke with the last MB dealer who serviced the car and they costed the B service with all the missed items at £1450 - which I thought was very reasonable considering down here it would be much more. I have asked the seller to look into this. Also the other benefit will be MB will do their own checks inc subframe.
 
Thanks - I spoke with the last MB dealer who serviced the car and they costed the B service with all the missed items at £1450 - which I thought was very reasonable considering down here it would be much more. I have asked the seller to look into this. Also the other benefit will be MB will do their own checks inc subframe.
The seller is not keen on using MB as he’d rather do all the basic stuff himself and has an MB specialist that will do the ATF and update the DSB, so I’m happy with that. The brakes look ok from the pics I’ve seen. He’s ordering some plugs to replace and had pulled 2 of them.
 

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